2001 Infiniti QX4, 151k. Burning oil like crazy!
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Which is more likely a function of viscosity over brand.
Anyway. Delvac, any 15w40 is probably a good place to start. And run the kreen flush
Anyway. Delvac, any 15w40 is probably a good place to start. And run the kreen flush
Originally Posted By: SilverFusion2010
Which is more likely a function of viscosity over brand.
Anyway. Delvac, any 15w40 is probably a good place to start. And run the kreen flush
So the formulation doesn't mean much? MaxLife probably has more seal swellers that could button up low-hanging fruit loose ends to somewhat temper oil use in his case.
Which is more likely a function of viscosity over brand.
Anyway. Delvac, any 15w40 is probably a good place to start. And run the kreen flush
So the formulation doesn't mean much? MaxLife probably has more seal swellers that could button up low-hanging fruit loose ends to somewhat temper oil use in his case.
He's got more than a leaking seal going on. Stuck oil ring or malfunctioning pcv system are where I would look first. Once that is sorted he can switch back to a thinner HM variant. For now he needs thick to slow the burn off.
Run the kreen. If it's a stuck oil ring it may fix the super high consumption.
Run the kreen. If it's a stuck oil ring it may fix the super high consumption.
Originally Posted By: KL31
Hey Kuato, 10W30 moving up in viscosity? It's still in the 30 grade region. Some 5W30 A3/B4 euro oils will also be thicker than any 10W30 "resource conserving" oils.
I'd go with a higher viscosity. It's not going to hurt anything as the oil is getting used up somehow anyways. If in hot weather, go with very cheap 15W40 or 10W40. If you need some cold start performance, 5W40. If you live in super freezing conditions, 0W40. Either way, I'd ditch the 5W30 as most are "resource conserving" ie; the thin side of 30 grade. See if it helps at all.
Compression test is a good idea but it can still have good c
ompression and have oil leaking past.
Moving up yeah 10w30 vs 5w30 is what I meant ... there have been a few oil using engines on here where consumption was reduced with that kind of change. Since you mentioned 15w40 it seems we are on the same page there.
Hey Kuato, 10W30 moving up in viscosity? It's still in the 30 grade region. Some 5W30 A3/B4 euro oils will also be thicker than any 10W30 "resource conserving" oils.
I'd go with a higher viscosity. It's not going to hurt anything as the oil is getting used up somehow anyways. If in hot weather, go with very cheap 15W40 or 10W40. If you need some cold start performance, 5W40. If you live in super freezing conditions, 0W40. Either way, I'd ditch the 5W30 as most are "resource conserving" ie; the thin side of 30 grade. See if it helps at all.
Compression test is a good idea but it can still have good c
ompression and have oil leaking past.
Moving up yeah 10w30 vs 5w30 is what I meant ... there have been a few oil using engines on here where consumption was reduced with that kind of change. Since you mentioned 15w40 it seems we are on the same page there.
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I'm still at a loss. Should I ride this out for another 2,000 miles before switching to 5w30 Valvoline MaxLife or Super Tech Conventional? I have yet to run any fuel cleaner in the truck and will do so this week.
Also, really considering using a flush product (Kreen? Auto-RX) since over 25,000 of Mobil 1 synthetic hasn't cleaned up anything (at least not to help oil consumption).
I'm bummmed, my dad has over 30,000 more miles on his 2001 Infiniti QX4 and doesn't burn a drop. He runs Castrol Synthetic Blend. I'm glad for my dad don't get me wrong!
This truck has a salvage title because of a fender bender (busted HID, bumper, fender, hood) and is worth more to me than I could get for it reselling. I plan on driving it until it's DOA, but want to keep it going for as long as I possibly can because it's in reasonable shape
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Try one of the flush cleaners. Maybe you have sticky oil rings. I don't remember if you have replaced the PCV valve. If you haven't, do so.
Top off the oil and drive the tires off it. High rpm hard acceleration then engine braking. This will help loosen stuck rings.
If the flush and Italian tune up don't get it I think it is time to move to thicker and cheaper. I would go to maxlife red bottle 10w40
Top off the oil and drive the tires off it. High rpm hard acceleration then engine braking. This will help loosen stuck rings.
If the flush and Italian tune up don't get it I think it is time to move to thicker and cheaper. I would go to maxlife red bottle 10w40
Quick question. I'm going to be changing my oil this weekend and will be officially switching off of the Mobil 1. Due to the info I've received,
I'm going to decide between Valvoline MaxLife and SuperTech.
Due to extremes between Summer and Winter in Denver, CO. I'm not sure if I should run 10w40 all year round. Should I only run 10w40 in Summer? What about Winter?
I'll also be picking up the B12 and an additive with PEA and put them in the tank one after the other. I'll try to do a bit more spirited driving after the oil change to hopefully free-up any stuck rings.
Anything else? Thanks again! As mentioned, I plan on keeping this truck until the wheels fall off.
I'm going to decide between Valvoline MaxLife and SuperTech.
Due to extremes between Summer and Winter in Denver, CO. I'm not sure if I should run 10w40 all year round. Should I only run 10w40 in Summer? What about Winter?
I'll also be picking up the B12 and an additive with PEA and put them in the tank one after the other. I'll try to do a bit more spirited driving after the oil change to hopefully free-up any stuck rings.
Anything else? Thanks again! As mentioned, I plan on keeping this truck until the wheels fall off.
Originally Posted By: SilverFusion2010
The M1 HM 10w30 is an HTHS 3.5 which is a very thick 30.
Running some kreen or some BG109 in the oil to free up any potential stuck oil rings is something I would try. If that doesn't work I'd start running a 10w40 maxlife in the red bottle.
This is where I'd go. KREEN is powerful stuff, but very effective. I've used BG109 for decades, and it does good work too, just a bit slower. BG are to conservative in the on-can directions. Pour a whole can it and drive it for a hundred miles or so, then change the oil and see what you get for consumption during the next change cycle.
Maxlife is excellent oil. There is a full syn version, but I think the best is the Syn-Blend in the red bottle. Sort of like VR-1 "lite". I know a few guys with seriously built engines that run Maxlife as a daily driver oil - no problems at all
And a qt every 1,000~1,500 is not burning oil like crazy. That was/is normal for old Volvo 4 bangers from the day the rolled off the line. And those engines ran to the 200,000 to 300,000 mile range easy.
My pick-up burning a qt every 400 miles is starting to get annoying ... I have parts on order
The M1 HM 10w30 is an HTHS 3.5 which is a very thick 30.
Running some kreen or some BG109 in the oil to free up any potential stuck oil rings is something I would try. If that doesn't work I'd start running a 10w40 maxlife in the red bottle.
This is where I'd go. KREEN is powerful stuff, but very effective. I've used BG109 for decades, and it does good work too, just a bit slower. BG are to conservative in the on-can directions. Pour a whole can it and drive it for a hundred miles or so, then change the oil and see what you get for consumption during the next change cycle.
Maxlife is excellent oil. There is a full syn version, but I think the best is the Syn-Blend in the red bottle. Sort of like VR-1 "lite". I know a few guys with seriously built engines that run Maxlife as a daily driver oil - no problems at all
And a qt every 1,000~1,500 is not burning oil like crazy. That was/is normal for old Volvo 4 bangers from the day the rolled off the line. And those engines ran to the 200,000 to 300,000 mile range easy.
My pick-up burning a qt every 400 miles is starting to get annoying ... I have parts on order
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Just an update. I have been running Valvoline MaxLife Blended High Mileage 5w30 (red bottle) for the last 2.5 years and no change. I've just been dealing with it. Truck has 176k on it now and burns 1qt every 500-700 miles (must be dependant on driving). Other than this, the truck has been reliable. I am just finally switching off of the Fram oil filters to try to fix the annoying cold-start rattle and going with Nissan OEM filters. Any other tips? I'm a little scared to rock the boat in an attempt to fix (would really suck to start burning at a faster rate), but thinking I should just keep this going since I have since it's still running for the 51k miles I have owned it.
As mentioned. This truck has been burning oil since the day I bought it.
As mentioned. This truck has been burning oil since the day I bought it.
2001? Sell it.
Naw, just laugh a little bit. I think 25% of posters still call Mobil 1 "Mobile".
BTW Mobile is a city of 200K in southern Alabama.
the most unrealistic advice ever, especially with Nissans
In Nissan engine you NEVER get a good level unless engine has been sitting for HOURS. Oil will be all over the dipstick
If you have the 3.5L engine then it will burn oil no matter what. Just the nature of the beast. BUT!!! Many VQ35 owners reported reduced oil consumption and (in some cases, not all) slightly quieter engine by simply switching to 0W40/5W40 engine oils, with Mobil1 0w40 and Rotella t6 5w40 being the crowd favorites. The quiet part is usually mostly noticed at idle, or upon heavy acceleration, or towing. "Less of a sewing machine noise" as some of those posters on Nissan forums say. May be worth a shot, if it doesn't work withing a couple oil changes - you can always switch to $12/5qt Supertech 5w30 or 10w30 from Wal-Mart, or maybe even 10w40, as these engines seem to benefit the most from 40wt oils.
I've owned two 3.5 VQ35DEs (a 2003 and a 2004 with just shy of 200k miles). Neither has ever been an oil burner. I think I've only ever topped off with about a 1/4 quart of oil once. Maybe twice in the last 11 years of owning the 2004 VQ, and that was only after a hard run across the country. They do not all burn oil.
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