17,185 mi Fram Endurance FE7317 cut open

I wick the media, then inspect it with a 10X loop under strong light. I never see any metal particles.
Send me your media and I'll find metal :)

I don't wick my filters or use a magnifying glass. In bright sunlight the metal is obvious. If you inspect the media indoors, it probably looks free of metal.

I'm not talking about large metal flakes, I'm talking about tiny, but highly reflective bits of metal.

Look back at every filter element I've posted here. All had visible metal when using bright sunlight.
 
Send me your media and I'll find metal :)

I don't wick my filters or use a magnifying glass. In bright sunlight the metal is obvious. If you inspect the media indoors, it probably looks free of metal.

I'm not talking about large metal flakes, I'm talking about tiny, but highly reflective bits of metal. Look back at every filter element I've posted here. All had visible metal when using bright sunlight.
With a strong LED flaslight and a 10X magnifying loop on wicked media, if there were metal particles I'd easily see them, even very small particles. I've seen them on the first oil change while my engines are breaking in, but once fully broken in I never see metal, only carbon type debris.
 
With a strong LED flaslight and a 10X magnifying loop on wicked media, if there were metal particles I'd easily see them, even very small particles. I've seen them on the first oil change while my engines are breaking in, but once fully broken in I never see metal, only carbon type debris.
You have an amazing engine that produces no metal. I wish I could get my hands on one of those. :)
 
So you agree, once the oil has failed, then you get metal. 4000 kms on synthetic oil you will never find metal. The oil is still protecting so there will never be any metal in the filter. 17000 miles on the other hand……
They added new oil over this run (2qts) & the filter is rated for 25,000 miles but they conservatively went 18,000.
 
There isn't much evidence here that the oil "Failed". Yes, There is carbon debris & I'm sure some metal that tracked with the mileage but this doesn't mean that this 17k run increased metal's on their filter.
If you are going to extend oil change intervals, this is why it's important to back up the extended drains with data. Take a baseline sample at 50 miles, then sample at 10,000 miles to see how the oil is doing. When you have the 10,000 miles data, then make an informed decision on the safe length of the OCI.
 
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Paper towel wick exactly as ZeeOSix posted
Funny colloquialism. I have lived around the Boston area for decades and "wicked" is used as an adjective meaning "very".
Here you applied wicked as a verb.
Never seen the paper towel rubber-banded to the filter as a cleaning and absorbing process.

I would wash the element with acetone or stoddard over a filter paper lined funnel and leave it in the chem hood to allow the solvent to evap. Sadly, I don't have access to the lab anymore as I have retired.

Plus the Chem E didn't like me taking "nips" from the anhydrous Ethanol reagent jug with the plating engineer from Belarus. Ностровия !
 
Funny colloquialism. I have lived around the Boston area for decades and "wicked" is used as an adjective meaning "very".
Here you applied wicked as a verb.
Never seen the paper towel rubber-banded to the filter as a cleaning and absorbing process.

I would wash the element with acetone or stoddard over a filter paper lined funnel and leave it in the chem hood to allow the solvent to evap. Sadly, I don't have access to the lab anymore as I have retired.

Plus the Chem E didn't like me taking "nips" from the anhydrous Ethanol reagent jug with the plating engineer from Belarus. Ностровия !
Show us a wicked wick from one of your filters 😁 i learned it here and the results speak for themselves.
 
If you are going to extend oil change intervals, this is why it's important to back up the extended drains with data. Take a baseline sample at 50 miles, then sample at 10,000 miles to see how the oil is doing. When you have the 10,000 miles data, then make an informed decision on the safe length of the OCI.
Exactly
 
You have an amazing engine that produces no metal. I wish I could get my hands on one of those. :)
I've never seen what you're describing on your engine ... which is visible sparkles by unaided eye of metal in the oil filter well after the engine is broken in. Oil filter media shouldn't be showing obvious metallic sparkles after full breaki-in unless there's a problem going on.

The only metal you should "see" is the ppm level of metals in a UOA.
 
They added new oil over this run (2qts) & the filter is rated for 25,000 miles but they conservatively went 18,000.
What the engine rated for? What’s the manufacturer going to say when you show them metal and complain of weird engine sounds? They will laugh at that oci and tell you to pound sand.

I’ve never seen metal. Never. Seeing carbon is so rare. Outside of aircraft oil filters, never seen anything other than used oil in an oil filter.
 
What the engine rated for? What’s the manufacturer going to say when you show them metal and complain of weird engine sounds? They will laugh at that oci and tell you to pound sand.

I’ve never seen metal. Never. Seeing carbon is so rare. Outside of aircraft oil filters, never seen anything other than used oil in an oil filter.
What I see most of in that filter is Carbon not metal. What the OEM says & what the oil companies say may be different. Saying the OEM will laugh at you is something they have down pat. They'll not cover warranties for many "Reasons". Is this car still under warranty? Don't know..

Everyone has their idea of what they want to do & or risk. Is the OP risking a warranty don't know you'll need to ask them. There are metals in your oil filter you just don't see it. But that doesn't mean going longer will produce a higher RATE of metal.

I would recommend anyone running outside of OEM intervals or OLM to get their oil tested.
 
There are metals in your oil filter you just don't see it.
The metal debris you can't see with a naked eye is normal, but if you're seeing a lot if visible metal with a naked eye after an engine is fully broken in, then that may be something to investigate. If you can't see any metal debris with a strong light and 10x magnification, then there's really nothing to worry about.
 
What the engine rated for? What’s the manufacturer going to say when you show them metal and complain of weird engine sounds? They will laugh at that oci and tell you to pound sand.

I’ve never seen metal. Never. Seeing carbon is so rare. Outside of aircraft oil filters, never seen anything other than used oil in an oil filter.
Oil interval is specified at 6,000 mile changes by Subaru. They will laugh at me because my warranty is long gone. They would also laugh at me if I was still under warranty because timing chain tensioner related noise is often considered normal for this engine on startup. Its rattled since 6 miles on the odometer. Recently worse. I intend to remove front cover and inspect and replace tensioner, guides and chains if needed. I take care of my vehicles their entire useful life. Whatever happens with this engine you'll see it here. Piston ring cleanliness is important to me and this oils apparent ability to clean and lower consumption from rings is helpful to the useful life of this vehicle. I have only seen carbon deposits in filters since switching to HPL over 30,000 miles ago. The very first filter I replaced at 5,000 miles was the dirtiest filter off this engine. This recent filter looked cleaner than the first HPL oil change with 3 filters at 5,000 mile filter intervals did. The first 2 filters of that change had noticeably more "goup" than this one did for the entire 17k. In hindsight it would've been entertaining to see the first HPL 5k filter wicked like this one. I hope this post is helpful. I also have a 424,000 mile Subaru I rebuilt the engine on at 380k. The rings had plenty of carbon deposits from 3k synthetic changes that seem to be cleaned away by this HPL oil with longer intervals. Whenever this engine needs a rebuild I'll post about it and take pictures along the way
 
The metal debris you can't see with a naked eye is normal, but if you're seeing a lot if visible metal with a naked eye after an engine is fully broken in, then that may be something to investigate. If you can't see any metal debris with a strong light and 10x magnification, then there's really nothing to worry about.
I don't think OP is seeing a lot of visible metal on this filter but it's there even if you can't see it. I just changed oil in my 2.5kw Onan Generator 3 days ago & when I put the panned oil in the sunlight I could see little tiny reflecting flecks similar to glitter with 64 hour oil run. That gen has 400 hours on it & is 30 years old. However, I'll point out that it doesn't use an oil filter.
 
I don't think OP is seeing a lot of visible metal on this filter but it's there even if you can't see it. I just changed oil in my 2.5kw Onan Generator 3 days ago & when I put the panned oil in the sunlight I could see little tiny reflecting flecks similar to glitter with 64 hour oil run. That gen has 400 hours on it & is 30 years old. However, I'll point out that it doesn't use an oil filter.
The "glitter of metal" in the oil is super small in size (less than 10u I bet), and most of that metal debris will most likely not be captured permanently in a standard oil filter. The particles are so small that they stay suspended in the oil for a very long time. So if any metal particles of that size do get captured, I don't think you're going to be able to see them with the naked eye, and most likely not even with a 10x magnification.

I've seen lots of "oil glitter" on the first break-in OCI on most of my engines, but after they are fully broken in that "oil glitter" is very small or none. Also, that "glittery" stuff in the oil seems to mainly be aluminum and that's why it's more visible - I could never get any of it to stick to a magnet. Lots of super small ferrous metal goes through standard oil filters too, and you can see that is you every run a magnetic drain plug.
 
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The "glitter of metal" in the oil is super small in size (less than 10u I bet), and most of that metal debris will most likely not be captured permanently in a standard oil filter. The particles are so small that they stay suspended in the oil for a very long time. So if any metal particles of that size do get captured, I don't think you're going to be able to see them with the naked eye, and most likely not even with a 10x magnification.

I've seen lots of "oil glitter" on the first break-in OCI on most of my engines, but after they are fully broken in that "oil glitter" is very small or none. Also, that "glittery" stuff in the oil seems to mainly be aluminum and that's why it's more visible - I could never get any of it to stick to a magnet. Lots of super small ferrous metal goes through standard oil filters too, and you can see that is you every run a magnetic drain plug.
Yeah it was very fine glitter and not a ton. I would expect at least the copper & aluminium not to stick to a magnet. I've thought about getting a drain magnet for it.

I'm going to be opening a Purolator One oil filter in a year or two maybe three on a 17 HP Kawasaki (1 Cyl) mower engine I rebuilt. Hopefully, they'll be something interesting in there. First oil run had 100 ppm iron/lead combined & Copper was at 100. I've kept the filter on to run another 10-20 hours but did change the oil after 10 hours. I did see a little bit more oil glitter in that pan, than the generator, but it has a filter though so it wasn't a lot either.
 
Wow this thread blew up in the last couple of days.

I have this filter installed on my wife's Mitsubishi and plan to go the full 25K, with 5K OCI, barring any unusual noises or other signs of distress. We run Chevron/Havoline ProDS 5w20 exclusively on this vehicle except that one time I had to get to changed at the dealership becaue I broke my leg after a hard fall on a bicycle ride. I'm sure 5K OCI is pretty conservative on this port injected, naturally aspirated 2.4 liter 4 cylinder, but it's served us well and I have more ProDS than I have vehicles to put it in.

I'm on the 2nd OCI now, about 8K in.

As to why to run it so long, well, it makes oil changes a bit easier and a few minutes less time consuming not having to change the filter. Also cleaner and more straight forward.

[edit] I suppose I could start doing UOA on the next 3 changes, that would give me some other indication that I should stop early if wear trends up. I've never done a UOA on this vehicle and it has 73K.
 
The innards of Fram Endurance looks very much like the original Fram Ultra's.
Is it basically the same?
The only real difference is the media-the OG had the 2-layer pink synthetic media, the Endurance has the 2-layer white syn media (like RP & Amsoil, both made by Champ Labs). I haven't used an Endurance yet, but hopefully they have thicker cans & better paint than the OG...
 
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