0W-40 pros & cons...

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Originally Posted By: claluja
Thanks for posting article. So seems like Mg and Mo aren't real good together, and that alot of the new oils coming out are increasing Mg (and reducing Mo) in order to deal with LSPI in direct injection engines.

This begs the question for a guy like me with no direct inject engines, wouldn't I be better off with less Mg and more Mo.


I also thank wemay for posting this!
The end of the summary states that boron compounds were used to prevent the "scraping"...I can't remember if it was a d1G2 oil, but I know we saw a VOA recently with a hefty slug of boron.
Extra interesting because MoDTC is supposed to also help keep LSPI from occurring, just like ZDDP.
 
Originally Posted By: simple_gifts
Never seen CAFE 0/20 in my owners manual.

t
What do you mean?
 
Originally Posted By: Virtus_Probi
Originally Posted By: claluja
Thanks for posting article. So seems like Mg and Mo aren't real good together, and that alot of the new oils coming out are increasing Mg (and reducing Mo) in order to deal with LSPI in direct injection engines.

This begs the question for a guy like me with no direct inject engines, wouldn't I be better off with less Mg and more Mo.


I also thank wemay for posting this!
The end of the summary states that boron compounds were used to prevent the "scraping"...I can't remember if it was a d1G2 oil, but I know we saw a VOA recently with a hefty slug of boron.
Extra interesting because MoDTC is supposed to also help keep LSPI from occurring, just like ZDDP.


Example of getting rid of moly, and jacking up Mg and boron.

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthr...cle#Post4629626
 
Virtus...

I see you're trying the PNZL Gold 5W30 d1G2. I'm not one who can feel a difference between oils but I know others can. Any feedback?
 
Originally Posted By: wemay
Virtus...
I see you're trying the PNZL Gold 5W30 d1G2. I'm not one who can feel a difference between oils but I know others can. Any feedback?


Howdy, wemay!
Well, I can say that my car was rattling a bit when it was -10 to -15F outside, but I don't think I can really blame that on the oil!
Thought I was going to get a start in below -25F one morning up in the mountains, but either the forecast was off or I had the wrong night and it didn't get anywhere near that cold.
Car feels fine when the temps are more normal and I don't see any consumption as of yet...guess it's good that it seems to behave like most of the other oils I've put in the FXT.
The only oil that raised my eyebrows a bit was M1 5W30 EP...some strange rattles after startup on that change that were not occurring well below zero. I'd guess that the oil filter was probably a little wonky instead of it having anything to the oil, but I decided there was no reason to stick with that EP when there are so many other good oils out there.

It was the PDS that you posted on BITOG that got me interested in the Gold, thanks again for sharing that.

Hope your baby is thriving and best wishes to you and your family!
 
Originally Posted By: Virtus_Probi
Originally Posted By: wemay
Virtus...
I see you're trying the PNZL Gold 5W30 d1G2. I'm not one who can feel a difference between oils but I know others can. Any feedback?


Howdy, wemay!
Well, I can say that my car was rattling a bit when it was -10 to -15F outside, but I don't think I can really blame that on the oil!
Thought I was going to get a start in below -25F one morning up in the mountains, but either the forecast was off or I had the wrong night and it didn't get anywhere near that cold.
Car feels fine when the temps are more normal and I don't see any consumption as of yet...guess it's good that it seems to behave like most of the other oils I've put in the FXT.
The only oil that raised my eyebrows a bit was M1 5W30 EP...some strange rattles after startup on that change that were not occurring well below zero. I'd guess that the oil filter was probably a little wonky instead of it having anything to the oil, but I decided there was no reason to stick with that EP when there are so many other good oils out there.

It was the PDS that you posted on BITOG that got me interested in the Gold, thanks again for sharing that.

Hope your baby is thriving and best wishes to you and your family!


...and best to you and yours as well my friend! Thank you for the salutations. Oliver (baby) is doing amazingly well... it's Mom and me that are totally sleep deprived.
smile.gif


I have jugs each of the 0w20 and 5w30 around here too. I'm hoping to try them this year unless i go crazy when API SN Plus makes its debut.
 
This Toyota 4.0L is wonderful and even more so on 0/40. quiet, luxurious and smooth...never uses any oil, zero...another observation when I drew the old 0/40 (7,500) and replaced it at 0F both were very malleable no worries here at 46 degrees N. The Euro's have something here in ignoring the poultry fuel savings for a lube that 'fits' an auto engine.
 
Get some rest my friend... Take care of yourself as well... Children are far from easy. However, the biggest action anyone ever does while here in this world. Far bigger than buying a house, car or anything else. A child is truly a living legacy left behind when their parents pass on from this world.
Something to think about... Your father is in your child has well... Reminds me of the song by Mike and the Mechanics called the "Living years". Words from that song go... I think his spirit later that same year, think I heard his echos in my baby's new born tears... Very true indeed.
 
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Originally Posted By: dblshock
If your speced for a CAFE 0/20 and concerned for drag friction vs. wear just short fill it with 0/40 like 1/8" lower than you would otherwise.
...double protection with even less friction drag.


Your post betrays a complete lack of understanding of how engine oiling systems operate as well as what oil grades actually mean.
As long as the pickup isn't sucking air, it doesn't matter at all what grade of oil you put in the sump.
Even two quarts plus down, the pickup is sucking oil, so I don't understand why you'd think sump level would matter.
Grades?
Well, any 0W-40 is a Euro oil and will have HTHSv of at least 3.5 while any API/ILSAC 0W-20 will have HTHSv of maybe 2.7. This means that the 0W-40 will necessarily yield higher fuel consumption and less willingness to rev.
Okay, but the 0W-20 is only adequate to get my engine through the warranty period.
Really?
Do you really think that companies like Honda and Toyota, and even GM now, are recommending a 0W-20 grade oil without thinking that they'd be risking their hard won, or in the case of GM hard regained reputations for building long lived vehicles?
In short, you could use the recommended grade in your Civic and it would live out its natural 200K+ life without incident.
You could also use a 0W-40 and it would do the same at a few hundred bucks more in fuel expense out of your pocket.
 
right these CAFE sheeps will be popp'n turbo's and blow'n oil in the effort to save .001%

ridiculous
 
Originally Posted By: dblshock
...these CAFE sheeps will be popp'n turbo's and blow'n oil...


Ok, you've convinced me.
 
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