Forgot to add, will use Lubro Moly Engine Clean (sludge remover) after last run on actual Moly oil and ARx. It stays in engine for 250 miles before oil change. Then will use Engine Flushes (5-10 min in the engine), by same brand every oil change.
Auto-RX in 3.0L Camry
- Thread starter zyxelenator
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Giving up on the AutoRx?
MOS2 is a moly additive. No point in wasting your money on it. Sometimes Napa goes clearance and if you pick it up cheap enough, then grab it all.
I could care less what someone claims of LubroMoly. I would not go out of my way for that oil. Its not worth the premium from what is available at your local stores. The damage is already done. Nothing in a bottle will fix it. Plenty of thick oils available, and methods of making an oil thicker, if you want to go that route.
You fill the manual transmission until it overflows from the fill plug. Make sure vehicle is on a level surface.
You should start spraying the transmission drain and fill plugs with penetrating oil ... You want to spray them 3-5 times over a week or two prior to even attempting the removal.
The plugs will come off easy if you have quality metric tools.
Since Summer is coming, if you want to go thicker with the oil, and you have none left on the garage shelf, consider ANY 0w40, 5w40, 10w40(M1hm, Syntec), 5w50(Syntec), or 15w50(M1). A pint of Lucas or Honey oil additives will move you up a grade too.
You should still pull off a valve cover for inspection.
MOS2 is a moly additive. No point in wasting your money on it. Sometimes Napa goes clearance and if you pick it up cheap enough, then grab it all.
I could care less what someone claims of LubroMoly. I would not go out of my way for that oil. Its not worth the premium from what is available at your local stores. The damage is already done. Nothing in a bottle will fix it. Plenty of thick oils available, and methods of making an oil thicker, if you want to go that route.
You fill the manual transmission until it overflows from the fill plug. Make sure vehicle is on a level surface.
You should start spraying the transmission drain and fill plugs with penetrating oil ... You want to spray them 3-5 times over a week or two prior to even attempting the removal.
The plugs will come off easy if you have quality metric tools.
Since Summer is coming, if you want to go thicker with the oil, and you have none left on the garage shelf, consider ANY 0w40, 5w40, 10w40(M1hm, Syntec), 5w50(Syntec), or 15w50(M1). A pint of Lucas or Honey oil additives will move you up a grade too.
You should still pull off a valve cover for inspection.
What will be better as penetrating oil> WD-40 or PB Blast?
About gearbox, You said same as I heard before. Just wondering should I buy 2 or 4 bottles (1 liter).
About gearbox, You said same as I heard before. Just wondering should I buy 2 or 4 bottles (1 liter).
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Originally Posted By: zyxelenator
What will be better as penetrating oil> WD-40 or PB Blast?
PB Blaster is a better penetrating oil than WD-40.
What will be better as penetrating oil> WD-40 or PB Blast?
PB Blaster is a better penetrating oil than WD-40.
fill er up with no smoke and put a for sale sign on it
If you don't fix the oil burning issues, it's kinda pointless to do an actual oil change so short into the interval at the rate you are describing in your plan for the car. Just saying...
Originally Posted By: ltslimjim
If you don't fix the oil burning issues, it's kinda pointless to do an actual oil change so short into the interval at the rate you are describing in your plan for the car. Just saying...
Will see, these oils and additive should stop or reduce usage.(Recondition or seal seals and guides, Moly , restore worn out metal. I don"t expect it to stop burning it at all, just reduce it to normal reasonable level. Why I'm planning to do all of it? Great experiment and experience for the future. If I won"t see improvement with moly, other additives and 10w-60 oil, then it will go as trade in for the new car.I don't think that that car will die due engine failure, It has a great chance do die due the old Grannie ramming into it in the winter(People in KY just don't know how to drive in the rain or snow). Which happened to me before, not even in the winter, during day light and good weather.
If you don't fix the oil burning issues, it's kinda pointless to do an actual oil change so short into the interval at the rate you are describing in your plan for the car. Just saying...
Will see, these oils and additive should stop or reduce usage.(Recondition or seal seals and guides, Moly , restore worn out metal. I don"t expect it to stop burning it at all, just reduce it to normal reasonable level. Why I'm planning to do all of it? Great experiment and experience for the future. If I won"t see improvement with moly, other additives and 10w-60 oil, then it will go as trade in for the new car.I don't think that that car will die due engine failure, It has a great chance do die due the old Grannie ramming into it in the winter(People in KY just don't know how to drive in the rain or snow). Which happened to me before, not even in the winter, during day light and good weather.
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Good updates. Smoke at stat up is not lasting long, just a puff, and flies away, don't even noticed is it just condensation or oil burning. Dove around 160 miles, 60-70% hwy and 40-30 city. Car feels like it got more power, accelerates better. (I don't like do downshift from 5th gear on hwy, unless it's really necessary, so it's noticeable ) Engine is much much more quite, much less vibration an hesitation on idle almost gone, better that it used to be on my 03 v6 altima. Less vibration on hwy , I thought it's due unbalance, of the wheels, wasn't really something to worry about, but I as wrong about wheels. Looks like German engineering cooperate with Japanese engineering pretty good 
)
Just got home from work, sprayed drain and filler plugs on tranny again with PBB, checked oil...it moved down just couple mm.
Will tel for sure in the morning, it shows level more clean after sitting overnight. Also took a flesh light a took a look under PVC valve. It looked 100 times better, just some varnish, was able to scoop out little peace of [censored] out, about 1.5 mm in diameter the way I did before (aka screw driver test).
)Just got home from work, sprayed drain and filler plugs on tranny again with PBB, checked oil...it moved down just couple mm.
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Waiting on other stuff to arrive; KN&N air filter, wix fuel filter, Lubro Moly for gears, will go to tranny and amsoil power foam. ill clean maf, inteake, change filter. than oils
Be sure not to spray your MAF sensor at all with the Power Foam. Definitely change the oil after using that stuff, though. I just did it again today switching over to do a cleanup OCI on my Civic. It smoked like CRAZY. The first 3 WOT runs generated cloud trails of smoke.
My friend's Nissan Titan has a MAF but we are able to use the Power Foam through the breather pipe that goes to the cover of the engine(look for this and dont spray directly into intake with MAF still attached). There should be pipes off of the intake pipe to the throttle body(just past where the MAF is located), we found one of the his truck so we knew we could get around the 'not recommended' for MAF sensor equipped vehicles.
That's the only way the car can still run in order to get the Power Foam into the engine and not have to worry about getting MAF damaged by spraying 'past' it.
If you do use the Power Foam, do it on a hot day out(75+ degrees) and follow the instructions on the can, except instead of 5-10 minutes let it sit in the engine for over 1 hour. Then, restart and allow engine to idle for a minute. After this I rev the RPM slighty to 2,000 or so until it's easy to hold it steady at that RPM. Last thing while still at an idle, I blip the throttle to 3,000 RPM a couple of times. Finally, take it out for WOT driving(safely and sanely) and try not to do this with cars close behind you/onto the street you peel out on.
My friend's Nissan Titan has a MAF but we are able to use the Power Foam through the breather pipe that goes to the cover of the engine(look for this and dont spray directly into intake with MAF still attached). There should be pipes off of the intake pipe to the throttle body(just past where the MAF is located), we found one of the his truck so we knew we could get around the 'not recommended' for MAF sensor equipped vehicles.
That's the only way the car can still run in order to get the Power Foam into the engine and not have to worry about getting MAF damaged by spraying 'past' it.
If you do use the Power Foam, do it on a hot day out(75+ degrees) and follow the instructions on the can, except instead of 5-10 minutes let it sit in the engine for over 1 hour. Then, restart and allow engine to idle for a minute. After this I rev the RPM slighty to 2,000 or so until it's easy to hold it steady at that RPM. Last thing while still at an idle, I blip the throttle to 3,000 RPM a couple of times. Finally, take it out for WOT driving(safely and sanely) and try not to do this with cars close behind you/onto the street you peel out on.
Just so everyone knows - that is not sludge in the picture down the fill hole. That is a baffle that Toyota puts in there and for some unknown reason, they coat it with something that is rough and sandy looking (and feeling). Why they couldn't use a shiny, smooth piece of metal is beyond me. Doubtless, there is sludge in this engine, but that is not sludge in the picture.
I just had a 2011 RX350 as a loaner vehicle while Lexus was servicing my 2006 model, and being a BITOGer I just had to take off the oil cap and have a peek. Happily, there is no baffle in this newer Toyota engine.
Originally Posted By: zyxelenator
Picture of oil filler before ARX, and stupid, dirty oil screen.
Quality is not best, taken on phone camera.
I just had a 2011 RX350 as a loaner vehicle while Lexus was servicing my 2006 model, and being a BITOGer I just had to take off the oil cap and have a peek. Happily, there is no baffle in this newer Toyota engine.
Originally Posted By: zyxelenator
Picture of oil filler before ARX, and stupid, dirty oil screen.
Quality is not best, taken on phone camera.
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And thanks, I'm aware about mafs, and have experience on cleaning air intake systems and complete removal,cleaning and put it all back together...
Things I don"t really want to mess are: getting inside of the engine or tranny, because I'm not really sure that I'll be able to complete all I need, due to lack of tools an spare car, in case I mess up. When I'll have spare car, that's should not be a problem, since my head and hands grow from the right place
Did a big peace of tune up on my Father's 06 nissan fontier 2.5 today... it's 88k miles and there should be major tune up at 90K. Decided to do it little earlier, since we both got some time. First it went to Goodyear, got rotate and balance, coolant flush and brake fluid flush ( hey claimed to use synthetic). Seafoamed 3-way after, cahnger oil to Penzoil Ulta 5-30 and Bosch filter( which looks twice bigger than STP that was there), Added can of Lubro Moly's moly. Manual tranny got changed with 75-90 Lubro Moly Full syntec hypoid oil. Which by the way has very comfortable filler tube, like elephant's trunk
rear deferential got Vavoline synch blend. Asked Dad to let me know about the changes, he test drove truck, and immediately noticed smother shifting, and less noise from the engine. Also found a good thing. truck has magnetic drain plugs in the tranny and dif. Got bunch of metal shred,and thick layer of grey-silver grease on them, would be cool if it's factory added Moly. Truck was fed sythetich oil since it was born.
Also Added a can of Moly to my friend, 1.8 liter 280 hp tuner, turbo gti. He noticed to have higher rpms af idle, as for eight now it's back to normal. Will let me know about improvements.
Also Added a can of Moly to my friend, 1.8 liter 280 hp tuner, turbo gti. He noticed to have higher rpms af idle, as for eight now it's back to normal. Will let me know about improvements.
Thin gray and slippery layer that Moly additive left in the funnel even after 4q of oil went thru.
Father said that truck is shifting better than ever. Haven't notice any change in the engine work.( I noticed mine mainly after 150 miles).
Received wix fuel filter, power foam and KN&N air filter today. Installed air filter, went to gas station to refuel with beer
), stepped on the gas a little after camry warmed up-- sounds similar to CAI, but can't tell is there a gain in power or mpg, yet. Will install new oil and fuel filter soon, powerfoam before oil change... about 2k miles till oil change.
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Thanks for the continued updates.
no smoke on start-up today.At all.. none. Was much warmer, and no wind, would notice it, if it would be there.
Just checking...other than filter changes and top up oil, what have you added to your engine?
Moly, and Oil saver, should not mess with ARX. Also used Seafoam thru vacuum line, and gas tank, some other fuel additives(cleaners).
This oil will be drained in less than 2000 miles.
Smoke on start up is back. Trying to figure out what are the factors. Car sits for the same amount of time on days I work, 12 hours ( I have 12 hour shifts) Sometimes there is a puff and sometimes not. I think it smokes more if it was parked on the hill.
This oil will be drained in less than 2000 miles.
Smoke on start up is back. Trying to figure out what are the factors. Car sits for the same amount of time on days I work, 12 hours ( I have 12 hour shifts) Sometimes there is a puff and sometimes not. I think it smokes more if it was parked on the hill.
Oil saver?
Originally Posted By: chucky2
Oil saver?
Lubro Moly "Oil saver"
Product Features
* Reduces oil consumption via the piston rings and valve guides
* Prevents blue, smoky exhaust fumes
* Prevents leaks due to leaks at elastomeric seals
* Regenerates engine seals made of plastic and rubber
* Prevents pollution of the environment due to oil dripping from the engine
Oil saver?
Lubro Moly "Oil saver"
Product Features
* Reduces oil consumption via the piston rings and valve guides
* Prevents blue, smoky exhaust fumes
* Prevents leaks due to leaks at elastomeric seals
* Regenerates engine seals made of plastic and rubber
* Prevents pollution of the environment due to oil dripping from the engine
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