Valvoline Restore & Protect

[ATex7239]

So, my brother has a 2009 nissan versa with 178kmiles that got passed down from my dad, to my sister, to my other brother, and now the youngest. They think it's been over 6 months since last oil change but they don't know when it was. They do one of those crappy quick lube and my dad says it's like 30$, so I'm thinking they use conventional?

Any way, I'll be doing the oil changes for a bit. Going to use Valvoline R&P with short intervals for a few changes.

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Dang. That is pretty gnarly looking.

 

[Fa24wrx]

Dang. That is pretty gnarly looking.

Yep. I'm curious if I should drop the oil pan or do anything else? I'm also mildy excited to see IF the R&P touches this.

 

[ATex7239]

Yep. I'm curious if I should drop the oil pan or do anything else? I'm also mildy excited to see IF the R&P touches this.

I wouldn’t mess it other than some shorter oil changes with R&P. That seems like it could turn into quicksand real fast.

 

[Fa24wrx]

I wouldn’t mess it other than some shorter oil changes with R&P. That seems like it could turn into quicksand real fast.

OK will do. Thank you

 

[Triple_Se7en]

Depends how you define better. It won't clean like the R&P oil.

Agree.
Someone here posted last week that the R&P also has GTL base oil.

 

[Fa24wrx]

Agree.
Someone here posted last week that the R&P also has GTL base oil.

I asked valvoline. It isn't GTL

 

[Patrick0525]

Yep. Unfortunately, they haven't been the best maintaining it. My dad changes his sprinter van like clockwork though do you think I should drop the oil pan?

Dropping the oil pan is the easy part. Applying silicone RTV to the engine block with a perfect line is damm difficult. U really can’t apply RTV to the sump and push it towards on to the block. A gasket would be easier and do able. U don’t want excess amounts of silicone in ur oil pan pickup screen.

 

[buster]

So, my brother has a 2009 nissan versa with 178kmiles that got passed down from my dad, to my sister, to my other brother, and now the youngest. They think it's been over 6 months since last oil change but they don't know when it was. They do one of those crappy quick lube and my dad says it's like 30$, so I'm thinking they use conventional?

Any way, I'll be doing the oil changes for a bit. Going to use Valvoline R&P with short intervals for a few changes.

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Keep us posted this should be interesting.

 

[Fa24wrx]

Keep us posted this should be interesting.

Oh I will for sure

 

[Mewbs]

Id do a double EPR flush on that thing with some supertech oil and then run it with an oil of your choice with HPL engine cleaner and swap the filter out every 2k to see how much crud is being captured on the filter.

 

[Triple_Se7en]

I been using Mobil 1 Advanced, on my next oil change I will be using Valvoline, Just not sure if I will use R&P or EP

The Advanced Fuel Economy oil is Mobil-1 most watered down CAFE entry.
A move-up to either the EP or ESP (if it fits) is often recommended here.

 

[Fa24wrx]

Id do a double EPR flush on that thing with some supertech oil and then run it with an oil of your choice with HPL engine cleaner and swap the filter out every 2k to see how much crud is being captured on the filter.

I'm going to use this as an opportunity to test what Valvoline claims. If it doesn't do much within 4 changes (going to try every 3 months/2k miles) then I'll do something like that.

 

[Triple_Se7en]

I stand corrected.
It's the Valvoline (E)xtended (P)rotection MaxLife, that contains a GTL base

 

[wsar10]

You make very salient points. The situation is the same regardless of the industry, and it's been that way since the concept of advertising originated. I remember one of Exxon's ancient ads: Put a tiger in your tank. Translation, our gasoline will make your car run like an Indy car. It was no different than Amoco, Sunoco, Gulf or Pure petrol.

In the early 1960s, there was a petrol station in our town called 'Working Man's Gas'. They bought up the overage from the fuel tankers that had big names on the side: Esso, Shell, Amoco, etc. The petrol all went into the same tank, and you'd pay over 5 cents a gallon less ( petrol averaged 25c a gallon or less at the time ).

I also used Sears Spectrum branded SAE 30 and later 10W-30 motor oil because it was less expensive than the big brands, and it worked. Amoco was supposedly the supplier, but it wasn't until Mobil-1 came out that I was told (via advertising) that the 170ci 6 cyl in my 1963 Ford Fairlane would die unless I used Mobil-1. I still used Sears oil until I sold it in 1974, yet the engine and drive train were as solid as ever. My 1974 Volkswagen Super Beetle ran on NAPA brand 20W-50 ( supposedly Valvoline ) for over 30 years with no issues ever. My nephew bought the Bug @2005 and made a sand crawler out of it, and the engine and transaxle are still going strong albeit with a lot of mods. My 1992 Explorer ran for almost 300k miles on NAPA and Supertech 10W and later 5W-30. I sold it still running and not burning oil.

Having read MolaKule's home page writeup on oil processing (and pulling my head out of the blender), I can appreciate the GTL technology and the advantages it has. When on sale, I'll use Pennzoil Platinum. Otherwise it's whatever Walmart has on sale. I doubt my Jeep has noticed or ever will notice the difference.

I always appreciate stories or discussions of this nature, be it history or be it oil! And I understand that your reply was pointed towards the marketing non-sense but it brings up another point for me. I think the one thing that many of us overlook is the uniqueness of WHY. What do I mean by that? WHY we are all here, we are all here for the same reasons but with different agendas, its part of what makes this site great.
I think we have 2 or 3 types here, some are only in it for the efficiency. Meaning what is the most cost effective way to maintain my vehicle correctly. Yet for others this is just a STARTING point and we want to play around with trying to go above and beyond the guaranteed protection and are not overly worried about the cost effectiveness as we consider the ROI in a different way.

I see a lot of threads where people post "I have used Super-Tech for 300k mi, without issue". And I always just want to remind people that some just want to go a step further. I fall somewhere in between but appreciate and respect both mindsets and even more I thoroughly love the data and the feedback from both mindsets. On the other hand I see threads where people condemn more cost effective oils, I don't feel like this is beneficial either. Again, having both data points is one of things that make this forum unique and enjoyable, or rather great! Maybe this is not so relevant to the OP, its just something I always think of when I hear stories like those above about reliability from various oils.

 

[Fa24wrx]

I stand corrected.
It's the Valvoline (E)xtended (P)rotection MaxLife, that contains a GTL base

 

[dumkid]

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Sometimes these people don't know what they're talking about.

 

[goingplacesanddoingstuff]

Sometimes these people don't know what they're talking about.

Agreed, .

 

[Fa24wrx]

Sometimes these people don't know what they're talking about.

I wondered that. Is there evidence they are GTL?

 

[dumkid]

I wondered that. Is there evidence they are GTL?

I think someone posted a product data sheet

 

[Patrick0525]

I recommend R&P for the next 100k. Definitely car abuse. I have the same engine and everything in the upper engine oil block should be sparkly clean and not coated with varnish.

Remember your engine oil is not a lifetime fluid. . . . #oilchange #sludge #toyota #sienna #oil #engine #noise #service #carmaintenance #carmaintenancetips #dealership #carshop #fixingcars #mechanic #oilfilter #oilpump #oilpan #enginerebuild #drain

Remember your engine oil is not a lifetime fluid. . . . #oilchange #sludge #toyota #sienna #oil #engine #noise #service #carmaintenance #carmaintenancetips #dealership #carshop #fixingcars...

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