Using ramps for oil change
- Thread starter dlundblad
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I've got 2 sets of ramps, one very old set from my Dad that's very tall and only usable on the trucks, and a set of Ultra Ramps that I bought for the first oil change on my long-departed Malibu. Even the Ultra Ramps were a bit tall for the Malibu as I had a bunch of yellow paint scrapes under the front bumper. No worries about collapsing. The Ultra Ramps paid for themselves after 2 oil changes, and I kept the Malibu for 11 years so I definitely got my money's worth out of them. Haven't tried them on the Sonata yet.
The Cobalt has even less clearance so I may have to look into those Race Ramps...or an oil extractor since the engine uses a cartridge that I can access from the top.
The Cobalt has even less clearance so I may have to look into those Race Ramps...or an oil extractor since the engine uses a cartridge that I can access from the top.
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+1 on the KwikLift. That has been one of my better automotive purchases over the years.
Originally Posted By: Pop_Rivit
Originally Posted By: dlundblad
Anyways I hate using the things.
Precisely why I have a Kwiklift. I can park on it when it's down (it's where I park one of my tractors) and I can use it as a lift when I need it. For most vehicles I don't even need to actually raise the lift, just the extra few inches is more than enough to change oil and work under the front of the vehicle.
Originally Posted By: Pop_Rivit
Originally Posted By: dlundblad
Anyways I hate using the things.
Precisely why I have a Kwiklift. I can park on it when it's down (it's where I park one of my tractors) and I can use it as a lift when I need it. For most vehicles I don't even need to actually raise the lift, just the extra few inches is more than enough to change oil and work under the front of the vehicle.
I still use ramps for our vehicles but only 1 pair at the front.
Since Tireman continually offers coupons via their web site for free tire rotation here, I haven't had a need to raise these RWD vehicles on more than the front 2 tires for anything I've done at home. They even offer coupons for $19.88 synthetic blend oil & filter change plus tire rotation for $19.88.
Since Tireman continually offers coupons via their web site for free tire rotation here, I haven't had a need to raise these RWD vehicles on more than the front 2 tires for anything I've done at home. They even offer coupons for $19.88 synthetic blend oil & filter change plus tire rotation for $19.88.
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I don't like ramps for oil services - they do not allow you to pull the wheels off.
With the service intervals these days, most cars are going more than 5k between services. This means that at every service, a full maintenance inspection should take place, which includes rotating the tires and inspecting the brakes. You cannot do this when the car is on ramps.
With the service intervals these days, most cars are going more than 5k between services. This means that at every service, a full maintenance inspection should take place, which includes rotating the tires and inspecting the brakes. You cannot do this when the car is on ramps.
Originally Posted By: dlundblad
I have a hard time visualizing how one would use a hydraulic jack with 2 jack stands. The lift points on my GF's Volvo for example are roughly 5x5 in size. It has 2 on each end. It doesn't really allow for anything else to be added.
The points in the owners manual, typically pinch welds, are certified for the cheezy emergency tire changing jack. In the front, under the firewall, I typically find either a "frame rail" stamped into the floorpan or a "huge bolt head" where the lower control arm meets the subframe, or where the subframe meets the unibody.
In the rear there'll often be a suspension mount for the trailing arms. If one's already lifted the front, the rear pinch weld doesn't have much weight on it, and you can lift a foot ahead of the start of the fender (generally) then put the jack stand next to the jack.
I have a hard time visualizing how one would use a hydraulic jack with 2 jack stands. The lift points on my GF's Volvo for example are roughly 5x5 in size. It has 2 on each end. It doesn't really allow for anything else to be added.
The points in the owners manual, typically pinch welds, are certified for the cheezy emergency tire changing jack. In the front, under the firewall, I typically find either a "frame rail" stamped into the floorpan or a "huge bolt head" where the lower control arm meets the subframe, or where the subframe meets the unibody.
In the rear there'll often be a suspension mount for the trailing arms. If one's already lifted the front, the rear pinch weld doesn't have much weight on it, and you can lift a foot ahead of the start of the fender (generally) then put the jack stand next to the jack.
Originally Posted By: The Critic
I don't like ramps for oil services - they do not allow you to pull the wheels off.
With the service intervals these days, most cars are going more than 5k between services. This means that at every service, a full maintenance inspection should take place, which includes rotating the tires and inspecting the brakes. You cannot do this when the car is on ramps.
The last service on my truck I put it on stands, pulled the drain plug, while draining started moving wheels around. I also tried to change the brake fluid so it bordered on a four hour oil change. With all wheels off it was easy to go from corner to corner.
I don't like ramps for oil services - they do not allow you to pull the wheels off.
With the service intervals these days, most cars are going more than 5k between services. This means that at every service, a full maintenance inspection should take place, which includes rotating the tires and inspecting the brakes. You cannot do this when the car is on ramps.
The last service on my truck I put it on stands, pulled the drain plug, while draining started moving wheels around. I also tried to change the brake fluid so it bordered on a four hour oil change. With all wheels off it was easy to go from corner to corner.
My wife's 2005 Explorer needs to be on the rhino ramps to do an oil & filter change. My 1996 Contour gets the oil changed on the ground but the passenger side tire need to be removed to get at the oil filter. My 2002 F-150 can have the oil and filter changed while being on the ground.
Whimsey
Whimsey
I use a set of race ramps when change the oil in my Pontiac G8. When I used them the first time I had trouble driving up on them because they kept slipping (my garage has a painted concrete floor) so I bought some 12" rubber squares (they look like tiles but are made of recycled rubber bits). I put one square under each end of each ramp (I use front and rear ramps to raise the car level) so I bought 8 of them, I think they were like $1.50 each from Grainger. The rubber squares have held up well - I changed oil in my Porsche 928S and I had it sitting on the ramps (on the squares) for a month while I was waiting for a new oil drain plug, and some 5W-40 oil from Torco, to come in. The rubber squares, and the ramps, are still as new.
I've been around other folks with ramps, but never cared for them. 4 quality jack stands and a good floor jack for me. My main jack is a 1974 Nippon special from Wards. I had to add a little jack oil about 20 years ago-about due again I spose. I also have a Chinese low profile for the lower cars and as a back-up. I also like to keep some chunks of 3/4" plywood around for use on other than concrete and keep one in each car as the footprint of the jacks supplied with the cars is always too small for my liking.
I have some nice large, wide blocks that I use. Also have wood wedges to climb. The car has always seemed secure on them - I open the doors and push/pull on the B pillar to try to knock it off before reaching under to drain the oil. Never had a problem!
Annoying thing is my car doesn't have a granny gear, so getting it to climb the ramp is a bit hard.
My Jeep is tall enough that I can just roll under it without having to put it up on anything
Annoying thing is my car doesn't have a granny gear, so getting it to climb the ramp is a bit hard.
My Jeep is tall enough that I can just roll under it without having to put it up on anything
Originally Posted By: Miller88
I have some nice large, wide blocks that I use. Also have wood wedges to climb. The car has always seemed secure on them - I open the doors and push/pull on the B pillar to try to knock it off before reaching under to drain the oil. Never had a problem!
Annoying thing is my car doesn't have a granny gear, so getting it to climb the ramp is a bit hard.
My Jeep is tall enough that I can just roll under it without having to put it up on anything
Same with my moms Elantra and GF's Volvo.. I worry Ill drive over the edge. Lol
I have considered getting some ice and water shield to stick on for some additional traction.
I have some nice large, wide blocks that I use. Also have wood wedges to climb. The car has always seemed secure on them - I open the doors and push/pull on the B pillar to try to knock it off before reaching under to drain the oil. Never had a problem!
Annoying thing is my car doesn't have a granny gear, so getting it to climb the ramp is a bit hard.
My Jeep is tall enough that I can just roll under it without having to put it up on anything
Same with my moms Elantra and GF's Volvo.. I worry Ill drive over the edge. Lol
I have considered getting some ice and water shield to stick on for some additional traction.
Rhino Ramps FTW. No scraping on my low profile Impreza 5-door. Piece of cake to drive on, even on the treated garage floor, although I suspect having AWD makes this easier to begin with.
For over twenty years until I quit DIY work, I used some ramps I made from a free untreated railroad cross tie. They had a 1x2 at the end to stop the wheel. They were heavy, but lifted the car enough for oil changes and other jobs.
Rhino Ramps are perfect for oil changes.
I bought a set after one oil change on the BMW.
They make oil changes so easy, are much quicker to use than a floor jack and stands and take up very little garage space.
Much of the scrapping is probably caused by bounce.
Drive the car on to the incline very gently and back it off the same way and I doubt that you'll get any scrapes.
I bought a set after one oil change on the BMW.
They make oil changes so easy, are much quicker to use than a floor jack and stands and take up very little garage space.
Much of the scrapping is probably caused by bounce.
Drive the car on to the incline very gently and back it off the same way and I doubt that you'll get any scrapes.
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