MolaKule
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Why not consider a "Blend," a semi-synthetic, or what is sometimes called a, "para-synthetic," and get the best of both worlds at a decent price?
Synthetic is superior...so WHY use conventional???
- Thread starter Ed_Flecko
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I have used not only used conventional for 20 years but store brand conventional (mostly walmart supertech and target car & driver) and whatever is on sale conventional (Peak, Mobil 5000, Quaker State Green Bottle). All the cars got wrecked by a family member before engine had problem - 1990 camry 220K+ when wrecked 2004; 1999 ranger 220K+ when wrecked 2013; 1995 Dodge Neon 210K+ when wrecked 2008; 1995 maxima 245K when I donated in 2014
Neon did need engine work at 140K due to broken timing belt - but that's on me for not changing ... not the oil
Up until last couple of years, I did change oil between 3K-4K. I have bumped it up to 4K-5K but psychologically I cant bring myself to go past 5K
Neon did need engine work at 140K due to broken timing belt - but that's on me for not changing ... not the oil
Up until last couple of years, I did change oil between 3K-4K. I have bumped it up to 4K-5K but psychologically I cant bring myself to go past 5K
Originally Posted By: Ed_Flecko
I often scratch my head...
You're obviously not scratching your head hard enough...
I often scratch my head...
You're obviously not scratching your head hard enough...
You're new here and it seems you have a lot of reading to do. The answers to your question are all over this site as to why conventional oil works for many people and their situations.
Nick1994
$100 site donor 2024
My grandma drives 3,000 miles per year. Why would I change her oil with synthetic? Once a year oil change is good enough for her car.
For those still trying to convince themselves conventionals are essentially equal to synthetics, look at Mobil products:
Mobil 5000, and Mobil 1 Extended Performance (15,000 miles).
Mobil 5000, and Mobil 1 Extended Performance (15,000 miles).
Originally Posted By: d00df00d
Originally Posted By: Ed_Flecko
I can see purchasing a lower quality tire
Whoa, whoa. Hold it right there.
I would skimp on oil LONG before I would skimp on tires. Longevity is NOT more important than safety.
This is something that I have thought about. Perhaps instead of "Lower quality" the better expression would be "Tires that do not have as long an expected treadware life."
I have always bought very high quality tires. I have had them last 90k miles. I now have a couple of vehicles that only go 5-10k miles per year. Putting 90k tires on them is silly, since the tires are junk after 6 years, when they time out.
I would be better off getting 40k tires, and replacing them on time limits, rather than paying for 50k of tread I will never get to use.
Oil can be considered in a similar vein.
Originally Posted By: Ed_Flecko
I can see purchasing a lower quality tire
Whoa, whoa. Hold it right there.
I would skimp on oil LONG before I would skimp on tires. Longevity is NOT more important than safety.
This is something that I have thought about. Perhaps instead of "Lower quality" the better expression would be "Tires that do not have as long an expected treadware life."
I have always bought very high quality tires. I have had them last 90k miles. I now have a couple of vehicles that only go 5-10k miles per year. Putting 90k tires on them is silly, since the tires are junk after 6 years, when they time out.
I would be better off getting 40k tires, and replacing them on time limits, rather than paying for 50k of tread I will never get to use.
Oil can be considered in a similar vein.
Originally Posted By: gfh77665
For those still trying to convince themselves conventionals are essentially equal to synthetics, look at Mobil products:
Mobil 5000, and Mobil 1 Extended Performance (15,000 miles).
So......If I feel it necessary to change my oil yearly, and only drive a particular car 5k miles per year......Why pay for the 15k oil?
For those still trying to convince themselves conventionals are essentially equal to synthetics, look at Mobil products:
Mobil 5000, and Mobil 1 Extended Performance (15,000 miles).
So......If I feel it necessary to change my oil yearly, and only drive a particular car 5k miles per year......Why pay for the 15k oil?
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With the fire sale prices of engine oils in the US i don't know why they keep stocking conventional at all, the price difference isn't even pocket change.
I don't even look at it never mind consider buying it even for a lawnmower engine, for me personally it has no value whatsoever for a modern engine.
I don't even look at it never mind consider buying it even for a lawnmower engine, for me personally it has no value whatsoever for a modern engine.
For people who change their own oil I honestly don't see a reason why anyone would use conventional now-a-days. I don't see any cost savings when it comes to conventional for a money-savvy DIYer. If you do a little shopping and don't mind filling out rebates you can do a PP and FU filter change for under $8 total including tax. Seeing how most companies don't run that great of incentives on their conventional lines, you'd be hard pressed to do a conventional oil change with a good filter for under $8 unless you find some old stock on a clearance shelf.
Even if you do it yourself but don't shop around and refuse to take advantage of the marketing incentives you are still looking at $17.88 for PYB vs $22.66 for the PP which is only a 25% increase in your fluid costs but you could likely run the oil for a longer interval.
For someone going to a oil change shop I can totally see them having a hard time justifying the up-charge to synthetic. At my local Pep Boys the conventional change costs $21.99 vs $69.99 for the synthetic. When you are talking over 3x the price I could see it especially because most of these people are just going to stick to whatever OCI the sticker says.
Even if you do it yourself but don't shop around and refuse to take advantage of the marketing incentives you are still looking at $17.88 for PYB vs $22.66 for the PP which is only a 25% increase in your fluid costs but you could likely run the oil for a longer interval.
For someone going to a oil change shop I can totally see them having a hard time justifying the up-charge to synthetic. At my local Pep Boys the conventional change costs $21.99 vs $69.99 for the synthetic. When you are talking over 3x the price I could see it especially because most of these people are just going to stick to whatever OCI the sticker says.
Originally Posted By: Nyogtha
Personally, I'm glad to have choices available as a consumer.
Since I cook outdoors a lot, I'll make an analogy with beef.
I can buy USDA select, USDA Choice, or USDA Prime, but each tier typically has its own pricing for a given cut.
If I can find USDA Choice or USDA Prime at a competitive or even lower cost than USDA Select, can you guess which grade I'll buy?
Does this mean I completely avoid USDA Select? Absolutely not, especially when I find I can buy a whole USDA Select tenderloin at $7/lb.
I buy grass fed beef. way, way healthier and it doesn't have that rancid after taste of corn finished [censored] feed beef.
Personally, I'm glad to have choices available as a consumer.
Since I cook outdoors a lot, I'll make an analogy with beef.
I can buy USDA select, USDA Choice, or USDA Prime, but each tier typically has its own pricing for a given cut.
If I can find USDA Choice or USDA Prime at a competitive or even lower cost than USDA Select, can you guess which grade I'll buy?
Does this mean I completely avoid USDA Select? Absolutely not, especially when I find I can buy a whole USDA Select tenderloin at $7/lb.
I buy grass fed beef. way, way healthier and it doesn't have that rancid after taste of corn finished [censored] feed beef.
Originally Posted By: Trav
With the fire sale prices of engine oils in the US i don't know why they keep stocking conventional at all, the price difference isn't even pocket change.
I don't even look at it never mind consider buying it even for a lawnmower engine, for me personally it has no value whatsoever for a modern engine.
HA! That's funny you say that - I thought I was the only one who runs Mobile 1 - Extended Performance in my lawn mower!
Ed
With the fire sale prices of engine oils in the US i don't know why they keep stocking conventional at all, the price difference isn't even pocket change.
I don't even look at it never mind consider buying it even for a lawnmower engine, for me personally it has no value whatsoever for a modern engine.
HA! That's funny you say that - I thought I was the only one who runs Mobile 1 - Extended Performance in my lawn mower!
Ed
wemay
Site Donor 2023
From Blackstone Labs' F.A.Q. gas/diesel section...
http://www.blackstone-labs.com/faq.php
Q. I should use synthetic, right?
A. ...you should use whatever you want. Synthetic oil won't guarantee a longer engine life any more than my eating organic food will guarantee I'll live until I'm 90. We here at Blackstone we generally use regular petroleum-based oil because honestly, it works just as well for us.
I'd go out on a limb and say they know what their talking about after testing thousands of used oil samples.
http://www.blackstone-labs.com/faq.php
Q. I should use synthetic, right?
A. ...you should use whatever you want. Synthetic oil won't guarantee a longer engine life any more than my eating organic food will guarantee I'll live until I'm 90. We here at Blackstone we generally use regular petroleum-based oil because honestly, it works just as well for us.
I'd go out on a limb and say they know what their talking about after testing thousands of used oil samples.
I live in Minnesota. We heavily salt the roads. Cars around here do not die from oil related issues. They die cause at year 12, they start to rust and fall apart. That said, I have switched to synthetic since the OCI's are so long that it makes the cost differential about the same and I like the cold start capabilites you get with 0 weight oil.
Originally Posted By: CT8
Originally Posted By: Nyogtha
Personally, I'm glad to have choices available as a consumer.
Since I cook outdoors a lot, I'll make an analogy with beef.
I can buy USDA select, USDA Choice, or USDA Prime, but each tier typically has its own pricing for a given cut.
If I can find USDA Choice or USDA Prime at a competitive or even lower cost than USDA Select, can you guess which grade I'll buy?
Does this mean I completely avoid USDA Select? Absolutely not, especially when I find I can buy a whole USDA Select tenderloin at $7/lb.
I buy grass fed beef. way, way healthier and it doesn't have that rancid after taste of corn finished [censored] feed beef.
And let's not forget that the corn is likely GMO, courtesy of our friends at Monsanto.
Ed
Originally Posted By: Nyogtha
Personally, I'm glad to have choices available as a consumer.
Since I cook outdoors a lot, I'll make an analogy with beef.
I can buy USDA select, USDA Choice, or USDA Prime, but each tier typically has its own pricing for a given cut.
If I can find USDA Choice or USDA Prime at a competitive or even lower cost than USDA Select, can you guess which grade I'll buy?
Does this mean I completely avoid USDA Select? Absolutely not, especially when I find I can buy a whole USDA Select tenderloin at $7/lb.
I buy grass fed beef. way, way healthier and it doesn't have that rancid after taste of corn finished [censored] feed beef.
And let's not forget that the corn is likely GMO, courtesy of our friends at Monsanto.
Ed
Originally Posted By: 4wheeldog
I have always bought very high quality tires. I have had them last 90k miles. I now have a couple of vehicles that only go 5-10k miles per year. Putting 90k tires on them is silly, since the tires are junk after 6 years, when they time out.
I would be better off getting 40k tires, and replacing them on time limits, rather than paying for 50k of tread I will never get to use.
Oil can be considered in a similar vein.
Define quality. Your definition is how many miles you can get out of them. I'm sure they are the hardest compound available and handle pretty poorly compared to a 40k mile warranty decent speed rated tire. The perfomance quality of tire doesn't increase with how many miles it can go, in fact it is usually the opposite. The only thing a 90k treadlife tire excels at is not costing a lot of $$$.
That being said, spend the least on the product that covers your vehicles needs with a little too spare. Not way over or way under.
I have always bought very high quality tires. I have had them last 90k miles. I now have a couple of vehicles that only go 5-10k miles per year. Putting 90k tires on them is silly, since the tires are junk after 6 years, when they time out.
I would be better off getting 40k tires, and replacing them on time limits, rather than paying for 50k of tread I will never get to use.
Oil can be considered in a similar vein.
Define quality. Your definition is how many miles you can get out of them. I'm sure they are the hardest compound available and handle pretty poorly compared to a 40k mile warranty decent speed rated tire. The perfomance quality of tire doesn't increase with how many miles it can go, in fact it is usually the opposite. The only thing a 90k treadlife tire excels at is not costing a lot of $$$.
That being said, spend the least on the product that covers your vehicles needs with a little too spare. Not way over or way under.
When I can start buying synthetic at $0.69/qt for all the vehicles then I'll use only full synthetic. For a 3-5K OCI the citgo synthetic blend for 0.69/qt is a better option. Why would I spend $19 on full synthetic, when I can do a whole OCI for ~$8. 5qts citgo + 3.27 puro classic or napa silver. I can do 2 OCIs for less than the cost of 1 5qt jug of synthetic oil.
I do use full synthetic on the ecoboost for being DI and TT.
I do use full synthetic on the ecoboost for being DI and TT.
Originally Posted By: dnewton3
Conventionals vs. Synthetics isn't about which is "better"; it's about which lasts longer, while assuring safe operation, in relation to cost. Any product can be over or under utilized. The same applies to filters.
Make an informed decision; first consider your operating conditions, next determine your maintenance plan, and then pick your lube and filter. Don't do it the other way around ...
I can't believe nobody had posted that yet!
Conventionals vs. Synthetics isn't about which is "better"; it's about which lasts longer, while assuring safe operation, in relation to cost. Any product can be over or under utilized. The same applies to filters.
Make an informed decision; first consider your operating conditions, next determine your maintenance plan, and then pick your lube and filter. Don't do it the other way around ...
I can't believe nobody had posted that yet!
Originally Posted By: 4wheeldog
Originally Posted By: gfh77665
For those still trying to convince themselves conventionals are essentially equal to synthetics, look at Mobil products:
Mobil 5000, and Mobil 1 Extended Performance (15,000 miles).
So......If I feel it necessary to change my oil yearly, and only drive a particular car 5k miles per year......Why pay for the 15k oil?
The 5000 OCI and the 15,000 mile OCI is an illustration of the relative capabilities of two of XOM's products. It does not take much technical knowledge to see the difference.
XOM does not address your particular feeling on yearly changes or driving habits.
5000 vs. 15,000 is a clear, easy to understand metric that speaks volumes.
Originally Posted By: gfh77665
For those still trying to convince themselves conventionals are essentially equal to synthetics, look at Mobil products:
Mobil 5000, and Mobil 1 Extended Performance (15,000 miles).
So......If I feel it necessary to change my oil yearly, and only drive a particular car 5k miles per year......Why pay for the 15k oil?
The 5000 OCI and the 15,000 mile OCI is an illustration of the relative capabilities of two of XOM's products. It does not take much technical knowledge to see the difference.
XOM does not address your particular feeling on yearly changes or driving habits.
5000 vs. 15,000 is a clear, easy to understand metric that speaks volumes.
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