Cost like most state... and application.
I have a beater. 207K+ now. Why would I spend more for a synthetic? I do not drive it enough to take advantage of an extended drain, the engine is likely not going to last longer. I don't get the lower viscosity benefit because I add 5w20/Xw30 mix in an engine that recommends 5w30 (and TAKES 10w30/10w40) The Subaru EJ25 are notoriously soft on oil (if they are hard on original HG). So why use Syn?
Now, in my MR2, I use Syn without getting the mileage benefit, to few miles. I drive the tires off of it and the 1ZZ is tough on oil.
Blindly using anything because it is "better" without context on the application is not always the "best" way to approach it.
Edit: I use "whatever is on clearance" for the beater. So if I get synblend for $5 a jug, in it goes.
I have a beater. 207K+ now. Why would I spend more for a synthetic? I do not drive it enough to take advantage of an extended drain, the engine is likely not going to last longer. I don't get the lower viscosity benefit because I add 5w20/Xw30 mix in an engine that recommends 5w30 (and TAKES 10w30/10w40) The Subaru EJ25 are notoriously soft on oil (if they are hard on original HG). So why use Syn?
Now, in my MR2, I use Syn without getting the mileage benefit, to few miles. I drive the tires off of it and the 1ZZ is tough on oil.
Blindly using anything because it is "better" without context on the application is not always the "best" way to approach it.
Edit: I use "whatever is on clearance" for the beater. So if I get synblend for $5 a jug, in it goes.
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