Synthetic is superior...so WHY use conventional???

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Depends on the application.

My Matrix calls for 5k mile oil changes with 5w30 conventional.

I'll stick with Mobil Super.

My Rav4 calls for 10k mile oil changes with 0w20 toyota synthetic.

Neither engine is super high performance, just the drain interval is different.

I have never done a long OCI in any car, I get too impatient.
 
Originally Posted By: Ed_Flecko
I often scratch my head and ponder this question - why does ANYONE choose to use conventional oil since, I think, everyone would agree that (as a general rule) synthetic is just simply better?


Given that none of the major manufacturers will actually tell you what it is you are buying for $7 a quart, I'll call a cheery '[censored]' on your first supposition. Apart from a few edge conditions such as extreme cold or heat, I think you need to offer objective proof that 'Syn' really is significantly 'better' for Joe Sixpack and his Grocery Getter. And, if 'Syn' really is better, please explain how and why. Please tell me exactly what is in the bottle that makes it so.

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Is it just ignorance about the differences about motor oil and what a critical component of your vehicle oil is? I don't think there's ANYTHING a conventional oil is good for that a synthetic isn't better for, is there? Wouldn't the "worst" synthetic oil be better than ANY conventional oil or am I wrong?


Please define Synthetic. Since the manufacturers won't tell the consumer the supposedly 'proprietary' * magic recipe, how can we even know what a given brand considers to be 'synthetic?' And since most, if not all, 'Dino' oils contain at least a dash of very high grade Grp3+ base oils (at least quasi-synthetic), the line dividing Dino from SYN rapidly starts to become somewhat blurry.

What the mfgs need is a list of base stocks that are considered to be Syn, and a list of what % of these stocks classifies an oil as Syn. Until something like this is published, I think the whole 'Dino vs Syn' argument is 100% pointless.

* - (Minor rant alert) The dodge that "We can't tell you, it's proprietary." is a transparent lie. Does XOM really want us to believe that SOPUS hasn't thoroughly analyzed and dissected their products? I'm sure that all the majors have a very good idea of what the other guys are selling. Base stock mix, additive packs, MSG and Aspartame, the works. "It's proprietary' is nothing more than a convenient excuse to mislead and misinform the customer.
 
To the OP,are you talking grpIV or grpV? Or are you ok with grpIII or maybe a blend of some grp II, GRP III and a dash of ESTER?
Do you see my point?

All of this talk about synthetic vs. conventional leads me to ask who uses a true synthetic ..show of hands,please.

Most of us use some type of blend. Some of which can officially be labelled synthetic here in the U.S. and maybe in Europe by now.
 
While there are certainly different grades of synthetic oil, synthetic is generally better for the engine. Conventional, modern conventional of any reputable brand, is quite good these days...but you can maximize your dollars by going to longer OCIs and using a better quality filter (which is always better). It means less oil changes which means less potential for screwing something up or having an oil change place screw something up. They generally clean much better, are better in cold start situations, and can be used longer. The cost, when you purchase using appropriate deals, is not so much more significant that it's worth arguing over, either.

Positives +
Less frequent oil changes
Better cold start
Cleans the engine better

Negatives -
Short term cost is higher
 
Originally Posted By: Cujobob
synthetic is generally better for the engine.


Does that apply to Walmart synthetic too?
smile.gif
 
Originally Posted By: Cujobob
While there are certainly different grades of synthetic oil, synthetic is generally better for the engine. Conventional, modern conventional of any reputable brand, is quite good these days...but you can maximize your dollars by going to longer OCIs and using a better quality filter (which is always better). It means less oil changes which means less potential for screwing something up or having an oil change place screw something up. They generally clean much better, are better in cold start situations, and can be used longer. The cost, when you purchase using appropriate deals, is not so much more significant that it's worth arguing over, either.

Positives +
Less frequent oil changes
Better cold start
Cleans the engine better

Negatives -
Short term cost is higher



Everything is worth discussing.... everything....

But here is where application hits those pro/cons

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Less frequent oil changes


If and only if you are collecting enough miles to warrant the extended change. If you are doing 5K or less per year, there is no additional benefit for the "extra" range of the Syn. The benefit is even worse if you use the vehicle like I use my beater... 30min-hour-ish trips over highways for 90% the trips but infrequently to keep the mileage low.

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Better cold start

Not all locations have -30 degree temps. May folks, even 40F degrees is about as low as they normally see so that fractional cold-start benefit is mute... especially if the are running a thinner mix to begin with. Even in my "cooler" NC climate, it is a normal 10-30 degree winter morning for me and that is easily handled by conventional. Even the high temp advantage for Syn is negated if you have the "vanilla" grocery getter that might see 3500 RPMs once in a blue moon.

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Cleans the engine better

Again, if you are adding fewer miles the frequent oil changes based on a calendar interval negates this as relatively fresh conventional would be plenty. Heck, even of you are doing decent OCI on conventional, you are not going to have any problem unless it was a known coker.

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Negatives -
Short term cost is higher

Longer-term cost are higher too. If conventional use was causing failures, then you could recoup the added cost...even for few-milers. However, engine failure related to oil, including conventional is as rare as an US Public High School using manual gearboxes for their student driver courses. At most, Syns are going to be scratch with cost. With many Conventional being able to do 5000mi+, especially with highway warriors, you really have to watch you data. If Mobil 5K gets 5,000mi per oil change @ $13 per 5qts, M1 @ $23 (regular) must get 8846 miles per OCI to be as cost effective. However, if your vehicle is easy on oil, know your UOA, and can get say 6500mi from M5K, you must get 11,500mi from the regular M1. Actually, the easier the vehicle is on oil, the more conventional become cost effective. Now, if you can get Syn on significant discount, it helps a lot but then a bargain quality conventional gets a better cost/benefit ratio.

The trick is that to get the benefits of Syn, your application must warrant the additional cost. For my fleet, some vehicle which run 10 hours / 165 miles a day between 0-35mph with constant stop/go... yeah, they get syn with an extreme service schedule. Others that get only 1000 highway miles a month get Dino/SynBlend and 7500 OCI.


You don't use a 40 foot ladder to fix a 8' lightbulb...
 
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In daily driver/mass produced family vehicles:

GF-5/API SN Conventional Oil at 5-7K mile oci (oci may vary of course)
-$8-$10 less expensive than synthetic at regular retail price
-many OEM OCi warranty limitations make it a better ROI (-dnewton3)
-in non-artic circle/non-Saudi deserts, lubricates as well as synthetics
-has historically kept cars on the road as long as synthetics
-with the exception of possibly a little more varnish - cleans better than needed.

GF-5/API SN Synthetics at 7500+ oci
-better at temp extremes where oxidation and start-up wear is concerned
-If used correctly, can be cheaper in the long run
-better at extending oci
-'helps many sleep better at night'
-'cheap insurance'
 
Originally Posted By: wemay
In daily driver/mass produced family vehicles:

GF-5/API SN Conventional Oil at 5-7K mile oci (oci may vary of course)
-$8-$10 less expensive than synthetic at regular retail price
-many OEM OCi warranty limitations make it a better ROI (-dnewton3)
-in non-artic circle/non-Saudi deserts, lubricates as well as synthetics
-has historically kept cars on the road as long as synthetics
-with the exception of possibly a little more varnish - cleans better than needed.

GF-5/API SN Synthetics at 7500+ oci
-better at temp extremes where oxidation and start-up wear is concerned
-If used correctly, can be cheaper in the long run
-better at extending oci
-'helps many sleep better at night'
-'cheap insurance'


Good breakdown.

A bit off topic, but 7500 miles on conventional used to bother me.. Not so much now. My moms Elantra holds slightly less than 5 quarts. My Jeep holds 6 and the engine is literally twice as big. That being said, I think its safe to say the Elantra has a rather large sump compared to its engine size. Plus the 1.8 is extremely easy on oil.

7500 should be easily obtainable with any quality dino.
 
I have used it over the years and have done a 9000+ mile OCI with excellent results. When you look at the additive pack it sems weak. But you will find it puts out some good UOA's
 
Originally Posted By: Al
I have used it over the years and have done a 9000+ mile OCI with excellent results. When you look at the additive pack it sems weak. But you will find it puts out some good UOA's


Hello Al,

Did you mean to post this in a different thread or are you alluding to conventional oil in general?
 
Originally Posted By: dlundblad


A bit off topic, but 7500 miles on conventional used to bother me.. Not so much now. My moms Elantra holds slightly less than 5 quarts. My Jeep holds 6 and the engine is literally twice as big. That being said, I think its safe to say the Elantra has a rather large sump compared to its engine size. Plus the 1.8 is extremely easy on oil.

7500 should be easily obtainable with any quality dino.



I agree. Especially easy for the Hyundai 1.8 PFI.
 
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What I wonder,take two oils,a name brand conventional and synthetic. What exactly makes the synth "better" per se? The conventional has a mineral base stock and the synth has a more refined mineral base stock,but both mineral base stocks. Looking at VOAs of both,the synth doesn't have a better add pack (from what the VOA shows).

So what makes the synth better? Just less impurities in the base stock since it's more refined? Better add pack that the VOA can't reveal?
 
Originally Posted By: Alamogunr
I haven't read this entire thread but I can state why I use synthetic. I have an '06 Avalon. I intend to keep it at least 2-3 more years. It only has 120K on it now. I change the oil myself at 10K+. I like the warm fuzzy feeling I get that I'm not driving on worn out(my technical term) oil.

I use Schaeffer 5W30. It isn't hard to get once you find a distributor.

My 2013 Tundra will get dealer changes w/TGMO after I use up the freebies. Then I will take it in every 10K, which will be at about 15-18 months. I expect to drive the Tundra until they take away my license.


I use the Schaeffer also. I buy a lot of Schaeffer in bulk for my commercial stuff, so I get a great deal on a case of 5w30 thrown in now and then. All of it as wholesale price and delivered free to me. Now just waiting for OLM to get under 10% so that I can drain and send in a sample to see how the 5w30 is working in my 5.3L GM engine with around 30K miles on it.
 
How does one define "Better"?

I've been driving for almost 40 years and changing my own oil for that time, and never had any engine failure or issues that were attributable to oil failure. And that was before oils and filters were as good as they now are.

There's a tendency to jump on the newer is better band wagon, and surely with some things, it's justified. Other times, it's really a lot of marketing hype to justify getting you to spend the extra $$.

Technology might always move forward, but that doesn't mean it's always to a better place.
 
Originally Posted By: wemay
Originally Posted By: Al
I have used it over the years and have done a 9000+ mile OCI with excellent results. When you look at the additive pack it sems weak. But you will find it puts out some good UOA's


Hello Al,

Did you mean to post this in a different thread or are you alluding to conventional oil in general?


My apologies.I forgot to "quote" the post above I was responding to:
smile.gif

Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
Originally Posted By: Cujobob
synthetic is generally better for the engine.


Does that apply to Walmart synthetic too?
smile.gif
 
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