Struggling with 2003 Camry last night

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Ok, so yesterday, at Napa, I bought the PCV valve for the camry which is 22mm, but I bought a 7/8 socket since the PCV for the Taurus is a square 7/8, so it'd be "universal" instead of having to buy two sockets. It fits but could be tighter but is a little loose, but he said 7/8 will be able to screw the PCV valve in it.

Anyways, he told me how use the the serp. belt tool. He said you don't use it to loosen the bolt, you use it to "grip" the 19mm bolt/nut to push it back, is that right? So you don't tighten or loosen that nut, because the previous day, Autozone said you tighten and loosen that nut, rather than push it back, so I'm confused as to what to do. I'll take napa's words over the autozoner's, so just use the serp belt tool (which isn't required in my case, right? Use a breaker bar and a 19mm socket or a longer ratchet and exert force to push the tensioner back to release tension but don't loosen the bolt, correct? My serp belt definitely could use a change even without the water pump leaking, but another thing is, with the youtube demo videos, they mentioned open up the inner fender and take it off to gain more access, is that required or know, as I've gotten into some minor accidents and my inner fender is quite torn up, and I worry once I take it off, I won't be able to put it back on. Thanks.

The water pump from amazon hasn't arrived yet, but I do plan to do this soon and I got an aisin one from amazon. The parts store people told me aluminum anti seize is better, but copper really is better? Thanks.
 
Harbor Freight is having a extra black friday sale this weekend where torque wrenches are on sale for 9.99 each with a limit of 5 but one coupon a day, so I plan to get one today and one tomorrow. I asked autozone about torque wrenches and currently am loaning one of theirs. So apparently, the cheap and old kind of torque wrench as a needle and that one is harder to use, whereas the ones we use now and are talking about is like a ratchet except you twist the handle to get to the right specs. Anyways, how important is a torque wrench? Should it be used for all automotive repairs and use it in place of a standard ratchet/socket wrench? In the case of a water pump, I need to torque it to the right specs, right, or could I get away with a ratchet and "guessing" or estimating on how tight to tighten the bolts? This site is on bikes/cycling, but it says they are important. I just wanted to hear your feedback on them, as this weekend is a pefect time for me to get torque wrenches. Apparently, there aer 2 you need, one for "inch pounds, usually from 20-200" and the other is for foot pounds, I think it's up to like 200 ft pounds or something, I can't remember the range. Should I get 2, or do I really only need the inch pounds one, esp for small repairs like the water pump or retorquing the valve cover (see my other thread on that) or do I need just one, or do I need the foot pounds one for the ball joint job I plan to also do soon? Thanks.


http://www.cyclingnews.com/features/torque-wrenches-why-you-need-one-and-how-to-use-them/
 
Wow.

I've never, ever, seen someone ask questions on how to use two different types of wrenches in consecutive posts before.

Thank you for that, my week is complete.

BC.
 
Originally Posted By: Bladecutter
Wow.

I've never, ever, seen someone ask questions on how to use two different types of wrenches in consecutive posts before.

Thank you for that, my week is complete.

BC.


These are not serious questions. This is how he gets his jollies. Hopefully he will find a girlfriend soon and leave us alone.
 
I know what "engineer20" does for a living: He is an auctioneer.

Just look at those solidly-built blocks of run-on text. I used the last two blocks of his to build a retaining-wall to hold back the flood of water from our recent rainstorms, and it is holding magnificently; better than those wimpy sandbags I had been using before.

It is indeed impressive how engineer20 never seems to need to pause for breath during such impressive blasts.
 
The stuff an auctioneer says actually leads somewhere though. The price goes up higher and higher until finally "SOLD!" at the end.
 
MY power windows on the camry go down a lot slower than they used to. Is there some sort of a lube I can use? or lube the motor apparently in the door or replace the power window motor, but if you do that, would that cost a lot? the power window on the passenger right side rear window no longer opens/closes while the other three do, how much is it to fix that in terms of parts, go to a junkyard and pull it out, or get it from oreilly's/aap, etc, and what would be a good brand for the motor?
also, my seatbelt is stubborn and is slow to retract, i asked the deaer about lube and they gave me the [censored] response of having to replace the whole seatbelt, but that is a bit much, could i lube any part of the seatbelt and what kidn of lube would I use? thanks.
 
If you would do some research on TN you'd find that that issue regarding the windows has been answered/addressed in depth...

Your question here insults those who take time and make the effort to inform those who would research and find the answers to their problems.
 
Originally Posted By: KitaCam
If you would do some research on TN you'd find that that issue regarding the windows has been answered/addressed in depth...

Your question here insults those who take time and make the effort to inform those who would research and find the answers to their problems.


Where do you think he found the question in order to ask it here?

BC.
 
I had it inspected by a mechanic yesterday who said nothing was wrong except for the struts, today I had it inspected by Belle Tire and they said it was all 4 struts and strut mounts (expensive) as well as the ball joint, but the ball joint is all that's in the way of an alignment (my car is way out of alignment and I need to get it done or else it's eating tires) since the edges of tires on my camry have been worn pretty severely, so I need an alignment, and they told me the oil leak was from the valve cover gasket (just done 2 years ago, the 1 year warranty is over), and that the water pump/serp belt are fine and aren't leaking, but if they aren't, then why do I see that pink spot?
Anyways, I need to get the ball joint done. Is a valve cover gasket an easy DIY job? is it easy to pull the valve cover and what special tools would I need for that? Would retorquing the gasket perhaps help, as the mechanic that did it for me 2 years ago said they could retorque it for me for free.
 
Originally Posted By: engineer20
I had it inspected by a mechanic yesterday who said nothing was wrong except for the struts, today I had it inspected by Belle Tire and they said it was all 4 struts and strut mounts (expensive) as well as the ball joint, but the ball joint is all that's in the way of an alignment (my car is way out of alignment and I need to get it done or else it's eating tires) since the edges of tires on my camry have been worn pretty severely, so I need an alignment, and they told me the oil leak was from the valve cover gasket (just done 2 years ago, the 1 year warranty is over), and that the water pump/serp belt are fine and aren't leaking, but if they aren't, then why do I see that pink spot?
Anyways, I need to get the ball joint done. Is a valve cover gasket an easy DIY job? is it easy to pull the valve cover and what special tools would I need for that? Would retorquing the gasket perhaps help, as the mechanic that did it for me 2 years ago said they could retorque it for me for free.


The valve cover gasket, if anything like a Civic, is super easy. You just need to make sure you torque the bolts down to the correct specification and throw some gasket goo in the specified corners. It may help to retorque it. You probably just need a ratchet with the proper socket, pliers to pop some hoses off, and a rubber mallet to urge the cover loose. Do you have a manual for your car for repairs? I just had 4 struts and strut mounts done on my Civic a while back. Set me back about $1400.
 
How about that, you found yet another new problem with your car that is good enough to distract you from FIXING THE BALL JOINT THAT IS NEAR THE FAILURE POINT.

When your ball joint separates, and you crash into another car, and send a couple of cute little kids to the hospital, you can at least tell their parents that you've been researching ways to fix the valve cover gasket while you ignored the failing part that sent their kids to the emergency room.

You can then pop the hood of your wrecked pile of junk and show them how nice and clean your valve cover gasket and cylinder head cover is.

Wait...

This is you we're talking about.
You either don't actually have a car, or don't have the ability to actually fix the car yourself anyway.

You'll just crash your car, and nearly kill someone.

BC.
 
Originally Posted By: Bladecutter
How about that, you found yet another new problem with your car that is good enough to distract you from FIXING THE BALL JOINT THAT IS NEAR THE FAILURE POINT.

When your ball joint separates, and you crash into another car, and send a couple of cute little kids to the hospital, you can at least tell their parents that you've been researching ways to fix the valve cover gasket while you ignored the failing part that sent their kids to the emergency room.

You can then pop the hood of your wrecked pile of junk and show them how nice and clean your valve cover gasket and cylinder head cover is.

Wait...

This is you we're talking about.
You either don't actually have a car, or don't have the ability to actually fix the car yourself anyway.

You'll just crash your car, and nearly kill someone.

BC.


Stop responding and he will go away.
 
Originally Posted By: Bladecutter
How about that, you found yet another new problem with your car that is good enough to distract you from FIXING THE BALL JOINT THAT IS NEAR THE FAILURE POINT.



Nah, lubing your seat belt and power windows is more important. I'll give him this: he's a pretty good troll!
 
Originally Posted By: zrxkawboy
Originally Posted By: Bladecutter
How about that, you found yet another new problem with your car that is good enough to distract you from FIXING THE BALL JOINT THAT IS NEAR THE FAILURE POINT.



Nah, lubing your seat belt and power windows is more important. I'll give him this: he's a pretty good troll!


I'm not a troll. Also, the ball joint, I was just curious about it, apparently the car isn't alignmable and I just want an alignment so the car doesn't eat tires up, but they told me the ball joint wasn't in horrible shape or near failure, there was just a little play in it, so calm down, keep calm and reply to engiener20, lol.

Anyways, there won't be an accident, none of that negative stuff you're implying. I was just curious but first I'll get the valve cover gasket retorqued, and then I'll see if it's still leaking. Then, I'll do the ball joint soon and align after that. I'll wiat till "shocktober" when they have strut sales at parts stores and then do the struts as those can wait and then subsequently realign my vehicle after the struts.
 
Rockauto with discount codes will get you decent sensen struts way cheaper than shocktober, which is only ten months away. Besides, I want to read about your adventures with spring compressors, and time is ticking.
 
Originally Posted By: engineer20
Originally Posted By: zrxkawboy
Originally Posted By: Bladecutter
How about that, you found yet another new problem with your car that is good enough to distract you from FIXING THE BALL JOINT THAT IS NEAR THE FAILURE POINT.



Nah, lubing your seat belt and power windows is more important. I'll give him this: he's a pretty good troll!


I'm not a troll. Also, the ball joint, I was just curious about it, apparently the car isn't alignmable and I just want an alignment so the car doesn't eat tires up, but they told me the ball joint wasn't in horrible shape or near failure, there was just a little play in it, so calm down, keep calm and reply to engineer20, lol.

Anyways, there won't be an accident, none of that negative stuff you're implying. .....


WRONG, WRONG, WRONG
.....I know that failing ball joints and other suspension parts can fall off the car and dismount the wheel....I know this from personal experience...your attitude puts your life and others on the road in danger...shame on you for discounting the advice we've given to you....this is no joking matter.

...by your own admission you don't know what you're talking about, but believe that all the mechanics, indies and dealers as well, are either ignorant or lying to you, and that we here are not serious in dealing with you...this is how children behave.

You need to reconsider your behavior.
 
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this guy (GHT?!) is playing us for a fool all along, yet 16+ pages of response/reply and you folks still not getting it?!

Enthusiasm aside: I refused to provide any help (I can sense the behaviour), and yet you posters still not getting it?!

Sheesh! no wonder BITOG is infested with GHT and the likes these days...

*wake up and smell da coffee!!*

Q.
 
Originally Posted By: KitaCam
failing ball joints and other suspension parts can fall off the car and dismount the wheel

This is quite true, and a failing balljoint should be replaced.

But let's be realistic and keep our alarm for situations where alarm is warranted. Your bolded and underlined insistences that engineer20 is endangering little kids by his failure to replace the balljoint just makes you look like you're irrationally angry that he's not listening to you.

It may seem counter-intuitive, but a balljoint that separates is not normally something that causes collisions or deaths. I have seen many failed balljoints, all of them of the load-bearing type. Damage ensued to the vehicles -- often expensive damage -- but nobody was ever hurt, just frightened.

Engineer20 is like Joseph: a lost cause. I also believe he is less than truthful. Much less.
 
Originally Posted By: Tegger
Originally Posted By: KitaCam
failing ball joints and other suspension parts can fall off the car and dismount the wheel

This is quite true, and a failing balljoint should be replaced.

But let's be realistic and keep our alarm for situations where alarm is warranted. Your bolded and underlined insistences that engineer20 is endangering little kids by his failure to replace the balljoint just makes you look like you're irrationally angry that he's not listening to you.

It may seem counter-intuitive, but a balljoint that separates is not normally something that causes collisions or deaths. I have seen many failed balljoints, all of them of the load-bearing type. Damage ensued to the vehicles -- often expensive damage -- but nobody was ever hurt, just frightened.

Engineer20 is like Joseph: a lost cause. I also believe he is less than truthful. Much less.


1. Having personally experienced a wheel assembly literally fall of the axle I can testify the danger of not replacing failing suspension parts....this is NOT an irrational concern when someone has no clue how to maintain a car and refuses to take the advice from those who do, whether mechanics or forum members.
2. He claims that a Toyo PCV valve would cost him $13-14 in Michigan, so I fact-checked that and Spartan Toyota of East Lansing lists the valve @ $4.22....so yes I do believe E20 is much less than truthful....
3. The bold and underlined words was simply to identify what I was referring to in his paragraph of run-on sentences and ideas.
 
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