Struggling with 2003 Camry last night

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I'm not trolling, I'm just trying to learn about cars. While DIY does save money it's not just that. It's more about the parts. I know of one mechanic who will accept customer supplied parts but recently began to charge extra on labor if you did so. The parts they supply usually aren't OEM, which kitacam cares so much about, and they're "unknown" or they're ripping you off with a horrible brand as in regular brake pads for a premium price, which was what I read about on this article I read this morning about brake job ripoffs. Example, at my previous goodyear tire place, while they have cheap tires and have a kelly edge for 82 installed now, they use federated brake pads which are average and I saw were only 18 dollars online yet they charge you 100 on the job, whereas if you DIY, you can use akebono for 50 or less and pay none on labor, get a lifetime warranty (theirs only had a 12 k warranty), so it makes sense, yes it saves, but it's not just about the money, it's also about the parts and the quality brands, and being able to choose your brand, but also about not wasting money. Engineers are thrifty and dont' like waste. If I can get a lifetime part, why settle for a part which only has a 1 year warranty of an inferior quality?
 
Originally Posted By: surfstar
A halfway decent computer engineer should make enough $ to not worry about car problems also.

Maybe his idea of "computer engineer" is messing around with discarded computer parts in his mom's basement...
 
Originally Posted By: engineer20
Engineers are thrifty and dont' like waste. If I can get a lifetime part, why settle for a part which only has a 1 year warranty of an inferior quality?


You can have the best parts, but if you have no idea how to properly install them, they will offer worse performance or will last shorter than the cheap parts installed correctly (doesn't apply to everything of course).
Auto work is not the same as electronics where installations are mostly mistake proofed (unless you're soldering everything from scratch yourself).
 
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Originally Posted By: engineer20
Originally Posted By: Vikas
He has yet to verify the drip. Somebody showed him a crusted spot on his car.

Put a cardboard under and see if it is dripping. Run the car for 15 minutes and check the cardboard. Find out if you are losing any anti-freeze.


So I just ordered a Bando belt from Napa, 23 dollars, claims it's OEM. Apparently, it's that or Gates, which the parts store have, but I decided on Bando.

Autozone has Dayco belts, are those any good? Those are the kind that are more expensive than Duralast, and the parts store house brands such as carquest, etc at the parts stores, with a similar price to the Bando, is Dayco also oem quality?

The Bando is cheaper than Gates, and I heard is better than the Gates, so I made the right choice, right? I also heard goodyear belts were good and the brand from Continental also makes good belts, how about michelin belts? Thanks.
Why did you include my post? Can anybody provide the rationale for it?
 
So i can hear your input on the bando belt since i recall you wanted me to use the aisin, if I recall correctly. I bought the aisin on amazon. is it the wpt 801?
 
This is not for the OP, who is a troll, but for anyone else who is seriously reading this.

Never bring your own parts to a mechanic. Always hire mechanics on a "furnish and install" basis. If there is a problem with a customer-supplied part, it often ignites a [censored] contest where the mechanic says "It's a defective part" and the parts vendor says "It was improperly installed." The customer is caught in the middle and thoroughly [censored].

If you contract for furnish and install this won't happen. The mechanic has to stand behind the whole job. He needs to deal with the supplier himself and get a new part.
 
Originally Posted By: mk378
This is not for the OP, who is a troll, but for anyone else who is seriously reading this.

Never bring your own parts to a mechanic. Always hire mechanics on a "furnish and install" basis. If there is a problem with a customer-supplied part, it often ignites a [censored] contest where the mechanic says "It's a defective part" and the parts vendor says "It was improperly installed." The customer is caught in the middle and thoroughly [censored].

If you contract for furnish and install this won't happen. The mechanic has to stand behind the whole job. He needs to deal with the supplier himself and get a new part.


So because of this and because I like OEM esp since kitcam really wants me to use OEM, rarely do mechanics do use oem parts, unless you're at the dealership but the dealership uses oem and is a ripoff and they want 500 for the serpentine belt/water pump whereas the water pump aisin could be bought for 130 at aap, 120 at napa, same part, and cheaper online, and the bando belt is 23 at napa, so that's why I prefer bringing my own parts because I can use oem at a fraction of the cost of the dealer, and many mechanics who don't accept parts, use their own parts, which are "aftermarket"
 
You have been told specifically for this car that it is important to buy the pump from the dealer, because Toyota has updated the design and third party units may be an old version.

You can also tell a mechanic to only use genuine Toyota parts. But make him go to the dealer (he will usually get a discount) and buy it.
 
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Originally Posted By: mk378
Never bring your own parts to a mechanic. Always hire mechanics on a "furnish and install" basis. If there is a problem with a customer-supplied part, it often ignites a [censored] contest where the mechanic says "It's a defective part" and the parts vendor says "It was improperly installed." The customer is caught in the middle and thoroughly [censored].

If you contract for furnish and install this won't happen. The mechanic has to stand behind the whole job. He needs to deal with the supplier himself and get a new part.

Excellent points.

In addition to those points, the mechanic also adds a markup on the parts he installs. By providing him with the parts, you rob him of his markup. His labor rate is set considering that he will make money on both labor AND parts.

When you (as a consumer) buy a part, you pay full-retail. The mechanic pays way less than you do for parts, then adds his markup, which brings the part close to what you would have paid full-retail anyway. Only the mechanic gets the markup instead of the parts house.

More about problems with parts: Aftermarket parts are frequently substandard or defective. By supplying the part himself, the mechanic relies on his supplier to deliver the part to him. If the part turns out to be substandard/defective, the mechanic just asks his supplier to drop off a new part next delivery. No sweat. If YOUR part is substandard/defective, YOU have to do all the driving around, presumably in the car that needed fixing to begin with. And then everybody has to wait while you get around to doing that.
 
There's a thread right now about someone that bought a timing belt kit on their own, took it to a shop and now is stuck dealing with the manufacturer himself since a part failed and destroyed his engine.
 
Originally Posted By: dishdude
There's a thread right now about someone that bought a timing belt kit on their own, took it to a shop and now is stuck dealing with the manufacturer himself since a part failed and destroyed his engine.


U mean schoobie-doo?!

Q.
 
Originally Posted By: engineer20
I'm not trolling, I'm just trying to learn about cars.


Yeah, you and GHT both say the exact same thing, but yet neither of you seem to actually try to perform any of the items anyone ever suggests that you do to fix any of your cars.

You both just make more and more posts about different problems on multiple cars, and you ignore anything that actually is repair advise, nor will either of you take your cars to a real mechanic to pay to have the cars fixed correctly.

You are both forum trolls/attention deficit disorder suffering individuals.

BC.
 
Originally Posted By: Vikas
bondo and aisin make no common parts; I did NOT tell you to use bondo water pump and aisin belt :)


You got it mixed up, I got the bando belt from napa, and the aisin water pump from amazon, the WPT 801 According to rockauto, that's the water pump. 60 dollars on amazon, free shipping. Why the antagonistic tone and argumentation? WHy not be nice? I don't get it. When I read your posts, I read a yelling, aggresive tone.
 
Also, I bought aluminum anti seize for the various jobs I need it for yesterday, but I saw there was also copper anti seize. Which is better, or for what applications? Thanks. I'm struggling with the Taurus now because I realized the caliper is leaking (right rear) and I possibly need new brake pads for it.
 
Yes E20 I recommend OEM to you and to anyone who knows as little as you...sometimes OEM parts cost more, but you get the assurance it's the correct part for your car...

Sorry, but your record for misinterpreting and ignoring the advice we've given to you here gives pause to consider whether you accurately interpret and recall what you've been told by mechanics, parts shops and dealers.

It just sounds all too often that you just don't like what they had to say any more than you like what you've read here...
 
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I am going to regret this but I am going to answer his question.

Copper anti-sieze is better than the aluminium for almost any automotive related application.
 
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