Let's talk ring chains...
When you use a Scott Oiler, realize that all you are lubricating is the roller/bushing friction points, and the rings themselves.
The pin/bushing area (where the majority of wear that elongates the chain occurs) is protected by pre-injected lubricant. There should be no lubricant seeping out, and nothing getting in...including lubricant.
For the most part, your chain longevity is dependant on how long the pre-injected lubricant continues to provied the pin/bushing area protection. Once that protection has been depleted, there is nothing you can do. You can turn the oiler all the way up, or hand lube every five minutes...it won't change the results. The chain will be on a fast downhill spiral with no way to slow or stop it. and your sprockets will be on the trek down with it, as it is an elongated chain that wears the sprockets.
Everything above was mentioned considering a perfect world.
However, the world is far from perfect when it comes to chains lasting. If you have a fairly new ring chain of any sort, and it is requiring adjustment on a regular basis, then there may well be a problem.
Most often riders will have a ring chain that has some rings that are damaged. Often they may find a ring(s) that have been torn due to a road or trail hazzard, which can allow the lubricant to seep out and contaminants, like water and grit, to get in.
Other times the rings will not have any physical damage that you can see. But there may well be rings that have small creases in them that can allow lube out and dirt in. These little creases in the ring sealing faces can be caused by several things, but normally it happens because the rider has been misinformed about the maintenance required for ring chains, and don't do much of anything in the way of lubricating the chain. They have been told they are maint. free, and as a result, they neglect doing anything, short of spraying a little WD-40 from time to time.
Without proper lubricating for the rings themsleves, they can damage themselves just from normal operation. And to make matters worse, the solvent heavy water dispersant they use (don't mistake WD-40 for an adequate chain lube)actually will enter the sealed area via micro cracks in the ring faces. The solvent in the product will soften the pre-injected lubricant and help it to find a way out.
Bear in mind that it only takes ONE ring to be damaged, and allow dirt and grit in and lube out, to start the demise of the chain drive.
With just one reel seeing contamination, there will be excess wear at that reel..and that particular pitch will be longer than the rest of the pitches that aren't damaged, and as a result that one bad link is traveling around the sprockets and meeting different teeth each time around. Eventually the bad link will have eaten away at the sprocket teeth.
In that situation, the rider way well not be having to adjust the chain for tension, since it's just one link that is elongating at a fast rate. But, the sprocket teeth are starting to show some wear. Often times riders will start to blame the sprockets for not being able to withstand the beastly motor of their bike, when in fact it is ONE (or most likely more) bad reel(s) causing their sprocket problems.
Another thing to consider is adjustment of the chain. More often than not, a rider will have his chain too tight. It may be that the chain seems fine tension wise, but if it is just a wee bit too tight, it will see excess tension every time the shock compresses to a certain point.
Each time a tight chain sees excess tension, the wear surfaces will see a tremendous amount of heat at the micro level. Quite often more heat and pressure than the lubricant can protect from.
As a result, the chain will wear at a faster rate than normal. Also, in that situation, the chain will also help to ruin the working faces of the sprocket teeth, as well as help to kill your countershaft bearings, wheel bearings, etc...
I know that this statement will bring about some controversy...but, realize that even though a ring chain may well appear to be less maintenance than a standard chain, they are in fact more maintenance intense. It is imperative that you check for physical ring damage, as well as checking for kinks in the chain, which is a tell-tale sign of ring damage.
The standard chain can continue to be lubricated on a regular basis. You can keep fresh lubricant going to ALL the friction points. And as a result, you can keep a standard chain alive much longer than you can the ring chain.
If I were to run an automatic oiler, such as the Scott...I would use it for a standard roller chain, and forget the ring chain.