Reducing Likelihood of Sludge & Varnish ?

on top of that, i remember cars and engines that we killed them every-knight and day , long trips-short trips, track, and were as healthy as new. i miss these old engines..now i can even think of leaving home because i am afraid what/how many engine lights will show up.
sludge was an unknown word then.400.000-500.000 km no worries ! no sludge!
todays engines are like a little crying babies.they always need more attention and when they grow up, puberty comes and they want, money ,more money to spend on them!
 

found this:​

" What is causing the failures?​

This is not down to a design problem, or a mechanical problem with the engine as such but more down to “long-life” servicing which can lead to oil changes occurring every 20,000 miles.
Combine this type of servicing with cars which have missed a service, gone overdue on a service, or even gone to a non-specialist garage where an incorrect oil grade is used during the service, and the result can be catastrophic.

The problem is the engine oil. Engine oil is not only designed to lubricate moving parts it is also used to control temperatures inside the engine, for example by cooling pistons, but also to absorb carbon. Carbon is by-product of combustion and occurs both in petrol and diesel engines.

As soon as you put new oil into an engine it is absorbing carbon from the moment you start the engine, when the oil is new this is not a problem the carbon is absorbed effectively and the car operates as normal. When the engine oil is “used” and has maybe done 10,000 miles + it becomes less effective, when the oil has done 15,000 + miles the oil can no longer absorb the carbon as it should and it starts to solidify or “sludge up” / “coke up” .This sludge then sticks to important engine components and can begin to block oil galleries and oil pumps.

Once oil pumps, and galleries begin to block up, key components begin to get starved of oil, this can quickely lead to permanent damage and failure, often resulting in expensive repairs.

Although we have not have engine seizures with these models we have experienced problems with the Variable camshaft timing ( know as VANOS ) Variable Valve Lift ( Valvetronic ) and the timing chains – all of which can be attributed to poor oil quality or coking up ( Where the oil has begun to turn to sludge ) "

 
It is clean, I know dark but all is shiney metal inside, no varnish. Here is a better shot View attachment 153922
Thanks wlk for the clarification. If we assume the Ford dealer used the cheapest bulk conventional oil in drums that they could find., then the engine cleanliness after 182k miles is due to the previous owners short OCI. I've come to that realization with my own vehicles. Short OCI with lower priced oil is the best way to avoid sludge/varnish/gumed up piston rings (at least in my case where I have engines prone to sludge/varnish).
 
Thanks wlk for the clarification. If we assume the Ford dealer used the cheapest bulk conventional oil in drums that they could find., then the engine cleanliness after 182k miles is due to the previous owners short OCI. I've come to that realization with my own vehicles. Short OCI with lower priced oil is the best way to avoid sludge/varnish/gumed up piston rings (at least in my case where I have engines prone to sludge/varnish).
I did a run of HPL EC30 in the Expedition for 5k miles last year and the filters were very very clean at every filter change. So absolutely short oil changes with bulk dealer oil kept this motor clean. I used to do 3k miles for years, then upped it to 5k in recent years but am rethinking it as it is cheap enough with sales, rebates and clearance finds. I do like short oci personally as it gets you under the vehicle to inspect for other problems and wear items as well but that's just me.
 
Thanks wlk for the clarification. If we assume the Ford dealer used the cheapest bulk conventional oil in drums that they could find., then the engine cleanliness after 182k miles is due to the previous owners short OCI. I've come to that realization with my own vehicles. Short OCI with lower priced oil is the best way to avoid sludge/varnish/gumed up piston rings (at least in my case where I have engines prone to sludge/varnish).
there is quite some truth to that.. I purchased a 2002 Focuz ZX3 from a guy I work with, car was slightly past 100k mile. I know he changed the oil every 3000 miles. at a certain point after purchase I decided to replace the timing belt and upon removal of the rocker cover discovered that the insides of the engine looked like new. I have also had a few vehicles ran on synthetic on long drain intervals( 10k or longer) , and they had a slight coating of varnish but the wear surfaces showed no signs of wear.
 
Base circle of the cam, particularly in a shimmed cam-over-bucket setup, makes little if any contact with the lifter/bucket. I've also seen roller cams with a "path" in the varnish where the roller rolls, so only that part of the lobe is clean, lol.

Here's a pic shamelessly pilfered from @Phishin's thread:
img_20230423_204408-jpg.152318

You can see tracks in the varnish on the lobes.

However, here's the thread in question:

And the pic:
cd35dbec-3d35-4ea0-8d91-b16e99ba7a6c-jpeg.152624
Some question if M1 D1/Gen 3 synthetic oils have the ability to clean OR simply prevent engines from varnish / sludge in the first place - your thoughts ?
 
Some question if M1 D1/Gen 3 synthetic oils have the ability to clean OR simply prevent engines from varnish / sludge in the first place - your thoughts ?
If so, it is very limited due to base oil selection for your typical API-compliant Resource Conserving product. The only Mobil product I'd expect cleaning from would be the FS 0W-40.
 
on top of that, i remember cars and engines that we killed them every-knight and day , long trips-short trips, track, and were as healthy as new. i miss these old engines..now i can even think of leaving home because i am afraid what/how many engine lights will show up.
sludge was an unknown word then.400.000-500.000 km no worries ! no sludge!
todays engines are like a little crying babies.they always need more attention and when they grow up, puberty comes and they want, money ,more money to spend on them!
My 1996 Civic is agreed 😉
 

found this:​

" What is causing the failures?​

This is not down to a design problem, or a mechanical problem with the engine as such but more down to “long-life” servicing which can lead to oil changes occurring every 20,000 miles.
Combine this type of servicing with cars which have missed a service, gone overdue on a service, or even gone to a non-specialist garage where an incorrect oil grade is used during the service, and the result can be catastrophic.

The problem is the engine oil. Engine oil is not only designed to lubricate moving parts it is also used to control temperatures inside the engine, for example by cooling pistons, but also to absorb carbon. Carbon is by-product of combustion and occurs both in petrol and diesel engines.

As soon as you put new oil into an engine it is absorbing carbon from the moment you start the engine, when the oil is new this is not a problem the carbon is absorbed effectively and the car operates as normal. When the engine oil is “used” and has maybe done 10,000 miles + it becomes less effective, when the oil has done 15,000 + miles the oil can no longer absorb the carbon as it should and it starts to solidify or “sludge up” / “coke up” .This sludge then sticks to important engine components and can begin to block oil galleries and oil pumps.

Once oil pumps, and galleries begin to block up, key components begin to get starved of oil, this can quickely lead to permanent damage and failure, often resulting in expensive repairs.

Although we have not have engine seizures with these models we have experienced problems with the Variable camshaft timing ( know as VANOS ) Variable Valve Lift ( Valvetronic ) and the timing chains – all of which can be attributed to poor oil quality or coking up ( Where the oil has begun to turn to sludge ) "

About 10 years ago BMW reduced the OCI to lesser of 1 yr or 10,000 miles in the United States. I've seen very few issues with VANOS solenoids but timing chains problems (N20, N47) required a major redesign and extended warranty. Valvetronic motor failures and/or excessive wear on the eccentric shaft seem to be the most common issues which might be oil interval related.
 
About 10 years ago BMW reduced the OCI to lesser of 1 yr or 10,000 miles in the United States. I've seen very few issues with VANOS solenoids but timing chains problems (N20, N47) required a major redesign and extended warranty. Valvetronic motor failures and/or excessive wear on the eccentric shaft seem to be the most common issues which might be oil interval related.
about timing chain ,is a mystery with bmw. but most problems started with models from 2004 and then where bmw suggested longlife change intervals,that was 40.000 km/2 years.now its reduced to 25.000 or 2 years which is still tooo long! some owners followed that marketing instruction. now in a bmw uk forum there were some owners , mostly diesel ones ,with timing chains problems. it broke suddenly.they did't tell them what caused it but all of them had long oil intervals.they were asked by us and confirm that.so who knows? was it just a design problem or/and an oil interval related?
 
If so, it is very limited due to base oil selection for your typical API-compliant Resource Conserving product. The only Mobil product I'd expect cleaning from would be the FS 0W-40.
What about M1 High Mileage Synthetic oils ? Some say they have had good success running a couple of short 3,000 mile OCI's to clean up an engine due to extra detergents added in M1 High Mileage oils .
 
What about M1 High Mileage Synthetic oils ? Some say they have had good success running a couple of short 3,000 mile OCI's to clean up an engine due to extra detergents added in M1 High Mileage oils .
It's not the detergents that provide cleaning, it's polar or high solvency base oils like AN's and esters. You need extra detergents/dispersants to deal with stuff getting pulled into suspension by this combo, but that DI package doesn't really do any cleaning.
 
Here is a BMW S85 V10 that had 130k miles on it according to the 2nd owner in the comments. Dead to a bad tune, but this engine was probably filled with Castrol 10W-60 all its life and 5k OCI with the second owner. It's extremely clean. No need for magic stuff.

 
about timing chain ,is a mystery with bmw. but most problems started with models from 2004 and then where bmw suggested longlife change intervals,that was 40.000 km/2 years.now its reduced to 25.000 or 2 years which is still tooo long! some owners followed that marketing instruction. now in a bmw uk forum there were some owners , mostly diesel ones ,with timing chains problems. it broke suddenly.they did't tell them what caused it but all of them had long oil intervals.they were asked by us and confirm that.so who knows? was it just a design problem or/and an oil interval related?
It's probably a design issue. The timing chains don't seem to fail on the petrol I6.
 
Here’s my 15 Tacoma 4.0L with 125Know. Mostly M1 EP and Amsoil XL 5W30 six months 6000-7000. Two runs with SS 0W30 10K intervals. My wife’s 19 Pilot has 51K and I follow the olm on that. Her Pilot gets Amsoil as well. lNo pictures yet.
 

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