I usually run 5W30 non - extended performance 5W30 synthetic oils (Valvoline Advanced , Quaker State Full Synthetic, etc. ) in my '17 Sonata GDI 2.4L non - turbo engine along with a Fram Ultra oil filter. My OCI's accordingly have been 4K ~ 5K miles / 6 months max . In the same vehicle I thought I would try the M1 5W30 D1 / Gen 3 EP synthetic oil for 7.5K miles / 12 months (whichever comes first) and see how well the GDI engine plus the M1 5W30 EP play together? *Although the M1 5W30 EP oil + Fram oil filter are rated up to 20K miles , I would never attempt such mileage in a Hyundai GDI engine due to soot and possible fuel dilution this engine produces . With 7.5K miles / 12 months as the new test OCI in the aforementioned Sonata with the M1 EP oil I will get a UOA to be sure , but the 7.5K mile / 12-month OCI using M1 EP oil should be a safe OCI in mixed, typical driving conditions ... Your thoughts and experiences ?
M1 5W30 EP D1 / Gen 3 Users ?
- Thread starter ChrisD46
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Triple_Se7en
$50 Site Donor 2024
Don't go that long mileage route. I consider 4-5k too long with a HyunKia four cylinder Theta 2 engine.
Change every 3-3.5k and leave your +filter on for two OCIs (6-7k).
I change ours every 3k and I'm using +oils like Amsoil, Mobil-1 EP, Castrol EP, Valvoline EP, Pennzoil Ultra Platinum.......etc.
What's most important here (besides keeping the engine innards clean), is making sure that Dipstick oil level is always at the full-mark.
Change every 3-3.5k and leave your +filter on for two OCIs (6-7k).
I change ours every 3k and I'm using +oils like Amsoil, Mobil-1 EP, Castrol EP, Valvoline EP, Pennzoil Ultra Platinum.......etc.
What's most important here (besides keeping the engine innards clean), is making sure that Dipstick oil level is always at the full-mark.
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When I owned a GDI, I tended to keep my intervals closer to 5,000 miles than anything else (sometimes a little less). I could smell gas in the oil when I drained it, or even just on the dipstick. I immediately had some issues with oil consumption as well. So, for me I’d keep the intervals on the shorter side.
I have since gone back to a port inject engine, and it’s a totally different experience, and I now actually have started extending my intervals to 10,000 miles plus. Zero consumption, zero smell of fuel. I’m nit saying GDI is “bad”, I’m saying I wouldn’t extend the OCI.
I have since gone back to a port inject engine, and it’s a totally different experience, and I now actually have started extending my intervals to 10,000 miles plus. Zero consumption, zero smell of fuel. I’m nit saying GDI is “bad”, I’m saying I wouldn’t extend the OCI.
When we had our 2013 KIA Optima 2.4, I changed the oil and filter every 5,000 miles. I didn’t use extended performance oils. The primary oils were Motorcraft 5W30 Blend, Quaker State Synthetic 5W30, or Havoline Pro DS 5W30. The oil filters used were either Hyundai/KIA or NAPA Gold. We traded at 63,000 miles and never had a problem with the engine.
Like above-keep your intervals short, EP is probably a waste of money here, need a lower end, less expensive synthetic, 4K OCIs or less. Super Tech full syn or Kirkland (if you're a Cosctco member) would be good.
Hyundai Canada's oci requirement is 3750 miles/6000 kms.
If it were my Sonata, I would stick to this, changing oil and filter, with whatever name brand syn 5W-30 is on sale.
And using an OE filter.
If it were my Sonata, I would stick to this, changing oil and filter, with whatever name brand syn 5W-30 is on sale.
And using an OE filter.
The owners manual on our 2013 Optima stated 3,750 for severe service and 7,500 for normal service. I kept it simple and in the middle at 5,000. The WIX/NAPA Gold are of identical construction as the OE filters. They are stamped Mann+Hummel Korea.
The above replies have been my normal Hyundai GDI operating procedure . I have "normal" Hyundai GDI oil consumption (about 1.5 qrts. every 2,000 miles) . I'll just keep an eye on things as I cross 5K miles on the new fill Mobil 1 5W30 EP (which will finish it's OCI probably falling out of grade as a 5W20 ... How Hyundai EVER recommended the 2.4L Theta II to use 5W20 is beyond me ?)
Stick with a 30 since you have GDI. However, If you'd like to extend mileage you may need to test a couple times. This is mainly to monitor fuel dilution. Since your replacing 1.5 qts. every 2k I think you're on the safe side & could extend to your 7.5k. Test at 5k then if good then at 7.5k. Go from there.
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Sell the car, make it someone else's problem, and roll the remaining equity (if you can call it that) into something more reliable long term.
Maybe one day people will realize that buying korean cars is just asking for issues. I mean, the engine's blow up anywhere between 0 and 100k miles and its not even a question, its more of a manufacturer guarantee now since the warranty has to extend to 100k miles.
Maybe one day people will realize that buying korean cars is just asking for issues. I mean, the engine's blow up anywhere between 0 and 100k miles and its not even a question, its more of a manufacturer guarantee now since the warranty has to extend to 100k miles.
Have you done any UOA's in the past to get an idea of how oil does in this engine? If you're adding 1.5qts every 2k miles I don't see why you can't stretch the EP to 7,500.
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Or a 40-grade.
Only one UOA to check a worse case scenario using QSUD 5W20 SM D1 /Gen 2 oil . At 4K miles of mixed driving the oil was pretty well done in this 2.4L DI engine . I have since moved up to 5W30 in SP D1/Gen 3 oils and with the M1 5W30 EP and Fram Ultra oil filter , I’m hoping to just change oil twice per year in this vehicle . This vehicle will be driven 30% to 40% less than before (no longer driving to work) , so I will probably hit 6 months mark first before 7,500 miles .
Triple_Se7en
$50 Site Donor 2024
10w30 (in your Signature) is a good choice year-round for that 2.4GDI and your hometown Georgia.
Keep the OCIs 3-4k. That engine starts beating up oil at 3k. You may have noticed that little or no consumption for 3k - then 1-1/2 quarts consumed in the next 2k.
Hundreds of other members at the Hyundai and Kia forums express similar consumption issues, as OCI mileage increases. Some say the consumption starts at 2k. But usually those vehicles have miles racked-up in the 75-80k range,
MOA brand rings cleaner is also recommended. That may cut your consumption in half. One of the MOA is for cleaning. Another is for maintenance. You can buy both in one two-pack at Amazon. Use strictly as directed to get best results.
I have the 3.3L GDI, and while the consumption is not as bad, I also see it starts at around 3K miles (not to mention the oil gets dark fairly quickly and almost always smells like gasoline). I'm planning to start slowly easing into HPL (starting with EC then a mix of HPL 5W-40 with M1 5W-30, before moving to a 50/50 mix of HPL 5W-30/5W-40 for a couple of OCIs) and hoping things get better.
My 2018 Sonata 2.4 Theta II doesn’t burn any oil during an OCI. Currently at 52,000 miles, I change the oil every 5K miles. I switch between 5W-20 and 5W-30. I always use Full Synthetic and have used everything from Pennzoil, Havoline, Quaker State, and Valvoline. Oil filters I always use the Fram 9688 product line. Mostly Fram Extra Guard filters, currently has a Fram Ultra installed. The only time it “used” some oil was in 2021 around 25,000 miles when I used Pennzoil Platinum 5W-30. FWIW, I’ve used Pennzoil Platinum 5W-30 in others vehicles and they exhibited some oil usage too. Pennzoil Platinum 5W-30 is too thin for a 30 grade oil IMO. Their 5W-20 works fine. I dump a bottle of Techron or Gumout into the tank maybe once every 10k-15k miles, if I even remember to.
That’s it, I don’t do anything special and it runs just like new. I’m aware of all the issues these engines are known for, but I won’t let that stop me from enjoying the car. Knock on wood.
That’s it, I don’t do anything special and it runs just like new. I’m aware of all the issues these engines are known for, but I won’t let that stop me from enjoying the car. Knock on wood.
I agree that more recent H/K vehicles have had more than their fair share of engine issues but that hasn't always been the case. I've owned several Hyundais and can attest that my 2008 Elantra (sold in last year at approx. 150K and still running well as of today) and my inlaws 2008 Sonata 2.4 (bought with 58K in summer of 2020 for $4500 and now at 140K and still not burning more than a pint of oil in 6 to 7K OCIs) have excellent engines. The engine in my (purchased new) 1992 Sonata was the Mitsubishi designed 2.0 which was a very good engine but the Mitsu A/T crapped out in 2001 at 109K (while my father was driving it so IDK if he caused it) and it wasn't worth fixing. Something happened* to H/K engines of late and I won't touch another one until they get their act together.
*I've read about casting sand not being properly flushed out at the Alabama factory being the issue but you'd think they'd have figured that out already?
Currently trying Rislone added to oil for cleaning rings but will look at MOA for the future .