I’m talking about responses in this thread, specifically. You’ve ignored several.
Pennzoil Platinum used to be my favorite
- Thread starter ZZman
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I use PUP 0W-20 in my 2016 Honda 2.4 L and a Fram Ultra filter, and change both when the mm drops to 20%. That 4 banger is rated at 185 HP and though I never put it on a dino the seat of my pants tells me it is giving me every one of those 185 horses when I ask for them. I can climb up hills with more get-up-and-go than any vehicle I ever owned before when I put it in S mode. More than enough horsepower to roll it over if one would not get off the throttle some before you get to some of the turns while flying up hills. The engine runs smooth and very responsive for what it is. I plan on using PUP as long as I own this vehicle and have no plans of ever getting rid of it.
I did send out a used oil sample to Blackstone Labs The first time I drained PUP from my Honda and it came back very good In all areas of the analysis.
Btw, I calculate the number of gallons used before each fill up and multiply that by 4.45 to figure out how many milliliters of Redline SL1 to put in before filling up each time.
I use a 100 ml plastic graduated cylinder that I bought from McMaster-Carr to measure out the red line SL1 and put that in just before adding the gasoline each time. I also put a whole bottle of Redline SL1 in when it reached 30,000 miles. I plan on keeping the injectors very clean because I want it to run very well.
If you get into adding the red line SL1 and measuring it with a graduated cylinder be sure to store the graduated cylinder upside down in several plastic bags because Redline SL1 is so hydroscopic that what little residue there is left on the surface of the inside of the graduated cylinder will pull moisture right out of the air and it will condense and if you store it upright you'll have a few milliliters of water to pour out before using it the next time. And because Redline SL1 is a detergent that will dissolve many things it will eventually break down plastic bags also so I use several of them and discard the most recently used one that is actually against the cylinder.
Also it's not a bad idea to wear disposable gloves when handling Red Line SL1 because it seems to get on everything and is a little bit messy to deal with so instead of having to wash your hands just have disposable gloves on every time you work with it.
I did send out a used oil sample to Blackstone Labs The first time I drained PUP from my Honda and it came back very good In all areas of the analysis.
Btw, I calculate the number of gallons used before each fill up and multiply that by 4.45 to figure out how many milliliters of Redline SL1 to put in before filling up each time.
I use a 100 ml plastic graduated cylinder that I bought from McMaster-Carr to measure out the red line SL1 and put that in just before adding the gasoline each time. I also put a whole bottle of Redline SL1 in when it reached 30,000 miles. I plan on keeping the injectors very clean because I want it to run very well.
If you get into adding the red line SL1 and measuring it with a graduated cylinder be sure to store the graduated cylinder upside down in several plastic bags because Redline SL1 is so hydroscopic that what little residue there is left on the surface of the inside of the graduated cylinder will pull moisture right out of the air and it will condense and if you store it upright you'll have a few milliliters of water to pour out before using it the next time. And because Redline SL1 is a detergent that will dissolve many things it will eventually break down plastic bags also so I use several of them and discard the most recently used one that is actually against the cylinder.
Also it's not a bad idea to wear disposable gloves when handling Red Line SL1 because it seems to get on everything and is a little bit messy to deal with so instead of having to wash your hands just have disposable gloves on every time you work with it.
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But how do they do in Project Farm's testing? Just kidding...everyone calm down....
But isn't it hard to correlate the oil analysis to actual additive package performance etc....can't just look at the raw numbers and infer "better/worse"?
There are 4 V.O.A.s from BLACKSTONE for the S.P. , GF-6A rated 5w-30 PENNZOIL synthetics and synthetic blend in the latest video of 6/19/22 . He knows to shake the bottles before sending out samples . The V.O.A.s from Blackstone are at 7:14 in the 10:22 video . Find it helpful .
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SubieRubyRoo: I enjoyed all the replies to this thread. Always good hearing from you, buster, especially 4WD, and IVERKILL and JHZR2 and Astro14.
I personally have no name brand preference; I go by best value IMO and what works.
I personally have no name brand preference; I go by best value IMO and what works.
The one that's my favorite is the one on sale with a rebate if possible.
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Pennzoil may have watered down their add pack but they haven’t changEd their engine warranty. Trust SOPUS they know what they doing
...and herein lies the issue...
How does one define what works? I mean in a comparison? Motor oil?
There's evidence out there of what sucks, there's evidence out there of what doesn't.
Then we have a guy with a properly built 383 in a C4 'Vette that's getting singed for advocating a Mobil 1 filter.
At what point is this whole thing over the top?
If we’re talking about a mass-produced engine that’s original, the starting point is always the mfr specification, since they did oodles of testing to keep their warranty costs manageable. Once out of warranty or if one has faith there are no inherent mechanical shortcomings in their engine, based on what I’ve learned here, I would look for an ACEA oil that fits the intended application or even better one of the Porsche certifications; digging deeper into the less-available info, I would seek out an oil with low VII and Noack, combined with PAO, POE, ANs and trimer moly.
There’s a small handful of shelf oils that meet these criteria, and several “boutique” oils that do as well. While I have personal favorites, it doesn’t really bother me what someone else uses; I applaud people who do their own research and base decisions on facts.
If you want to make fun of overkill oil for an unworthy engine, I just poured in 5qts of the original Castrol A3/B4 0w-40 in my 173HP(
) Impreza with 184k miles. It was originally purchased for my 3.5EB, but now that I’ve found HPL No VII Euro, that’s all that’s going in the truck, ever.In this case I’d ask what the engine builder called for; if no specific filter was mentioned, OP is justified in using whatever he wants. There’s plenty of C&Ps on BITOG of nearly all brands and models, so if owner makes a poor choice, well, our duty as the supporting community was satisfied with clean hands IMO.
If the owner in question has enough money to buy a car with a Lingenfelter engine, odds are he has enough money to have Lingenfelter repair said engine!
Yea that’s why they will do 200-300k after a head gasket changeIf we’re talking about a mass-produced engine that’s original, the starting point is always the mfr specification, since they did oodles of testing to keep their warranty costs manageable. Once out of warranty or if one has faith there are no inherent mechanical shortcomings in their engine, based on what I’ve learned here, I would look for an ACEA oil that fits the intended application or even better one of the Porsche certifications; digging deeper into the less-available info, I would seek out an oil with low VII and Noack, combined with PAO, POE, ANs and trimer moly.
There’s a small handful of shelf oils that meet these criteria, and several “boutique” oils that do as well. While I have personal favorites, it doesn’t really bother me what someone else uses; I applaud people who do their own research and base decisions on facts.
If you want to make fun of overkill oil for an unworthy engine, I just poured in 5qts of the original Castrol A3/B4 0w-40 in my 173HP(
In this case I’d ask what the engine builder called for; if no specific filter was mentioned, OP is justified in using whatever he wants. There’s plenty of C&Ps on BITOG of nearly all brands and models, so if owner makes a poor choice, well, our duty as the supporting community was satisfied with clean hands IMO.
If the owner in question has enough money to buy a car with a Lingenfelter engine, odds are he has enough money to have Lingenfelter repair said engine!
I vividly remember when every other thread was about German Castrol and Auto-Rx
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I just had a pretty solid UOA for Pennzoil Platinum 5w30. Most importantly, it kept its viscosity and did not shear down to 5w20, unlike the STP full synthetic I used last time.
2005 Buick LaCrosse CXL, 3800 Series III, Pennzoil Platinum 5w30, 3921 miles
Here is the most recent UOA for my 2005 Buick LaCrosse. Good report! I'm happy that the Pennzoil 5w30 did not shear down to a 5w20, unlike the last oil I ran, which was STP full synthetic. The silicon is out of the system too and no evidence of coolant. Link to previous analysis...
bobistheoilguy.com
I’ve exclusively used PP in our 3 cars…. And all the friends and family’s I’ve serviced, for years. I’ve not done any UOA, but learned with the turbo motors by sound that going up a grade is good.
my only comparison is this. Based on this site, I’d be eyeing M1 last year. Walmart had a sale which brought m1 down to PP prices and I bought a dozen jugs. M1 went in to every vehicle, and *all* of them have been quieter, and *all* of them have consumed more oil during the oci than PP. not sure what to make of that. Two smelled of hot oil leak for the first time ever, as well, for 6 weeks or so, then stopped. I’m not sure if the cars handled the chemistry change gracefully.
thoughts?
my only comparison is this. Based on this site, I’d be eyeing M1 last year. Walmart had a sale which brought m1 down to PP prices and I bought a dozen jugs. M1 went in to every vehicle, and *all* of them have been quieter, and *all* of them have consumed more oil during the oci than PP. not sure what to make of that. Two smelled of hot oil leak for the first time ever, as well, for 6 weeks or so, then stopped. I’m not sure if the cars handled the chemistry change gracefully.
thoughts?
The oil consumption will probably revert to normal over time.
The add pack is what you call weaker because when you start with a better base oil as PP has it's not necessary as when you have a lower quality base oil.
4WD
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VOA is a baseline for a future UOA - and not much else.
OVERKILL
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That's not accurate. Group III is Group III, having a higher VI and being produced from methane doesn't give it magical properties. The reality is that, per what @4WD noted, a VOA is limited to showing you metallic additives and does not show you actual compounds or organics.
Within the constraints of the limits imposed by the API, trying to gauge relative performance based on VOA values is like read tea leaves.
Lake Speed recently tested these oils and came to the conclusion that the GTL base oil is clean enough that they use less detergent to reduce deposits. Interesting theory that I hadn't considered before. I too was disappointed in my UOA add pack and low viscosity but if Lake Speed thinks they have a good product it makes me willing to try it again.
Nice chart
Several years ago with they came out with PP it was all the rage here and I used it a lot in my vehicles since. I found when they switched to the Pure Plus formulation that consumption had significantly increased and found that others had experienced the same issues after the change but then there were others that didn't notice a change.
For my next change I'm going to use their Euro it's KV is a bit higher and very close to a straight 30w.
For my next change I'm going to use their Euro it's KV is a bit higher and very close to a straight 30w.
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I will die on this hill that Mobil 1 has some type of seal incompatibility issue that other oils don't. I've had the same issue.
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