Oh well BRAKE story

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I was talking about this guy
81EZWDF-odL._SL1500_.jpg

http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-29200-Hand-Impact-Tool/dp/B0002NYDRG
3/8" drive with 3/8" drive bit holder
 
I know, they are not very effective on rusted bolts but a must have for stuff like door striker bolts that use PH, Torx or Allen heads. They have the square drive so you can use impact sockets of those types.
Good tool to own, it has its place in every box just not for this job. A real air impact would blast them right out in seconds.
 
Originally Posted By: Kira
Oh yes, we put anti-seize on darn near everything.

The "white stuff" I failed to identify in my OP was a thread lock compound (I think) and that's what made me think of applying heat.

I got replacement Grade 8.8 (what NAPA Ticonderoga had) bolts and they screwed right in.

That top one wouldn't back out through the non-threaded hole BLEW my mind.

The rear rubber bushing in the control arm was dry and crispy (to the point of looking like the gills of a mushrooms cap) as well. Kira


I really doubt the original bolts were 8.8. I'd expect 10.9
 
Hello all, Happy news from the North Country. The parts from RockAuto arrived Wednesday.

RR (the frozen caliper) had freed itself a bit with 3 or 4 miles of driving but works perfectly now because it has been replaced.

RF (with the dust boot I melted) came with bracket and the new bolts came out and back in with ease.

Both came with new banjo bolt washers and bleeding the brakes went smoothly. There was father and son communion time.

I'm certain the son, who hadn't heard the term "core charge" before this, got the oldies off to the post office straight away.

Onto the next battle. Cheers
 
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