Caliper piston chrome corrosion

I'd think silicone alone would melt if the brakes got hot. I go with,

71SMQQkbnML._AC_SL1500_.jpg


It has silicone blended with ceramic for high temperatures. A bit pricey but how often do you use it.
That stuff is garbage! I purchased some thinking I was using the best available but guess what? It dries out and flakes off in chunks. Every brake job I did ended up like this....I was very dissapointed in this product and also it is NOT rubber compatible. I have gone back to my previous lube that never gave trouble - the black CRC lube that holds up and is rubber safe.
 
Anything that puts a barrier between the metal and air around it will help prevent corrosion.

I’m actually a bit surprised how well the OE applied (I’m assuming it is) M-77 lasted between the shims.

10 years and almost 100k.

IMG_4201.jpeg

Even this baked blob!

IMG_4202.jpeg
 
That stuff is garbage! I purchased some thinking I was using the best available but guess what? It dries out and flakes off in chunks. Every brake job I did ended up like this....I was very dissapointed in this product and also it is NOT rubber compatible. I have gone back to my previous lube that never gave trouble - the black CRC lube that holds up and is rubber safe.
Been using it for years without any issues. And it says on the tech sheet, "100% compatible with internal/external brake rubber and plastic hardware"
 
Just don't use Sta-lube, I think that is what it was. I used that once and it squealed like a pig. Luckily it washed off in a couple of months. I wasn't using any grease on the shims before, and I sure stopped after that--they go in dry now. No noise.

I will use M77 on the shims on the caliper bracket though, those sliding surfaces, although it does wash off after a year. Want those to slide nicely, and if the pads are real tight, file to fit is required (I file the bracket best I can but still often have some level of interference).

Anyhow. It could always be worse. I just finished doing the rear brakes on our 2003 CRV, I did a pad slap a couple years ago but neglected to do my yearly pad relube in the spring last year, so they siezed and wore the pads prematurely. I think the pads were 2yr/20k? something like that, while the rotors may be OEM or 9yr/65k (don't have all records). I thought the rotors were getting a bit grooved so I replaced them, and the dust shields fell off in the process.
1707703334242.jpg

They were just starting to make noise... sat too much I guess, rotors can age out, who knew.

And you're worried about a bit of surface rust... call me when stuff starts falling off. I think I might start hosing down the dust shield with RP342, next time I can get in there, maybe next time I can ward this off? well, not on this vehicle, and not the ones with drums, but anything that doesn't have a drum, which the rotor can get out of the way, I should be able to apply something to slow this kind of rusting down. I think...
1707703906645.jpg
 
Just don't use Sta-lube, I think that is what it was. I used that once and it squealed like a pig. Luckily it washed off in a couple of months. I wasn't using any grease on the shims before, and I sure stopped after that--they go in dry now. No noise.

I will use M77 on the shims on the caliper bracket though, those sliding surfaces, although it does wash off after a year. Want those to slide nicely, and if the pads are real tight, file to fit is required (I file the bracket best I can but still often have some level of interference).

Anyhow. It could always be worse. I just finished doing the rear brakes on our 2003 CRV, I did a pad slap a couple years ago but neglected to do my yearly pad relube in the spring last year, so they siezed and wore the pads prematurely. I think the pads were 2yr/20k? something like that, while the rotors may be OEM or 9yr/65k (don't have all records). I thought the rotors were getting a bit grooved so I replaced them, and the dust shields fell off in the process.
View attachment 203076
They were just starting to make noise... sat too much I guess, rotors can age out, who knew.

And you're worried about a bit of surface rust... call me when stuff starts falling off. I think I might start hosing down the dust shield with RP342, next time I can get in there, maybe next time I can ward this off? well, not on this vehicle, and not the ones with drums, but anything that doesn't have a drum, which the rotor can get out of the way, I should be able to apply something to slow this kind of rusting down. I think...
View attachment 203080
Wow those rotors are something else. Considering that ours are barely worn from new OE specs at 100k. Those pads had something way wrong with how they were worn down too. Do your roads get sanded in the winter and maybe sand gets embedded in the pads?!?

The rust in the drums I get. I’m not a fan of drums because they never seem to work perfect. At least any I’ve encountered.
 
Wow those rotors are something else. Considering that ours are barely worn from new OE specs at 100k. Those pads had something way wrong with how they were worn down too. Do your roads get sanded in the winter and maybe sand gets embedded in the pads?!?
Good question. Yes, some amount of sand. My son does drive it once a week on a dirt road, only a couple of miles each time though.

I usually get 100k or more from brakes, but they do look like records at that point.
 
Been using it for years without any issues. And it says on the tech sheet, "100% compatible with internal/external brake rubber and plastic hardware"
I respect and value your opinion on here so maybe I got a bad/old bottle? I was very disappointed in that the lube on jobs I saw months later including my own cars were dried up and crumbly and the rubber parts on the slide pins were swollen. Are we talking about the orange stuff? I did buy my bottle off RA but never checked the date.
 
Back
Top