NOOB compounding whole car ok?

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Im a bit of a noob when it comes to paint and compounding. (still learning)
and i bought a bottle of meguires ultimate compound and i was wondering if it is OK to use it all over the car? i was only planning on using it on the roof (due to oxidation and swirls) of my car but the results were very good and im wanting to use it all over the body (body is good, no oxidation just swirls) is it safe for the clear coat?

Basically will the product strip the clear coat or will be ok after using it? From what im reading about compounds, it is to be used on dull paint only and my body is not dull hence the question.

And Waxing the car after is a must right?

The car is a 01 audi a4 brilliant black.
 
This is what i used.
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_ultimate-compound-polish-(15-2-oz-)-meguiar's_7590023-p

Click here for product
 
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its fine to do so, but be careful since its black, hence swirlmarks, and if you do decide to do it, make sure you do wax after, but im highly stressing SWIRLMARKS
 
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As a NOOB I am going to assume that you are going to be hand compounding? If that's the case I wouldnt worry about ruining the clearcoat. To be honest, most OTC products are gentle enough to not cause "real" damage. Obviously there are exceptions to the rule but you should be find.

Good rule of thumb when doing paint correction is to go gentle then more agressive. I would give SwirlX a try first (that you can use on the whole car as well) and for the areas that need that extra umph you can use the compound. Also, good idea to use a wax after this to give your newly polished surface some shine and protection.
 
Actually im going to use a small 5 inch orbital. (well its my drill lol) It goes to 1200RPM
 
Originally Posted By: audia6
Actually im going to use a small 5 inch orbital. (well its my drill lol) It goes to 1200RPM

not to argue, but swirlmark city, on a dark color for sure
 
Originally Posted By: clarklawnscape
its fine to do so, but be careful since its black, hence swirlmarks, and if you do decide to do it, make sure you do wax after, but im highly stressing SWIRLMARKS


How can i get the swirls out or avoid it?
 
The last 01 Audi I detailed I had to break out my edge black wool cutting pad and my Makita rotary, a little (or a lot) of M105 and about 2000rpm on the Makita I finally started to get some results.

Darn Audi and their freaking rock hard clear, I can't imagine attempting to compound an Audi with a drill.
 
Originally Posted By: audia6
Originally Posted By: clarklawnscape
its fine to do so, but be careful since its black, hence swirlmarks, and if you do decide to do it, make sure you do wax after, but im highly stressing SWIRLMARKS


How can i get the swirls out or avoid it?


I'd have to agree with Clark. Anything rotary styled should be used by the pros. It takes a lot of practice to get good at it. A dual action polisher and a foam pad is really the only way for a NOOB to safely remove swirls. You are better off buying the cheaper orbitals and using that. It wont be great but a typical DA runs you around $175

I would stick to hand polishing. Will be a @%$*( but it will be a lot safer
 
Originally Posted By: audia6
Originally Posted By: clarklawnscape
its fine to do so, but be careful since its black, hence swirlmarks, and if you do decide to do it, make sure you do wax after, but im highly stressing SWIRLMARKS


How can i get the swirls out or avoid it?

use a random orbit polisher, or better yet, buy a dual action (DA) sander and get a polishing pad for it. otherwise use your hand, and a back and forth motion if you choose this, youd better pack your lunch
 
That is a good product.

Your drill method is horrible.

You can use ultimate by hand and I think you'll be happy with the results if you take the time to do it right. You'll have popeye arms but I bet you could do a noticeable job in an hour or two. I did the hood of our Highlander in half an hour tops.
 
personally, id wet sand the area w 2000 grit sand paper in back and forth motions, then compound by hand in the oppisite motion, then clay bar, then wax, this should do a good job and produce minimal swirl marks. just dont sand too much
 
Originally Posted By: gary031
The last 01 Audi I detailed I had to break out my edge black wool cutting pad and my Makita rotary, a little (or a lot) of M105 and about 2000rpm on the Makita I finally started to get some results.

Darn Audi and their freaking rock hard clear, I can't imagine attempting to compound an Audi with a drill.


Ain't that the truth!!!

I did a black S6 Avant last year. Took me 9 hours to compound on side of the car with M105. I think we had 40+ man hours in that thing. Worst paint I've ever worked on in terms of hardness.
 
Originally Posted By: bretfraz
Originally Posted By: gary031
The last 01 Audi I detailed I had to break out my edge black wool cutting pad and my Makita rotary, a little (or a lot) of M105 and about 2000rpm on the Makita I finally started to get some results.

Darn Audi and their freaking rock hard clear, I can't imagine attempting to compound an Audi with a drill.


Ain't that the truth!!!

I did a black S6 Avant last year. Took me 9 hours to compound on side of the car with M105. I think we had 40+ man hours in that thing. Worst paint I've ever worked on in terms of hardness.

Yep, been there done that, can you imagine trying to get any results at all by hand working on an Audi, no thanks. I'm guessing the people that think this guy can somehow get any results by hand, which is hard enough on soft clear, have never worked on wicked hard Audi clear. It's a nightmare.
 
I am a NOOB when it comes to detailing....been waxing cars for 40+ years (since my Dad used to pay me to wash/wax).

So, I bought a Griot's Garage DA (random orbital) buffer about a year ago - it work great. I've done the Corolla, Volvos and the '92 MB. The '92 MB is black, and I've done it a couple of times...it looks GREAT when I am done. No swirl marks, paint is deep and black with the fade gone. I use the machine polish no. 3.

Do yourself, and your car, a favor - spend the few $$ on some quality tools to do this...I have done it by hand - there is no comparison...
 
Originally Posted By: clarklawnscape
personally, id wet sand the area w 2000 grit sand paper in back and forth motions, then compound by hand in the oppisite motion, then clay bar, then wax, this should do a good job and produce minimal swirl marks. just dont sand too much

Bad, bad advice. There's no way he's going to be able to remove sand marks with the equipment he has. Plus, without a paint depth gauge, how does he know how much clear he has to work with?
 
A noobie asks advice on using consumer grade Ultimate Compound and somebody tells him to wet sand the paint with 2000 paper. Where is that sign showing a full dope slap???

noobie, at this stage, don't let a sandpaper come within 100 feet of your car!
 
Originally Posted By: Vikas
A noobie asks advice on using consumer grade Ultimate Compound and somebody tells him to wet sand the paint with 2000 paper. Where is that sign showing a full dope slap???

noobie, at this stage, don't let a sandpaper come within 100 feet of your car!


+ 1,000 I say use the compound and hand rub (not the drill bit buffer) on the bad areas and give the whole car a quick polish with SwirlX. Until you buy a DA buffer (Porter Cable makes a good one, Griots as well) I would stick to hand application.
 
Nothing wrong with using Ultimate Compound on the entire car (including the glass, if you wish, which is what I do annually).

Doing it with a drill, no way. Pick up a DA polisher and some pads or do it by hand.

Don't use compound too often - you only have so much clear coat. I've read conflicting arguments and debates over how many times is too much (some say somewhere around 25 or less). Only a paint depth gauge will know for certain.

Here is an old thread:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2373479

I've since switched to using (mostly) Menzerna polishes.
 
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