mobil 1 and mobil 1 ep difference
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I think there is more to the EP than just the "Extended Drain Interval" aspect of it. I think the chemistry itself is totally different. When I emailed Mobil about the EP for my Modified Lancer Evolution, and that I was changing the EP oil every 3K miles, they responded by saying that was a good idea, and the Oil will hold up well in my application due to added friction fighters, more SuperSyn, and more cleaning agents. Extended Drain Intervals in High Performance Vehicles is not a good idea in my book. These type of cars just beat the [censored] out of oil. I still think that "supersyn" is just Group 5 basestocks. No one will ever really know. haha.
Originally Posted By: FastSUV
The proper way to handle the LSD gear oils is to not use the Mopar Friction Modifier unless you get chatter...then if you do, only add it in small increments until it is working as it should. Say maybe 1oz increments or maybe even up to HALF the recommended amount when adding to RP or M1 gear oils that are already formulated for LSD but you still are experiencing chatter...but MOST will say (at least with RP brand), that you rarely have an issue to where the Mopar stuff is required...Again, I am not against adding it, but you just do not want TOO MUCH LSD additive and you must assume that when using a gear oil that already has it, why would you need the FULL amount.
Totally OT, but since the original topic has been kinda beaten to death any (BTW, the answer is "no one who actually knows is willing to say"), Mobil make a synthetic gear oil without the LS additive: http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/P...90_80W-140.aspx
Maybe adding to this stuff would be a safer bet?
The proper way to handle the LSD gear oils is to not use the Mopar Friction Modifier unless you get chatter...then if you do, only add it in small increments until it is working as it should. Say maybe 1oz increments or maybe even up to HALF the recommended amount when adding to RP or M1 gear oils that are already formulated for LSD but you still are experiencing chatter...but MOST will say (at least with RP brand), that you rarely have an issue to where the Mopar stuff is required...Again, I am not against adding it, but you just do not want TOO MUCH LSD additive and you must assume that when using a gear oil that already has it, why would you need the FULL amount.
Totally OT, but since the original topic has been kinda beaten to death any (BTW, the answer is "no one who actually knows is willing to say"), Mobil make a synthetic gear oil without the LS additive: http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/P...90_80W-140.aspx
Maybe adding to this stuff would be a safer bet?
I have tried Mobil AFE 0W-30 in both my present vehicles and switched to Mobil EP since I plan to do a yearly OCI and am very happy with the product. It is extremely smooth and the EP didn't cause any valvetrain clatter like the AFE 0W-30 did. My brother also switched from the normal synthetic Mobil to the EP formula and us always praising how smooth his car still feels after several thousand miles. I pay like $3.00 more to get EP and it is worth it to me.
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I get my M1 EP at walmart in the 5qt jug. The Standard M1 is $24.00, while the EP is $28.00. That is LESS than $1.00 difference. So the choice is simple for me. EP all the way!!
AAP has mobil 1 deals for this week. Do you think ep is worth the extra money or no?
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Originally Posted By: engineer20
AAP has mobil 1 deals for this week. Do you think ep is worth the extra money or no?
It would be worth it if you are going to use it long enough--i.e. 15K. If you are going less than 10K on an OCI, then use M1 or M1 AFE. Of course, if EP is the same price as regular M1 or AFE, then the point is moot.
AAP has mobil 1 deals for this week. Do you think ep is worth the extra money or no?
It would be worth it if you are going to use it long enough--i.e. 15K. If you are going less than 10K on an OCI, then use M1 or M1 AFE. Of course, if EP is the same price as regular M1 or AFE, then the point is moot.
Originally Posted By: engineer20
AAP has mobil 1 deals for this week. Do you think ep is worth the extra money or no?
I'd give EP a shot if I could find it in 0W20 around here. For now I'm sticking with AFE.
AAP has mobil 1 deals for this week. Do you think ep is worth the extra money or no?
I'd give EP a shot if I could find it in 0W20 around here. For now I'm sticking with AFE.
Originally Posted By: engineer20
AAP has mobil 1 deals for this week. Do you think ep is worth the extra money or no?
If one is doing a long enough OCI and wants to be completely sure the oil will endure the long OCI, then I guess it would be worth it. I have never used Mobil 1 EP before.
By the way, I don't think I have seen any posts by you on here for a while, so
back.
AAP has mobil 1 deals for this week. Do you think ep is worth the extra money or no?
If one is doing a long enough OCI and wants to be completely sure the oil will endure the long OCI, then I guess it would be worth it. I have never used Mobil 1 EP before.
By the way, I don't think I have seen any posts by you on here for a while, so
Mobil one EP has only a TBN of a little over 7 to start with.. Any chance that may well be exhausted before 15k miles? ? I would wonder about that part of the equatio . Castrol w\ titanium has a TBN of 10.1 to start with and Amsoil is over 12. It would appear to me that those two give a lot more of a buffer in regards to very long intervals. Mobil one has very good products top to bottom. From conventional to their synthetics. But their "extended performance" oil is really not impressive at least on a chemistry level to start with. Their regular full synthetic has better chemistry right out of the bottle than the EP version. TBN over 9.. Strange to me. . but again all the rest of their products are very strong.
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LOL! You don't think they know what the TBN/retention is of their own oil? Bigger must be better, right? TBN retention is not linear. The M1 might start lower than your other favorites but might very well hold it longer.
Originally Posted By: bbhero
Mobil one EP has only a TBN of a little over 7 to start with.. Any chance that may well be exhausted before 15k miles? ?
Originally Posted By: bbhero
Mobil one EP has only a TBN of a little over 7 to start with.. Any chance that may well be exhausted before 15k miles? ?
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Originally Posted By: bbhero
Mobil one EP has only a TBN of a little over 7 to start with..
Where do you find that information? A VOA of M1EP 5W-30 shows the starting TBN above 9.0 Another VOA of M1 AFE shows it to be nearly 9 and I ran it for over 15K not once, but twice, and you can see the TBN is still above 2.x. If the Amsoil that you note that has a TBN of above 12 is SSO, that is a 25K oil so hopefully these items help put the TBN into perspective.
Mobil one EP has only a TBN of a little over 7 to start with..
Where do you find that information? A VOA of M1EP 5W-30 shows the starting TBN above 9.0 Another VOA of M1 AFE shows it to be nearly 9 and I ran it for over 15K not once, but twice, and you can see the TBN is still above 2.x. If the Amsoil that you note that has a TBN of above 12 is SSO, that is a 25K oil so hopefully these items help put the TBN into perspective.
There is this one fella who has an exhaustive test and research.. 540rat.. This individual did a ton of testing on over 145 plus types of oil. The Mobil one he sent to an independent lab showed the EP has a TBN in the low 7s.. Amsoil can be found on the petroleum quality institute of America site. Anyone who runs these companies can put almost whatever they want on a bottle to sell it. Point 2.. You had the good sense to test the product which is very smart. If I were to attempt running a product that long I would have sent off a sample at 7500 and 10k miles to check how things were looking. Again, I don't blindly trust what some corporations advertised on their products. And like I said... Mobil one does a very good job with making darn good products top to bottom. It just seemed strange about the base number being lower than one would have expected on the EP. I am glad your results were good
and yes, I just learned something new because of your results and info sharing. That is always a good deal too.
Originally Posted By: bbhero
There is this one fella who has an exhaustive test and research.. 540rat.. This individual did a ton of testing on over 145 plus types of oil. The Mobil one he sent to an independent lab showed the EP has a TBN in the low 7s.. Amsoil can be found on the petroleum quality institute of America site. Anyone who runs these companies can put almost whatever they want on a bottle to sell it. Point 2.. You had the good sense to test the product which is very smart. If I were to attempt running a product that long I would have sent off a sample at 7500 and 10k miles to check how things were looking. Again, I don't blindly trust what some corporations advertised on their products. And like I said... Mobil one does a very good job with making darn good products top to bottom. It just seemed strange about the base number being lower than one would have expected on the EP. I am glad your results were good
and yes, I just learned something new because of your results and info sharing. That is always a good deal too.
You mean the guy that says:
Quote:
The test procedure I use is a rubbing friction test under load, which generates a wear scar on a test specimen that is bathed in the oil being tested. The result is “pounds” of force being applied over the wear scar “area”, which is in square inches. Or in other words, pounds per square inch, which of course is just shortened to “psi”. The better an oil’s wear protection capability, the smaller the wear scar will be on the test specimen, and the higher the resulting psi value will be.
There is this one fella who has an exhaustive test and research.. 540rat.. This individual did a ton of testing on over 145 plus types of oil. The Mobil one he sent to an independent lab showed the EP has a TBN in the low 7s.. Amsoil can be found on the petroleum quality institute of America site. Anyone who runs these companies can put almost whatever they want on a bottle to sell it. Point 2.. You had the good sense to test the product which is very smart. If I were to attempt running a product that long I would have sent off a sample at 7500 and 10k miles to check how things were looking. Again, I don't blindly trust what some corporations advertised on their products. And like I said... Mobil one does a very good job with making darn good products top to bottom. It just seemed strange about the base number being lower than one would have expected on the EP. I am glad your results were good
You mean the guy that says:
Quote:
The test procedure I use is a rubbing friction test under load, which generates a wear scar on a test specimen that is bathed in the oil being tested. The result is “pounds” of force being applied over the wear scar “area”, which is in square inches. Or in other words, pounds per square inch, which of course is just shortened to “psi”. The better an oil’s wear protection capability, the smaller the wear scar will be on the test specimen, and the higher the resulting psi value will be.
Hey you world champion... Guess what .. On a chemical level... The more "base" products in a product no matter what that product may be.. The longer it will last to "buffer" acids that are produced in a working motor. So yeah that makes sense on that level. And over time the base level becomes depleted over time and can become depleted and the pH can turn acidic and cause leaks to gaskets.. So would you rather start with a higher base number to be depleted or a lower one?? Which would you choose? I would choose a higher one that gives a better buffer especially if I was to use the product until it could well be depleted.. And I am not wrong for thinking that is probably a good idea.. Ohh and in our bodies if your potassium is low then your magnesium is low too.. And if you give magnesium first and potassium second.. It works better because the K will bind better in your cells. Why ? Its how your body's chemistry works.. And your car is a chemistry set all its own.. And so yes.. Give me a higher base number for very long drain intervals. That makes more sense to me. You can do as you see fit. And that's fine too. Yes ha.
Be cautious of some of those numbers you've read online. Note the ACEA specifications the product meets, and check what the rules are on those specifications. The last M1 product I've seen with a TBN of 7 or lower would be something like a Euro ACEA C sequence oil, which isn't the issue here at all. No SN/GF-5 A1/B1 A5/B5 (or A3/B3 A3/B4) M1 will have a TBN of 7 or less.
Sure, but that performance may not be linear.
Originally Posted By: bbhero
Hey you world champion... Guess what .. On a chemical level... The more "base" products in a product no matter what that product may be.. The longer it will last to "buffer" acids that are produced in a working motor. So yeah that makes sense on that level. And over time the base level becomes depleted over time and can become depleted and the pH can turn acidic and cause leaks to gaskets.. So would you rather start with a higher base number to be depleted or a lower one?? Which would you choose? I would choose a higher one that gives a better buffer especially if I was to use the product until it could well be depleted.. And I am not wrong for thinking that is probably a good idea.. Ohh and in our bodies if your potassium is low then your magnesium is low too.. And if you give magnesium first and potassium second.. It works better because the K will bind better in your cells. Why ? Its how your body's chemistry works.. And your car is a chemistry set all its own.. And so yes.. Give me a higher base number for very long drain intervals. That makes more sense to me. You can do as you see fit. And that's fine too. Yes ha.
Originally Posted By: bbhero
Hey you world champion... Guess what .. On a chemical level... The more "base" products in a product no matter what that product may be.. The longer it will last to "buffer" acids that are produced in a working motor. So yeah that makes sense on that level. And over time the base level becomes depleted over time and can become depleted and the pH can turn acidic and cause leaks to gaskets.. So would you rather start with a higher base number to be depleted or a lower one?? Which would you choose? I would choose a higher one that gives a better buffer especially if I was to use the product until it could well be depleted.. And I am not wrong for thinking that is probably a good idea.. Ohh and in our bodies if your potassium is low then your magnesium is low too.. And if you give magnesium first and potassium second.. It works better because the K will bind better in your cells. Why ? Its how your body's chemistry works.. And your car is a chemistry set all its own.. And so yes.. Give me a higher base number for very long drain intervals. That makes more sense to me. You can do as you see fit. And that's fine too. Yes ha.
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