Mobil 1 0W20 Differences - Which to use?

O

Oldswagon

Joined
Jan 23, 2003
Messages
882
Location
ON, Canada
What is the difference between M1 AFE, Truck and SUV, and EP? I read through lots of old threads, but I am not really clear on the differences other than EP has more PAO base stock. I see from Mobil's limited data online that the EP is slightly thicker at 8.8 cst vs 8.2 fo the others. I am not really sure the other differences in the additive packs.

I am using it in a 5.7L Toyota Tundra. My previous truck had the same engine, and I used AFE for most of it's life then switched to Truck and SUV. I noticed today Truck and SUV has increased in priced to be the same as EP. So does the extra PAO base stock make it a better choice? Extreme cold weather is consideration, but I am not interested in extended OCIs. I am planning on keeping the truck for a decade or more.
 
Oldswagon said:
What is the difference between M1 AFE, Truck and SUV, and EP? I read through lots of old threads, but I am not really clear on the differences other than EP has more PAO base stock. I see from Mobil's limited data online that the EP is slightly thicker at 8.8 cst vs 8.2 fo the others. I am not really sure the other differences in the additive packs.

I am using it in a 5.7L Toyota Tundra. My previous truck had the same engine, and I used AFE for most of it's life then switched to Truck and SUV. I noticed today Truck and SUV has increased in priced to be the same as EP. So does the extra PAO base stock make it a better choice? Extreme cold weather is consideration, but I am not interested in extended OCIs. I am planning on keeping the truck for a decade or more.
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Mobil 1 AFE 0W-30 or any of the Mobil 1 5W-30 products.

AFE has a focus on efficiency. Truck and SUV is marketing. EP is excellent if you plan to extend your intervals beyond 10,000 miles.

If you don't plan to extend intervals, I don't feel the EP is worth the extra $$. The standard Mobil 1 and AFE have proven to be good quality products, and Mobil rates them up to 10,000 mile interval.
 
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Your engine is speced for 0W20 - 15W40 and will run forever on any of them. Throw a dart. Change it for your climate as you wish. Get a UOA if you want to see actual differences.
 
drtyler said:
AFE has a focus on efficiency. Truck and SUV is marketing. EP is excellent if you plan to extend your intervals beyond 10,000 miles.
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I understand the basic concept of how each are focused, I wanted to know the specific or technical details on the differences. Like, what the differences are in the base stocks and additive packages, cold weather pumping characteristics, etc. When I started running 0W20 years ago there was only one choice. The OCD in me is to re-evaluate my oil choice going forward, even though I know it probably won't make a significant difference.

Oillover said:
5w30/40
Click to expand...

I owned my last Tundra for over a decade with 0W20 for the majority of its life and it was fine. The engine ran great when I sold it with virtually no oil consumption or reduction in MPGs/power over my ownership. Toyota specs out a 20 weight, and in my climate I see no advantage to going to a 5W30/40.
 
Triple_Se7en said:
Why not include the year, when mentioning it's another Tundra.
GDI Direct Inject is the reason some here are recommending 5w30. It will soak-up fuel dilution better than the 0w20.
Any name brand Syn that's on sale at Canadian Tire will work just fine.
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He didnt really have to when he said 5.7. Its port injected and dilution is only an issue if he short trips.
 
Can anyone explain the difference between these 0W20 formulations? I still haven't had anyone explain what the difference is between M1 AFE, EP and T&S?

Triple_Se7en said:
Why not include the year, when mentioning it's another Tundra.
GDI Direct Inject is the reason some here are recommending 5w30. It will soak-up fuel dilution better than the 0w20.
Any name brand Syn that's on sale at Canadian Tire will work just fine.
Click to expand...

I said its a 5.7L Tundra, and there is only one variation used between 2007 and 2021, which used port injection. My current truck is a 2021, my previous truck was a 2008. Both have the same engine, and neither see any significant short trips. I am not looking to just use whatever syn oil brand that is on sale, I am looking to find out what the difference is in M1's formulations. No one has answered that yet. No one has even confirmed that EP has more PAO in the base stock.
 
Oldswagon said:
Can anyone explain the difference between these 0W20 formulations? I still haven't had anyone explain what the difference is between M1 AFE, EP and T&S?



I said its a 5.7L Tundra, and there is only one variation used between 2007 and 2021, which used port injection. My current truck is a 2021, my previous truck was a 2008. Both have the same engine, and neither see any significant short trips. I am not looking to just use whatever syn oil brand that is on sale, I am looking to find out what the difference is in M1's formulations. No one has answered that yet. No one has even confirmed that EP has more PAO in the base stock.
Click to expand...

The people that know this information with certainty are employed by ExxonMobil, and they aren't talking to us.

Some like to read the tea leaves of the safety data sheets, but that assumes the information is accurate.
 
Oldswagon said:
Can anyone explain the difference between these 0W20 formulations? I still haven't had anyone explain what the difference is between M1 AFE, EP and T&S?



I said its a 5.7L Tundra, and there is only one variation used between 2007 and 2021, which used port injection. My current truck is a 2021, my previous truck was a 2008. Both have the same engine, and neither see any significant short trips. I am not looking to just use whatever syn oil brand that is on sale, I am looking to find out what the difference is in M1's formulations. No one has answered that yet. No one has even confirmed that EP has more PAO in the base stock.
Click to expand...
Don't forget ESP. Yet another formulation to add to the list. Specified for current/recent model Mercs.
 
Oldswagon said:
I understand the basic concept of how each are focused, I wanted to know the specific or technical details on the differences. ...

I owned my last Tundra for over a decade with 0W20 for the majority of its life and it was fine. ...Toyota specs out a 20 weight, and in my climate I see no advantage to going to a 5W30/40.
Click to expand...
I would poke around the used oil analysis here to get an ideal of visible add packs but that is only part of the story. much of the new stuff is not seen in a simple analysis. Sometimes a google search gives better results.

I know on my Subaru back with SM and SN formulations, I greatly preferred the Subaru Genuine 0W20 oil over ANY of the majors I tried. That is an Idemitsu oil blended in Indiana. Being somewhat cost sensitive, I don't see you going for that option, so, use the brand you have trusted.

It's a fool's errand chasing formulations as it just a guess and the basestock composition may change at each batch - or at least periodically - given interchange allowances.

Stateside Five bucks an oil change one way or the other ain't going to break the bank and I will buy what I want.

Good luck with the Truck! - Ken (not Chevy Chase, keep guessing)
 
Any of the oil on the list will allow the engine to out live your ownership of the vehicle.
 
Oldswagon said:
What is the difference between M1 AFE, Truck and SUV, and EP? I read through lots of old threads, but I am not really clear on the differences other than EP has more PAO base stock. I see from Mobil's limited data online that the EP is slightly thicker at 8.8 cst vs 8.2 fo the others. I am not really sure the other differences in the additive packs.

I am using it in a 5.7L Toyota Tundra. My previous truck had the same engine, and I used AFE for most of it's life then switched to Truck and SUV. I noticed today Truck and SUV has increased in priced to be the same as EP. So does the extra PAO base stock make it a better choice? Extreme cold weather is consideration, but I am not interested in extended OCIs. I am planning on keeping the truck for a decade or more.
Click to expand...
When I was stationed in Bahrain all the Land Cruisers there, and there are a lot of those LC over there, they all run 20w50 in the 5.7 engine with many miles and they don’t have a lot of issues with cam tower leaks or oil consumption, like we do, here in the States. I’m running a thick 5w30 in my Lc right now but going to 5w40 next change. I would stay away from 0w20 in that V8 but that’s me.
 
Oldswagon said:
What is the difference between M1 AFE, Truck and SUV, and EP? I read through lots of old threads, but I am not really clear on the differences other than EP has more PAO base stock. I see from Mobil's limited data online that the EP is slightly thicker at 8.8 cst vs 8.2 fo the others. I am not really sure the other differences in the additive packs.

I am using it in a 5.7L Toyota Tundra. My previous truck had the same engine, and I used AFE for most of it's life then switched to Truck and SUV. I noticed today Truck and SUV has increased in priced to be the same as EP. So does the extra PAO base stock make it a better choice? Extreme cold weather is consideration, but I am not interested in extended OCIs. I am planning on keeping the truck for a decade or more.
Click to expand...
Go with am1 0w20 AFE
 
Oldswagon said:
I understand the basic concept of how each are focused, I wanted to know the specific or technical details on the differences. Like, what the differences are in the base stocks and additive packages, cold weather pumping characteristics, etc. When I started running 0W20 years ago there was only one choice. The OCD in me is to re-evaluate my oil choice going forward, even though I know it probably won't make a significant difference.



I owned my last Tundra for over a decade with 0W20 for the majority of its life and it was fine. The engine ran great when I sold it with virtually no oil consumption or reduction in MPGs/power over my ownership. Toyota specs out a 20 weight, and in my climate I see no advantage to going to a 5W30/40.
Click to expand...
A decade is not very long, so in this case I would agree with you. Now if you said more than 2 decades then I would go with 5w30 in summer and 0w20 in winter.
This subject makes me curious about the maintenance history on my parents neighbors 2020ish Tundra TRD. I get the feeling he would be the type to do meticulous maintenance on all of his stuff, yes his 5.7 sounded like an old 5.4 3v Ford engine when I was standing next to it talking to them. Not sure what the deal is with it. It has to have less than 60k miles on it but I don't know.
 
Oillover said:
5w30/40
Click to expand...

The thing takes nearly 9 qts. of oil, you really think a couple cst's makes any difference? I'd rather save hundred$ or even thousand$ in gas over a decade....

To OP it wont matter much but I'd go either EP or AFE and stock up at rebate time...
 
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Oldswagon said:
What is the difference between M1 AFE, Truck and SUV, and EP? I read through lots of old threads, but I am not really clear on the differences other than EP has more PAO base stock. I see from Mobil's limited data online that the EP is slightly thicker at 8.8 cst vs 8.2 fo the others. I am not really sure the other differences in the additive packs.

I am using it in a 5.7L Toyota Tundra. My previous truck had the same engine, and I used AFE for most of it's life then switched to Truck and SUV. I noticed today Truck and SUV has increased in priced to be the same as EP. So does the extra PAO base stock make it a better choice? Extreme cold weather is consideration, but I am not interested in extended OCIs. I am planning on keeping the truck for a decade or more.
Click to expand...
For your application, I would personally rank them:

EP
Truck & SUV
AFE

If you tow a lot, AFE is one to avoid, since it’s designed to be really thin in use. If you choose AFE, step up to the 0w30, since it will soon be a 20 anyways.
 
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