in shame; atf for subaru 4eat and frequency

[martinq]

Here's roughly what I do:
- use a vacuum pump or turkey-baster to drain the reservoir
- remove it (make sure the surrounding area is clean)
- fill cover/fill the hole with clean rags/paper-towel
- clean the reservoir and replace
- fill & cap the reservoir

Starting with the corner furthest from the brake-master:
- put a box-end wrench over the drain-nipple
- attach my drain bottle to the nipple with the hose
- - make this out of a juice/water/pop bottle if you don't want to buy
- - buy some nylon (or similar) clear tubing from the hardware/parts store
- - drill two holes in the bottle cap (one small breath hole, one for tubing, snug fit)
- - insert the tubing through the cap, make it long enough to touch the bottom of the bottle
- crack the nipple loose 1/4 - 1/2 turn

- slowly pump the brake pedal in-out a set number of time (10?) or have some else do it while you watch the bottle/tube
- keep the reservoir filled
- when clean fluid is coming out, tighten the nipple

If you have a second person to help, then:
- tell them to apply brake 'pressure'
- crack open the nipple until you see fluid flow
- close when it stops (or when the driver tells you 'done' or 'floor')
- driver then slowly pumps the pedal until they feel 'pressure', and hold it
- repeat

Now move on to the next closest corner and repeat.

 

[91camarosRS]

that's what I did... Closed during a pump to make sure no air got back in. I should be able to buy a lot smaller bottle this time..

I'll switch to a method that submersies the hose next. Thank you.

 

[martinq]

Could you watch the fluid in the hose as it came out of the nipple? Any bubbles?

Also, NEVER let the reservoir run dry or you'll have to start all over.

Sometimes air in the system can work it's way out (depending where it is). If it still feels 'bad' after driving (and letting it sit overnight) then I'd redo it.

A pressure-bleeder is also a good way to go. This is about as cheap as it gets:
http://www.motiveproducts.com/

 

[91camarosRS]

So there is an issue with the turkey baster approach...

 

[FutureDoc]

Use a vinyl hose attached to the end of the baster. It will not have the same suction... but it works. I always used a vacuum pump personally.

 

[martinq]

Originally Posted By: FutureDoc
Use a vinyl hose attached to the end of the baster.

Yep, that's what I've used even when I have good access. The smaller tube prevents fluid from dripping out (especially lighter fluids like Brake Fluid). It also allows access to recesses and corners.

Anyway, once the reservoir is mostly empty I pull it out for a thorough cleaning (inside & out).

 

[martinq]

I think this post my Jim sums up the benefit of the Magnefine (and magnetic) filtering.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3239760#Post3240561
Originally Posted By: Jim Allen
If you tested it using the standard mixture of AT contaminants (which includes 51% iron) versus standard test dust, you may be able to call it 25 um because the magnet will grab nearly all of the iron and lead to a higher "net" result.

 

[91camarosRS]

My trans hates me.

Checked it a week? Later. Dark spot under car.... Maybe i didn't let it dry? I'll prob drive like this, then pull on next drain.

 

[SOHCman]

Originally Posted By: 91camarosRS


Any recommendations on antifreeze? I was suggested peak since low phosphorus or something like that? Then I was going to add redline water wetter or similar. Then once engine hits 100k I would take to Subaru for timing belt and water pump. They would put Subaru fluid in then.


There are universal coolants you could run like peak global lifetime, but the subarue stuff is good and obviously works.

Please dont add redline water wetter to the coolant! Its not an additive for coolant, its a additive for straight water that you would run in a track vehicle. Adding it to coolant is not only useless but it wont play well with the coolant and you get sludge.

 

[FutureDoc]

Originally Posted By: 91camarosRS
My trans hates me.

Checked it a week? Later. Dark spot under car.... Maybe i didn't let it dry? I'll prob drive like this, then pull on next drain.


Get underthere with some brake clean and clean the entire area out. Then wait for a few hours. Then comeback with a few paper towels and see if you can find the leak by dabbing around and looking for new ATF. Do you think was from resealing the RTV or do you try and find a gasket for it?

 

[91camarosRS]

Im thinkig i didn't use enough.... I used permatex ultra black. I can see several spots, it just gives me an excuse to drop pan/drain screen area, and clean magnet. I just don't wanna scrape it all off again.

I found a tsb that says there is a replacement for fugi bond.

I should use this anyways. + I can use for valve covers and oil pan.

But I have a motor now!.... But it also has bad head gasket. However, come with OEM Subaru head gaskets, + whatever was in the bags. 67k claimed miles
All the replacement motors were 2k and I can only use longblock anyways, no and warranty since I'm doing work myself. I have a timing belt, intake and exhaust gaskets

No plans on water wetter anymore BTW.

 

[FutureDoc]

New motor fun!

 

[martinq]

Originally Posted By: 91camarosRS
No plans on water wetter anymore BTW.

Yeah, I wouldn't bother with WW either. If you are having repeated overheating then the cooling system will need to be addressed.

I'm pretty sure I used Permatex Red RTV. Any of them should work fine if you apply a nice bead where it's needed and both surfaces are clean and oil-free. It's easier to get the larger tubes and use a caulking-gun for the job. I did it twice and had no leaks both times.

 

[91camarosRS]

I was. Little conservative with my bead, even went around bolts, cross torqued to prevent squewing of pan.

I think I accidentally ordered a 170 thermostat.. that said, I may just run it unless I have problems with it not being warm enough(like my loaner truck from friend, most of radiator is covered just to get to operating temp and have a heater)

I think I finially have everything I need parts wise besides,downpipe(not needed to run) and electronic boost control solenoid(3port).

Here we go!
Oh, and engine stand.hoist,time

 

[The_Eric]

For the transmission pan, use either Permatex ATF RTV or "The Right Stuff". Either will work well. Supposedly the Right Stuff will tolerate a small amount of oil on the sealing surface and still work.

It is best however, to if both surfaces are absolutely clean and dry. On an auto trans, it's VERY difficult to do. Also a tip... Some cleaners will leave a residue that impairs the sealants ability. There are some brake cleaners out there, but I haven't found a easily recognized name brand to recommend. Acetone, alcohol or about any paint surface prep solution should work. That's how you get an RTV to seal for the long haul.

Lastly, don't be too conservative with it. A nice 1/4" bead will suit your needs well. Once done, if at all possible leave it to set up overnight before refilling with ATF.

 

[91camarosRS]

I did all that....


Contact.cleaner. and dish soap to clean.


1/4 beed. Around boosts too. O

I filled a day AMD a half later

 

[martinq]

Originally Posted By: 91camarosRS
Contact.cleaner. and dish soap to clean.
1/4 beed. Around boosts too. O
I filled a day AMD a half later

That all sounds good to me. I think I used a bit less than 1/4" but there were two places where the sealing surface was very thin. Placement of the bead here is critical to preventing a leak.

 

[91camarosRS]

Apologise for the spelling errors.... I was half awake.... Ambian does crazy things.... Ha ha


But anyways...

Maybe second time will be better

 

[FutureDoc]

Why not just clean the RTV off and swap in a proper gasket?

Sure RTV works but when you have to open something yourself eventually, the gasket makes more sense to me personally.

 

[91camarosRS]

Scratches in pan from rtv removal?