But did you get a new OEM starter, or a reman from the corner store?
I think the ol' Corolla is on her last legs...
- Thread starter grampi
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I don't know, and I don't really care. This car may last me another year or two tops, I'm sure it'll last that long. If not, my mechanic will replace it on his dime...
With respect, this thread is one about reliable vehicles which might possibly go three or four hundred thousand miles. No Ford Fusion has earned its place in this discussion. Maybe a Crown Vic, although that is not really what the OP is going for.
Normally I would agree with this statement however the fusion with the 2.5 has proven itself to be a solid rig
Owen Lucas
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That Corolla was on its last legs 100k miles ago. Kudos on keeping it running for so long. I think it takes a lot of extra knowledgeable care and proactive maintenance to push a vehicle beyond its excellent engineering to 400k.
We had one that made it to 200k before we sold it. The underside of the hood looked like the Exxon Valdez disaster because I never had time to get to fixing the leaking gaskets. Helpfully she is still running out there (with new gaskets).
We had one that made it to 200k before we sold it. The underside of the hood looked like the Exxon Valdez disaster because I never had time to get to fixing the leaking gaskets. Helpfully she is still running out there (with new gaskets).
You buy a car every few years so how are you a barometer of “reliability”?
I’ve seen several with 300k. Then again after 15 years in their dealership system, I’ve just seen a lot of Fords.
But if everyone wants to keep pushing the only Honda/Toyota can be reliable narrative, it will keep the cost down on reliable vehicles from other makes. That was the story of the Escort ZX2 as well. Those things would run forever and sold used for $500 when a Camry, Corolla or Civic was $2000.
Pretty sure those things are Mazdas, which are up there in reliability.
Actually, no it wasn't. It didn't really start acting its extremely high mileage until just recently...
ZX2 was a Mazda chassis with a Ford engine.
The Fusion was a restyled Mazda 6 with softer suspension until the 13 redesign.
The mentioned poor reliability after two years is a barometer of reliability; well, actually a data point.
If you don't like it ignore it ... possibly at your pocketbook's peril.
Maybe you are talking about longevity. Owned nothing recently worth keeping.
Those good cars were from the Sixties.
The harsh reality was even after I got customer care authorization for repair, the Dealer refused to perform the repair. Very frustrating. If I can't get a warranty issue fixed, I am not going to do big ticket items on my dime after the warranty expires. And that is one of many issues after only three years pf ownership. At least they replaced the wheel bearing.
I have a file on this car, here is a TSB on the exhaust odor in the cabin(!)
Many second generation YARISes had or still may have an issue with the timing chain cover leaking straight from the factory due to poor sealing . The white F.I.P.G. from factory was replaced with O.E.M black form in place gasket sealant . Oil seeped from timing chain cover down to corner of engine and then to the top of the oil pan . Leak stopped after new sealant at TOYOTA dealer .
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It's hard to beat the 9th generation Corolla. I agree, you should just run it as long as you can at this point.
Unfortunately, when it comes time to replace it, it's not likely I'll be able to find another gen 9 worth owning to replace it with. How are the gen 10 Corollas? I see they still have the 4 speed auto tranny, which is a good thing, as they are bullet proof...
Pretty much the same components/drivetrain. I have a 9th and a 10th. 173k on the 9th and 193k on the 10th so just getting broken in.
The CVT in my 11th and 12th gens are pretty reliable, at least they are in mine with well over 200,000 miles. Although I didn't put those miles on myself, they are the original transmissions.
I think a clean 11-13 would be perfect
Most cars, if not all, with 200K will have failed motor mounts and thus won't pass a safety inspection without paying some fees to a mechanic for the work. There's usually at least one mount that's a pain to remove. And if one needs replacing, it is best to replace all of them. But furthermore, if you are planning to keep the used 200k car long term, then you want the mechanic to install OEM grade motor mounts.
Valve cover gaskets are also unlikely to have been replaced for a 200k car, and that means oil could be pissing out into the engine bay and spark plug tubes and over the cam- and crankshaft position sensors. Again, if not DIYing, another few hundred to a thousand. I got stranded by a by crank position sensor on a 250k car that was pissing oil. A 1MZ-FE camry.
We only get the mk6 in North America and the manual only comes in the base model (minus ST trim) with no cruise control, manual roll down windows, and no arm rest. The other trims come with the dreaded PowerShift trans.
