The only way to know when to change filter is to a switch connected to a light added to the filter bypass valve letting you know when it is bypassing. If it is bypassing when the engine is fully warmed up it's time for a new filter. Dan
I Don't Change My Oil - Test Results
- Thread starter jsinton
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You can remove the oil, and filter it (85% down to 1 micron) using the Pentek DGD-2501 spun polypropylene filter cartridge (Amazon, etc.) and some 5" diameter PVC pipe parts (Home Depot, etc.) with a catch bucket or other creative setup. Your oil filter is typically only good down to around 20 microns, so you can get out the small sand & gunk to near 1 micron. Lots of sub-50-micron dust gets in thru the air filter over time.
This Land Rover Expedition team went 35,000 miles without an oil change, and the inside of their engine looked bad (over a quart of sludge they hand-scooped out) due to heavy dust that got in (Mobil 1 used):
This Land Rover Expedition team went 35,000 miles without an oil change, and the inside of their engine looked bad (over a quart of sludge they hand-scooped out) due to heavy dust that got in (Mobil 1 used):
Originally Posted By: stickybuns
You can remove the oil, and filter it (85% down to 1 micron) using the Pentek DGD-2501 spun polypropylene filter cartridge (Amazon, etc.) and some 5" diameter PVC pipe parts (Home Depot, etc.) with a catch bucket or other creative setup. Your oil filter is typically only good down to around 20 microns, so you can get out the small sand & gunk to near 1 micron. Lots of sub-50-micron dust gets in thru the air filter over time.
This Land Rover Expedition team went 35,000 miles without an oil change, and the inside of their engine looked bad (over a quart of sludge they hand-scooped out) due to heavy dust that got in (Mobil 1 used):
Okay, I got a valve cover gasket laying around out there, let me change it and I'll take a pic. I'll get Quattro Pete to post it for me.
You can remove the oil, and filter it (85% down to 1 micron) using the Pentek DGD-2501 spun polypropylene filter cartridge (Amazon, etc.) and some 5" diameter PVC pipe parts (Home Depot, etc.) with a catch bucket or other creative setup. Your oil filter is typically only good down to around 20 microns, so you can get out the small sand & gunk to near 1 micron. Lots of sub-50-micron dust gets in thru the air filter over time.
This Land Rover Expedition team went 35,000 miles without an oil change, and the inside of their engine looked bad (over a quart of sludge they hand-scooped out) due to heavy dust that got in (Mobil 1 used):
Okay, I got a valve cover gasket laying around out there, let me change it and I'll take a pic. I'll get Quattro Pete to post it for me.
gathermewool
Site Donor 2023
I'm not sure some of you know what a "TBN" is...
Also, please explain to me the psid change between 3k and 10k miles...
Also, please explain to me the psid change between 3k and 10k miles...
MrQuackers
Site Donor 2024
Looking forward to the pictures!
MrQuackers
Site Donor 2024
Originally Posted By: MrQuackers
The link in your sig does not work
www.fuelly.com/car/hyundai/elantra/1999/jsinton/64941
Yeah, I know, haven't been over there for a while.
The link in your sig does not work
www.fuelly.com/car/hyundai/elantra/1999/jsinton/64941
Yeah, I know, haven't been over there for a while.
Here you go...
Nothing wrong there. Remarkable. How often do you change oil filters?
Wait, I see you said about every 3,000 miles.
Wait, I see you said about every 3,000 miles.
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You do a lot of short trips. High mileage. No oil change in the last 3 years and 51k miles. AND valvetrain is clean enough to eat off of. What about oxidative viscosity increases? Sludge formation from blowby? Something is amiss.
I read somewhere that in a situation like this, the "lighter" molecules in the oil will burn off first, leaving behind a thicker mixture in the sump.
So even with an oil burner, you still need to do a drain & fill occasionally.
Is there any truth to this?
So even with an oil burner, you still need to do a drain & fill occasionally.
Is there any truth to this?
Again thank you.
This should put to rest the doubter from your previous posts.
I do not recall if I made a Coke wager or not. I am going to fridge to get a soda.
This should put to rest the doubter from your previous posts.
I do not recall if I made a Coke wager or not. I am going to fridge to get a soda.
Originally Posted By: jsinton
Originally Posted By: gathermewool
How much oil is replenished during a filter change?
If you're not generating much in the way of contaminants and your goal is resource conservation, then wouldn't using a better filter for twice the interval or longer make more sense?
Many of us who do change our oil every 7-10k miles leave the filter for up to twice that that long (for my Honda - 6k interval for the Subie). In fact, if you change your oil filter every 3k miles you're tossing 5 filters away for every one I toss.
Yeah, I don't believe keeping a filter on for a long time is such a great idea. If you've ever owned a vacuum cleaner, a fish tank, changed a air con filter, etc. you can see the logic. It's important to keep oil pressure high. An oil filter might still work after 12k, but for sure you've lost oil pressure. So I don't believe the kool-aid about "high mileage" oil filters. You lose pressure, it's as simple as that.
You've taken a reasonably sound approach to this, but your knowledge is lacking when it comes to oil filters and TBN.
Excess TBN's floating around????
Also, running an oil filter longer will result in greater efficiency and lower solids- this I'm sure you know. What you seem to be missing is that the same amount of oil WILL pass through the filter, no matter it's state of loading. This is because the type of oil pump autos use is called positive displacement. They WILL push a set amount of oil through a given restriction, or restrictions (filter, oil galleries) no matter what. Your concern of LOWER oil pressure is unfounded. In fact, the greater the restriction, the GREATER the pressure (pressure is a measure of restriction). If a filter becomes so loaded that it can no longer filter or pass oil without self destructing, then it or engine (depending on design) will by-pass the filter media. This is set to happen on PSID (pressure differential or delta). Typically around 7-10 lbs. Member Jim Allen has some excellent info on this from an extended data logging session he did.
Ideally to conserve time and resources, you'd figure out how to run a filter to the point of by-pass, at which time, you'd replace it and top off the oil. By keeping unneeded filter changes to a minimum, you're also keeping wastes and energy consumption associated with manufacturing (from mining of raw ore to finished products) down.
Now the reality is that while your efforts are worthy of applause, they will not have a measurable impact unless a FAR greater percentage of the motoring public joins you.
Originally Posted By: gathermewool
How much oil is replenished during a filter change?
If you're not generating much in the way of contaminants and your goal is resource conservation, then wouldn't using a better filter for twice the interval or longer make more sense?
Many of us who do change our oil every 7-10k miles leave the filter for up to twice that that long (for my Honda - 6k interval for the Subie). In fact, if you change your oil filter every 3k miles you're tossing 5 filters away for every one I toss.
Yeah, I don't believe keeping a filter on for a long time is such a great idea. If you've ever owned a vacuum cleaner, a fish tank, changed a air con filter, etc. you can see the logic. It's important to keep oil pressure high. An oil filter might still work after 12k, but for sure you've lost oil pressure. So I don't believe the kool-aid about "high mileage" oil filters. You lose pressure, it's as simple as that.
You've taken a reasonably sound approach to this, but your knowledge is lacking when it comes to oil filters and TBN.
Excess TBN's floating around????
Also, running an oil filter longer will result in greater efficiency and lower solids- this I'm sure you know. What you seem to be missing is that the same amount of oil WILL pass through the filter, no matter it's state of loading. This is because the type of oil pump autos use is called positive displacement. They WILL push a set amount of oil through a given restriction, or restrictions (filter, oil galleries) no matter what. Your concern of LOWER oil pressure is unfounded. In fact, the greater the restriction, the GREATER the pressure (pressure is a measure of restriction). If a filter becomes so loaded that it can no longer filter or pass oil without self destructing, then it or engine (depending on design) will by-pass the filter media. This is set to happen on PSID (pressure differential or delta). Typically around 7-10 lbs. Member Jim Allen has some excellent info on this from an extended data logging session he did.
Ideally to conserve time and resources, you'd figure out how to run a filter to the point of by-pass, at which time, you'd replace it and top off the oil. By keeping unneeded filter changes to a minimum, you're also keeping wastes and energy consumption associated with manufacturing (from mining of raw ore to finished products) down.
Now the reality is that while your efforts are worthy of applause, they will not have a measurable impact unless a FAR greater percentage of the motoring public joins you.
The fact that this car is in FL, a warm climate with low dust (not like the Mojave desert), and the owner mostly used synthetic oils is the reason the engine can go so many miles and years without an oil change.
Changing filters often could help keep the sludge process from beginning. Sludge and varnish appear to need chemical triggers to get out of control. See Article on How Sludge/Varnish Forms.
Changing filters often could help keep the sludge process from beginning. Sludge and varnish appear to need chemical triggers to get out of control. See Article on How Sludge/Varnish Forms.
From the article I linked to above:
which should explain, vaguely, how some engines can't go 3 years and many miles without sludging up.
which should explain, vaguely, how some engines can't go 3 years and many miles without sludging up.
I've never owned a oil burner. Would the results be the same if I never had to add oil? I follow the drive it like you stole it break in method and never had a burner.
This thread is truly an eye opener for a oil burner car. It really does show how much we BITOGers stress about oil for no good reason!
This thread is truly an eye opener for a oil burner car. It really does show how much we BITOGers stress about oil for no good reason!
Originally Posted By: deven
I've never owned a oil burner. Would the results be the same if I never had to add oil? I follow the drive it like you stole it break in method and never had a burner.
I doubt that the results would be the same the no oil consumption...no new oil to add additives, no contaminants disappearing out the tailpipe/seals.
http://www.brianschreurs.org/neptune.spacebears.com/cars/stories/mobil1.html
(and the Amsoil test also) Demonstrated that not very much is needed to be replaced to start to flatline oil analysis.
I've never owned a oil burner. Would the results be the same if I never had to add oil? I follow the drive it like you stole it break in method and never had a burner.
I doubt that the results would be the same the no oil consumption...no new oil to add additives, no contaminants disappearing out the tailpipe/seals.
http://www.brianschreurs.org/neptune.spacebears.com/cars/stories/mobil1.html
(and the Amsoil test also) Demonstrated that not very much is needed to be replaced to start to flatline oil analysis.
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