^^ I think I have found it.
http://www.amazon.com/10X1-25-Metric-Rig...0x1.25+hand+tap
Ordering it now...
http://www.amazon.com/10X1-25-Metric-Rig...0x1.25+hand+tap
Ordering it now...
I am going to have to put this head on myself.
- Thread starter InfmousCornholio
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Originally Posted By: TFB1
While you are talking this to death, I've installed two this morning... Will finish the remainder this afternoon...
Yeah.. Engine stand, nice V-8. WTG!
I am going to order this M10x1.25 tap, maybe even check Harbor Freight for a METRIC set.
Let's Git 'Er Done.
While you are talking this to death, I've installed two this morning... Will finish the remainder this afternoon...
Yeah.. Engine stand, nice V-8. WTG!
I am going to order this M10x1.25 tap, maybe even check Harbor Freight for a METRIC set.
Let's Git 'Er Done.
M10x1.25 is metric.
Running a tap in an aluminum engine block scares me.
Running a tap in an aluminum engine block scares me.
Originally Posted By: InfmousCornholio
Yeah.. Engine stand, nice V-8. WTG!
I am going to order this M10x1.25 tap, maybe even check Harbor Freight for a METRIC set.
Let's Git 'Er Done.
Don't let anyone get you down.
Your progress is astonishing.
Keep up the good work.
BC.
Yeah.. Engine stand, nice V-8. WTG!
I am going to order this M10x1.25 tap, maybe even check Harbor Freight for a METRIC set.
Let's Git 'Er Done.
Don't let anyone get you down.
Your progress is astonishing.
Keep up the good work.
BC.
Purchased.
Of note is the one that says 10x1.25
Of note is the one that says 10x1.25
Originally Posted By: InfmousCornholio
I keep hearing it said to "Take an old head bolt and grind one side off to make a thread chaser."
I suppose grinding a flat would would work. What you want is a space for the metal or crud you remove. I have used a dremel with a cut off wheel to grind flutes into a bolt. Or a 3 cornered file.
I keep hearing it said to "Take an old head bolt and grind one side off to make a thread chaser."
I suppose grinding a flat would would work. What you want is a space for the metal or crud you remove. I have used a dremel with a cut off wheel to grind flutes into a bolt. Or a 3 cornered file.
Run the die over the bolts to clean off the gunk, then see how the bolts thread into the block. If they're smooth, you're done.
If not, you may need to clean the threads...
Be very, very careful when using the tap in the block. Carefully align it, don't force it. Very, very light pressure to clean threads.
Anything more than light pressure on the tap tells me threads are boogered and you need a professional opinion on whether an insert is needed.
Better to leave alone than to force the tap and booger threads yourself.
I like the "head bolt thread chaser" idea - it will cut less aggressively than a tap. With a Dremel, would cut lengthwise slots, three or four, deep enough to remove the threads and leave room for swarf, on a bolt and then thread it into the block.
If not, you may need to clean the threads...
Be very, very careful when using the tap in the block. Carefully align it, don't force it. Very, very light pressure to clean threads.
Anything more than light pressure on the tap tells me threads are boogered and you need a professional opinion on whether an insert is needed.
Better to leave alone than to force the tap and booger threads yourself.
I like the "head bolt thread chaser" idea - it will cut less aggressively than a tap. With a Dremel, would cut lengthwise slots, three or four, deep enough to remove the threads and leave room for swarf, on a bolt and then thread it into the block.
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: Astro14
Run the die over the bolts to clean off the gunk, then see how the bolts thread into the block. If they're smooth, you're done.
If not, you may need to clean the threads...
Be very, very careful when using the tap in the block. Carefully align it, don't force it. Very, very light pressure to clean threads.
Anything more than light pressure on the tap tells me threads are boogered and you need a professional opinion on whether an insert is needed.
Better to leave alone than to force the tap and booger threads yourself.
I like the "head bolt thread chaser" idea - it will cut less aggressively than a tap. With a Dremel, would cut lengthwise slots, three or four, deep enough to remove the threads and leave room for swarf, on a bolt and then thread it into the block.
I'm actually more worried about "filing down" the bolt than cleaning the threads.. I know that file will get the metal down..
I actually plan on returning that HF unit pictured, and this is coming in the mail.. It is a tap, with a Heli-Coil. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002SRG3...d=ATVPDKIKX0DER
I'm not sure why some would say the threads can't be tapped. I welcome input from all sides, but you all should know me by now.. I want to get it right.
I'll revisit cleaning and threading tomorrow.. Again, the ones in the back went well and the ones in the front have some kind of issues.
I also want to punch Antonio in the face for what he was doing right in front of me. I trusted that censored.
Run the die over the bolts to clean off the gunk, then see how the bolts thread into the block. If they're smooth, you're done.
If not, you may need to clean the threads...
Be very, very careful when using the tap in the block. Carefully align it, don't force it. Very, very light pressure to clean threads.
Anything more than light pressure on the tap tells me threads are boogered and you need a professional opinion on whether an insert is needed.
Better to leave alone than to force the tap and booger threads yourself.
I like the "head bolt thread chaser" idea - it will cut less aggressively than a tap. With a Dremel, would cut lengthwise slots, three or four, deep enough to remove the threads and leave room for swarf, on a bolt and then thread it into the block.
I'm actually more worried about "filing down" the bolt than cleaning the threads.. I know that file will get the metal down..
I actually plan on returning that HF unit pictured, and this is coming in the mail.. It is a tap, with a Heli-Coil. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002SRG3...d=ATVPDKIKX0DER
I'm not sure why some would say the threads can't be tapped. I welcome input from all sides, but you all should know me by now.. I want to get it right.
I'll revisit cleaning and threading tomorrow.. Again, the ones in the back went well and the ones in the front have some kind of issues.
I also want to punch Antonio in the face for what he was doing right in front of me. I trusted that censored.
Originally Posted By: Nick1994
Lol that poor Honda looks like it's begging to be put out of it's misery.
It will be.
Lol that poor Honda looks like it's begging to be put out of it's misery.
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
Originally Posted By: InfmousCornholio
I'm actually more worried about "filing down" the bolt than cleaning the threads.. I know that file will get the metal down..
You aren't listening. You use the DIE from your tap and die set, to clean the threads of the bolts to make sure they are obstruction-free. You no longer need the file with the tool kit you bought.
Originally Posted By: InfmousCornholio
I actually plan on returning that HF unit pictured, and this is coming in the mail.. It is a tap, with a Heli-Coil. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002SRG3...d=ATVPDKIKX0DER
You are again getting ahead of yourself. Why do you think you need a heli-coil? So you can further bugger the engine? You don't even know if anything is stripped yet and subsequently in need of this.
Use the tap from the kit you just bought, the one that is the same thread as the bolts, and gently work it down the holes to clean them. Do this several times, WITH LUBRICANT. DO NOT BOTTOM THEM OUT.
With the threads on the bolts chased with the die and the threads on the block chased with the tap, the bolts should thread easily.
Originally Posted By: InfmousCornholio
I'm not sure why some would say the threads can't be tapped. I welcome input from all sides, but you all should know me by now.. I want to get it right.
Then stop jumping around like a rabid mongoose and pay attention. Read this thread. Then read it again. Good advice has been given, you are doing exactly what you always do which is go off half cocked on a crazy tangent and then wonder why things get buggered up.
People are telling you to be careful with the threads on the aluminum block because they are easy to bugger up and if you bugger them up, they need something like a time-sert in order to be usable again.
Originally Posted By: InfmousCornholio
I'll revisit cleaning and threading tomorrow.. Again, the ones in the back went well and the ones in the front have some kind of issues.
Those issues may just be filth and/or corrosion from the engine sitting outside with no head on it. This is why a proper inspection and cleaning is needed to assess what's really going on.
This is NOT complicated but it requires patience and understanding, both things that are not your forte so again I invite you to read and then re-read what has been said here until you are CLEAR on it and it has sunk in.
I'm actually more worried about "filing down" the bolt than cleaning the threads.. I know that file will get the metal down..
You aren't listening. You use the DIE from your tap and die set, to clean the threads of the bolts to make sure they are obstruction-free. You no longer need the file with the tool kit you bought.
Originally Posted By: InfmousCornholio
I actually plan on returning that HF unit pictured, and this is coming in the mail.. It is a tap, with a Heli-Coil. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002SRG3...d=ATVPDKIKX0DER
You are again getting ahead of yourself. Why do you think you need a heli-coil? So you can further bugger the engine? You don't even know if anything is stripped yet and subsequently in need of this.
Use the tap from the kit you just bought, the one that is the same thread as the bolts, and gently work it down the holes to clean them. Do this several times, WITH LUBRICANT. DO NOT BOTTOM THEM OUT.
With the threads on the bolts chased with the die and the threads on the block chased with the tap, the bolts should thread easily.
Originally Posted By: InfmousCornholio
I'm not sure why some would say the threads can't be tapped. I welcome input from all sides, but you all should know me by now.. I want to get it right.
Then stop jumping around like a rabid mongoose and pay attention. Read this thread. Then read it again. Good advice has been given, you are doing exactly what you always do which is go off half cocked on a crazy tangent and then wonder why things get buggered up.
People are telling you to be careful with the threads on the aluminum block because they are easy to bugger up and if you bugger them up, they need something like a time-sert in order to be usable again.
Originally Posted By: InfmousCornholio
I'll revisit cleaning and threading tomorrow.. Again, the ones in the back went well and the ones in the front have some kind of issues.
Those issues may just be filth and/or corrosion from the engine sitting outside with no head on it. This is why a proper inspection and cleaning is needed to assess what's really going on.
This is NOT complicated but it requires patience and understanding, both things that are not your forte so again I invite you to read and then re-read what has been said here until you are CLEAR on it and it has sunk in.
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
Did I just watch somebody use a tap with a friggin' DRILL???????????
Originally Posted By: Ramblejam
For the sake of Overkill, Astro, and everyone else providing their time and knowledge...watch the video:
Your continued contribution to this thread as well as continued harassment has been reported.
For the sake of Overkill, Astro, and everyone else providing their time and knowledge...watch the video:
Your continued contribution to this thread as well as continued harassment has been reported.
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Did I just watch somebody use a tap with a friggin' DRILL???????????
When I am able, in the next few days.. I will re-read, starting with the post you made.
It is because of the video that was added (??) that did actually happen that I feel there may need to be some heli-coring taking place, at least on the one bolt.
I feel like the Honda is a "no rush" type of situation.. This, I can say, is different. Though I need to fight my "SQUIRREL!" tendencies.
Also, OVERKILL: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubb...uga#Post3864775
Did I just watch somebody use a tap with a friggin' DRILL???????????
When I am able, in the next few days.. I will re-read, starting with the post you made.
It is because of the video that was added (??) that did actually happen that I feel there may need to be some heli-coring taking place, at least on the one bolt.
I feel like the Honda is a "no rush" type of situation.. This, I can say, is different. Though I need to fight my "SQUIRREL!" tendencies.
Also, OVERKILL: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubb...uga#Post3864775
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: InfmousCornholio
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
Originally Posted By: dishdude
In all fairness, that video added more clarity to this entire situation than any other post in this thread. We now know the threads in the block are totally destroyed.
Yes, I'd like some clarification on this as to whether the moron with the drill hit more than one hole with it. If so, then this thing needs inserts, not heli-coils. And I believe that is beyond the skills possessed by the OP (no offence Joseph).
In all fairness, that video added more clarity to this entire situation than any other post in this thread. We now know the threads in the block are totally destroyed.
Yes, I'd like some clarification on this as to whether the moron with the drill hit more than one hole with it. If so, then this thing needs inserts, not heli-coils. And I believe that is beyond the skills possessed by the OP (no offence Joseph).
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