I am going to have to put this head on myself.

Status
Not open for further replies.
Originally Posted By: InfmousCornholio

When I am able, in the next few days.. I will re-read, starting with the post you made.

It is because of the video that was added (??) that did actually happen that I feel there may need to be some heli-coring taking place, at least on the one bolt.


Why was this not divulged earlier? Why was this not mentioned? It would seem like we were being intentionally strung along while attempting to advise you in good faith whilst you were withholding extremely important information about this situation, information that would have greatly affected the advice given.

Inserts into aluminum (not heli-coils) are not something you are going to be able to do. Something like a lock-n-stitch needs a machine shop or something along those lines to install them properly.

Your engine has sat outside with the head off. Your head bolt holes have been ravaged by what looks like a meth addict with a tap and die set and cordless drill. I would suggest simply cutting your losses and sending this one to the wreckers unless you want to source another engine for it.
 
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: InfmousCornholio

When I am able, in the next few days.. I will re-read, starting with the post you made.

It is because of the video that was added (??) that did actually happen that I feel there may need to be some heli-coring taking place, at least on the one bolt.


Why was this not divulged earlier? Why was this not mentioned? It would seem like we were being intentionally strung along while attempting to advise you in good faith whilst you were withholding extremely important information about this situation, information that would have greatly affected the advice given.

Inserts into aluminum (not heli-coils) are not something you are going to be able to do. Something like a lock-n-stitch needs a machine shop or something along those lines to install them properly.

Your engine has sat outside with the head off. Your head bolt holes have been ravaged by what looks like a meth addict with a tap and die set and cordless drill. I would suggest simply cutting your losses and sending this one to the wreckers unless you want to source another engine for it.


"Not divulged earlier?" Because I thought it was tapped already so I thought I was good to go.. You know me well enough to know that I'm honest, in my stupidity. If you want to call it that.

I have a tap and die set now, and "Heli-coil" on the way, with inserts.. I even watched a video on how to install a "Time-sert." I think I posted it in this thread.

The engine has been abused, sure. But, the reason I didn't get another D16Z6 in the first place.. is money..

I want to fix this car.. remember, I still have one more to do, after this!

Surely, you guys never thought you would see me turning wrenches etc on my own cars. This Honda and the Chevy ARE all mine too. Not that that matters, not only for my own personal reasons.. as nobody else gives a [censored].. I tend to the machines, not the people. The Tool Whisperer if you will.

I'm not giving up on this car.

Anybody that knows me should know why.

Also. Someone has told me that Harbor Freight tap/die is THE WORST so.. should I get another from Amazon? Different brand?
 
How many people here think the engine isn't going to turn when I get the impact wrench on the crank pulley.

If it doesn't then this thread changes to "I am going to have to put this D16Z6 in myself" unless I break it loose with ATF and Acetone.. a magical concoction I love now..
 
It sounds like all I have to do is take my impact gun and get the pulley on it and the bolt and just turn it until it turns "the wrong way" again, and then we will be satisfied that it turns... and then I have to time it again..
 
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: dishdude
In all fairness, that video added more clarity to this entire situation than any other post in this thread. We now know the threads in the block are totally destroyed.


Yes, I'd like some clarification on this as to whether the moron with the drill hit more than one hole with it. If so, then this thing needs inserts, not heli-coils. And I believe that is beyond the skills possessed by the OP (no offence Joseph).
I could be wrong but that video was produced by

































none other than the OP. Other videos posted under the same username on the youtube had few Blazer ones too.
 
Originally Posted By: InfmousCornholio


"Not divulged earlier?" Because I thought it was tapped already so I thought I was good to go.. You know me well enough to know that I'm honest, in my stupidity. If you want to call it that.


picard-facepalm.jpg


Why would it/should it be tapped? You aren't paying attention. The purpose of using the tap was to simply CLEAN THE THREADS, not TAP THE HOLE.

Originally Posted By: InfmousCornholio
I have a tap and die set now, and "Heli-coil" on the way, with inserts.. I even watched a video on how to install a "Time-sert." I think I posted it in this thread.


Head bolts have a lot of stress on them, heli-coils will pull out. These are going into soft aluminum, so answer the question, how many of the holes did the crack head with the drill and tap hit with his methy-methods?

Originally Posted By: InfmousCornholio
The engine has been abused, sure. But, the reason I didn't get another D16Z6 in the first place.. is money..


Point blank: You've spent enough money on wizards and stuff you didn't need that you could probably have bought a new engine two times over now.


Originally Posted By: InfmousCornholio


Also. Someone has told me that Harbor Freight tap/die is THE WORST so.. should I get another from Amazon? Different brand?


Sure, for perhaps using it for the purpose of tapping threads, but the point of you having it was to simply CLEAN THEM, for which I imagine it would be just fine.

But we are past that now, there's been a drug addict, high on methamphetamine, using a tap on a power drill in your bolt hole or holes, we don't know which because you won't answer that question.
 
Joseph - there is a chance that this engine (and therefore car) is not worth saving. You don't want to believe that, so I'm trying to walk you through the process of installing the head and that starts with checking the bolts and holes. There are dozens of subsequent steps, but go back to my discussion of torque and stretch - if you can't properly bolt this up, it will leak.

So, in order:

The condition of pistons and rings is important. The WD-40 soak is good. Sitting outside for months is bad. The rust on the cylinders is very, very bad. If the engine is stuck, if it won't turn, that's because the rings are rusted to the cylinders and this engine is worthless. Even if the rings aren't stuck, those rusty cylinders may never seal properly with the rings, and you will have an engine that burns oil and has low compression.

Turn the engine and find out. Don't use an impact, use a breaker bar and move it smoothly. Soak the rings again even if it turns, you need to keep them free.

On to the head itself.

Measure the [censored] bolts! I've said this twice. You have to know that they're useable. Don't go buying new just yet, you'll be throwing your $$ away if the block is in bad shape.

Clean the bolt threads on the useable bolts. Use a die to get the gunk from in the threads. One of the bolts in your video had aluminum stuck in it...this is a bad, bad sign if it came from the block you're trying to now fix. That aluminum is block threads that were pulled out. Wherever that bolt came from (this engine or the other) has a bad set of threads.

Clean the bolts holes chemically. This means brake cleaner and compressed air.

Try threading the bolts in the holes. If they go in smoothly, that's good.

If they don't, you can try cleaning the threads by threading a tap, or fabricating a thread chaser from an old bolt as previously described. If you pu force on the tap, then you're not cleaning anymore - you're cutting new threads.

That's bad.

Once the block threads are cleaned up - you need to look at them. Make certain they're intact for the whole length that they should be. The threads are deep in the block. Strong light is needed. Those front holes worry me. The thread length should be the same as the holes in the rear of the block.

If the tap mets resistance, or the threads aren't full length, then you have a major problem with the block holes. That problem can be fixed with an insert, or a new engine.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: Astro14
Joseph - there is a chance that this engine (and therefore car) is not worth saving. You don't want to believe that, so I'm trying to walk you through the process of installing the head and that starts with checking the bolts and holes. There are dozens of subsequent steps, but go back to my discussion of torque and stretch - if you can't properly bolt this up, it will leak.

*snip*


Astro, did you see the video posted earlier? If not, I suggest watching it. That is THIS CAR, and I believe the crack-addled stoner with the drill and tap is Antonio.
 
I cringed watching it...so, the chance that this engine has messed up threads is very, very good...

I don't understand what makes this car worth saving. It's worth about $100. That's what it was worth a year ago when the OP GOT IT.

OP has spent hundreds on it, with a headlight and new engine, and mechanical work, so that now...

It's worth $100

Joseph, there is a serious question here.

How much have you spent on this? If you add up all those expenditures, couldn't you have bought another car? One that is running?

I want to help you...and you want to fix this car...but you would be best served to be objective about this: take the steps I posted above.

Figure out what you're actually working with..maybe you can save this poor thing, or maybe, just maybe, it's time to junk this car, walk for a few months, save your money and buy something that runs without you having to do any work to it first.

You're confusing activity and spending money with progress. But you're like a football team running back and forth across the field on the 10 yard line - lots of effort. No progress towards the goal.

The goal is a running car.

Direct your effort towards figuring out what you've got here. Stocking up on MMO, buying oil changes that aren't needed, posting videos, these things do not move you towards that goal of having a car that runs. Please follow the advice you've been given and let's move that ball toward the goal instead of frenetic running around on the field without downfield progress...
 
I can't watch the videos anymore. Not going to drive myself crazy.

Shouldn't he be taking the head off and taking it to a machine shop? Maybe they can fix it. At least it will be in competent hands.

Cars around here go for $400 or so in scrap. And that includes a free tow. So if he could get $800 for the Blazer and Civic I take it and run!
 
Originally Posted By: Astro14
You're confusing activity and spending money with progress. But you're like a football team running back and forth across the field on the 10 yard line - lots of effort. No progress towards the goal.

The goal is a running car.


Lots of wisdom in the above words. Take them to heart.
 
Originally Posted By: Astro14

It's worth $100


truth, about 4 dollars per 100 lb at the scrapyard
 
Originally Posted By: Ramblejam
For the sake of Overkill, Astro, and everyone else providing their time and knowledge...watch the video:





OMG this block is now done!

The only hope might be to drill and rethread to the next size. Not worth it, and i think past the skill level of the op.
 
Last edited:
Wow, just wow!. Every single time this guy manages to get BITOG, every single time!
It is entertaining, I admit, but I hope people trying to truly help and spend time giving proper guidence realize that their time is totally wasted.

This guy is taking trolling to the new heights.
 
I keep hoping. Yes, I know I'm investing my time and that costs me something. But the guy clearly needs some direction with this problem. Clearly needs the help.

The choice then, is to cut him loose, or to keep trying...

I choose to keep trying.

Despite our inability to solve the Volvo's problems...I think the right thing to do is keep trying...
 
This place has a 95 Civic coupe for $3k. Push, pull, drag the other two vehicles there and see if they will do a trade. Negotiate the dealer down to $2k for the 95 minus $1k for the trade ins and you owe them $1k and get a running Civic.

http://www.autotradecorp.com/1995_Honda_Civic_Nanuet_NY_254190726.veh

Maybe start the negotiations by showing them detailed pics of the trades. Throw current civic back together as best you can. Dealer prob only has a $1k into the 95 Civic so this may work. Wheeling and dealing with them will be more fun than your current plight.

They even have a credit app and two spots for trade ins:

https://secure.carsforsale.com/finance.aspx?sid=35778&jesxel=505468&hla=0&bgcolor=%23ffffff&lid=-1&vid=-1
 
Originally Posted By: KrisZ
Wow, just wow!. Every single time this guy manages to get BITOG, every single time!
It is entertaining, I admit, but I hope people trying to truly help and spend time giving proper guidence realize that their time is totally wasted.

This guy is taking trolling to the new heights.
That was clear long ago.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

R
Direct injection engine struggles to warm up(Mazda 2.5NA) am I overreacting?
2 3
Replies
40
Views
2K
Rally2045
R
Bad news on top of more bad news.
2 3
Replies
53
Views
3K
R18Civic
G
Oil pan bolt threads are weak, going to install a Fumoto valve. How to make sure it stays?
2
Replies
30
Views
3K
srfdude
J
2012 Ford Edge 3.7 AWD Head Gasket Replacement
Replies
5
Views
2K
nthach
W
Duramax LML possible head gasket and piston issues
2
Replies
25
Views
6K
ElectroMechanoMan
Back
Top