Oil pan bolt threads are weak, going to install a Fumoto valve. How to make sure it stays?

[Gasbuggy]

I have a 06 Accord EX-L V6 that my parents bought in 09. I llost a piece of oil pan thread on the last oil change. As I found out later, these Honda aluminum pan threads are notoriously weak. When I last put the pan bolt in I could tell I wasn't hitting that tight feeling, I was gentle. I ordered a Fumoto valve for the next oil change, which is coming up. I would like to know if anyone has done something like this before with compromised pan threads;

I was considering draining the oil in the garage and letting it sit with the plug out for a day. Lift the rear of the car up so any remaining oil won't come towards the drain. Clean off around the threads with brakekleen etc. Then put the Fumoto valve in with something on its threads, anything from Panel Bond which is oil resistant and would be permanent. To Black RTV, to self-fusing silicon tape. I'm inclined to use the Panel Bond since I know someone who did just this with some Pig Putty (an epoxy stick) and a Fumoto many years ago on their truck and it has never leaked. I trust 3M Panel Bond above just about anything as far as strength and longevity goes, and I have an open tube in my gun right now.

The downside of using something permanent is of course, if the Fumoto valve has an issue. My luck I'll install one that is defective.

My alternatives will be to replace the pan which is a big job or buy a kit and do an insert, which looks difficult to do on your back. All could still be done after trying this if needed.

Thoughts?

This Accord barely feels broken in at close to 190,000 miles. I just gave the front end a respray with some base coat mixed into the clear and she is really looking good for her age.

 

[billt460]

The only issue I see with using any type of thread bonding agent or sealant on the Fumoto Valve, is that oil is going to drip on to the threaded area before the agent has time to cure, thereby contaminating it.

Even if you allow an overnight drain, and shift the vehicle's position around, it's still going to get in over a several hour period. Is the pan itself difficult to replace? If at all possible, that's the best, albeit the most costly solution. Especially if accompanied with a Valvomax Drain System.

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[captainbeandip]

I think your idea should work good enough, especially for a car with 200,000 miles on it. I was going to suggest using JB Weld as your pipe dope, but only because I've never heard of Panel Bond, but it sounds like that stuff is probably better, so I say GO OR IT!

 

[GMBoy]

You could re-tap the hole and use a slightly larger drain plug all for about $10-15.

 

[Trav]

If there is room I would just use a Helicoil, they are very easy to do, permanent and inexpensive. Using some sort of sealer or panel bonder to hold something in weak threads is a bad idea.

 

[Astro14]

If there is room I would just use a Helicoil, they are very easy to do, permanent and inexpensive. Using some sort of sealer of panel bonder to hold something in weak threads is a bad idea.

+1

 

[jeepman3071]

If there is room I would just use a Helicoil, they are very easy to do, permanent and inexpensive. Using some sort of sealer of panel bonder to hold something in weak threads is a bad idea.

+1

They sell kits specifically for those Honda V6's on Amazon with everything you need. I bought one for my sister's 2003 Acura 3.2TL since the plug threads are stripped.

 

[D60]

I too was confused as to why actual thread repair wasn't the obvious answer?

I put a Timesert in a 3.0 Duratec aluminum pan ('05 Freestyle/Five-Hundred) and then you're done. Essentially steel threads in aluminum.....

 

[The Critic]

I would replace the pan. A 2006 is getting old enough to need an oil pump reseal soon and the oil pan needs to come off for that job.

 

[Gasbuggy]

You could re-tap the hole and use a slightly larger drain plug all for about $10-15.

That is news to me, I thought I needed a Time-Sert kit (which I believe costs as much as a new pan) and from what I read, you get one shot to do it right, screw up, you need a new oil pan. The exhaust has be dropped too for this, which is what I want to avoid getting into.

 

[The Critic]

You could re-tap the hole and use a slightly larger drain plug all for about $10-15.

Tapped threads are very very weak and would not be suitable for regular removal/install.

 

[Gasbuggy]

I would replace the pan. A 2006 is getting old enough to need an oil pump reseal soon and the oil pan needs to come off for that job.

You are correct. If I do that job, I'd like to do the Timing Belt and Water Pump at the same time and they're not due for about another 40,000 miles.

 

[The Critic]

You are correct. If I do that job, I'd like to do the Timing Belt and Water Pump at the same time and they're not due for about another 40,000 miles.

If it has been more than 7 years, it is a good excuse to do the job now.

 

[Gasbuggy]

Here we go, some cheap temporary ingenuity

 

[fdcg27]

I thought that there was a drain plug with a longer threaded section to engage the threads deeper in the pan not normally used for exactly this problem, since this is a common issue and Honda provided for it.

 

[D60]

I'd personally have no qualms with just stepping up a size with a hand tap (shrug). Honestly the biggest concern is tapping square so your new plug seats on its flange head.

I just use thread repair to maintain OEM size -- and steel inserts in Al are a bonus.

But I'm just a white trash machinist (can I say that? Can I identify as white if I am??) so maybe I'm wrong. Who knows......

YMMV

 

[pbm]

Several years ago I had a similar issue with the drain bolt on my Corolla's AT pan. I used Permatex Form-a-Gasket
sealant on the bolt and it never leaked a drop since.

 

[Gasbuggy]

An update/resolution. When I changed the oil this week, the threads were loose in there, not attached. Strangely, it seems that I lost the outter 70% of the thread depth, but there was still perfect shallow threading there. The old pan bolt was able to thread in normally and feel secure. Much to my amazement.

I bought this intentionally slightly oversized hollow pan bolt. Seems to be a secure solution. Keeps me from having to drop this oil pan and do a timesert.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0C5HFGXD6?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

 

[The Critic]

Are there at least 2-3 threads nearest the head of the bolt?

I have been burned in situations like this. It will feel fine for now, but without enough threads, the bolt will loosen up after some heat cycling.

 

[JimPghPA]

If you followed your original idea of draining the oil very well and then jacking up the car and then clean the hole with drugstore alcohol, then insert a Fumoto or a Valv-O-Max valve with a generous covering of Loctite E-20 HP epoxy it would hold. You'll have to buy the dispensing gun if you don't have one already or don't know anyone that have one. Loctite E20- HP is such a good epoxy that it's worth buying the dispensing gun could you get many years of use from it.

Loctite E20-HP can handle heat and oil with no problem and it bonds to just about anything except waxy Plastics such as polyethylene.

You can buy Loctite E20 - HP from McMaster-Carr along with the dispensing gun.

Valve-O-Max is probably a better valve to get than a famoto valve because the right angled for Fumoto valves are a crapshoot about what angle the valve ends up pointing at with respect to the threads that are in the drain hole and how they valve happens to align with those threads. Valve o Max it's just a straight shot but it has a second piece that you have to attach each time you use it so you have to make sure you keep it someplace where you're not going to lose it. I installed a famoto valve on my 2016 Honda CRV and I had to drastically over tighten the valve in order to get the angle of the output nipple to be pointing in a good direction. Since the valve was made out of brass I was seriously concerned about breaking it off but I was lucky that that did not happen. If I had it to do over again I would go with valve o max.