HPL Engine cleaner / 2015 Volvo XC60 high oil consumption progress report

A wild guess to try to be helpful ( as it seems the oil control rings may be carbonized in some way, from what I could gather): pour GM top end cleaner into the spark plug holes and let it sit overnight. It should seep through to the sump. Change the oil the following day and then start the car. Let it warm up but then drive it hard - the top end cleaner may have freed up the rings enough to let the combustion process blow out the deposits, so to Speak. If this is off base, just disregard. i admire someone who doesn’t just throw in the towel. Good luck!
Hey ravl,
I have had the same train of thought and you are not off base by any means. I am going to follow my current plan of attack and go one more round when a complete oil change is due and see what the results are. It might be I just have to stick it out till the results get better.
I always said one thought leads to another when in a group discussion. Never hold back on your thoughts.
 
I disagree with the post above. Don't add anything else. The whole point of the EC is that it cleans those oil rings. With it doing so, it is common to see increased consumption initially. For a while now, the crud on the rings has been acting as a seal. With it being cleaned up, more oil will pass by until it's removed enough for the oil ring to become unstuck and seal better. Keep the course. This is normal.
Hey RYD,
Thanks for your encouraging words of wisdom. That's what makes BITOG such a great place to share ideas thoughts and experiences.
I would have no idea which way to go without others experience. I will stay he course and keep y'all posted.
 
Another recommended cleaner is BG EPR. Friend (VW dealer mechanic) uses it for the oil burners that come in. I think he said it was a TSB they had. You could do that at the end of your current OCI. Instructions iirc are 15-20 minutes at 1500-2000 rpm then drain and replace oil and filter.

I don't know about on carbon or caked rings but saw this video yesterday about BG Dynamic Engine Cleaner for sludge.
 
in the same topic another one used LM Proline Flush with good results also.
I did use LM Proline on my second oil change and I will not say it did not work, but in my scenario it will take more than
one cycle to help the cleaning along. 15 minutes is not a lot of time to penetrate harden carbon deposits. The sucky part
is we can't see inside the engine to see exactly what is happening from start to finish....
 
i did a hot berrymans soak in the women’s accord and what i vacuumed out after letting it sit was disgusting. i changed a lot of variables with the EPR flushes and marvel mystery oil but so far we drove 500 miles on saturday at 90mph and it hasn’t burned a drop. prior to the last EPR flush and berrymans soak it was 1qt/1000m. i got the engine good and hot and dumped the berrymans down the spark plug holes and kept topping it up
until my bottle was empty. keep your nose clear and have gloves on because vapors boil out and will burn your eyes/nose. after letting it soak until the boiling stopped, i rotated the crank by the balancer bolt by 360°, vacuumed it all out, ran it on the starter and put the plugs back in. let it warm up (smoking like crazy) then dumped the EPR in and did a 2k rpm 20 minute flush.
 
I did use LM Proline on my second oil change and I will not say it did not work, but in my scenario it will take more than
one cycle to help the cleaning along. 15 minutes is not a lot of time to penetrate harden carbon deposits. The sucky part
is we can't see inside the engine to see exactly what is happening from start to finish....
I will try and find a YouTube video and link it up that showed a bloke soak his Audi to get rid of deposits that were causing oil usage

I can’t remember the additive name

Did a quick search

It was Eurotrash Motorsports and it was Berrymans B12 Chemtool
 
do all these cleaners contain chemicals that are bad for valve stem seals? i have a suddenly not normal consumption,1 lt /3000 km .its not tragic but it is there.so 2 mechanics i asked they say ,my engine is prone to valve stem seals damage.the other said that it could be springs.,another known issue with this engine.before going to mechanics and measuring compression and so on, i am thinking of trying these products first.
 
do all these cleaners contain chemicals that are bad for valve stem seals? i have a suddenly not normal consumption,1 lt /3000 km .its not tragic but it is there.so 2 mechanics i asked they say ,my engine is prone to valve stem seals damage.the other said that it could be springs.,another known issue with this engine.before going to mechanics and measuring compression and so on, i am thinking of trying these products first.
Not HPL Engine Cleaner, the other engine cleaners, I do not have any idea about them.
 
And why exactly does he need a new engine ?

Because of 1/4 of oil use in 500miles?
I believe he was responding to Astro14's post and what the inexperienced Volvo tech did to his engine.
Somebody correct me if am wrong.
 
Would you be kind as to elaborate why? Assuming you understand the 2015 4 cylinder piston/rind drain issues, fire away - I all ears...
I’m a mechanic and have come across plenty of oil-burning Volvos. The early VEA engines had extremely low tension piston rings to reduce internal friction, which resulted in oil consumption issues. An oil with a higher HTHS viscosity often really helps reduce the amount of oil they burn. I’ve successfully reduced oil consumption in this way in both petrol and diesel VEA engines. A C3 is perfect as it’s low SAPS like the factory C5 0W-20, but HTHS is 3.5 min.

Trust me, try a quality 5W-30 or 0W-30 C3 (ideally with VW 504/507 or similar OEM spec) and see how you go. Won’t hurt to try it!
 
I’m a mechanic and have come across plenty of oil-burning Volvos. The early VEA engines had extremely low tension piston rings to reduce internal friction, which resulted in oil consumption issues. An oil with a higher HTHS viscosity often really helps reduce the amount of oil they burn. I’ve successfully reduced oil consumption in this way in both petrol and diesel VEA engines. A C3 is perfect as it’s low SAPS like the factory C5 0W-20, but HTHS is 3.5 min.

Trust me, try a quality 5W-30 or 0W-30 C3 (ideally with VW 504/507 or similar OEM spec) and see how you go. Won’t hurt to try it!
Hi YZJB, thank you for sharing your thoughts and experience.
I am by no means arguing your train of thought and results but only talking about my train of thoughts with desired outcome.

I been staying with Ow20 oil to keep the oil thin while I am using HPL EC 30W engine cleaner in hopes it will clean the piston and ring oil drain holes. It may take a few rounds to accomplish. I would like to know if the oil that doesn't drain behind the rings or any area can get coked up. If the piston oil ring can get hot enough in it's location, it could feasibly push the ring out and cause early ring wear. The reduced oil drainage may even keep the piston from cooling. If all this doesn't work, I will try a cylinder soak that will open up the drain holes and clean up the ring grooves (at least). If I still use oil after that, I will go to a higher viscosity oil.
To go to a higher viscosity as an initial solution would be putting a band-aid on the problem and could cause early ring wear if carbon is an issue.
Just my thoughts here. Any input is always appreciated.
 
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