Here I go again.New ford truck burning 5w20 oil.

[Clevy]

Originally Posted By: donnyj08
Originally Posted By: nickaluch
Just playing this whole thing out.I,m hoping once the motor breaks in the oil usage goes down.My 2003 e350 cutaway used oil also on 5w20.started using 5w30 full syn and the oil usage went down,but didnt stop.The new truck does have 4.56 gears and a new style tranny ,the truck does hold the gear and rpm,s hang onto about 3500 to 4000 rpms.the truck has a reading 17ft box,so when loaded,which is every day,she is carrying some major weight.I do believe in the 20 wieghts oil, just not in this kinda application.


Given the gearing and RPM's that engine is running daily i don't see any issue with it vaporizing/burning of a qt every 1500 miles. that is the nature of running a big gas engine hard constantly. It will not matter if you use 5w20 or 5w30 in and application like this were the engine is cranked up to 4k rpms nearly constantly and under load, the engine is going to consume some oil. Use a good synthetic or motorcraft syn-blend because of the extreme conditions it runs under and stick with the 5w20 as per the engines spec. just keep a couple quarts in the truck to top off with periodically.

In my opinion this isn't a case of the v10 is junk or ford is at fault, rather a pure fact that this engine is being ran hard all the time. if it was a vortec or a hemi it would use oil too under these conditions, these are simply brutal conditions for a N/A gas engine. Keep oil in it and it will stay happy.


I would agree with this statement. If the v10 has an oil cooler I doubt very much the oil is getting to hot to affect film strength.
Give it 10000 miles. I'll bet the consumption a will slow if not cease

 

[nitehawk55]

Originally Posted By: donnyj08
Originally Posted By: nickaluch
Just playing this whole thing out.I,m hoping once the motor breaks in the oil usage goes down.My 2003 e350 cutaway used oil also on 5w20.started using 5w30 full syn and the oil usage went down,but didnt stop.The new truck does have 4.56 gears and a new style tranny ,the truck does hold the gear and rpm,s hang onto about 3500 to 4000 rpms.the truck has a reading 17ft box,so when loaded,which is every day,she is carrying some major weight.I do believe in the 20 wieghts oil, just not in this kinda application.


Given the gearing and RPM's that engine is running daily i don't see any issue with it vaporizing/burning of a qt every 1500 miles. that is the nature of running a big gas engine hard constantly. It will not matter if you use 5w20 or 5w30 in and application like this were the engine is cranked up to 4k rpms nearly constantly and under load, the engine is going to consume some oil. Use a good synthetic or motorcraft syn-blend because of the extreme conditions it runs under and stick with the 5w20 as per the engines spec. just keep a couple quarts in the truck to top off with periodically.

In my opinion this isn't a case of the v10 is junk or ford is at fault, rather a pure fact that this engine is being ran hard all the time. if it was a vortec or a hemi it would use oil too under these conditions, these are simply brutal conditions for a N/A gas engine. Keep oil in it and it will stay happy.


Being a former Ford mechanic this post by donnyj08 is spot on , you are going to see some consumption under those conditions and a quart in it's first 1400 miles isn't bad . Keep an eye on it and I'm betting you'll likely see a bit of an improvement but not much . What you don't want to see is it drop a noticable amount , then you know there may be an issue .
Also , in my opinion I wouldn't be afraid to use a good 5W30 if the Ford dealer gives you that in writing as per their recommedation .

 

[1999nick]

Most of my new vehicles burned one half to one quart of oil in the first 2,000 miles. My 1991 Ford Taurus burned a quart every 2,000 miles until it hit 20,000, and then consumption fell to almost nothing. I would not worry about this amount of consumption in 1500 miles.

What does worry me is why the dealer changed the oil, and why he was so quick to recommend a change in oil viscosity. This was probably just the odd dealer employee with a prejudice agains 20 weight oil.

 

[mechtech2]

That engine needs break in. I'll bet it clears up - gets better. Most of that oil use probably occurred in it's first 1/2 of it;s short life.
But it is a huge engine, nowadays.
It has to use more oil than the usual passenger car engine.

 

[OVERKILL]

Originally Posted By: skyship
Originally Posted By: SAJEFFC
I am willing to bet it was low from the factory. I work at a Ford dealer and they DO come low from time to time. I had an E450 30 ft motorhome a few yrs ago with the V10 and 4:56 gears. It weighed 13,000 lbs wet and I pulled a 18ft 3500lb race car trailer with it. It spent a lot of time at 3500-4000 rpms and NEVER burned a drop of Mobil 1 5W20. It is a tough torquey truck motor and yours will be fine. I've owned literally 30 new Fords over the years and never had one burn any oil at all. I'd just keep an eye on it and I'll bet it breaks in and doesn't use any more oil. Good luck!!


You do get bad new engines on odd occasions and the number of them has increased in recent years as companies back spec bearings et al to save money. The QA for some of the parts suppliers is not always good and they then finish up with a serious failure under warranty.
I've been shocked to hear what is happening with back specing to save money, as although the engine or box might look the same outside, the inside can change for the worse.


This engine isn't "back spec'd", it was designed to run on 5w20. It will be FINE and the consumption will likely taper off as it breaks-in.

Good God, the bloody fear mongering.........

 

[skyship]

Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: skyship
Originally Posted By: SAJEFFC
I am willing to bet it was low from the factory. I work at a Ford dealer and they DO come low from time to time. I had an E450 30 ft motorhome a few yrs ago with the V10 and 4:56 gears. It weighed 13,000 lbs wet and I pulled a 18ft 3500lb race car trailer with it. It spent a lot of time at 3500-4000 rpms and NEVER burned a drop of Mobil 1 5W20. It is a tough torquey truck motor and yours will be fine. I've owned literally 30 new Fords over the years and never had one burn any oil at all. I'd just keep an eye on it and I'll bet it breaks in and doesn't use any more oil. Good luck!!


You do get bad new engines on odd occasions and the number of them has increased in recent years as companies back spec bearings et al to save money. The QA for some of the parts suppliers is not always good and they then finish up with a serious failure under warranty.
I've been shocked to hear what is happening with back specing to save money, as although the engine or box might look the same outside, the inside can change for the worse.


This engine isn't "back spec'd", it was designed to run on 5w20. It will be FINE and the consumption will likely taper off as it breaks-in.

Good God, the bloody fear mongering.........


Everything gets subject to back specing to save money if it lasts too long. If you ask a top R&D engineer that works for Ford he will probably tell you that if you push the engine hard it should use a full synthetic 5/40.
Just check what Ford in the UK or Germany use for engine oil for exactly the same engine (The UK page of Mobil or the US page of Liqui Moly work best) to see if it was designed from scratch to use cheap dinoblend 5/20.
In most cases the only forward spec work has been done by changing all the advertising and manuals printed in the US to show the oil required by the CAFE bean counters.
Ford can't even afford to use the best 0/20 fully synthetic that will stay in grade longer as it kills the dealers profit margin. Even if they did quite of few of their own dealers would swap labels on the bulk oil drums and put the cheap stuff in. Money is real tight these days and even in Germany we see cases of Iffy lubes and dealers using GTX 10/40 or 5/30 when the book and bill say Edge only. A Blackstones UOA won't show the difference in an obvious manner between the two oils as the add packs look similar from the two 5/30's, it takes a full chemical analysis to prove the wrong oil has been used.

 

[SteveSRT8]

No matter what you hear, every car maker makes a burner once in a while. Randomly fitted parts come together in one engine and create excessive clearances, bad cylinder finish, etc., which mean oil usage.

Many times it is from easy break in, also, but that doesn't sound possible here. It is unlikely to be the fault of the factory fill, but it is highly likely you can control it with a higher grade oil.

 

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted By: FoxS
Originally Posted By: JOD
This same engine is rated for much higher loads in the motorhome configuration, more than twice what yours is rated. The oil viscosity specified is plenty adequate, and consumption on the factory fill really isn't that unusual. One of the motorhome guys said it best: folks need to worry more about the viscosity in operation and less about the viscosity when you pour the oil out of the bottle. The large oil cooler heat exchanger and 30 qts of coolant keep the oil temperatures low, even under heavy use.

I do find it funny that when random guys at the dealer make a recommendation regarding lubrication it's normally panned by everyone, until it's something with which they agree...then, the guys working at the dealer know more than the manufacturers.

And the rapid agreement by a few is so blatantly biased, it's obvious. Those same folks are the ones who shout from the rooftops that others should provide facts and make comments such as "claimed testing" when they provide no facts themselves just end their posts with "JMO"

Well JOD and others have chimed in with some facts that are helpful to the discussion and those folks will go away and never correct their mis statements until they find another post they can leap into and spread their gut based biases.


Hey Mark you're back.
OP give the 20 grade oil sometime to see if the consumption tapers off. If it doesn't it certainly won't be the first dealership recommending 30 grade oil for an engine spec'd for a 20 grade oil. Just get it in writing to CYA and the warranty if that's the case. Someone posted it could have been filled low from the factory, that should have been caught when they did the PDI, but sometimes they skip checking the fluids to save time and $$ at the dealership. That's just another reason why giving it some time is a good idea. 'JMO'

 

[Trav]

Originally Posted By: Skyship
changing engine oil yourself is near impossible, unless you pay a garage almost as much to take the used oil off your hands as they charge to change it in the first place.

Another absolute falsehood! Here is the LAW Stop telling far fetched tales to promote yourself. The only truth in your post is you cant wash your car outside.
Irrefutable proof.

 

[SteveSRT8]

Originally Posted By: demarpaint

Hey Mark you're back.


hahahaha, I wonder if he gets it yet?

 

[Clevy]

Nice work Trav.
Sunkship would be smart to maybe change user names if possible and maybe changing his posting style a bit,because it seems like every post includes some form of falsehood,and he'd be smart to just start over.

 

[Trav]

Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
hahahaha, I wonder if he gets it yet?


Naw

 

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
Originally Posted By: demarpaint

Hey Mark you're back.


hahahaha, I wonder if he gets it yet?


I'm sure he does. He'll be back, and his same friends will be right there in his corner, just give it some time.

 

[GMFan]

The truck only has 1,400 miles on it...my brand new 2.5L Mazda burned 1/2 quart the first 2,000 miles and a family members brand new Nissan 2.5L burned almost an entire quart in the first 3,500 miles. Both cars stopped consuming noticeable oil after a few thousand miles were put on them. Now my Mazda has 30,000 miles on it and the Nissan has 40,000+ miles on it and they don't use oil between changes.

I know these motors are different than a Ford V10, but give it time. Motors can consume a little oil when new and is nothing to be worried about. Just keep an eye on it and it should eventually slow down. Plus as others have said this motor is being run hard and it is only expected working it hard will use a little more oil.

 

[skyship]

Originally Posted By: Trav
Originally Posted By: Skyship
changing engine oil yourself is near impossible, unless you pay a garage almost as much to take the used oil off your hands as they charge to change it in the first place.

Another absolute falsehood! Here is the LAW Stop telling far fetched tales to promote yourself. The only truth in your post is you cant wash your car outside.
Irrefutable proof.

Thanks for that, as I will look up the current regulations because I asked the two shops selling oil in my local town if they take it back and they said no and that I had to take it to a garage. The garage then asked me for money to take the oil, so it seems they might be ignoring the law, although there are some local regs in my area that apply.
The only folks promoting themselves write qualifications on each post for some very odd reason.

 

[Cujet]

Originally Posted By: demarpaint

They also suggested the possibility of 5W30, totally going against what the OM states, what Ford recommends, and CAFE.


No, they simply suggested a slightly more viscous oil than 5W-20. One that is in fact, 100% recommended in markets other than the United States for the very same engine.

 

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted By: skyship

The only folks promoting themselves write qualifications on each post for some very odd reason.


Please explain. Who is promoting themselves? Thanks.

 

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted By: Cujet
Originally Posted By: demarpaint

They also suggested the possibility of 5W30, totally going against what the OM states, what Ford recommends, and CAFE.


No, they simply suggested a slightly more viscous oil than 5W-20. One that is in fact, 100% recommended in markets other than the United States for the very same engine.


True 100%, might improve the situation, and it won't damage the engine either.

 

[skyship]

Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: Cujet
Originally Posted By: demarpaint

They also suggested the possibility of 5W30, totally going against what the OM states, what Ford recommends, and CAFE.


No, they simply suggested a slightly more viscous oil than 5W-20. One that is in fact, 100% recommended in markets other than the United States for the very same engine.


True 100%, might improve the situation, and it won't damage the engine either.


It will be real funny if you could get the dealer to say on camera or in writing to use a 5/30, but I doubt if he will.
Does anyone know if Ford use a special break in oil for this engine, as it's real odd for them to change it early? If they do use a special oil there must be a set period it has to be used for before the first OCI.
I wonder what was written down about that oil change, because if it did not follow the Ford approved procedure and the receipt shows that, it will make a warranty claim easier. A lot of folks that get into a dispute with their dealer fail to understand that any verbal comments are of no real interest in a legal sense, just what is witten down. Oddly enough the best first move if you have a serious concern over a new vehicle is to send a registered letter (Or similar) to the dealer about the problem and reject the vehicle as unfit for the purpose it was sold for and copy it to the main Ford customer services folks. If they get that type of letter first it tends to wake them up and they pay more attention to the problem involved when you visit them. Every time the dealer says he will do something to help you with a serious issue, try to get them to write it down or at least send an e mail about it from their company address. If they repair or adjust something, take a good look at what is in the paperwork to see if it describes the problem and work done correctly, because if the fault occurs again that could help a lot if you are outside the warranty.
Early days in terms of the break in period.

 

[INDYMAC]

My 2012 Toyota 4Runner manual says up to 1.1qts/600 miles consumption is considered normal. I've decided that "normal" for automakers means they don't know how or want to fix it. That's frightening.

Luckily, my vehicle has not consumed any oil after 8400 miles. Maybe changing the oil at 600, 2000, and 5000 miles has helped with good ring seal.