Engine Motor oil flush additive?

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Originally Posted By: Frank
Anybody can have success using Auto-Rx with synthetic oil there is no problem after engine is clean and your now on Auto-Rx Maintenance Plan.



Thanks Frank. I intended to run a maintance dose with Valvoline Synpower 5w-30, after the clean/rinse phases.

Also, I'm not sure if I'm going crazy, but after about 50 miles into the clean phase in the miss's car, the engine already seems a little quieter. Lookin good.
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I thought as much. It appears that he just skimmed the thread regardless, judging by his reply to you, and so I thought I may as well make certain.
 
I like Auto-RX to keep an engine clean but if I did use a flush I think I would get the Lubegard Engine Flush which is supposed to not have solvents and instead just use strong detergents. But really what have people found that is better than Auto-RX?
 
I meant the valve gear that you can see through the oil filler hole. It sees splash oil only and gets little cleaning as a result. Don't expect much if that's your criteria for RX working. Cheers..s
 
tackleberry

sprintman definitely knows his stuff , and that is no lie. He has been a round here a long time and is well worth listening to.

What he just said is totally true. We can both learn a lot from him.
 
I just want to see if I notice improvement using ARX which I am sure I will. Based on what you are saying, (sprintman)ARX won't clean the head area much (underneath the valve cover). MMO did when I used it over a period of 6-8K or so. I'm just wanting to see if ARX will further clean the varnish out. I know varnish is not a big problem, I am just curious if it will clean it more or not.
 
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The fact that ARX has restored my engine's compression, by decoking it's ring packs and cleaning the valve guide seals, is all I need to know. I don't give a fig about varnish.
 
Originally Posted By: Panzerman
I would change the oil filter on my wifes car, about a 1000 miles from its due oil change and add a qt of MMO, an a new filter and run it a 1000 miles to clean it out. Then do a complete OC, with another filter. I dont know about running it the whole 5000 miles.


Lets think about all the things wrong with that statement.
 
Tackleberry, MMO has changed its formulation many times. It is not the same as it was many years ago. In it's crankcase application, MMO is meant to be used as a flush. At that job, it's not very good.
 
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What is the verdict on motor oil periodic flushes on newer vehicles. I know it should not be done on older high mileage and dirty engines or it will send bad junk into the upper cylander valves i think.

There is no harm in using periodic flushes. Reasons are, the solvent is typically low in volatility, so it evaporates quickly (typically during the draining of the hot oil). Any residual left over will not cause harm to the oil as the solvent will burn off by the time the engine gets to operating temperature.

Also, with all the posts on this forum, no one has EVER provided evidence that an engine was destroyed by "breaking loose" deposits and "plugging up" oil galleys.

There was one post on an old thread, where they used a 50/50 ratio of Mobil 1 and carb cleaner (they used it for a while, not just a quick one time use) and cleaned a badly running, badly sludged, truck engine up to the point where it was clean inside and no longer smoked, stumbled, or ran poorly.
 
Saying there is "no harm" is the same as saying they are completely bad. For my car, there IS a harm in doing them as my oil pump pickup screen mesh has openings the size of window screen. Anything that gets stuck in that is going to mean a reduction in flow to the pump. It's what's killed many a 9-5 and 9-3 motor. If I had an old Ford POS with a gillion miles on it, a stout oil pump, and a pickup tube with holes you could fit English Peas through, sure I'd flush it. But a car I care about and rely on? No thanks. There are just too many variables. Remember the Sienna guy? Remember all the oil changes he had to do before getting all the loose crud out? Sure, he got his engine cleaned up. But for the time and effort, not to mention the cost of all that oil, was it worth it?

Now, that only applies to flushes that actually work decent such as Berryman Chemtool. I bought a case of Neutra, based on its reputation on here, and I can say I didn't see any kind of result. Same for MMO and Rislone.
 
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Saying there is "no harm" is the same as saying they are completely bad. For my car, there IS a harm in doing them as my oil pump pickup screen mesh has openings the size of window screen. Anything that gets stuck in that is going to mean a reduction in flow to the pump.

Good point, I should have re-read it to clarify. Now, with the amount of people that have used biodiesel/diesel/kerosene/mineral spirits/etc. and never had any issues is worth more than people saying it is harmful without any experience to back it up. So I guess it all breaks down to opinions based on people's experience. The same could hold true for the "completely bad" mentality too, but no one reports any issues when using those flushes. Same goes for the acetone argument.

Now with your car, is it a sludge prone engine?

And the death of these motors, was it from people using solvents and it plugged up the screen?

Or are you just saying that a reduction in flow through the screen was the death of these engines?
 
Just saying it was a reduction in flow due to coffee ground-like sludge and rubber particles. I know of no one who has specifically lost one of these to solvents. However, the online saab community has beat it over everyones' head to drop the oil pan and not to rely on flushing. But I have no doubt on my car that if I were to try and flush it clean, the particles would easily clog the oil pickup. When folks drop the sump, they find hard, insoluable hunks of carbon mixed with hose rubber in the oil pan. If you were to rapidly release a ton of that, you'd be in trouble.

In my previous post I mentioned the Sienna guy. DO you remember all the crud he kept removing from dropping his pan?
 
Originally Posted By: BrianWC
Tackleberry, MMO has changed its formulation many times. It is not the same as it was many years ago. In it's crankcase application, MMO is meant to be used as a flush. At that job, it's not very good.


Where did you get that info from? I stay in weekly or biweekly contact with their tech and marketing departments and more than one person has told me on several different occasions that is still the same since 1923. Also, when adding it to your oil at each oil change, you don't have to add an entire quart. It all depends on the application I am using it in but a lot of the times I just add 8-12 ozs and it has never caused any harm to any engine and/or tranny I have ever put it in.
 
I have even used it in smaller doses (6-8ozs) in newly rebuilt engines (Chevy 454, 350s and other stroker engines for racing) that I have rebuilt with no problems. MMO use to be one of our sponsors.
 
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