Engine Motor oil flush additive?

[tackleberry625]

Originally Posted By: Frank
tackleberry I did not realize you had made a bet.Auto-Rx will clean
MMO off the metal .i am sure you will read the Application Instructions-FAQ and Auto-Rx Forum as you seem to be a fair individual.

I don't care if you endorse STP I just want a fair & balanced test. If I had known this was your only reason for purchasing Auto-Rx I would have suggested Dyson Oil Analysis do the testing (impartial) or perhaps Gary Allan (impartial) you could still do this as your product can be reshipped. Auto-Rx is real chemistry. In fact Richard Eklund in Tampa could do the tests. Auto-Rx will pay the charges. Let us know.


No problem Frank and yes I read the instructions several times. It was a friendly bet but I have heard so many good things about your product I wanted to see how it worked first hand. If it works better than MMO has for me in my personal experiences then I will continue to use it rather than using MMO. I guess it is one of those things that I have to physically see it for myself to believe it. Just like I saw when the old-timer introduced MMO to me years ago. I have said many times; if it ain't broke, don't fix it. I guess I have to have an open mind and come to the realization that times have changed and there may be better products on the market. Again, it was a bet but I want to see if MMO is still "the king", so to speak, or is something else (ARX) works better, which I feel it may.

 

[Oilgal]

Uh Oh tackleberry. You know what that means don't you? You will soon be a raving ARX fanatic, like the rest of us, who had their minds blown by how well it works.

 

[tackleberry625]

rut row........lol. I hope it works for me as well as it has for every one else, which I am sure it will. I bought it for the miss's car, which has 102K on it. According to the instructions, I should do 2 clean/rinse phases and for that you need 2 bottles. Well, my original plan was to put 1 bottle in the engine and use the other bottle (6 ozs of it) in the tranny. I guess that means I'm 6 ozs short for the other clean phase so I need to order 1 more bottle to do it properly. Thanks

 

[tackleberry625]

Originally Posted By: Frank
I just want a fair & balanced test.


I am not going to "fix" the test in anyway. My interiority is more important to me to do something lik that. I am going to follow the instructions to a T. Happy motoring.

 

[dwendt44]

For serious build up Auto-RX is the best. Most of us here shouldn't need that level of cleaning. MMO will suffice for the run of the mill jobs it was designed for.
And it's a lot cheaper too.

 

[Rick20]

Tackleberry625,

I am quite confident that you will experience great results running Auto-Rx. Tell us how you plan to compare the products.
ARX is designed to perform the cleaning of working engine parts as you drive. Typical single application is 2500 miles in the clean phase, followed by a 3,000 mile rinse. In the case of MMO, you are looking at a quick flush, I presume.

I ask this because ARX has positive additive contributions to the host oil, aqllowing for the safe to drive as you clean phenomenon. Oil chemistry of the host oil is basically unaltered.

MMO on the other hand seems to be a blend of Mineral spirits, Napthenic Hydrocarbons, and 1,2-Dichlorobenzene at some proportions. I don't see Napthenic oils used in modern motor oils. Mineral spirits don't seem to be something that I desire to run with my motor oil. And I don't see chlorinated benzene molecules as a good choice to add to my motor oil, either.

So what I would like to see is some UOA's on the host oils during your cleanings and follow up oil run intervals.

Imguess what I am asking is what is your test perameters?

 

[tackleberry625]

Originally Posted By: Rick20
Tackleberry625,

I am quite confident that you will experience great results running Auto-Rx. Tell us how you plan to compare the products.
ARX is designed to perform the cleaning of working engine parts as you drive. Typical single application is 2500 miles in the clean phase, followed by a 3,000 mile rinse. In the case of MMO, you are looking at a quick flush, I presume.

I ask this because ARX has positive additive contributions to the host oil, aqllowing for the safe to drive as you clean phenomenon. Oil chemistry of the host oil is basically unaltered.

MMO on the other hand seems to be a blend of Mineral spirits, Napthenic Hydrocarbons, and 1,2-Dichlorobenzene at some proportions. I don't see Napthenic oils used in modern motor oils. Mineral spirits don't seem to be something that I desire to run with my motor oil. And I don't see chlorinated benzene molecules as a good choice to add to my motor oil, either.

So what I would like to see is some UOA's on the host oils during your cleanings and follow up oil run intervals.

Imguess what I am asking is what is your test perameters?


Basically, the only "test" I am running is a visual one. Right now, when you open the oil filler cap of the miss's civic, I see heavy varnish inside the valve cover and I am just looking to see if ARX will remove it. I am not looking for better UOA results.

 

[Rick20]

Older Taurus Engine Cleans up Nice

I have used Auto-RX a couple times in the motor of this 200,000 mile 89 Ford Taurus SHO once or twice about 40,000 miles ago and once a few thousand miles ago followed by a rinse phase and then another oil change with some inexpensive Chevron oil that was on sale. I only kept that Chevron oil in there for a few hundred miles and then pulled the oil pan at 200,000 miles so I could replace the rod bearings for preventative maintenance. I didn't want dirty oil dripping on my face. A little wasteful, but it's much nicer working with parts that are coated with clean rather than dirty used oil. Very clean inside! It was obvious which places got a steady flow of oil because they were absolutely clean. Everything else had at most a light caramel colored varnish which wiped off fairly easily for the most part. Several years ago you told me about the easy to wipe off varnish for parts not constantly exposed to oil flow. There were a few small nuggets of carbon in the oil pan which were too small to pass through the oil pickup tube screen.
There was no sludge anywhere. My rod bearings were in pretty good shape too and of course they had no varnish on the bearing surfaces. I have been a believer in Auto-RX because I have been treated to a smoother, quieter motor following its use. I wasn't disappointed when I took the oil pan, baffle plate, and support girdle off and saw what could have been a picture of a well kept, very low mileage motor.

Found this on a search for varnish over at ARX.

Tackleberry 625,

I assume that you are going to do the recommended applications for an over 100,000 mile unit. I would look for the quickest results where there is the greatest oil flow. ARX is not volitile, so that no vapor type degreasing or cleaning will occur in areas appart from oil flow.

My first impressions of ARX came in the initial formula test done down in Daytona. It was a ragged old Civic, mid 80's vintage as I recall. We dropped a piston out and examined the amount of coked up oil between the ring set. Then reinstalled the piston/rod back and drove the unit 200 miles with a dose of ARX. Then dropped the piston back out. Although it hadn't cleaned up completely, the progress was nothing short of amazing. Of coarse ARX will work fastest where there is alot of heat, pressure, and oil flow. Top end parts take quite a bit longer due to less pressure and flow.

I am going to bet you will be pleased.

 

[BarkerMan]

“Basically, the only "test" I am running is a visual one. Right now, when you open the oil filler cap of the miss's civic, I see heavy varnish inside the valve cover and I am just looking to see if ARX will remove it. I am not looking for better UOA results.”

A bit of varnish is a cosmetic problem. Your lubrication will not be compromised and return flow will not be effected in drain back areas. Also there will not be any heat transfer problems and varnish will not cause thermal stress where one part rejects heat better than another part because of build up in that area. If you get all the sludge out and still have some varnish you have completed the job. It is not useful to go to heroic measures to get that last bit of varnish out of your engine. If you dump enough solvent in your engine to attack those last traces of varnish imagine what it’s doing to the rest of the engine.

 

[tackleberry625]

That's good to know about the pistons Rick20........I don't expect ARX to get rid of all traces of varnish, just want to see if it will get rid of some/most of it. I just changed the oil/filter today using GTX 5w-30 with a AAP filter. I am going to do the 2500 mile clean phase and then the rinse. Then repeat. There is no "sludge" inside the engine from what I can see looking through the oil fill hole. Lets see what happens.

 

[Oilgal]

I put on a new forward valve cover on my 3.0L this summer, and the forward cam looked very clean. I had no idea there were sludge deposits in the block, but it sure came out later. My absolute manifold vacuum, improved so much during the clean phase, it is obvious that ARX removed coke from the ring packs. The oil pan was also clean last time it was off, and the inside of the valve cover I replaced looked good too. I just didn't want to take a chance there was coke in the PCV baffle I couldn't see, and so I replaced it.

Moral of the story is, that the flushes I did made the cams and valve covers look clean, but the block had sludge deposits and the ring packs remained coked up until ARX.

 

[Frank]

Since I invented Auto-Rx (without solvents or petroleum additives) let me say we clean slowly and safely. Now if you had a double overhead cam engine pressure washing the internals we would get rid of varnish quickly. Bakerman said it quite well above.

 

[Doc8404]

I've used it in all three of my vehicles and can say i'm happy with it. Running maintenance doses now. I used to have photos of the galant's valvetrain and cover but photobucket closed.

 

[tackleberry625]

Has anyone had good success running maintance doeses using synthetic oil?

 

[Saturn_Fan]

Originally Posted By: tackleberry625
Has anyone had good success running maintance doeses using synthetic oil?


Good question. I was wondering the same thing. My guess would be that using synthetic would work because it would work slower because it is a synthetic but that would be overcome by the longer OCI typically indicative of synthetic oil users.

 

[Oilgal]

To be sure you should check out the FAQ on the Auto-RX homepage.

It wont work with some synthetics.

 

[sprintman]

I wonder why you are going to judge rx by looking under the valve cover which gets splash il only and sees little cleaning? Sounds like an 'agenda' to me. A compression test before and after woud be a far better choice

 

[Oilgal]

Originally Posted By: sprintman
I wonder why you are going to judge rx by looking under the valve cover which gets splash il only and sees little cleaning? Sounds like an 'agenda' to me. A compression test before and after woud be a far better choice


Hi sprintman.

I think you are addressing someone else right? I would never dream of doing such a foolish thing, and for just those very reasons you wrote of too.

 

[tackleberry625]

Originally Posted By: Oilgal
Originally Posted By: sprintman
I wonder why you are going to judge rx by looking under the valve cover which gets splash il only and sees little cleaning? Sounds like an 'agenda' to me. A compression test before and after woud be a far better choice


Hi sprintman.

I think you are addressing someone else right? I would never dream of doing such a foolish thing, and for just those very reasons you wrote of too.

I think he is referring to me oilgal. When I say "under the valve cover”, and me just doing a "visual test", of the rocker arms, valve springs and the base of the head where the oil drain holes are, etc. I did not mean literally the underneath side of the valve cover, after all, I can't see it without taking it off the engine. I have built too many engines to expect the actual underneath side of the valve cover to be spotless. I can see the listed surface areas while looking through the oil fill hole. I want to see if ARX will visually make the parts look cleaner. I did not intend on tearing the engine apart down to the bare block to inspect the ring packs and such after the ARX run.

 

[tackleberry625]

Originally Posted By: Oilgal

Sounds like an 'agenda' to me.


Listen, I am not hear to screw anyone one or "fix" any "test". I just want to see for myself how well ARX works for my application. Over a period of about 6-8 months, MMO has cleaned a lot of the varnish and such out of the engine and I want to see if ARX will clean it further because MMO seemed as if it stopped cleaning. That's all. I'm not here to bash ARX or any other product. "IF" ARX does not clean the engine further, then no harm done. I do not have unrealistic expectations and expect the engine to look inside as if it were a knew one. I want to see how it works because everyone talks of highly about it.