Changing spark plugs - do I need Anti Seize?

[NitroM3]

They weren't worn. I reduced the gap from when I first installed them. And Hyundai has the wrong gap and Denso pre gaps them at the wrong gap.. They say .044 and you will blow the spark out with that. They have since reduced it to .032. I do know my spark plugs and ignition.

Your responses make no sense on a basis of logical procedures to determine a spark plug gap. We can debate this all day long but your responses clearly indicate a DIY self taught method and nothing that is technically accurate. The mere fact that you are using only the values on your gapping tool is a support evidence to my response ! lol

 

[mightymousetech]

This application specs NGK spark plugs:

View attachment 66588

Pretty much all Honda’s will list a Denso or NGK, often both. There was a service bulletin clarifying that anti-seize was only for Denso plugs. Not really a fan of the Denso plugs. Almost every V6 I worked on where plug number 5 blew out of the engine, it was a Denso. Don’t think I ever saw it with an NGK plug.

 

[SHOZ]

70k miles

 

[SHOZ]

Your responses make no sense on a basis of logical procedures to determine a spark plug gap. We can debate this all day long but your responses clearly indicate a DIY self taught method and nothing that is technically accurate. The mere fact that you are using only the values on your gapping tool is a support evidence to my response ! lol

LOL it's called experience. Hyundai is who didn't know *** they were doing. At 70k that plug went back in and lasted another 30k. All you do is buy new and slap in parts?

 

[NitroM3]

LOL it's called experience. Hyundai is who didn't know *** they were doing. At 70k that plug went back in and lasted another 30k. All you do is buy new and slap in parts?

LOL wow, you only read what you want with my responses. That plug you posted is in really poor shape. You are only fooling yourself if you think other wise. But its your engine. ROLMAO!

 

[NitroM3]

and you are claiming "experience? wait the thought is is coming to me... wait......

 

[Knerml12]

Sorry everyone but it is a bad idea to put antisieze on sparkplugs.

All sparkplugs, that appear shiney when new, already have a special metal coating and additional antiseize can result in over torquing:

Here are all the reasons straight from NGK:

http://www.ngkplugpro.ca/content/contentfiles/pdf/NGKSP-0907-1R-Anti-SeizeonSparkPlugs.pdf

Read the spark plug directions. No antifreeze.

 

[slybunda]

If copper grease drops into the cylinder wont it cause huge issues?

 

[NitroM3]

Read the spark plug directions. No antifreeze.

Your absolutely correct... I would not put antifreeze on my spark plugs either . LOL

 

[NitroM3]

If copper grease drops into the cylinder wont it cause huge issues?

Most foreign objects and materials chemicals oils etc. will blow out the engine in the first few seconds of startup even bits and pieces of a broken valve.. LOL

 

[Malo83]

None when I put plugs in my SBC.

 

[NitroM3]

Read the spark plug directions. No antifreeze.

Honestly I love when members on forums think they are correcting me and my information then post examples that actually support my responses. LOL Please look again at your http from NGK. Hint the globs of anti seize on the threads! LOL
Dude really!?? hahahahaha!

 

[SHOZ]

LOL wow, you only read what you want with my responses. That plug you posted is in really poor shape. You are only fooling yourself if you think other wise. But its your engine. ROLMAO!

Time to block you. I've changed 100s of spark plugs and driven millions of miles.

 

[NitroM3]

None when I put plugs in my SBC.

Well depending on how long you have lived in Ca and when and if were into Performance, if dating form late 70's , 80's 90s' it is likely you have shopped at a Perfroamcne or general auto parts store that I either worked at managed owned or been in larger chain auto parts stores that I have trained employees in shop and counter positions. And you may have been like many that actually sought out my advise and recommendation on such things and especially SBC or BB engines. LOL

 

[Trav]

Read the spark plug directions. No antifreeze.

I certainly hope not.

 

[NitroM3]

Time to block you. I've changed 100s of spark plugs and driven millions of miles. You must have voted for Biden......

LOL I have over 100 of spark plugs in my personals garage so whats the point if you only change a plug here and there. Even my 9 year old niece can do that. There is no level of what actually goes on as the spark plug ages or is used in the engine.
I wear a Make America Great again cap often in pubic .

 

[Trav]

From 11 years ago, it is still true today.

My take on this whole debate boils down to this…


*Manufacturers install the plugs OEM dry, this save a lot of money over time/units produced and satisfies the needs of units sold in most areas of the country.

*Torque specs listing in manuals is for the most part for dry threads and after market packaging usually uses ¼ turn after seated based on these specs.

*There is a coating on the plugs to provide some level of protection from seizing in
most operating conditions.

The issue here is liability.
The manufacturers and aftermarket assume and I believe correctly that the plugs are for the most part being changed by DIY users without access to Factory manuals, TSB’s or torque tools.

If the manufacturer or after market advocated the use of anti seize the door of liability is wide open for the following reasons.

*They have no control over the type or quality of the product being used.

*How the product was applied and in what amount.

*How the DIY regulated the torque as not to strip or damage the threads.
This would be especially dangerous for the aftermarket +1/4 turn.

The following scenario is very possible.
Joe DIY buys 6 plugs, lathers them up good with some anti seize of the counter at the local parts store, goes home and puts them in +1/4 turn and strips one or has a terrible misfire because he got it all over the ground strap.
Joe takes the plugs back claiming defective merchandise or the instructions given damaged his threads.

It is easier and safer for all concerned to simply say install dry.
Chances are good that there will be no issues removing them and if there is the car will most likely be out of warranty anyway.

Liability issues avoided.

In the early 90’s some Honda motorcycles had issues and in the owners manual it specified using motor oil on the threads until the machine could be brought into the dealer and torqued properly with a little anti seize on them for good measure.

This proves to me anyway that when these issues arise they have no problem specifying the use of anti seize when it could cost them money.

Champion actually offers a ceramic based anti seize specifically for spark plugs used in aviation engines, the reason being IMO is that they know that it will be used by a professional and not a DIY.

In addition, if improperly applied it can cause possible cat damaging misfires which they could be held liable for also by the manufacturer and the EPA. Rather pay for a few damaged heads than go through that fiasco, again that would be something out of their control.

 

[CharlesInCharge]

I'm also of the opinion that the recommendations against anti-seize are almost entirely liability.

If there's antisieze on the plug or in the engine, and it's overtightened, damaged, etc. it is easy to point to. Most likely result is over-torquing, plug breaking, and/or internal damage. The result is often immediately known, and bingo, faulty part and blame.

However, without anti-seize, then the blame is easier to be placed on the installer or the person removing it, who are often not the same person and maybe the car has different owners as well. Then, blame can go in any direction. A "time release" bomb so to speak, that doesn't present itself for 10 or more years when the stuck plug strips or breaks. Then, the makers will say you waited too long, or it was installed too tight, or any other excuse that severs liability from the makers.

Absent PROOF, I'm in the club that says to use a little anti-sieze on the thread, I used a toothbrush. This helps installation and extraction later. I don't see how it can be harmful if you don't overtighten, which I don't.

 

[slybunda]

Ceramic grease not electrically conductive so copper grease best?

 

[Trav]

Yep, good stuff for plugs.