Changing spark plugs 2002 Honda CRV

[mrbreezeet1]

We are going to be changing spark plugs on a I believe it's a 2002 Honda CRV with a four-cylinder motor.
My buddy got Auto light spark plugs for it.
Is it advisable to use a small bit of anti-seize when installing the new plugs?
Also should the plugs be removed on a stone cold motor or is a warm engine okay.
Planning on torquing them to about 130 inch pounds.

 

[ctechbob]

I used to be pro-AS on plugs, but the last 2 times I pulled plugs out of my J-Series cars, they came out HARD. As in 'this thing is going to break off in the hole' hard. There was no damage done, but I decided that for whatever reason, it wasn't working on those two particular cars.

Autolight wouldn't be my first choice, but it'll be ok. Follow the instructions on the plug box for torque unless you know you have a good quality SMALL torque wrench. This is a 5-minute job, don't overthink it.

 

[mrbreezeet1]

I used to be pro-AS on plugs, but the last 2 times I pulled plugs out of my J-Series cars, they came out HARD. As in 'this thing is going to break off in the hole' hard. There was no damage done, but I decided that for whatever reason, it wasn't working on those two particular cars.

Autolight wouldn't be my first choice, but it'll be ok. Follow the instructions on the plug box for torque unless you know you have a good quality SMALL torque wrench. This is a 5-minute job, don't overthink it.

I have an inch lbs torque wrench.
Actually I've never used a torque wrench on plugs in my life, but I thought l would on this car.

 

[Kira]

Cold engine is the rule for aluminum heads now-a-days. I'd use it for iron heads too.

In my engine the plugs would screech and howl on their way out (aluminum heads). I got into the practice of cracking them loose and dribbling some 5-56 lube down the vertical spark plug well. Then I'd back 'n forth the plug to get the lube down into the threads.

They turn out silently.

I don't know if your wells are vertical. Even if they're not I feel the effort to run some thin lube down onto the plug (use a wire for dripping or a straw).

In scenarios such as these if the plugs were in for a long time and there was a chance of big carbon buildup, you could coax some Berryman's down the hole after the bit of lube to soften the carbon.

The anti-seize debate is akin to the "thick vs thin" debate.

 

[cptbarkey]

NGK or Denso. Adjust the valves. The K24 will go a long time if treated right.

Honda K Series Valve Adjustment | EricTheCarGuy

youtube}959I0wF5NH8{/youtube} I’ve done a few valve adjustment videos in the past and I’ve been asked about doing one on the K series engine from Honda for some time. Since my 2004 Element was due…

www.ericthecarguy.com

 

[kschachn]

The Eternal Anti-seize Question. There are also numerous threads that touch on removing the plugs cold but I didn't look them up.

Personally I have given up on a torque value and use the angle given on the box.

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[Hillbilly Deluxe]

First thing I'd do is go get some NGK plugs for that vehicle, the OE plugs.

You might want to crank the engine and let it run for about 60 seconds and let it sit for 7-10 minutes. Just need a smidgen of warmth on the head, this should assist in removing the existing plugs.

I have no qualms against using anti-seize. I would advise putting a VERY small dab about 1/2 along the threads, in one small spot. No need to smash it all up and down the threads, round and round. Just a touch, maybe use a Q-tip to touch the AS from the tube, then touch it to a spot on the threads. The danger is putting it too far close to the tip and it being exposed in the head.

Torque the plugs to about 13-15 ft-lbs.

Like was said above, a valve adjustment is probably due also. You WILL need the Honda valve tool, about $36 from Amazon. The Fel-Pro valve cover gasket kit works good if you don't want to buy OEM.

Take those Autolite plugs back...

 

[mrbreezeet1]

Ok thanks guys,
Thanks for the links.

 

[JimPghPA]

Here's a list of other things you should be considering whether or not they need to be done:

1) adjusting the valves, remember that on the K series engines the exhaust valves become tight as they wear and tight valves do not make excess sound. If an exhaust valve becomes too tight it will eventually get to a point where it does not completely seal. As soon as this happens you'll learn an unfortunate lesson that the Heat inside of a cylinder after the spark plug has ignited the fuel is way way too hot for an exhaust valve and it's corresponding mating seat area to handle. Most people don't know this but only after the Piston has gone down which causes the combustion gases to drastically expand which causes the combustion gases to drastically cool, can then the exhaust valve and seat for the exhaust valve handle the temperature that the exhaust gases will be at. So, if an exhaust valve stays open just a minute crack the extremely hot combustion gases will Rush past that crack and melt both the exhaust valve and the exhaust valve seat. If you're fortunate you only have to pull the head off and either get a new head and valves or you might get away with having the seat redone if it's not very well damaged and then of course a new valve, if you're unfortunate pieces of the melted metal we'll get down between the piston and the cylinder and score the cylinder wall and completely destroy the engine. Most k-serie engines do not have enough metal Left Behind the cylinder wall too hone them out to a larger size and use larger Pistons so if that happens the engine is toast. So, question is has it been 100,000 miles or more since the valves have been adjusted?

BTW, intake valves become Loose as they wear and a loose intake valve will not open the proper amount to allow the engine to breathe properly which will result in a reduction of horsepower.

There's plenty of YouTube videos about how to do this valve adjustment for the K series engines. You're going to need a new gasket and angled feeler gauges.

2) does the antifreeze need changed. Antifreeze can become acidic after a hundred thousand miles or 10 years. So if you leave it in too long it becomes acidic then it will attack the metal inside the engine and the radiator. That can quickly lead to destruction of the passageways and leaks.

Honda says to just do a drain and fill. Never use any kind of flush that will introduce ions into the system that you can't get out and will lead to Future corrosion. Also only use Honda pre mixed antifreeze.

Honda says that because you only get half of the antifreeze out when you do a drain and fill from then on you should be doing it every 50,000 or every 5 years whichever comes first.

3) while you are working on the cooling system and have it drained it is the proper time to replace the water pump if it's got 100,000 miles or so on it, and to replace the thermostat, and to replace the radiator temperature sensor and the engine temperature sensor that are both sensing coolant temperatures. Replace all the hoses. And when you put it back together install a new tensioner for the serpentine belt and a new serpentine belt.


4) clean all the sensors that are on the air intake system. And if it needs it put in a new engine intake air filter.

5) replace the knock sensor. You don't want one of them going bad on you because when they do it can result in the engine getting leaned out so bad that it destroys the engine.

Honda was kind enough to hide this in the back of most k-series engines so that you're practically working blind trying to find the bolt that holds it in.


6) change the tranny fluid and filter.


7) change the cabin air filter. People underestimate how important this is. A clogged cabin air filter will reduce the ability of the vehicle's air conditioning system in the summer and could get to the point where even drastically reduces the ability to defrost the windshield in the winter time.


After a complete going over like this including the spark plugs that you already mentioned most Hondas are good for another 100,000 miles.

 

[mrbreezeet1]

I'll see if he wants to do any of that thank you!

 

[JimPghPA]

Online parts sources stores including the ones that some dealers have set up the you pick the parts up at the dealer can save you quite a significant amount of money when you're doing a big job like this. Expect to spend about 1900 to 2200 for these parts. But again after a Honda has had this going over in general it should be good for another hundred thousand miles.

 

[slacktide_bitog]

Use NGK or Denso, and do not use any anti-seize.

 

[JimPghPA]

I buy NGK from RockAuto. I called NGK to verify that the plugs were authentic and not counterfeit when I did my nephews Civic. And the plug for authentic. RockAuto sales authentic NGK spark plugs.

And get the double iridiums. More expensive but they are the ones that last another hundred thousand miles.

 

[paulo57509]

FWIW, from NGK (provided RA is in fact getting NGK from authorized dealers).

 

[JimPghPA]

The reason the k-series Honda engines require valve adjustments every hundred thousand miles is because they do not have hydraulic lifters but instead are a direct overhead cams driving the rocker arms.