Grease / Anti-Seize - Replacing CV AXLE and would like to know best practice

Joined
May 25, 2005
Messages
1,274
Location
Arizona
I'm replacing a front CV Axle on my Buick LeSabre. I've read many posts and watched more than few YT videos.

I've seen a few where the mechanic sprayed the hub/splines with a light coat of copper anti-seize. Some have also used grease.

The install booklet (Yes, actually read that also) says never use any grease on the "splines". Soooo....

When installing an axle (splines) into a hub (splines) what is a good practice? Thoughts on this subject? Thanks!
 
I use nickel anti seize, it last a very long time. Brush it on the splines and install the shaft into the hub, do not use any on the inner trans-axle/diff end if it is inserted into the unit.
Makes sense! (Don't want to contaminate the ATF on the inner side.)

Thanks for the nickel anti-seize tip. Any reason this is preferred over copper? Thanks!
 
Nickel is higher temp rated and more corrosion resistant. Given your location copper would be fine in this application, in the rust belt I have taken cv axles out after 10 years and more that you could push the splines out with finger pressure where copper solidified more but it still did not seize. Don't be like this poor guy. LOL



For removing the inners these cheap tools work great, brand doesnt matter.

 
The ones that go in a transaxle get lubed by the fluid in the axle, so no grease there. (Proof lube is good for the splines)

I always use grease for the ones that go in the hub. I'd like to know why it was said not to? Maybe to sell more parts?

If someone thinks the grease is bad for splines they should see some of the large machines with sliding yokes in drive lines.
 
I don't use anything on the splines in the "non-rust belt." Never had an axle not push out, even stuff from the 90's

Unit bearings that fit into a knuckle bore are a different story....
 
Note - if you apply grease or anti-seize to the splines USE VERY LITTLE. To much can actually prevent full engagement due to "hydraulic lock up" where too much grease takes up space and actually prevents full seating of the CV shaft. Just a thin coat is all that is needed.
 
Appreciate all you responses Gentlemen! Thank you. Good info! I would agree it makes sense to use some form of anti-seize.

Noting that, The splines really do not slide "In & out" in normal operation. I could see using grease if this were the case. From what I've learned, Anti-seize is a grease with metal powder added. (Not to serve as a lubrication element, but to keep parts separated.)

The copper comes as a spray or a paste. Nickel is expensive. Another consideration is that Copper is not supposed to be good for aluminum.

Thoughts???
 
Nickel is higher temp rated and more corrosion resistant. Given your location copper would be fine in this application, in the rust belt I have taken cv axles out after 10 years and more that you could push the splines out with finger pressure where copper solidified more but it still did not seize. Don't be like this poor guy. LOL



For removing the inners these cheap tools work great, brand doesnt matter.


Dang! That video was hard to watch! (Obviously, this is why I posted my question!) It appears some anti-seize used by the person in the beginning would have prevented this problem. That think was mated!!
 
I don't use anything on the splines in the "non-rust belt." Never had an axle not push out, even stuff from the 90's

Unit bearings that fit into a knuckle bore are a different story....
It seems kind of random. It did the driver's side on our 2009 Mazda5 in 2017. It was an evil beast. I had a heck of a time getting it out. I ranted about them not using $0.05 worth of anti-seize at the factory.

Then a few years later (2021 I think), I had to do the wheel bearing on the other (passenger) side. One side almost totally seized in place in 2017, how bad will the other side be four years later? I was pleasantly surprised when the passenger side popped out of the hub easily. I have no explanation as to why the difference.
 
Note - if you apply grease or anti-seize to the splines USE VERY LITTLE. To much can actually prevent full engagement due to "hydraulic lock up" where too much grease takes up space and actually prevents full seating of the CV shaft. Just a thin coat is all that is needed.
Not true. About hydraulic lock, the end is open where the nut screws on.

I've seen very old anti seize cause something to seize, the oil will leave the mixture and all thats left is the metal particles. Then there is the galvanic action that can take place. And yeah you don't go crazy with the grease, thin coat.
 
At 6 minutes he use an oxy-acetylene on the axle. He should have used it on the hub. Heat expands metal.
 
Not true. About hydraulic lock, the end is open where the nut screws on.

I've seen very old anti seize cause something to seize, the oil will leave the mixture and all thats left is the metal particles. Then there is the galvanic action that can take place. And yeah you don't go crazy with the grease, thin coat.
My head was somewhere else. You are correct the ends of the CV are open. I was having a brain fart and thinking about driveshafts.
 
I thought this may be helpful for someone doing CV axle replacements, use a seal protector. Nothing like nicking the seal with the splines and have a leak after doing all that work. I bought about a dozen from SAAB for cheap, they are still available but takes a few weeks to get them now.
These are reusable many times and almost a universal fit, they fit SAAB, VW, Subaru, GM and many others. When using these I pull the inner joint out about an inch and insert the protector then remove the splines through it, for installation just put the protector in the seal and insert the splines, once the splines have cleared the protector just pull on it to remove it.

seal protect.jpg

The link to the ones from SAAB.


OTC 6712


Kent Moore J-44394​


 
I thought this may be helpful for someone doing CV axle replacements, use a seal protector. Nothing like nicking the seal with the splines and have a leak after doing all that work. I bought about a dozen from SAAB for cheap, they are still available but takes a few weeks to get them now.
These are reusable many times and almost a universal fit, they fit SAAB, VW, Subaru, GM and many others. When using these I pull the inner joint out about an inch and insert the protector then remove the splines through it, for installation just put the protector in the seal and insert the splines, once the splines have cleared the protector just pull on it to remove it.

View attachment 207663
The link to the ones from SAAB.


OTC 6712


Kent Moore J-44394​


Great idea! Thanks for the info!
 
The only time I've ever seen an axle seize to the hub to the point a hammer tap couldn't break it free is when someone drove around too long on a bad wheel bearing and the heat essentially fused it to the hub.
 
  • Like
Reactions: D60
I thought this may be helpful for someone doing CV axle replacements, use a seal protector. Nothing like nicking the seal with the splines and have a leak after doing all that work. I bought about a dozen from SAAB for cheap, they are still available but takes a few weeks to get them now.
These are reusable many times and almost a universal fit, they fit SAAB, VW, Subaru, GM and many others. When using these I pull the inner joint out about an inch and insert the protector then remove the splines through it, for installation just put the protector in the seal and insert the splines, once the splines have cleared the protector just pull on it to remove it.

View attachment 207663
The link to the ones from SAAB.


OTC 6712


Kent Moore J-44394​


So, is it actually inserting into the seal itself (because it seems like it would spread the seal too much?) or just acting as a guide to keep the shaft concentric to the seal?
 
The only time I've ever seen an axle seize to the hub to the point a hammer tap couldn't break it free is when someone drove around too long on a bad wheel bearing and the heat essentially fused it to the hub.
So Yea' or Nay on the Anti-seize? I'm seeing about a 50/50 response from many.
 
Back
Top