no anti seize either.
Changing spark plugs - do I need Anti Seize?
- Thread starter tripleM
- Start date
no anti seize either.
Honda obviously felt the application needed it regardless of what NGK claims about their plating. Good post.
So what do you do if the engine has both NGK and Denso from the factory? I did one 4 banger that the 2 middle plugs were NGK and the outside ones were Denso. I know they were OE because it was mine from brand new.
The FSM also specified anti seize but not just on these and not those.
Our 2006 TSX with the mighty K24 came with 2 Densos and 2 NGKs. Yup. Bought it brand spanking new in Dec 2006.
Great car.
Trav, did I mess up swapping the plugs with 4 NGKs? Asking for a friend...
No problem, I did the same and never had any problems.
When the two Denso fail, replace them all with NGK.
Just did plugs on my sisters 97 ITR. Plugs were original, came out like butter. Replaced with NGK (parts diagram shows both NGK and Denso options), should be good for another 24 years.
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Never had an issue with copper anti-seize. I use Dow(now Molykote by DuPont) 111 silicone grease on the plug boot(be it old school high tension cable or COP boot). It’s the same ish used on espresso machines, scuba regulators and water filters as o-ring lube and possibly repackaged as dielectric grease.
While clearly not brand new, I would not say its in "really poor shape" NItro.
I do see a lot of manganese deposited on the insulator nose. As if someone ran a bottle or two of prohibited Octane Boost
with MMT. As the insulator becomes increasingly less resistive with deposits, that might be a case to run a smaller gap to
prevent a higher misfire count. I would replace these plugs, not use octane boost and another tip , I always use a new plug crush washers if I pull to inspect cylinder, piston top and valve head condition.
I cant believe SHOZ dragged politics into this discussion. What you thinking man?
- Ken
Sorry to butt in, but out of curiosity, is this 06 Acura a shared 2 coil pack waste spark ignition or, instead, a COP?
I've seen these double ended coils on toyota, subaru and of course ford but not honda, But I don't service a lot of Honda products
I have been always of the assumption that Honda jumped from distributor to COP. - Ken
For me it's a case of "old habits die hard". When I first began working on my cars in the 70's, I never used anti-sieze (never even heard of it). Then in the mid-80's I bought a beater Buick with 350 V-8 that had a plug that was seized, so after that I always used it. However recently I put some NGK Iridiums in the Subaru and decided to follow the instructions and advice and installed them " dry".
Note that Toyota recommends NOT USING anti-seize. They say to specifically follow the torque specs. With that said, I did dab a very, very minute amount on the new Denso plugs I put in my 2014 Tundra at 75k miles (yes, I changed them early).
I'm about to do a 2015 Lexus with the 2GR-FE V6 and I will not use the anti-seize just because I've seen it said so many times not to.
I'm about to do a 2015 Lexus with the 2GR-FE V6 and I will not use the anti-seize just because I've seen it said so many times not to.
Coil on plug. Almost 2 years ago, one coil failed at 191K.
This has been a great car.
Ken it is a very in poor shaped spark plug. I can see that you must be a service mechanic of sorts but you IMHO are looking at it from a general set of rules to what a spark plug should look like instead of looking at the bigger picture the indicators that the spark plug is worn and would show a higher resistance and poor wave pattern if checked. One of the many things I do I do for a living is build performance vehicles. Ignition systems is but one of my specialties.
I am pretty much done with this thread and trying to help people. Unless I am quoted again! To many DIY keyboard internet wisdom learned experts for me to keep up on. I will continue to use anti seize on all my engines, my customers engines, my service techs will use it, and I will continue to highly recomend it use for anyone asking me.
Thank you for at least reading my response you commented on and as for politics'. On forums I learned a long time ago DIY always know more then actual experienced and educated members and when challenged they will bring insulates like the one directed at me about politics'. LOL
With you, some manufacturers specifically label on plug NO, the shiny coating is never seizing, the additional application can prevent a good ground and cause misfires. OVER torque also resulting in plug separation in some fords and head removal or special tool use to remove piece stuck in head. Champion, fixed this with a plug costing $20 each
I always use a tiny bit of anti-seize on spark plug threads regardless of the application, a little goes a long way. And not on the first thread toward the electrodes, but on the 2nd-3rd threads, you do not want that stuff getting into the combustion chamber. Mainly I use it because modern engines can go 100k or more on plugs, which could be 15 years or more depending how it's driven. I would never want to leave plugs in a car that long without some insurance against seizing.
That about sums it up nicely IMO. What I don't understand is people believing what is on the box yet many times pay no attention whatsoever to the owners or service manual when it comes to other things.
Okay, say you take NGK and Denso's word as gospel dive deeper than that. Who is going to come and get this thing out when it is seized in the hole or are they paying to remove the head and repair it. The easy answer is you are not them, even if you have the receipt you cant prove the plug was never removed or if those are really the ones you have the receipt for, the hole for them to get out of doing anything about it could pass an ocean liner through. JM2C
Okay, say you take NGK and Denso's word as gospel dive deeper than that. Who is going to come and get this thing out when it is seized in the hole or are they paying to remove the head and repair it. The easy answer is you are not them, even if you have the receipt you cant prove the plug was never removed or if those are really the ones you have the receipt for, the hole for them to get out of doing anything about it could pass an ocean liner through. JM2C
Sam_Julier
$50 Site Donor 2024
I’ve used a little copper anti-seize for over 10 years. I do not go the full time on the plugs on any car I’ve owned.
I’ve never had an issue.
I’ve never had an issue.
...and the battle rages on, 13 years later! I have always used anti-seize on my plugs, but then again, I have no idea how it actually affects them, because I've never changed plugs twice on a single vehicle that I've owned. On all the videos I've watched regarding swapping plugs, the individual uses anti-seize. I am sort of in the, "It will throw off torque specs", camp, however. I am also hesitant due to the whole dissimilar metals thing. Steel threads, aluminum heads and copper anti-seize. Probably not good chemistry there...I think I'll skip the anti-seize this go-'round!
Note my reply above from Summer of 2021. I did not use the anti-seize on this 2015 Lexus.
I changed the plugs in my 2013 Lexus LX570 in March 2022 and DID use a small dab on each plug. The plugs were pretty tight coming out and this was at ~115k miles.
I changed the plugs in my 2008 CR-V later that spring and again, used a small dab on each plug. I'm about to do another 2007 CR-V and will do the same. My Tundra is sitting at 169k miles and I will do the plugs in it soon and repeat the dab.
I believe that there is a zero recommendation to use it on many makes because most people smear it on so plentiful that it's caused internal engine problems.
