I used to but not anymore. The only time I will use it is on the 3v mod motors where the TSB instructs you to apply it to the barrel portion of the plug.
Changing spark plugs - do I need Anti Seize?
- Thread starter tripleM
- Start date
Originally Posted By: JustinH
Call me an idiot, but I have never torqued a spark plug in my life. Never had a problem with one either.
A lot of the newer motors I have worked on say not to use anti-seize on the plugs because you may overtorque it.
I just follow the directions on the box, usually 2/3 of a turn after seating.
I get the plug all the way to seated with my hand, not a wrench, and I have never cross threaded anything.
Some people are just over thinking it.
The OEM isn't using anti seize from the factory, and you should hear the moans and groans coming from the plug when it comes out. I ALWAYS use PB blaster when taking out factory plugs.
You don't want to break the plug off in the head.
I think you've pretty well summed it up. Like an old shop foreman always said "We're not building rockets here"...
It's pretty hard to over torque a spark plug when you follow the instructions on the box - 2/3 turn for gasket seat plugs and 1/16 turn for tapered seat plugs.
Now don't get me wrong here - I'm just as anal and meticulous as the next guy, but I also temper that with a dose of common sense.
Call me an idiot, but I have never torqued a spark plug in my life. Never had a problem with one either.
A lot of the newer motors I have worked on say not to use anti-seize on the plugs because you may overtorque it.
I just follow the directions on the box, usually 2/3 of a turn after seating.
I get the plug all the way to seated with my hand, not a wrench, and I have never cross threaded anything.
Some people are just over thinking it.
The OEM isn't using anti seize from the factory, and you should hear the moans and groans coming from the plug when it comes out. I ALWAYS use PB blaster when taking out factory plugs.
You don't want to break the plug off in the head.
I think you've pretty well summed it up. Like an old shop foreman always said "We're not building rockets here"...
It's pretty hard to over torque a spark plug when you follow the instructions on the box - 2/3 turn for gasket seat plugs and 1/16 turn for tapered seat plugs.
Now don't get me wrong here - I'm just as anal and meticulous as the next guy, but I also temper that with a dose of common sense.
Originally Posted By: The_Eric
...Now don't get me wrong here - I'm just as anal and meticulous as the next guy, but I also temper that with a dose of common sense.
Don't try that around here, it's not very BITOG-er like
...Now don't get me wrong here - I'm just as anal and meticulous as the next guy, but I also temper that with a dose of common sense.
Don't try that around here, it's not very BITOG-er like
Originally Posted By: The_Eric
Originally Posted By: JustinH
Call me an idiot, but I have never torqued a spark plug in my life. Never had a problem with one either.
A lot of the newer motors I have worked on say not to use anti-seize on the plugs because you may overtorque it.
I just follow the directions on the box, usually 2/3 of a turn after seating.
I get the plug all the way to seated with my hand, not a wrench, and I have never cross threaded anything.
Some people are just over thinking it.
The OEM isn't using anti seize from the factory, and you should hear the moans and groans coming from the plug when it comes out. I ALWAYS use PB blaster when taking out factory plugs.
You don't want to break the plug off in the head.
I think you've pretty well summed it up. Like an old shop foreman always said "We're not building rockets here"...
It's pretty hard to over torque a spark plug when you follow the instructions on the box - 2/3 turn for gasket seat plugs and 1/16 turn for tapered seat plugs.
Now don't get me wrong here - I'm just as anal and meticulous as the next guy, but I also temper that with a dose of common sense.
Agreed. On torque anyway.
My two cents on anti seize - I always use it, even though I change the coppers yearly. That said, they always come out easy.
TIP: look at your old plugs when you pull them out - all the threads that have combustion residue on them do NOT need anti seize as they are in the combustion chamber. Only apply to the clean area of the plug as it is the only area in contact with the head. In my case, that means only ~75% of the plug gets A.S.. Cant say for sure if it is good or bad, but I dont want A.S. in the chamber.
Originally Posted By: JustinH
Call me an idiot, but I have never torqued a spark plug in my life. Never had a problem with one either.
A lot of the newer motors I have worked on say not to use anti-seize on the plugs because you may overtorque it.
I just follow the directions on the box, usually 2/3 of a turn after seating.
I get the plug all the way to seated with my hand, not a wrench, and I have never cross threaded anything.
Some people are just over thinking it.
The OEM isn't using anti seize from the factory, and you should hear the moans and groans coming from the plug when it comes out. I ALWAYS use PB blaster when taking out factory plugs.
You don't want to break the plug off in the head.
I think you've pretty well summed it up. Like an old shop foreman always said "We're not building rockets here"...
It's pretty hard to over torque a spark plug when you follow the instructions on the box - 2/3 turn for gasket seat plugs and 1/16 turn for tapered seat plugs.
Now don't get me wrong here - I'm just as anal and meticulous as the next guy, but I also temper that with a dose of common sense.
Agreed. On torque anyway.
My two cents on anti seize - I always use it, even though I change the coppers yearly. That said, they always come out easy.
TIP: look at your old plugs when you pull them out - all the threads that have combustion residue on them do NOT need anti seize as they are in the combustion chamber. Only apply to the clean area of the plug as it is the only area in contact with the head. In my case, that means only ~75% of the plug gets A.S.. Cant say for sure if it is good or bad, but I dont want A.S. in the chamber.
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Originally Posted By: tripleM
Seems the responses are pretty much 50/50.
That's often the case around here on certain controversial topics. Antisieze on BITOG is akin to abortion rights on a political forum.
Personally, I have little patience for that anti-anti-seize crowd. I'll defend my right lube my threads as I see fit!
And if you disagree with me, then you're worse than hitler
Seems the responses are pretty much 50/50.
That's often the case around here on certain controversial topics. Antisieze on BITOG is akin to abortion rights on a political forum.
Personally, I have little patience for that anti-anti-seize crowd. I'll defend my right lube my threads as I see fit!
And if you disagree with me, then you're worse than hitler
Did learn something new here, at least as relates to NGK's which is what I've been using. Been using silver A-S on last two NGK installations, just a small amount, and a torque wrench on aluminium heads.
Doubt I over torqued them, but I'll likely pass on the A-S next time, but continue with the torque wrench. Considering that it won't need to be done again for some time, I'm not too concerned.
btw, thanks for the NGK pdf installation link.
Doubt I over torqued them, but I'll likely pass on the A-S next time, but continue with the torque wrench. Considering that it won't need to be done again for some time, I'm not too concerned.
btw, thanks for the NGK pdf installation link.
its not required, however at only $1 for a packet of anti-sieze and some peace of mind knowing that they will come out smoothly and not weld themselves in there, seriously, how much can it hurt? its really up to you.
things have a tendency to get blown out of proportion on this forum, you'd swear we were trying to decide if serving sliced dolphin was ethical...not whether or not putting anti-sieze on some threads is required. the world will keep turning regardless.
things have a tendency to get blown out of proportion on this forum, you'd swear we were trying to decide if serving sliced dolphin was ethical...not whether or not putting anti-sieze on some threads is required. the world will keep turning regardless.
Quote:
things have a tendency to get blown out of proportion on this forum, you'd swear we were trying to decide if serving sliced dolphin was ethical...not whether or not putting anti-sieze on some threads is required. the world will keep turning regardless.
But hey, it's Bitog where the devil is in the details.
But, I get your meaning, a little common sense with a little A-S, will likely get the job done just fine.
things have a tendency to get blown out of proportion on this forum, you'd swear we were trying to decide if serving sliced dolphin was ethical...not whether or not putting anti-sieze on some threads is required. the world will keep turning regardless.
But hey, it's Bitog where the devil is in the details.
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Originally Posted By: bdcardinal
I used to but not anymore. The only time I will use it is on the 3v mod motors where the TSB instructs you to apply it to the barrel portion of the plug.
May I ask why?
I'm about to change the plugs for the first time (in the vehicle's life) on the Expedition. It is now 8 years old, the replacement plugs are of course Motorcraft.
I used to but not anymore. The only time I will use it is on the 3v mod motors where the TSB instructs you to apply it to the barrel portion of the plug.
May I ask why?
I'm about to change the plugs for the first time (in the vehicle's life) on the Expedition. It is now 8 years old, the replacement plugs are of course Motorcraft.
I have removed countless spark plugs over the decades.
I have experienced MANY stuck and problematic ones.
Spark plugs have grown longer[more surface to stick] , and are usually in aluminum nowadays.
Heads are rather easily damaged by stuck plugs.
Because of this, anti-seize is of course a great help, but use it sparingly - and avoid the threads near the tip.
A cooked grain of wild rice [spread out]is about the proper amount.
I have experienced MANY stuck and problematic ones.
Spark plugs have grown longer[more surface to stick] , and are usually in aluminum nowadays.
Heads are rather easily damaged by stuck plugs.
Because of this, anti-seize is of course a great help, but use it sparingly - and avoid the threads near the tip.
A cooked grain of wild rice [spread out]is about the proper amount.
woops. i cover the threads.
Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
Originally Posted By: bdcardinal
I used to but not anymore. The only time I will use it is on the 3v mod motors where the TSB instructs you to apply it to the barrel portion of the plug.
May I ask why?
I'm about to change the plugs for the first time (in the vehicle's life) on the Expedition. It is now 8 years old, the replacement plugs are of course Motorcraft.
I asked a Field Service Engineer when he was at my dealer and then a SVT Powertrain Engineer that was a head designer for the Terminator and then Condor motors at a Ford track day who said that in their testing it caused more problems than it prevented.
Originally Posted By: bdcardinal
I used to but not anymore. The only time I will use it is on the 3v mod motors where the TSB instructs you to apply it to the barrel portion of the plug.
May I ask why?
I'm about to change the plugs for the first time (in the vehicle's life) on the Expedition. It is now 8 years old, the replacement plugs are of course Motorcraft.
I asked a Field Service Engineer when he was at my dealer and then a SVT Powertrain Engineer that was a head designer for the Terminator and then Condor motors at a Ford track day who said that in their testing it caused more problems than it prevented.
I always cover the threads and will continue to do so. It helps seal the threads that stick down in the combustion chamber. Seizing isn't the only enemy. If the carbon attaches too strongly to the spark plug threads they will damage head threads on the way out. Pulling spark plugs yearly helps knock this carbon off before it becomes tough enough to dig into the aluminum threads.
Originally Posted By: bdcardinal
Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
Originally Posted By: bdcardinal
I used to but not anymore. The only time I will use it is on the 3v mod motors where the TSB instructs you to apply it to the barrel portion of the plug.
May I ask why?
I'm about to change the plugs for the first time (in the vehicle's life) on the Expedition. It is now 8 years old, the replacement plugs are of course Motorcraft.
I asked a Field Service Engineer when he was at my dealer and then a SVT Powertrain Engineer that was a head designer for the Terminator and then Condor motors at a Ford track day who said that in their testing it caused more problems than it prevented.
It would have been much more helpful if they would have elaborated. Making a statement like that and not backing it with supporting information, doesn't exactly convince me (and others I'm sure) to not use it. Now if there were some facts backing it, I may change my thinking.
Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
Originally Posted By: bdcardinal
I used to but not anymore. The only time I will use it is on the 3v mod motors where the TSB instructs you to apply it to the barrel portion of the plug.
May I ask why?
I'm about to change the plugs for the first time (in the vehicle's life) on the Expedition. It is now 8 years old, the replacement plugs are of course Motorcraft.
I asked a Field Service Engineer when he was at my dealer and then a SVT Powertrain Engineer that was a head designer for the Terminator and then Condor motors at a Ford track day who said that in their testing it caused more problems than it prevented.
It would have been much more helpful if they would have elaborated. Making a statement like that and not backing it with supporting information, doesn't exactly convince me (and others I'm sure) to not use it. Now if there were some facts backing it, I may change my thinking.
After you guys grievously pull out a bunches of sticking plugs, no one can convince you to never use anti-seize.
Originally Posted By: mechtech2
After you guys grievously pull out a bunches of sticking plugs, no one can convince you to never use anti-seize.
Yep,try pulling out a plug from a alum head that's been in there for 70+k and see how many threads you take out with it!
After you guys grievously pull out a bunches of sticking plugs, no one can convince you to never use anti-seize.
Yep,try pulling out a plug from a alum head that's been in there for 70+k and see how many threads you take out with it!
I use it, makes life easier down the road. A little dap will do ya. I use a small artist brush and apply it only to the threads, sparingly.
Anitsieze is not needed but a slight film of any spray lubricant will pay dividens the next time you have to remove them.
