2001 Jeep Cherokee Sport (Father/Son Project)

This sounds like a situation where finding an electric fan and wiring it up with an RV solenoid with a thermal switch might be worthwhile. I had the big 'ol Mark VIII fan on my Town Car and it moves an obscene amount of air. Both my SRT and the 1500 only have electric fans, and they'd be more than big enough, provided they fit the rad.

Many people try doing electric fan/ triple fan setups but in southern states where it's hot they generally do not work very well. Also the XJs radiator is short.

The OEM mechanical fan has a ton of CFMs and there is a single electric fan. I find the the OEM system works perfectly so no reason to add complications.
 
Many people try doing electric fan/ triple fan setups but in southern states where it's hot they generally do not work very well. Also the XJs radiator is short.

The OEM mechanical fan has a ton of CFMs and there is a single electric fan. I find the the OEM system works perfectly so no reason to add complications.
So I assume a Grand Cherokee one (like the SRT one) won't fit? I mean, if it can keep my 6.4L cool, it certainly can keep that anaemic 4.0L cool.
 
So I assume a Grand Cherokee one (like the SRT one) won't fit? I mean, if it can keep my 6.4L cool, it certainly can keep that anaemic 4.0L cool.
Oh no, they’re very very short radiators. Like a 12” fan or something. In the XJ case the electric fan swaps work ok in cold climate, and you can free up some engine power by doing so. But if you could potentially go somewhere it’s hot, the electric fans can’t hold a candle to the CFM of the mechanical fan when locked up.
 
Got my ‘96 out of hibernation and have been driving it a couple days. It’ll get to just over 220* which I’m happy with, as it isn’t spiking like it used to. This is at idle. On the highway it’s at about 208-210.

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So I assume a Grand Cherokee one (like the SRT one) won't fit? I mean, if it can keep my 6.4L cool, it certainly can keep that anaemic 4.0L cool.
It is short (height wise) and long (see photo). The new one I bought is a three core all brass/copper versus two core plastic/aluminum OEM.

The XJ also has one electric fan and one clutch driven fan. We've been pretty lucky with his, the most I've seen it get to is 215°F and around town it's always below 210°F.

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It is short (height wise) and long (see photo). The new one I bought is a three core all brass/copper versus two core plastic/aluminum OEM.

The XJ also has one electric fan and one clutch driven fan. We've been pretty lucky with his, the most I've seen it get to is 215°F and around town it's always below 210°F.

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Wowzers, that thing is tiny! 😳 Yeah, no way a RAM or newer WK2 e-fan is fitting on that thing.
 
Wowzers, that thing is tiny! 😳 Yeah, no way a RAM or newer WK2 e-fan is fitting on that thing.
Yeah, the OEM fans are about 12-14" in diameter. It was not overheating but given that he is in VT and I am in CO, it was cheap insurance to change the radiator, water pump, fan clutch, and thermostat housing/thermostat.

It was not gone above 210 except on some long hills and it comes down quickly, so pretty happy with it.
 
Got my ‘96 out of hibernation and have been driving it a couple days. It’ll get to just over 220* which I’m happy with, as it isn’t spiking like it used to. This is at idle. On the highway it’s at about 208-210.

View attachment 172637View attachment 172638

Have you tried and radiator/block flush products? Thermocure might help you alot. I personally did the Mercedes citric acid flush and my operating temp dropped, though id probably just use thermocure next time.

 
Have you confirmed your temp sensor is correct?
Yes, with an IR gun and OBD2 scanner. The OBD2 port temp for the computer is off the thermostat housing. I have a nice dash gauge that reads from a sensor at the back of the head.

The problem is Arizona. When over 100* is when I have to think about it. Anywhere else in the country that tends to stay under 100*, I'd have no issues.
 
Yes, with an IR gun and OBD2 scanner. The OBD2 port temp for the computer is off the thermostat housing. I have a nice dash gauge that reads from a sensor at the back of the head.

The problem is Arizona. When over 100* is when I have to think about it. Anywhere else in the country that tends to stay under 100*, I'd have no issues.
Yep, these "vapor lock" regularly in Moab on hot days on the trail. Let 'em sit for awhile and they'll fire back up. Starting seems to be the biggest problem, so guys are careful about shutting them down in the heat.

When the XJ was in its prime as a family truckster you could drive to the top of any of the passes around me (~11k ft+) any day of the week in the summer and find one pulled off at the top with its hood open to cool. Now these would be towing situations, usually just small pop up campers. It wasn't a situation of exceeding tow ratings -- they just don't like heat + altitude + towing. But the 4.0 lumbers forever. Let it cool and then go flog it again!
 
Update:

About 5K on it now since all the mods/upgrades were done. He has driven from CO to VT twice now and it has had 2 oil changes in that time. System runs really cool and has been
At Christmas, we changed out all of the battery/alternator/ground cables because he had a grounding eye break. Upgraded everything to #2 AWG and installed a 200 amp fuse into the system. He changed out the rear wiper motor and both front door window/lock switches.

The oil filter adapter has a leak so when he returns for the summer we will have to pull it and replace the OEM o-rings. It seems to be a very common issue on these 4.0L engines.

We will also upgrade his brakes to discs in the rear because even though we replaced the entire system, the rear drums have less than desired braking power.

So far, so good.
 
I call BS on Chrysler, the p/s system on an XJ is stupid simple and a light hydraulic fluid is a light hydraulic fluid. There's simply no way the system can "know" or care what's in there unless someone can point me to seal materials or something that like p/s fluid but degrade when exposed to ATF
I put atf in my 2002 jeep and the pump whined. Drove a couple of days. Made sure it was full etc. Went back to ps fluid and it stopped whining
 
I put atf in my 2002 jeep and the pump whined. Drove a couple of days. Made sure it was full etc. Went back to ps fluid and it stopped whining
It was a $2 difference between ATF and PS fluid. It was a no brainer for me...
 
Update:

About 5K on it now since all the mods/upgrades were done. He has driven from CO to VT twice now and it has had 2 oil changes in that time. System runs really cool and has been
At Christmas, we changed out all of the battery/alternator/ground cables because he had a grounding eye break. Upgraded everything to #2 AWG and installed a 200 amp fuse into the system. He changed out the rear wiper motor and both front door window/lock switches.

The oil filter adapter has a leak so when he returns for the summer we will have to pull it and replace the OEM o-rings. It seems to be a very common issue on these 4.0L engines.

We will also upgrade his brakes to discs in the rear because even though we replaced the entire system, the rear drums have less than desired braking power.

So far, so good.
The oil filter adapter isn't too fun, it's in an awkward spot but do-able.

Just did mine last month. Bought a T60 Torx bit from Auto Zone and hammered the bit out the 3/8"? adapter, then used a crowfoot flare end with a ratchet, had to do it from underneath to crack it loose. And used my jack handle for leverage as it is tight. Probably dropped the bit on the ground 30-40 times.

Edit: Might be easier with a 2001. My '96 has the A/C lines in the way, a bit of a bastard year so it might be a little easier for you.
 
The oil filter adapter isn't too fun, it's in an awkward spot but do-able.

Just did mine last month. Bought a T60 Torx bit from Auto Zone and hammered the bit out the 3/8"? adapter, then used a crowfoot flare end with a ratchet, had to do it from underneath to crack it loose. And used my jack handle for leverage as it is tight. Probably dropped the bit on the ground 30-40 times.

Edit: Might be easier with a 2001. My '96 has the A/C lines in the way, a bit of a bastard year so it might be a little easier for you.
It will not be much easier, but I'm going to buy a stubby T60. How short was yours after you hammered it out of the socket? Have a photo?

Also, what o-ring kit did you use? I have a Fel-Pro.
 
It will not be much easier, but I'm going to buy a stubby T60. How short was yours after you hammered it out of the socket? Have a photo?

Also, what o-ring kit did you use? I have a Fel-Pro.
Same Fel-Pro. You only use 3 of the O-rings, not sure why the kit comes with 5.

I’m not sure you’ll be able to get something stubby enough to fit between the unibody and the bolt head.

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