2001 Jeep Cherokee Sport (Father/Son Project)

I've owned two 2000 Cherokee XJs and they were both great vehicles. I had a 1990 Cherokee XJ as well. NAXJA is a great community and I was a member for several years, lots of knowledgable people there.

I would stick with the TG16 filter personally, there really is no advantage to running the larger filter, besides maybe a tiny bit more oil capacity, which isn't an issue on this engine since it holds 6 quarts already. There are a few 4.0L's running around with 400k miles that just used the cheapest oil and filters available changed at the proper intervals.
Yep; agree. Good to have options and if I were to run a different filter, it would be the TG8A since it is as common as the TG16, but as you say 6QTs is decent as it is.
 
Sis had an '88 Pioneer 2-door. Primary red/grey interior with white wheels! The ultimate 'cute girl' vehicle.
Also, a '99 Sport 4-door. Black/ grey interior with 5 5-spoke alloys.
Both bought used. Both had the 4.0l, 4 speed and NP242 TC.
Neither ever needed brakes (Dad told us how to drive easy)
I did what the OP has done except for the suspension work.

How much have you spent so far on parts/supplies?
If I remove the wheels/tires/LED lights, about $3,300. There could be some things that did not need to be changed, but he will be on the other side of the country, and I did not want to worry about it.

I have a running spreadsheet with all of the parts/costs to share with him so that in the years to come, he can look back on it and see everything that we did together on it.
 
The original plugs were champions and the ones with the coil pack instead of a distributor are very picky about plug type. It does not use a pcv valve but has an orifice of special size that tends to plug up then they blow oil every where. The grommets on top of the valve cover get hard and leak. New ones are at every auto parts store.

The 0331 heads from 99- early 2002 model year often crack and leak coolant into the oil directly below the oil fill cap. If it hasn't already it's probably ok.

These xj's run hot!

Carry a spare crank sensor and the tools to change it.
Autolite XPs went into it, I did not check into what was OEM. I ordered the Mopar "PCV" kit with grommets and hoses to replace them along with the valve cover gasket that is leaking.

When I pull the valve cover, I will check the head casting number to see what I have. So far, his runs about 210F so not too bad. The coolant is a mess and will be flushed/changed soon.
 
Oh. Don't use atf in the power steering. It makes the pump whine. Preston power steering fluid works well.
Agree; there was zero reason to use ATF given that power steering fluid was only $2 a gallon more and Jeep specifically states not to use ATF. Two gallons later and the PS fluid is almost as clear as the new stuff coming out of the jug.
 
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First....That is a steal of a price! The XJ's are really increasing in value and a low mileage one that is in decent shape can easily cost north of $10k. $3,000 is a bargain! As a long time XJ fan and owner...here are some thoughts.

People get nervous about the cylinder head. If it has lasted this long it is probably a good one. Just don't overheat it and it will last forever. I would recommend replacing the radiator as preventative maintenance. Get an all metal one if possible. You get what you pay for.

Also, replace the fan clutch as well. An OEM one will be fine but if you want a little extra cooling, look up the "XJ HD fan clutch upgrade". The exact details escape me but a fan clutch from a ZJ or WJ V8 is a direct bolt-in. It engages the clutch a bit sooner and blows alot more air. It may reduce MPG a tiny amount due to the extra drag but it helps cooling quite a bit.

For a small lift with OEM ride quality, you can buy OEM springs and shocks for the "Up-Country" package. It was a 1-1.5" lift package from the factory and allowed for 30" tires. Anything higher than this and you will need to start thinking about adjustable upper and lower control arms to retain the factory suspension geometry. Keep in mind with any lift you may need extended sway bar end links also.

Also above about 1.5" you will need an adjustable track bar to keep the front axle centered.

Above 2" of lift you may experience rear driveline vibrations due to a less than ideal pinion angle. There are two ways to fix this. The best but most expensive option is a Slip-Yoke-Eliminator kit (SYE)...Tom Woods Driveshaft is the place to go. Or you can lower the transfer case an inch or so and put some shims under the leaf springs to correct the pinion angle also.
I plan to see how the flush goes before grabbing a radiator. I have been looking into a HD fan clutch but have not found a decent one yet, but the search continues. Most of the GC fan clutches I have seen have a different mounting type (threaded connection versus a 4 bolt flange).

Yep; the lift will come next summer so I will have plenty of time to look into it. My Wrangler is "all in" on lift and mods so totally understand the need for watching caster angles and having adjustable everything. I will stay with a 1.5" or less because we want it to be a bit more aggressive and capable, but nothing like the 3.5" lift on my Rubicon.

The bushings in the rear leaf springs are dry rotting as is the ones in the control arms so I will replacing those as well next summer. The OEM "kit" sounds like a sweet spot--appreciate the information on that.
 
I wouldn't recommend the Grand Cherokee fan clutch, the part number is 272310.

It's a direct bolt on, have to make sure the motor and transmission mounts are good since it sticks the fan a little closer to the radiator and the fan often times will poke a hole in the radiator. A bit difficult to get the fan shroud on afterwards too, and your knuckles will be a little bloody.

It didn't make mine run any cooler, but it as loud and I sounded like a garbage truck while accelerating. Could feel the power loss too. I put the stock one back on. Napa sells the best fan clutches for them.
 
I wouldn't recommend the Grand Cherokee fan clutch, the part number is 272310.

It's a direct bolt on, have to make sure the motor and transmission mounts are good since it sticks the fan a little closer to the radiator and the fan often times will poke a hole in the radiator. A bit difficult to get the fan shroud on afterwards too, and your knuckles will be a little bloody.

It didn't make mine run any cooler, but it as loud and I sounded like a garbage truck while accelerating. Could feel the power loss too. I put the stock one back on. Napa sells the best fan clutches for them.
Thanks for this. I have seen mixed messages about the GC on a few forums (just joined NAXJA) and they say the same--not to mention that I do not see a direct bolt-on model. I may just buy a new "standard" one and call it a day. It is working as is today so it would be preventative if I change it. I am currently running some Prestone cleaner through the system and will see if it cleans everything up. If not, I may change the radiator to a 3 core copper/brass model.
 
Thanks for this. I have seen mixed messages about the GC on a few forums (just joined NAXJA) and they say the same--not to mention that I do not see a direct bolt-on model. I may just buy a new "standard" one and call it a day. It is working as is today so it would be preventative if I change it. I am currently running some Prestone cleaner through the system and will see if it cleans everything up. If not, I may change the radiator to a 3 core copper/brass model.
Here’s a pic of it side by side with my stock fan clutch.

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In 2020 I put in the CSF 3-row from Rock Auto. Part 2671.

My whole cooling system is that radiator, Hesco High Flow thermostat housing, Duralast (Motorad) high flow 195* thermostat, FlowKooler high flow water pump, Napa stock fan clutch, and G-05 coolant. And in 110*+ heat it still runs 230+ at idle :ROFLMAO:
 
Can’t wait to see the pictures. We have a 2001 that’s the rare Solar Yellow color with 108,000. Been sitting since 2014 we can’t figure out why it overheats and shoots all the coolant out once you shut the engine off. The Cherokee specialist we talked too said in 2001 once they heard the factory was shutting down that they used subpar and seconds parts because they didn’t care. Not sure if that’s true as I haven’t seen it be posted anywhere else. Since we couldn’t figure it out my dad hired an independent mechanic who put a new head and head gasket on it and still does the same thing. Nobody can figure it out. It has defeated every mechanic that’s looked at it. I done the first head gasket then the mechanic done it again when replacing the head. We got a quality head from Clearwater Florida. The only thing anyone can think of is a flaw in the block or something.
I’ve seen a piece of casting slag that caused a restriction in a late 70s 305 (new then) that would belch coolant. Surprisingly it was right behind the water pump outlet. Hammer and chisel and removed it. Fine after that.
 
Here’s a pic of it side by side with my stock fan clutch.

View attachment 169140

In 2020 I put in the CSF 3-row from Rock Auto. Part 2671.

My whole cooling system is that radiator, Hesco High Flow thermostat housing, Duralast (Motorad) high flow 195* thermostat, FlowKooler high flow water pump, Napa stock fan clutch, and G-05 coolant. And in 110*+ heat it still runs 230+ at idle :ROFLMAO:
I am likely getting that same radiator because it is brass/copper with no plastic. Is the fan clutch this one?

 
I've had four Jeep vehicles from that era. I'm not a big Jeep fan by any means, it just seemed that they fell into my lap over a period of a few years and I picked all of them up for a song. My first Jeep was a '96 Cherokee. 4.0/5 speed. I put a lot of miles on it, was fun to drive and got me out of a lot of jams. (I live in a rural area not close to a highway, accessible by gravel roads. Winters here can be "entertaining") My second Jeep was also a '96 Cherokee 4.0/automatic, purchased with a cracked head. The owner said he never overheated it, it's got the 0630 head (not known for cracking), but it did anyway. I replaced the head and ran it for a few years. My third Jeep was a '98 Grand Cherokee. The interesting feature on this Jeep was that it was a "Canada-only vehicle. Not to be sold outside of Canada" said the underhood tag, or something similar. The gauges were metric and the engine block had a factory plug-in heating element for cold weather. My fourth Jeep is a '99 Cherokee.
Speaking of the reputation of the Cherokees running hot, they do. If you look at a RockAuto representative photo of a '96 Jeep Cherokee radiator, you will see that they are rectangular, not square. So they have two cooling fans, one mechanical and the other electric. My first two Cherokees ran hot, but I put on a BTR radiator on Jeep #1 and it made a world of difference. Sadly, BTR no longer in existence.
BTR radiator
My first '96 is kind of an odd duck that can make the parts man pull his (her?) hair out. It's got hodge-podge assortment of parts that Chrysler just threw together that year.
My next '96 Cherokee blew a hole through the engine block while simply driving down the road. I retired it.
The '98 Grand Cherokee was sold to an auto dealer in Texas. I didn't shed a tear.
The '99 Cherokee that I picked up for scrap needs a different engine or it needs to be scrapped. We'll see on that one. Again, the previous owner sold it because it put a hole in the side of the block as he was doing 10 mph on a hotel parking lot. The 4.0 engine has two reputations FOR CERTAIN YEARS. One, it will throw a rod or break a piston skirt. Two, the 331 cylinder heads have a reputation for cracking.
As far as the "carry a spare crankshaft position sensor" comment, yea, please do. The Jeep forums also scream that you should only buy your replacement from Jeep. Perhaps so, but the last one I purchased from Jeep was made in China, so...whatever. It's made to Jeep's specs, right? :ROFLMAO:
Have fun with your Jeep.
 
I've had four Jeep vehicles from that era. I'm not a big Jeep fan by any means, it just seemed that they fell into my lap over a period of a few years and I picked all of them up for a song. My first Jeep was a '96 Cherokee. 4.0/5 speed. I put a lot of miles on it, was fun to drive and got me out of a lot of jams. (I live in a rural area not close to a highway, accessible by gravel roads. Winters here can be "entertaining") My second Jeep was also a '96 Cherokee 4.0/automatic, purchased with a cracked head. The owner said he never overheated it, it's got the 0630 head (not known for cracking), but it did anyway. I replaced the head and ran it for a few years. My third Jeep was a '98 Grand Cherokee. The interesting feature on this Jeep was that it was a "Canada-only vehicle. Not to be sold outside of Canada" said the underhood tag, or something similar. The gauges were metric and the engine block had a factory plug-in heating element for cold weather. My fourth Jeep is a '99 Cherokee.
Speaking of the reputation of the Cherokees running hot, they do. If you look at a RockAuto representative photo of a '96 Jeep Cherokee radiator, you will see that they are rectangular, not square. So they have two cooling fans, one mechanical and the other electric. My first two Cherokees ran hot, but I put on a BTR radiator on Jeep #1 and it made a world of difference. Sadly, BTR no longer in existence.
BTR radiator
My first '96 is kind of an odd duck that can make the parts man pull his (her?) hair out. It's got hodge-podge assortment of parts that Chrysler just threw together that year.
My next '96 Cherokee blew a hole through the engine block while simply driving down the road. I retired it.
The '98 Grand Cherokee was sold to an auto dealer in Texas. I didn't shed a tear.
The '99 Cherokee that I picked up for scrap needs a different engine or it needs to be scrapped. We'll see on that one. Again, the previous owner sold it because it put a hole in the side of the block as he was doing 10 mph on a hotel parking lot. The 4.0 engine has two reputations FOR CERTAIN YEARS. One, it will throw a rod or break a piston skirt. Two, the 331 cylinder heads have a reputation for cracking.
As far as the "carry a spare crankshaft position sensor" comment, yea, please do. The Jeep forums also scream that you should only buy your replacement from Jeep. Perhaps so, but the last one I purchased from Jeep was made in China, so...whatever. It's made to Jeep's specs, right? :ROFLMAO:
Have fun with your Jeep.

1991 was when they switched the Cherokee from Renix FI to Chrysler which just compounded the weirdness. The Cherokee was always a weird hodge-podge of parts - Renault funded the development, the early powertrains were GM, then came Aisin transmissions and then Chrysler buys AMC.
 
Finished the project late last week and it turned out very well. We replaced the radiator, fan clutch, thermostat and housing, water pump, and all the hoses as the final work. The coolant was as dirty as one would expect after 21 years and the new Prestone should last for a while.

All parts were procured from Rock Auto and not a single one was incorrect nor did we have any problems with any of them. We have a small collection of RA magnets now.

Enjoy!

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I wouldn't recommend the Grand Cherokee fan clutch, the part number is 272310.

It's a direct bolt on, have to make sure the motor and transmission mounts are good since it sticks the fan a little closer to the radiator and the fan often times will poke a hole in the radiator. A bit difficult to get the fan shroud on afterwards too, and your knuckles will be a little bloody.

It didn't make mine run any cooler, but it as loud and I sounded like a garbage truck while accelerating. Could feel the power loss too. I put the stock one back on. Napa sells the best fan clutches for them.

I'll echo these comments, installed the GC fan clutch cause it was supposed to be better.

It was loud, had passengers complain (XJ is already loud lol) power loss.. etc

Went back to factory fan clutch and all is good.
 
I'll echo these comments, installed the GC fan clutch cause it was supposed to be better.

It was loud, had passengers complain (XJ is already loud lol) power loss.. etc

Went back to factory fan clutch and all is good.
This sounds like a situation where finding an electric fan and wiring it up with an RV solenoid with a thermal switch might be worthwhile. I had the big 'ol Mark VIII fan on my Town Car and it moves an obscene amount of air. Both my SRT and the 1500 only have electric fans, and they'd be more than big enough, provided they fit the rad.
 
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