Coil packs are not maintenance items. If it's not broke, don't fix it.
Replace coil packs with spark plugs?
- Thread starter jayjr1105
- Start date
Generally speaking, coil packs do fail sometimes, but they are not considered a wear item. If they aren't part of the scheduled maintenance, I don't think they should be replaced just because they've hit some arbitrary mileage, especially in an engine that is unmodified and well-maintained. If you have cash and time to spare, looking for something to do... go for it,... I guess? Mine are all original at 158k miles and running fine, have no intention to replace any of them until a good reason appears.
Originally Posted by RDY4WAR
Coil packs are not maintenance items. If it's not broke, don't fix it.
Agree here with the exception of hard to reach rear banks in a transverse V6.
If you have to remove the manifold to replace the spark plugs, it might be worth it to the shade tree mechanic to change out COP's with OEM only. This assumes you don't want to go back in to that rear bank in the future.
Denso's run about $50ish each for my '03 Camry V6 on RA. I'd likely shell out $150 for the feel good feeling of knowing I don't have to pull that manifold off ever again.
Coil packs are not maintenance items. If it's not broke, don't fix it.
Agree here with the exception of hard to reach rear banks in a transverse V6.
If you have to remove the manifold to replace the spark plugs, it might be worth it to the shade tree mechanic to change out COP's with OEM only. This assumes you don't want to go back in to that rear bank in the future.
Denso's run about $50ish each for my '03 Camry V6 on RA. I'd likely shell out $150 for the feel good feeling of knowing I don't have to pull that manifold off ever again.
Originally Posted by D1dad
My son had to get a coil replaced at the dreaded dealership with no warranty and they didn't even try and replace them all.
Unless they are really hard to get to, you can replace them yourself in about 10 minutes.
My son had to get a coil replaced at the dreaded dealership with no warranty and they didn't even try and replace them all.
Unless they are really hard to get to, you can replace them yourself in about 10 minutes.
I have 225,000 miles on my Chevy coil packs on my LS engine. Not planning on changing them.
Yes, Toyota Sienna 3.5, you really have to be prepared to get that 1 intake plenum bolt, and the intake plenum has hex head bolts holding it down. Then the wiring harness has to have a couple of hold downs that have to be removed as I recall it is strapped tight against the rear valve cover and has to be wrestled out of the way for #5 especially.
The coils I pulled look original at 210k thick dirt layer on top, read "Toyota D/E Diamond 90919-A2004 9620E", not the Denso expected, so I bought a 3 pack off eBay for ~$65, Box reads Toyota/Lexus Genuine Parts, 90919-A2007 Made in Japan, Toyota Motor Company, shipped from City of Industry California, but they were also individually wrapped wrapped in black plastic Tthat reads "M010000000001007088 10034049 S S50000000010956 8318 Made in China Please Save This Label". Kept originals as spares in the shipping boxes and envelope, I no longer own the 2010 Sienna but kept the parts as the buyer asked for a better price and I then didn't offer to add in the parts to keep in my own inventory. Reluctantly sold this Sienna because I only have room for 3 cars in the garage in winter.
The other thing to prepare for is the electrical connector clips/tabs often can break and on the firewall side of a transverse V6 that is difficult, it is probably best to replace any connector end that the clips break to insure the coil stays connected, think I did 2 of the 3 on the Sienna. For the coils that are easy to get at and observe, I only broke 1 of the 3, replacing that later and I also drove my 2.4 Camry for a long time with no connector clips, eventually replaced. Both instances I leave the engine covers off and often observed the coil connectors for contact.
The wire connector ends can often be replaced by backing the individual wire ends out and then pushing into the new connector, keeping the wires in the correct order is mandatory or there will likely be problems. Some of the old wire connector ends crumble from being hard and brittle plastic and they were the easier ones to get the wires backed out, I had a little more trouble with they others but once understanding the better tool to use it went slightly better, though I wouldn't say I am good at it yet and am very careful now not to break tabs in the first place.
Not much more to say except totally agree have spare coils, OEM is probably better but as with the ealier 2012 Chevy Cruze/MSD example your may vary. And know what you are getting into at the firewall. I replaced the 2010 Sienna with a 2004 Sienna with the 3.3, bought after on YouTube I seen you can replace the rear plugs without removing the intake manifold plenum.
in my experience simply removing a coil pack that has been in place for 100k+ miles can cause a latent failure that takes down the coil some time later... eg mechanical stress of removal causes old/weak rubber or plastic to fracture letting in moisture, and then a year later you get a misfire. the late 90s Nissan coils were notorious for this (mitsubishi made as I recall).
so unless you enjoy pulling off your intake just put new coils in while you're at it. now up through '99 the Nissan VQ30 intake was designed so you could remove the back bank coils without removing the intake.. very nice! then they mucked it all up starting in 2000.
so unless you enjoy pulling off your intake just put new coils in while you're at it. now up through '99 the Nissan VQ30 intake was designed so you could remove the back bank coils without removing the intake.. very nice! then they mucked it all up starting in 2000.
Then how does the spark plug get replaced for scheduled maintenance or at the very least to check the plug condition? I've replaced the plugs on my wife's Civic, and I'm pretty sure that removing the coil was part of the process.
Coils only really become a maintenence item if you've simply neglected basic tuneup maintenence and other scheduled items. About the only times I've seen COP/CNP packs fail is when they're either overheated or you let the plugs or wires deteriorate. They work extra hard in performance scenarios and especially if you try to fire them through rotten short wires or worn plugs.
I do not absolutely, resolutely, care-abootley about GM service intervals on my mom's car. She's out in the sticks in a state that has zero mass transit or local cab service. Failure is not an option.
Every 50k, where she needs it or not, her GM 3.6 transverse block powered whip gets new, ACDelco iridiums, coil pack short wires and resistors replaced, accessory belt, power brake and steering flush. The oil gets dropped the moment her DIC says "CHANGE OIL SOON".
In my mind, getting them done too early is a serious chunk of peace of mind when dealing with elderly mum that's not at all car savvy and tired of getting mansplained and cheated in the past.
It also saves you decent cash to just *look* at your plugs and wires early before it costs you all of that and a set of ignition packs. :/
I do not absolutely, resolutely, care-abootley about GM service intervals on my mom's car. She's out in the sticks in a state that has zero mass transit or local cab service. Failure is not an option.
Every 50k, where she needs it or not, her GM 3.6 transverse block powered whip gets new, ACDelco iridiums, coil pack short wires and resistors replaced, accessory belt, power brake and steering flush. The oil gets dropped the moment her DIC says "CHANGE OIL SOON".
In my mind, getting them done too early is a serious chunk of peace of mind when dealing with elderly mum that's not at all car savvy and tired of getting mansplained and cheated in the past.
It also saves you decent cash to just *look* at your plugs and wires early before it costs you all of that and a set of ignition packs. :/
