Which oil filter type do you prefer?

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Having had 2 cartridge filters (Toyota and PentaStar) and a bunch of Spin-on conventional filters for various other vehicles, I like the Cartridge style better.

I get to see into my filter at each change and I can decide to continue running the filter if visibly it looks ok (no major warning flags).
I also like that the bypass mechanism is part of the OE setup and not the filter, leaving less chance for problems from a poorly manufactured filter. Also less waste for the environment.

On my van the Filter Cartridge is up-top so I can do the whole oil change now without jacking up the vehicle. I pump the old oil out through the dipstick tube using my pump and I change the filter up-top.
Convenient, less mess and no need to crawl on the ground. (great for terrible weather like Winter)
 
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The cartridge filter is actually less messy in my experience. It can be drained before ya unscrew the housing. Spin on always leaks all around the filter can after it's unscrewed a bit.
Cartridge media is almost always well made.
Cratridge media can be inspected before use as well as between and after oci.
Spin on is usually less expensive.
 
Undecided.

Spin on would be most nice, but I don't think I have recycling for it locally. So rather than toss into the trash I've been slicing them open, draining, and then separating into the appropriate waste bin. I'd lose the ability to inspect the media if I could just toss into a recycling bin, I guess, so perhaps this should be be my least favorite.

Top side cartridge: had one, had to have a bag nearby as I'd get oil all over the place if not careful. On the plus side, with an oil extractor it was an easy job to do everything topside. On the downside, engine oil had to be warm to pull up through the dipstick, and then the aforementioned filter mess.

Bottom side cartridge: if I have to get under the car to drain oil, then this isn't much of a drawback to deal with. I'll say it's the most work to R&R. Perhaps this should be my least favorite.

In the end, it's an oil change, not rocket science. None of my vehicles are that bad in the scheme of things. I could complain about my 5S-FE with the filter behind the exhaust manifold--but I adapted and do oil changes cold. My truck requires me to remove the skidplate (I, umm, left off last time). Wife's car requires me to jack it up a couple inches to get the drain pan underneath. All kinda trivial.
 
I've changed 1950s-style big metal-bodied cartridges several times, spin-ons dozens of times, and modern metal-free cartridges exactly two times.

Modern cartridges are by far the best environmentally, and also as regards both pre-use and post-use inspection. They seem a little trickier to remove without touching used oil (or using gloves).

Spin-ons are easier for dummies to change. They make it easy for the manufacturer to hide sloppy construction. I've seen some dubiously constructed cartridges, too, though. Either kind can let oil bypass the media if not well made.

The cartridge of my Prius is inconvenient to change, not so much because it's a cartridge, as because of its location. The drain plug is near the filter, therefore about equally inconvenient to access.
 
I have no preference really for the type of filter. It all comes down to accessibility for me and ease of changing. Most spin on filters are simple but I've had a couple of vehicles which required unique arm bending or ended up in making a mess.

Like CR94, I spent time as a youngster trying to change a canister filter on a old 50's Chevrolet. That one had a O ring that never stayed in place while trying to screw the cover on. I learned cuss words from my Dad in the process.

I'm used to spin on filters.
 
I have never changed a cartridge filter but I can get used to anything. There is an appeal to reduced waste, even if the process is a little more tedious or messy, which probably varies by design. I'm sure some cartridge filters can be changed easier and cleaner than some canisters.
Originally Posted by 1978elcamino
One advantage I feel the canister has is the bypass valve is built in, new with each filter change. The bypass valve in the cartridge syle is part of the car.

Actually the ADBV with cartridge filters is part of the car, it is in the engine block and a permanent part of the car. So I would imagine this in-block design is more robust and reliable than a rubber flap inside a cartridge, even if it is a new flap. My $0.02
 
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Originally Posted by PimTac
I have no preference really for the type of filter. It all comes down to accessibility for me and ease of changing. Most spin on filters are simple but I've had a couple of vehicles which required unique arm bending or ended up in making a mess.

Like CR94, I spent time as a youngster trying to change a canister filter on a old 50's Chevrolet. That one had a O ring that never stayed in place while trying to screw the cover on. I learned cuss words from my Dad in the process.

I'm used to spin on filters.



You too I had one of those on my first car a 1949 Chevy two door Deluxe. .
 
Originally Posted by JohnnyJohnson
Originally Posted by PimTac
I have no preference really for the type of filter. It all comes down to accessibility for me and ease of changing. Most spin on filters are simple but I've had a couple of vehicles which required unique arm bending or ended up in making a mess.

Like CR94, I spent time as a youngster trying to change a canister filter on a old 50's Chevrolet. That one had a O ring that never stayed in place while trying to screw the cover on. I learned cuss words from my Dad in the process.

I'm used to spin on filters.



You too I had one of those on my first car a 1949 Chevy two door Deluxe. .




We had a 53 or somewhere around there. 4 door. I mentioned it in a thread here a long time ago and apparently the filter was a add on option.

That O ring really tested the patience. Even if it stayed on while screwing on the canister it leaked sometimes and we had to start over.

I have a lot of good memories watching dad change the oil and handing him tools.
 
Originally Posted by CrAlt
I really like the cartridge setup on my pentastar v6. Up top and no mess.


Pentastar is my favorite too … next the 1.4T, the two L83's, and Fusion Hybrid is last by far. Small spin on under a huge under panel and right against obstructions …
 
Originally Posted by PimTac
Like CR94, I spent time as a youngster trying to change a canister filter on a old 50's Chevrolet. That one had a O ring that never stayed in place while trying to screw the cover on. ...

That O ring really tested the patience. Even if it stayed on while screwing on the canister it leaked sometimes and we had to start over.
Really? Maybe GM used different filter housings on them at different times? It would've been easy for them to change the filter design, because it was remotely mounted. On my parents' '54 there was no O-ring. There was a flat rubber gasket that sealed the lid to the main body of the filter housing. It was easy to install, and never leaked, as best I can recall. (It also made a decent imitation Frisbee toy upon retirement.)

The Continental engine of our Ferguson tractor had the same type cartridge housing and gasket, except oriented with the center-line of the filter horizontal, so the leftover old oil didn't have to be suctioned out of the filter housing as it did on the Chevrolet---as is also true of my 60-years-later Toyota cartridge housing.

Our IH tractor had a different form of cartridge set-up like I've never seen elsewhere. I don't recall whether the gasket was in O-ring format or otherwise.
 
i like the Purolator Boss. for my 2016 frontier. uses PBL14610
 
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Spin on, easier to change and don't require strange sockets/tools to change. A simple band wrench is all you need!
 
Originally Posted by jongies3
Spin on, easier to change and don't require strange sockets/tools to change. A simple band wrench is all you need!
Lame reason. Investing in a $4 tool once in the life of a vehicle shouldn't be insurmountable. Besides, in the case of mine, it's the very same cap tool that fits small (64mm, 14-sided) spin-ons.
 
Originally Posted by jongies3
Spin on, easier to change and don't require strange sockets/tools to change. A simple band wrench is all you need!

The 2 top mounted canister filters I have use a 27mm and 32mm socket.
I already had a 27mm socket, so no extra cost there, but the cap on the GM Ecotec needs a shorter than normal 32mm socket, and after the first time of me mangling it up with chanel locks, I paid $6 for the right tool 7 years ago, but am able to use the socket on other stuff if I need to.
I spent more than that on the band wrenches I have (1 large, 1 small), and I have bought 3-4 cap end wrenches over the years due to tight locations that the band wrench would not fit.

Now I do agree that there are some that require a special tool that is around $20, but they are not a 1 time use tool, so in the grand scheme of things, not a big deal.
 
Originally Posted by jongies3
Spin on, easier to change and don't require strange sockets/tools to change.

A standard 24mm socket is not that strange. Many people have had metric tools for decades now. Even if you didn't 15/16" is close enough.
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[Linked Image]
 
Yep, I leave the 24mm socket, filter, spare cap, and quart of oil in the trunk …
And I have an area where everything I need for oil changes are kept … various size six point box ends etc …
 
Cartridge. I've got the underside mounted toyota cartridge and once I got the wrench for the housing it was super easy to change. I can find em for comparable price to canister. ($4 a piece for toyota oem, even less if I buy a pack) My brothers Chrysler has a top mounted one and that is a treat. So easy to change.

Plus you can examine the media easily. It's nice making less garbage per OCI too, but that's a very minor point.
 
You guys clearly haven't changed a Toyota cartridge or just about any European car cartridge before then! Lol
 
Originally Posted by Ponchinizo
Cartridge. I've got the underside mounted toyota cartridge and once I got the wrench for the housing it was super easy to change. I can find em for comparable price to canister. ($4 a piece for toyota oem, even less if I buy a pack) My brothers Chrysler has a top mounted one and that is a treat. So easy to change.

Plus you can examine the media easily. It's nice making less garbage per OCI too, but that's a very minor point.


Well that's great and it even keeps you from crawling under the car to change oil just like a Fuji what yah call it?
 
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