Recently found a real good one man shop that works on everything from John Deere's, Hondas, MB's, etc....here are some pics from his shop. Has perfect reviews.
Shops not willing to do hard work?
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JHZR2
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I'd like that blue SD!!!
You just have to find these shops, which seem like they're fewer and further between.
You just have to find these shops, which seem like they're fewer and further between.
You can have the gold one and I'll take the blue one. I like the contrast btwn the blue and tan interior. Here are some more pics from his site that are interesting to look at.
https://www.facebook.com/pg/OberlinAutoClinic/photos/?ref=page_internal
https://www.facebook.com/pg/OberlinAutoClinic/photos/?ref=page_internal
Your point about automotive machine shops is spot on. Good ones are scarce! Years ago I could take a head, drop it off and pick it back up with 100% confidence its was done really right, no questions. Today that is getting harder to find.
There was a guy here that was getting on a bit and had been doing this since the 70's he was a go too guy with a stellar reputation, he sold the business and the new owner kept the name. Now its the known as a place to avoid, very poor work. Same machines, same shop, different skill level.
There was a guy here that was getting on a bit and had been doing this since the 70's he was a go too guy with a stellar reputation, he sold the business and the new owner kept the name. Now its the known as a place to avoid, very poor work. Same machines, same shop, different skill level.
I've gotten back heads that look like they were decked with a Sawzall........after 2 weeks. Really is a shame.
does your engine happen to have one of the so called bad cylinder heads models? have you done the cold pressure test yet?
Originally Posted by DoubleWasp
I've gotten back heads that look like they were decked with a Sawzall........after 2 weeks. Really is a shame.
I sent a pair of HD pan heads out to a specialist, they ruined both heads trying to cut the valve seats for inserts. You don't find them cheap down at the local shop.
I went ape sh...
I've gotten back heads that look like they were decked with a Sawzall........after 2 weeks. Really is a shame.
I sent a pair of HD pan heads out to a specialist, they ruined both heads trying to cut the valve seats for inserts. You don't find them cheap down at the local shop.
I went ape sh...
I would have too. I did for that set of 496 heads. Not exactly pricey or hard to find, but not cheap either.
Fortunately I had a VERY understanding customer who told me to just consider it water under the bridge, and a good excuse to get some real performance heads. I could have really ate some doody on that deal. I offered to pay for a replacement set of OEM heads, but he decided to go with some rectangle port Worlds. I still ate some of the bill anyway. Just a huge appearance of competency issue.
Fortunately I had a VERY understanding customer who told me to just consider it water under the bridge, and a good excuse to get some real performance heads. I could have really ate some doody on that deal. I offered to pay for a replacement set of OEM heads, but he decided to go with some rectangle port Worlds. I still ate some of the bill anyway. Just a huge appearance of competency issue.
JHZR2
Staff member
Originally Posted by DoubleWasp
does your engine happen to have one of the so called bad cylinder heads models? have you done the cold pressure test yet?
No. The early OM603 models (3.0L) had some bad heads (#14 pat number, IIRC). It was very hit or miss (i.e. some still went 200k+ without work as would be expected of these cars), and there were multiple part numbers that ultimately resulted in solid heads (#17/20/22 IIRC) without concerns.
Telltale sign of a cracked head on those is cooling system pressure after sitting overnight, and rapid increase of cooling system pressure once the engine is run. Neither of these is the case.
Once they fixed the head, they bored the 3.0L engine out to 3.5L, and that's what Ive got. So same block, different bore/stroke and less space between the cylinders and between cylinder #1 and the TC case.
So the 3.5L has a bulletproof head, and actually a better turbo than the older ones (no controlled air bleed), also no trap oxidizer (though higher EGR rate).
But the resulting design put more stresses on the HG and in some cases, the rods. Still plenty Im aware of that have gone 300-500k miles.
With a good head, the OM603 3.0L is an excellent engine in all forms, and will last a LONG time.
With an early head on a 3.0, or a bad HG on a 3.5, one would be considered on "borrowed time". Fixing either generally pushes the engine to be bulletproof. The best combo of all is a 3.0L block with a 3.5L head, IP and turbo. Im not that far along yet, unless the engine has bent rods, which I doubt.
does your engine happen to have one of the so called bad cylinder heads models? have you done the cold pressure test yet?
No. The early OM603 models (3.0L) had some bad heads (#14 pat number, IIRC). It was very hit or miss (i.e. some still went 200k+ without work as would be expected of these cars), and there were multiple part numbers that ultimately resulted in solid heads (#17/20/22 IIRC) without concerns.
Telltale sign of a cracked head on those is cooling system pressure after sitting overnight, and rapid increase of cooling system pressure once the engine is run. Neither of these is the case.
Once they fixed the head, they bored the 3.0L engine out to 3.5L, and that's what Ive got. So same block, different bore/stroke and less space between the cylinders and between cylinder #1 and the TC case.
So the 3.5L has a bulletproof head, and actually a better turbo than the older ones (no controlled air bleed), also no trap oxidizer (though higher EGR rate).
But the resulting design put more stresses on the HG and in some cases, the rods. Still plenty Im aware of that have gone 300-500k miles.
With a good head, the OM603 3.0L is an excellent engine in all forms, and will last a LONG time.
With an early head on a 3.0, or a bad HG on a 3.5, one would be considered on "borrowed time". Fixing either generally pushes the engine to be bulletproof. The best combo of all is a 3.0L block with a 3.5L head, IP and turbo. Im not that far along yet, unless the engine has bent rods, which I doubt.
Here on Long Island I was finding it increasingly difficult to find someone to paint my 68 roadrunner. No shop anywhere was interested in a job that wasn't collision repair.
I feel fortunate to have found a guy that does outstanding work in the big garage on his own property. Has a lift and everything. He just did a 1969 Firebird for a friend and the car is gorgeous. Even pretty close to my house.
I feel fortunate to have found a guy that does outstanding work in the big garage on his own property. Has a lift and everything. He just did a 1969 Firebird for a friend and the car is gorgeous. Even pretty close to my house.
JHZR2
Staff member
Originally Posted by NYEngineer
Here on Long Island I was finding it increasingly difficult to find someone to paint my 68 roadrunner. No shop anywhere was interested in a job that wasn't collision repair.
I feel fortunate to have found a guy that does outstanding work in the big garage on his own property. Has a lift and everything. He just did a 1969 Firebird for a friend and the car is gorgeous. Even pretty close to my house.
Ive noticed that too. Most shops want the direct pay from insurance, and the best collision shop I know (who doesnt take direct referral from any insurance company) still doesnt want to do restorations.
But there are lots of restoration shops around...
That said, I do actually understand that a bit more. To me, restoration often includes rust, and rust is a more complex issue on a car, than rebuilding a mechanical item competently, as rust can hide, has to be cut and recrafted fully, etc.
Here on Long Island I was finding it increasingly difficult to find someone to paint my 68 roadrunner. No shop anywhere was interested in a job that wasn't collision repair.
I feel fortunate to have found a guy that does outstanding work in the big garage on his own property. Has a lift and everything. He just did a 1969 Firebird for a friend and the car is gorgeous. Even pretty close to my house.
Ive noticed that too. Most shops want the direct pay from insurance, and the best collision shop I know (who doesnt take direct referral from any insurance company) still doesnt want to do restorations.
But there are lots of restoration shops around...
That said, I do actually understand that a bit more. To me, restoration often includes rust, and rust is a more complex issue on a car, than rebuilding a mechanical item competently, as rust can hide, has to be cut and recrafted fully, etc.
Yep. The car is going on a rotisserie soon and will have any metal replaced I deem necessary. I really only wanted it painted by them. One guy I've known a long time would have done it but he's older and a one man operation. He needs the car to move under it's own power. I would like to have it sprayed on the rotisserie so the bottom gets done as well.
Like I said earlier, this new guy is happy to do it. I'm very pleased.
Like I said earlier, this new guy is happy to do it. I'm very pleased.
And I did my motor mount today on my Suburban. Wasn't too big a deal. Took about two and a half hours.
I wanted to let the mechanic do it but I need to make a couple of big trips next month and don't feel like listening to my engine clunk all the way up and down I-95.
I wanted to let the mechanic do it but I need to make a couple of big trips next month and don't feel like listening to my engine clunk all the way up and down I-95.
Originally Posted by JHZR2
You just have to find these shops, which seem like they're fewer and further between.
Specialty shops are hard to find. My dad still has his 1987 Saab 9000 Turbo (brought brand new and still looks and drives like new) and he takes it to a specialty shop somewhere in Colorado. The guy only works on Swedish cars.
You just have to find these shops, which seem like they're fewer and further between.
Specialty shops are hard to find. My dad still has his 1987 Saab 9000 Turbo (brought brand new and still looks and drives like new) and he takes it to a specialty shop somewhere in Colorado. The guy only works on Swedish cars.
I see. Not directly related, but on our Cummins 6.7 engines (big bore 5.9, essentially ), we find ARP studs go a long way toward preventing head gasket death. When you do get your head done, consider replacing the head bolts with ARP studs instead. Not cheap at all, but cheaper than doing the head again.
From what I am seeing, it looks like the factory Benz head gasket is the best one?
From what I am seeing, it looks like the factory Benz head gasket is the best one?
JHZR2
Staff member
Originally Posted by DoubleWasp
I see. Not directly related, but on our Cummins 6.7 engines (big bore 5.9, essentially ), we find ARP studs go a long way toward preventing head gasket death. When you do get your head done, consider replacing the head bolts with ARP studs instead. Not cheap at all, but cheaper than doing the head again.
From what I am seeing, it looks like the factory Benz head gasket is the best one?
That's my read on the gasket itself as well.
Not seeing M-B being one of the manufacturers that ARP makes head bolts for. But I wonder if there's generic ones?
So..... Let me pull the string a bit here. 6.7 Cummins is a bored 5.9? 5.9 was "bulletproof"? 6.7 has head/HG issues? When they go bad, what happens? Oil in coolant? coolant in oil? oil or coolant in cylinder? bent rods?
Is there a theory why the ARP studs work better than OE?
I see. Not directly related, but on our Cummins 6.7 engines (big bore 5.9, essentially ), we find ARP studs go a long way toward preventing head gasket death. When you do get your head done, consider replacing the head bolts with ARP studs instead. Not cheap at all, but cheaper than doing the head again.
From what I am seeing, it looks like the factory Benz head gasket is the best one?
That's my read on the gasket itself as well.
Not seeing M-B being one of the manufacturers that ARP makes head bolts for. But I wonder if there's generic ones?
So..... Let me pull the string a bit here. 6.7 Cummins is a bored 5.9? 5.9 was "bulletproof"? 6.7 has head/HG issues? When they go bad, what happens? Oil in coolant? coolant in oil? oil or coolant in cylinder? bent rods?
Is there a theory why the ARP studs work better than OE?
Pretty much. Head gasket issues really only rear their ugly head if you turn up the horsepower a good amount. Stock, you can beat the daylights out of it and never havw an issue. Even then, it is more a factor of excess drive pressure than anything. The turbocharger system was intentionally made restrictive to allow the EGR to function as efficiently as possible.
Exhaust pressure must be greater than boost pressure for EGR to get into the air stream. Problem with high exhaust pressure is that it drives cylinder pressures through the roof if you're really stomping on it, which can result in a blown head gasket. Attaching a tuner and turning up the power only exacerbates this issue.
Those who switch to a turbo that has a larger exhaust housing (stock is amazingly undersized) or a 5.9 turbocharger setup pretty much never have head gasket issues unless they are double stock power running some nasty compound turbos.
6.7 is no withering daisy, though. My stock gasket is pushing over 400k miles, with a tune, and a load of nasty towing in hot weather. About to put in a bigger VGT controlled turbo (like stock) for safer and stronger operation. Will kick down cylinder pressures, drive pressure, and EGTs.
Regardless, it's always smart with these engines to never beat on them when they're cold. Those who have dumped a head gasket have reported this to be a major aggravator. In both my auto and stick trucks, I hold gears and run them out a little to warm the engine up. Otherwise, like most diesels, they take half of forever. If I granny the engine, I can drive miles without reaching thermostat temp in FL summer.
Exhaust pressure must be greater than boost pressure for EGR to get into the air stream. Problem with high exhaust pressure is that it drives cylinder pressures through the roof if you're really stomping on it, which can result in a blown head gasket. Attaching a tuner and turning up the power only exacerbates this issue.
Those who switch to a turbo that has a larger exhaust housing (stock is amazingly undersized) or a 5.9 turbocharger setup pretty much never have head gasket issues unless they are double stock power running some nasty compound turbos.
6.7 is no withering daisy, though. My stock gasket is pushing over 400k miles, with a tune, and a load of nasty towing in hot weather. About to put in a bigger VGT controlled turbo (like stock) for safer and stronger operation. Will kick down cylinder pressures, drive pressure, and EGTs.
Regardless, it's always smart with these engines to never beat on them when they're cold. Those who have dumped a head gasket have reported this to be a major aggravator. In both my auto and stick trucks, I hold gears and run them out a little to warm the engine up. Otherwise, like most diesels, they take half of forever. If I granny the engine, I can drive miles without reaching thermostat temp in FL summer.
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Forgot the studs. ARP studs have a lot less give than pretty much any fastener, and can clamp harder than stock head bolts. Makes it a lot harder for the head gasket to give. Most people replace the head bolts one-by-one in a single shot without removing the head. Considered to be a preventative measure.
Common failure mode wit bad HG on a Cummins is exhaust or combustion gases blasting out of the cooling system, but sometime's is oil instead.
Common failure mode wit bad HG on a Cummins is exhaust or combustion gases blasting out of the cooling system, but sometime's is oil instead.
Without a doubt ARP make the best makes the best studs and bolts in the world for engine internals. Considering the quality of materials, finish and QC they are not expensive.
My question and I really don't the answer to it, is with mixed metal engines and Teflon coated MLS gaskets do you really want or need that sort of rigidity in a street engine head to block connection given the difference in thermal expansion? Instead of being allowed a slight amount of movement would it create conditions for stress cracking?
Being just an old wrench turner those sort of questions are a bit out of my wheel house.
My question and I really don't the answer to it, is with mixed metal engines and Teflon coated MLS gaskets do you really want or need that sort of rigidity in a street engine head to block connection given the difference in thermal expansion? Instead of being allowed a slight amount of movement would it create conditions for stress cracking?
Being just an old wrench turner those sort of questions are a bit out of my wheel house.
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