Volvo - Alternator

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JMG

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Dec 28, 2004
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Michigan
Hello:

Anyone have experience with Volvo's and altenators? Specifically 2009 S80 3.2? Mine only has 55K miles and I beleive the alt went out today- need to test- but I was curious if this is a common fault.

Thank-you
 
Have not heard of it as a common fault. Gosh, I hope it isn't. What were the symptoms?
 
Me either, when doing my research I could not find a lot of issues with the 2nd Gen S80 -

Well, so far a whinny high pitched noise and the car saying Charging Fault- Service Urgent -

Its a $800 part with no after market...

BTW: I'm using Edge 0w30 - I saw you were using 5w30 Edge -
 
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55K is an early failure for an alternator.

What went bad on it? If it is the bearings, you can get bearings and replace them.

Are there any local alternator rebuild shops near you. Getting the original rebuilt by a local alternator shop cost much less than a new one, and is just as reliable if the shop is good.

Low cost alternators that are rebuilt in foreign countries are often built by un-skilled labor, and often they have problems.

And a new one from a dealer will be very expensive.
 
I have a local shop rebuild the starter and alternator on our vehicles just for preventive maintenance.

For a new vehicle I have the first rebuild done at 60 K miles. After that every 50 K miles.

For the alternator I have them replace the bearings, and brushes.

For the starter they replace the bendix, clean out the groves in the comutator, replace the brushes, and clean and re-grease the where the shaft turns.
 
Originally Posted By: JimPghPA
55K is an early failure for an alternator.

What went bad on it? If it is the bearings, you can get bearings and replace them.

Are there any local alternator rebuild shops near you. Getting the original rebuilt by a local alternator shop cost much less than a new one, and is just as reliable if the shop is good.

Low cost alternators that are rebuilt in foreign countries are often built by un-skilled labor, and often they have problems.

agree find an auto electric shop

And a new one from a dealer will be very expensive.
 
Old type Bosch alternators rarely needed anything but brushes...they used to be mounted onto the bolt on regulator that would affix to the rear of the unit.
 
Originally Posted By: NHGUY
Old type Bosch alternators rarely needed anything but brushes...they used to be mounted onto the bolt on regulator that would affix to the rear of the unit.


Oh yes. My 760 Turbo went 300k and I replaced those brushes twice as I recall.
 
Originally Posted By: JMG
Me either, when doing my research I could not find a lot of issues with the 2nd Gen S80 -

Well, so far a whinny high pitched noise and the car saying Charging Fault- Service Urgent -

Its a $800 part with no after market...

BTW: I'm using Edge 0w30 - I saw you were using 5w30 Edge -

Actually. about 1/2 of my fill is 5w-30 Edge. I let the dealer change the oil under S&S using GTX SynBlend, then I extract about 1/2 out and put the Edge in. My Volvo sees mostly interstate driving, probably 90% of the time on 4 hour trips. I have not seen the 0w-30 Edge. Has ~ 30K on it now. Recently got a 3 year "Anniversary" email from my dealer recently. Sort of a nice touch.
When I was in the market for the V70, there were none on the lots within several hundred miles as I wanted it. So, my dealer had it made at the factory and shipped directly to the dealer. Took about 3 months, but well worth it.
 
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Thats pretty cool - been happy with my Volvo so far- this is the first thing to go wrong. Doesn't bother me as much when my Saab 9-7x kept breaking every 5K miles tho....
 
There is a very good alternator, starter, and vehicle air-conditioning shop here in Pittsburgh. It is ran by two brothers and while they rebuild a lot of alternators and starters from customers vehicles who bring the vehicle to them, they also get a lot of rebuild business from the local private auto repair shops.

They are called Ed's Generator Service and their address is 2029 Saw Mill Run Blvd Pittsburgh, PA 15210 their phone number is (412) 881-0300 , you could give them a call and see if they would accept an alternator via UPS and then UPS it back to you.

These two brothers do very good work. Along with rebuilding the alternator, they have a set up to run it under load to test it.

Give them a call if you can't find anyone near you.
 
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Originally Posted By: JimPghPA
I have a local shop rebuild the starter and alternator on our vehicles just for preventive maintenance.

For a new vehicle I have the first rebuild done at 60 K miles. After that every 50 K miles.

For the alternator I have them replace the bearings, and brushes.

For the starter they replace the bendix, clean out the groves in the comutator, replace the brushes, and clean and re-grease the where the shaft turns.


This - Have almost 60,000 miles on my rebuilt alternator (T5). Dealer wanted over $400, rebuild was closer to $100...
 
Bring it to a local rebuild shop. You will spend less and come away with a better alternator.

I too replaced the brushes on a 760 Volvo wagon's Bosch alternator. Takes all of 5 minutes without removing the alternator.
 
Thank you all for the replies! I really appericate it.

I did buy a part from the dealer- kind of in a pinch- leaving for business and wanted to make sure the Wife had a working car before I left.
 
I have been think about this thread, in-particular about the problem with the charging system occurring early with only 55K miles on the vehicle. Because that really is early for an alternator problem it kinda is a red flag that maybe there is something else going on, such as a problem with the drive belt that turns the alternator. I am not familiar with the that vehicle, so I don't know if it is a serpentine belt like most are now days, or just V belts. Either way if it were mine I would be also looking at the belt that drives the alternator. If something else on that belt were bad it could cause a problem with the alternator. For instance if the bearings on a water pump were going bad, there could be way too much tension on the belt causing failure of the bearings of other items if they were on the same belt. Or if the idler pulley bearings or tension spring were bad that could cause too much tension, or not enough tension. Not enough tension would still cause a problem because then the pulley of the alternator would be slipping all the time and there fore not turning fast enough to provide enough power for the vehicles system. A bad belt could also cause the same problem. So along with everything else check the belt that turns the alternator, and all things that are on that belt.
 
Thanks everyone for the good information and replies.

The alt. was replaced today and the alt. fails only when the engine is hot. Car runs completely different now.
 
Well after about 150 miles same issue- I had the alt and battery tested at AutoZone since I could not take it in to the shop today- and everything tested fine- the battery was good but needed charging. I drove home (20 mile round trip) and the next tiem I went to start the car it was dead. I called a tow to have it towed to the shop and I tried one more time so I could put the car in the drive way and it started, no issue, no lights...

It appears the voltage regulator is on the alt. the battery was replaced 4 weeks ago with a NAPA battery, maybe there is a bad cell?
 
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