I just picked up a 2002 GMC 2500 with the 6.0, it has 185,000 miles on it. Everything seems good on it, all fluids looked good, runs and shifts great, but has a really bad tick when it's cold. Unfortunately when I went to look at it he had just drove it, so it was warmed up and not making the noise (obvious why he had warmed it up before I got there now). I'm pretty sure it's an exhaust leak that I'm hearing. I noticed the very front and back manifold stud on the drivers side and the back on the passenger side are broke off. I have done a little research and it seems this is fairly common. Does anyone have any experience with the Dorman repair clamps that are made for this? I have watched a few videos of extracting the broken studs, but don't really want to go that route if there's an easier fix. Thanks!
6.0 vortec exhaust leak fix
- Thread starter Oscar11
- Start date
Buy the Kral version made in the USA for less money.
Oh that's awesome, I haven't seen those yet, thanks for the link! I would definitely rather buy those than the Dormans.
There are Mechanics that are really good at extracting sheared off LS manifold bolts. The clamp method doesn't prevent the other bolts from shearing!
The weight of the exhaust/converters is greater on 6.0L 2500's than 1500's....Long term it needs to be repaired correctly using ARP Bolts.
The weight of the exhaust/converters is greater on 6.0L 2500's than 1500's....Long term it needs to be repaired correctly using ARP Bolts.
I was afraid you were going to say that! I really do want to fix it right, I'm hoping to use this as my work truck for quite sometime, so I want it to last. I might try to attempt it, just not super confident I would be able to do it. My local mechanic I trusted and used for this kind of stuff retired. I thought if people had success with the repair clamps it might be worth trying
I've had the Dormans on the RVs 6.0L for a couple years now. I've checked the tightness a couple times and never changed. Think I used blue or red loctite on the bolts. I broke off a new stud so heck with it and went with those.
Had that happen to my 05's 6.0 at around 220k but i had the tick fixed only once i had to get the engine pulled out just to change the silly rear main seal since it was dripping a little but still enough to piss the wife off. But she never complained about the exhaust leak as it was a tick when cold but mostly gone once warm. The mechanic changed all the bolts.
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I can vouch for the Dorman piece, at least on a 1500 with one bolt broken on the left front. Three clamps is a lot more cost, but may be worth it if you can't get it repaired right away.
4.5 yrs ago, at 130k miles, I discovered that 3 of the 4 end bolts on the exh manifolds were broke on our 07 GM 6.2L that we had just purchased. So, I installed:
Exhaust Manifold clamp, back driver side – APDTY# 028218 - $30
Exhaust manifold clamps, frt driver side and back pass side – APDTY#028253- $67
Still going strong at 190k miles
If I ever get around to doing a proper fix I'll use:
ARP exhaust manifold bolts = (6 point) 134-1102, or (12 point) 134-1202
Exhaust Manifold clamp, back driver side – APDTY# 028218 - $30
Exhaust manifold clamps, frt driver side and back pass side – APDTY#028253- $67
Still going strong at 190k miles
If I ever get around to doing a proper fix I'll use:
ARP exhaust manifold bolts = (6 point) 134-1102, or (12 point) 134-1202
no, and getting to and welding a nut at the back passenger side may be impossible
These bridge clamps work good.
It is very possible....Done hundreds.
If below flush....Clean the top of the stud remaining in the head with a ball burr bit
Weld in a 5/16" washer first, Needs to be a big enough welding machine to burn into the stud.
Weld a 3/8" nut onto the washer.
Using a wrench....Start working the nut back & forth little by little, Put a little left hand twist & start working back & forth again. It'll free up & come out pretty easily
The entire passenger side is cake on a chevy truck. Drivers side rear is tight but not terrible.
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- Nov 13, 2020
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Mine need this done as well. I have an 04 1500 with the 4.8 and at least 2 broken studs on each side.
This. Not sure what jetman is talking about. I guess it’s all on your ability level.
For those who are welding challenged, one poor boy fix is to run a bead of Permatex Ultra Copper along the interface of the exhaust manifold and block. It actually lasts a long time and keeps the exhaust gas from escaping. It is pretty tough to get along the bottom side of the exhaust manifold but seals up the top pretty well. Ultra copper contains no copper, its just the color and is the Permatex go-to for high temp RTV exhaust gaskets. Again a poor boy fix for those who are definitely not going the welding route. This bead is several years old. You can see where the bolt is broken off.
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SorryThis. Not sure what jetman is talking about. I guess it’s all on your ability level.
Y'all are talking about pickups, I'm talking about SUVs, specifically the 2007-2014 GMT900.
Impossible on my 07 Yukon w/6.2.
But the bridge clamps I mentioned previously will work on either chassis.
Thanks for all replies! I just talked to a local mechanic that says he can do it, hasn't come up with a cost yet though. I found a jig to use that helps drilling and extracting the bolts for $200, I might go that route and try it myself if the mechanic comes back with a super high price. Not sure how much to expect to pay for something like this, I know he will have quite a bit of time wrapped up in it.
Done many GMT900 SUV's with rear heat, Trucks are easier as you don't have to work around the auxiliary heater lines.
