UNDERCOATING?? Is it worth it?

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted By: jcwit
Last car I took to Ziebart I had the complete service done, at least thats what I paid for. Few months later I had a spring break in the inner door locking mechanism, the body man who knows me personally called me and asked if I didn't have the inner doors sprayed. Bingo, none of the inner panels were sprayed, just drilled and plugged.

Ziebart, never ever again.


I figured as much and that confirms it. I had good luck with them doing my van 25 years ago, but then again I watched like a hawk. I'll skip the 50 mile drive and do it myself. Not worth the $600 or the hassle baby sitting them.

 

[Kestas]

Is roofing cement different from roofing tar? I tried roofing tar 38 years ago. After a year it dried and mud-cracked. Didn't do what I expected.

I tried it because there was a news story of a guy who did it to his brand new 46 Dodge, drove it year round for 20 years before retiring the car from salt duty. It didn't have the horrible rust and perforation that cars did from that era.

 

[jcwit]

I think, and that in itself is dangerous, that the roof tar dries out harder and cracks more. The plastic roof cement stays pliable moreso.

 

[OilFool]

Originally Posted By: Oldswagon


Toyota used Noxudol 300 for the frame campaign. Does anyone know how this stuff holds up? How does it compare to Waxoyl?

http://www.noxudolusa.com/rust_protection/Rust_Protection.html


I was speaking of the ORIGINAL Toyoguard... the original that was applied to Toyotas in the late 70's/early 80's. Not for the recent campaigns.

Toyoguard has changed due to EPA regulations and now Toyota has plants here, it's not the same stuff which was the only thing I remember coming close to Waxoyl.
They use a less effective toyoguard now.
If you see an old Cressida, Corolla or the likes in a parking lot, and it's body looks good, drop something... pick it up and while down there, look under the car. No rust.

Toyota did have an issue with rust a few times. Obviously people did not opt for Toyoguard if it was in the timeframe of the original formula.

And just to answer your question about the "Noxudol 300 for the frame campaign"... I have a few guys I work with that had it done... and the results are nowhere close to Waxoyl. Nowhere.

My FIRST choice by far: Waxoyl
Second choice: ORIGINAL Toyoguard... have to buy the car as you can't get it anymore, at least in the USA.
I would NOT do "Rhino liner" types on a frame. Really, I would not use it in a pickup bed either. It traps moisture once compromised.
I used an epoxy base non-skid paint on pickup beds 10 years ago to do some pickups and utility truck beds, and it help up better than rhino liner. I cannot remember it's name though. I MAY be able to find out or search pics on the net and see if anything clicks.

(I have a nice job that exposes me to new products to test, industrial stuff... Hydrogen Toyotas that had a cost of $990,000/ea. Toyota needed real world fleet testing)

 

[Oldswagon]

Thanks Oil Fool, I misread your first post. Unfortunately, I haven't seen any 80's Toyota around here in a long time, so I won't be able to see Toyoguard in person.

I am curious though, since you have seen the Noxudol, do you think it's something worthwhile in being done? What type of undercoat is it? I have a Toyota truck where I can have this campaign done, but I haven't decided if I want to yet or not. I have always used Krown oil spray in Canada with great success and this truck has been sprayed since I owned it. Right now the frame is in great shape, but I do plan to keep the truck for a long time.

I am not sure if I should get Toyota to spray that Noxudol stuff on my truck, but I am considering it since it is free of charge. However, if it won't help things in the long run, or worse yet cause problems, I don't want to have it done. Regardless of whether I have it done or not, I still plan to get annual Krown sprays.

 

[OilFool]

Originally Posted By: Oldswagon
Thanks Oil Fool, I misread your first post. Unfortunately, I haven't seen any 80's Toyota around here in a long time, so I won't be able to see Toyoguard in person.


I am not sure if I should get Toyota to spray that Noxudol stuff on my truck, but I am considering it since it is free of charge. However, if it won't help things in the long run, or worse yet cause problems, I don't want to have it done. Regardless of whether I have it done or not, I still plan to get annual Krown sprays.


Honestly, I reallllllly think it depends on the dealer or who they contract out to spray. It's all in prep work. More often than not, it doesn't seem to be anything to write home about.
Wayoyl once with the mist inside frame, and done. So far so good on a 99 Land Rover. No rust. 150k+ in rust belt.
It says a lot to ME, that you can't buy Waxoyl.. You can't apply it wrong and give product a bad name. The stuff Toyota uses NOW you can buy.

 

[BituminousCoal]

I use fluid film now, works great. I have multiple vehicles with hundreds of thousands of miles on them and the newest is over 12 years old. No Rust on any of them AT ALL. This is in northern NY. I used to use waste motor oil and wax, heated and melted into the oil, then sprayed hot. Th e fluid film seems to work about as good and is a lot easier and cleaner. Yes, holes drilled and all - I find it funny that some are scared of a few 3/8 or so holes drilled and plugged, after years there is no rust on the vehicles and absolutely no blemishes around the holes/plugs either.

In western NY and canada there are a few places that will do an oil-based undercoating for you - Krown in ontario and united auto and schmidt's in buffalo.

Stay away from any of the "hard" undercoatings, they make it worse and are a big part of why undercoating with anything makes some people concerned.

 

[stenerson]

I sprayed FluidFilm under my truck 2 years ago. I slacked off this year but it's still coated for the most part.
I applied with a rusfre gun.

 

[Kestas]

I have a 22 year old car (original owner) treated with rustproofing. It's my winter daily driver. As yet there is no perforation in the sheet metal, certainly no corrosion from the inside. The outside is a different matter though.

 

[stenerson]

There's a place near me that's been in business for decades. He sprays some kind of hydraulic oil once a year to vehicles. Does inside of door panels, etc. Many of the locales swear by it and they got the proof. Several of my buddies get it done every year. Seems messy though because he sprays in the summer and tells them to drive in dusty backroads to let the dust cake on to the frame/undercarriage. It works but not for show cars.

 

[Kestas]

I can't understand why the dust would help. If anything, I expect it to wick up the oil and help it slough off.

 

[stenerson]

Originally Posted By: Kestas
I can't understand why the dust would help. If anything, I expect it to wick up the oil and help it slough off.


That doesn't seem to be problem with the folks I've talked to. One has a very old suburu and he showed the pristine undercarriage. Most old subes around here are rust buckets.

 

[sciphi]

Originally Posted By: Kestas
I can't understand why the dust would help. If anything, I expect it to wick up the oil and help it slough off.


On our cars the road dust has made a sort of barrier that keeps the Fluid Film underneath wet and in place.

 

[hisilver]

I also FF under my truck periodically. It really attracts dirt and sand but once its coated with dirt/sand its like a black grease that just doesn't come off. I don't spray everything, just areas beginning to show rust. Definitely makes working on it a messy situation.

 

[GearheadTool]

Originally Posted By: hisilver
I also FF under my truck periodically. It really attracts dirt and sand but once its coated with dirt/sand its like a black grease that just doesn't come off. I don't spray everything, just areas beginning to show rust. Definitely makes working on it a messy situation.


I was just about to say.. if one had a rusted car, would this be a good thing to use on it?

 

[hisilver]

Yep. It coats rust and in my experience (probably 10 cans) stops it for a good long while. In places where water doesn't hit real good it lasts many months.

 

[Kestas]

It'll work well as long as the application was done on a dry hot day. You wouldn't want to entrap moisture while doing this. If it's used like the compound I have, it's cut with mineral spirits, which helps it soak into all the nooks, crannies, and flaky rust before the mineral spirits flash off.

 

[stenerson]

Originally Posted By: hisilver
Yep. It coats rust and in my experience (probably 10 cans) stops it for a good long while. In places where water doesn't hit real good it lasts many months.


If you use that many cans it's much cheaper to buy the gallon cans and use a gun with compressed air. 10 cans would run 100 plus dollars. The gallons run about 40 and go a long way.

 

[Papa Bear]

Originally Posted By: kenpoed
I have an 05 Honda Accord, engine is in great shape and I am likely to drive this for well over 250,000 miles. Does anyone have an opinion on "Undercoating" this to not only reduce sound, but improve overall wear?

Suggestions welcome!


It's not the miles, it's the years you expect to own it.

There is a big difference between undercoating and "deadener".