Would better batteries give more light for small LED flashlight?

[paulri]

I have noticed that even dollar store AA batteries will produce more light (than rechargeables) in a pocket LED flashlight (50 lumens) I carry on walks around the neighborhood.

I am wondering if I were to put in a super duper battery like this (https://www.duracell.com/en-us/product/duracell-optimum-battery/)--would that produce even more light? Or would it merely last longer than the cheapo batteries I have in it now?

 

[jhellwig]

Lights that take 3 cells are often unregulated and are wholly dependent on battery voltage.

 

[ctechbob]

How many cells does the flashlight take? If it takes an even number, I will use a single 14500 lithium ion battery in conjuntion with 'dead cell' (Just a AA battery case that is shorted and has no internals. This will give you 3.6-4.2v instead of the 2.4-3v that a group of 2 NiMH or Alkaline will provide.

It is harder on the LED's, but if they are sufficiently cooled, it's usually not a problem. I have several small lights I've been doing this in for a long time. You might give up a little capacity (run time) but if you can get a good quality 14500 cell, then its not too bad.

Of course you also need a charger for them.

 

[paulri]

This flashlight takes two AA cells.

 

[ripcord]

The reason for the difference in brightness is due to voltage. The nominal voltage of regular alkaline cells is 1.5V. Rechargeable AA cells have a voltage of 1.2V.

Less volts, less photons.

 

[CharBaby]

IDK specifically however, I believe that the higher end batteries as you mention will give more starting out voltage(>1.6v) and then continue to just last that little bit longer.

 

[y_p_w]

It's basically just voltage, although there are a few LED lights that are regulated such that source voltage doesn't really matter as long as it's adequate. That can be useful since it would make the output consistent even as the battery voltage drops. I think most probably have some circuitry where the battery voltage will up the brightness because the battery isn't a regulated, ideal power source in that circuit.

 

[y_p_w]

IDK specifically however, I believe that the higher end batteries as you mention will give more starting out voltage(>1.6v) and then continue to just last that little bit longer.

It's really just newer batteries unless it's some unique battery chemistry. I've measured various batteries. Newish alkaline AAs would be more than 1.6V. I remember freshly charged NiMH (I preferred the ones made by Sanyo) would measure out to about 1.55V, but would settle quickly at about 1.35V. Of course they'd maintain the nominal 1.2V for a while, but they were still working pretty well in high drain applications where they were reading at 1.15V open circuit voltage. I didn't do too many tests under load.

I'm not sure what might be a medium drain application. My Mini Mag Lite LED Pro has maybe a 3 hour run time on AA alkalines. But that's at a point where the batteries get somewhat warm.

 

[circuitsmith]

I like these flashlights:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FTNY3ZK

with lithium-ion batteries:

https://www.amazon.com/CWXY-Replacement-Battery-Custom-14500/dp/B09KRFKYMK

 

[paulri]

From what I'm reading above, it looks like it simply depends on the number of volts that the battery is producing. I'll give Durcell a call today (tomorrow if they're closed for the holiday) and see what the voltage is on the one I linked to.

Thanks for pointing me in the right direction.

For most household uses, like consumer electronics, our rechargeables are just fine. But for something like a flashlight that will alert oncoming cars to my presence, I'll go with a brighter light and more volts.

 

[spasm3]

This is a great light. No taking batteries out to charge.

https://www.amazon.com/PEETPEN-Flashlight-Rechargeable-Resistant-Flashlights/dp/B08P4QHC6J/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=SNYYH06M4NG6&keywords=peetpen+led+flashlight&qid=1662384917&sprefix=peatpen%2Caps%2C139&sr=8-3

 

[y_p_w]

From what I'm reading above, it looks like it simply depends on the number of volts that the battery is producing. I'll give Durcell a call today (tomorrow if they're closed for the holiday) and see what the voltage is on the one I linked to.

Thanks for pointing me in the right direction.

For most household uses, like consumer electronics, our rechargeables are just fine. But for something like a flashlight that will alert oncoming cars to my presence, I'll go with a brighter light and more volts.

It may not last very long at that brightness. There's an incentive to use up the energy from alkaline batteries, but obviously they shouldn't be recharged. As a practical matter, you'll need to keep on feeding fresh alkalines to maintain that brightness.

But with rechargeable batteries, it's easy enough to recharge them before use to keep them near their maximum voltage.

Personally I'd recommend getting a set that uses more cells and then using rechargeables. I've got some lights that use 4 AAAs, and that's plenty bright.

 

[paulri]

That's an interesting strategy. Right now, it is just incredibly quick for me to stick my hand into my pocket and pull out the flashlight, and with the same motion I press my thumb on the button at the end that turns it on. It is small and light, which makes it ideal for a walk around a quiet residential street that has occasional traffic with drivers who assume there is nobody else around (and drive like it). I normally don't keep the flashlight on every minute of the walk. But if I decided to go a different route, that sounds like an excellent idea.

It may not last very long at that brightness. There's an incentive to use up the energy from alkaline batteries, but obviously they shouldn't be recharged. As a practical matter, you'll need to keep on feeding fresh alkalines to maintain that brightness.

But with rechargeable batteries, it's easy enough to recharge them before use to keep them near their maximum voltage.

Personally I'd recommend getting a set that uses more cells and then using rechargeables. I've got some lights that use 4 AAAs, and that's plenty bright.

 

[Warstud]

50 Lumens isn't much. Just buy a brighter flashlight. I think my Convoy is about 960 Lumens. It's small enough to put in my pocket - 3/4 dia x 4 1/2 lg.

 

[paulri]

OK, I'm looking around for a small lightweight model of at least 100 lumens. That would be double what I've got going now. Actually, I'll go higher as long as it is small & lightweight. I need to be able to use it quickly (I also walk an 80 lb belgian malinois so using it in one hand is an absolute must). I occasionally use both hands to pull on the leash.

50 Lumens isn't much. Just buy a brighter flashlight. I think my Convoy is about 960 Lumens. It's small enough to put in my pocket - 3/4 dia x 4 1/2 lg.

 

[y_p_w]

That's an interesting strategy. Right now, it is just incredibly quick for me to stick my hand into my pocket and pull out the flashlight, and with the same motion I press my thumb on the button at the end that turns it on. It is small and light, which makes it ideal for a walk around a quiet residential street that has occasional traffic with drivers who assume there is nobody else around (and drive like it). I normally don't keep the flashlight on every minute of the walk. But if I decided to go a different route, that sounds like an excellent idea.

I keep an old Cateye HL-EL010 single AA cell bike light. It's not particularly bright, but is plenty to have drivers see me at night and works great with Eneloop-equivalent AAs. But I have a lot of batteries that I rotate in and out, so and I'll top them off every day or so. I'm not trying to use up the energy in an alkaline. I personally think it's a sensible way to use it, since I'm not worried that I'm near the end of practical life of an alkaline.

 

[Warstud]

OK, I'm looking around for a small lightweight model of at least 100 lumens. That would be double what I've got going now. Actually, I'll go higher as long as it is small & lightweight.

What's your budget ?

 

[ripcord]

Sounds like you could use a nice head lamp.

 

[paulri]

I'd like to stay within $20 for a single flashlight; in the past I've bought a pair at a time in a cheaper kit that had 2 for $15 or so. I plan to buy a second unit once I knew the first one fit my needs. I realize that the more power the flashlight has, the more it will likely cost.

Since folks are starting to make specific recommendations, let me also say that the if there are 3-4 modes, I suppose I can live with that, but I love being able to get max brightness with one click of the thumb. More modes might mean a few more seconds if I have to cycle through the modes because I clicked once too many times.

What's your budget ?

 

[Carmudgeon]

Quality NiMH cells are great for LSD applications, and Alkaleaks are convenient and readily available, but it's not by accident that lithium batteries have become so prevalent. Their energy density and power output, along with low self discharge rates are a hard combination to beat, with the caveat that the risk from neglect and/or lunkhead behavior also increases with that higher energy potential.

Some suggestions:

Wurkkos FC11 - very popular "muggle" light. High CRI emitter, simple, logical UI, onboard charging, and more than enough output for general usage. Orange peel reflector with medium/short range. A bit more than $20, but value and quality is still good.

FC12 is a lengthier derivative with a tail switch, and longer range beam from SFT40 emitter, albeit not high CRI.
Sofirn SC31T is a twin with a different badge and SST40 emitter.

Sofirn SC31 Pro is the T without a tailswitch, and Anduril firmware. Very flexible, but not something I'd recommend to neophytes.

These two twins are brand new models, so no user reviews yet. They are more compact, and fit the budget. SST40 emitter capable of higher output, but not high CRI. TIR optic should result in a genreally useful medium/short range beam.

Wurkkos WK03
Sofirm SC18

There are plenty other options, but these two brands are popular with flashlight fans for their price/quality ratio. They can also be had from Amazon, but since Bezos treats marketplace sellers little better than he does his workers, the prices are higher, though discount codes within range of buying direct.

Buying direct involves a ~two week wait for delivery from China, but there are more options available that aren't stocked by the FBA marketplace option.

Discount codes are commonly teased on the related forums to keep sales interest going, but a hassle to track, though not hard to find.

Body color, and color temperature are a matter of preference. Ironically some of the most devoted enthusaists favor modern flashlights that appear more like the feeble incandescent lights of old.

14500 cells allow for more compact lights, but have less capcity, and aren't as common/popular as 18650 cells, should spares of replacments be desired. 18650 lights can also be pretty compact, as the two above, or the Sofirn SC32 demonstrate. Lights that advertise compatibility with both 14500 and AA cells will only perform at the maximum with the former.

Any of the above will be a step up from the cheap, driverless lights that a sold as multiples for one price, and more than suitable for the intended purpose.

Finally, don't fixate on the output level. Flashlight marketing overemphasizes the maximum, though fleeting, figures from the turbo modes, but under sustained usage, levels are only a fraction of those figures. The FC11 above really only outputs between 200-400 lumens from 1-2 minutes onward. For some lights, depnding on their heat capaity, that period can be even shorter.