Why isnt there more love for Quaker State?

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Originally Posted by ChrisD46
*PP has A5/B5 sheer resistant rating where as QSUD does not . I believe only only PP and M1 5W30 are shown meeting A5/B5 in 5W30 synthetic from WM . I drive a Hyundai GDI engine , so I change my oil around a severe duty schedule 3,750 miles) thus I would not hesitate to use QSUD 5W30m in my Hyundai GDI engine .

QSUD used to have A1/B1 if not A5/B5. Generally speaking, I'd have similar confidence in it to other A5/B5 options, unless I were really concerned about ensuring a formal claim of A5/B5 existed for a specific oil.
 
I run QSUD in 5W-30 in my Nissan Fromtier pool service fleet trucks. Change it every 5 thousand miles. Probably should change it every 3 thousand and because the pool routes are nothing but start and stop, start and stop all day long, five days a week.when we have it changed it still looks good. We're happy with it. We use Pennzoil Platinum 0W-20 in our Toyota Tacoma's.
 
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Originally Posted by SubieRubyRoo
It just amazes me how people think the severe service OCI schedule can eliminate the effects of bad engineering.

Wanna know the real way to fix bad engineering? STOP BUYING CARS WITH BAD ENGINEERING, regardless of the warranty they offer! Those manufacturers will either fix it, or go out of business. Never buy a first year "all-new" car model, or a new engine during the first three years, if you're looking to avoid major headaches, IMHO. That's why I won't be buying a Subaru 2.4T until at least 2021-2022. Let somebody else figure out any bugs LoL.

I'd much rather have a car on the far side of warranty coverage that never needed it, rather than a 100k mile warranty that was in the shop every 30k for major repairs or recalls...


Who said anything about severe service OCI fixing bad engineering?
 
What I love most about QSUD is that I get it for $2.99/qt at Menards every couple months ...„. No reason NOT to buy it at that price.
 
Originally Posted by cbpat1
I run QSUD in 5W-30 in my Nissan Fromtier pool service fleet trucks. Change it every 5 thousand miles. Probably should change it every 3 thousand and because the pool routes are nothing but start and stop, start and stop all day long, five days a week.when we have it changed it still looks good. We're happy with it. We use Pennzoil Platinum 0W-20 in our Toyota Tacoma's.



I bet at 5K miles the oil has quite a bit of life left.
 
Originally Posted by dave1251
Originally Posted by cbpat1
I run QSUD in 5W-30 in my Nissan Fromtier pool service fleet trucks. Change it every 5 thousand miles. Probably should change it every 3 thousand and because the pool routes are nothing but start and stop, start and stop all day long, five days a week.when we have it changed it still looks good. We're happy with it. We use Pennzoil Platinum 0W-20 in our Toyota Tacoma's.



I bet at 5K miles the oil has quite a bit of life left.


This was my personal experience with QSUD 5030 miles.

March OIC 2019 (2)_LI.jpg
 
Originally Posted by Treadstone
Who said anything about severe service OCI fixing bad engineering?


Completely in general; I see lots of Hyundai/Kia owners especially here on the board going "I only follow severe service maintenance regimen" and giving off the impression they think this will prevent their engine from ever suffering some of the catastrophic failures I believe the Theta(?) engines have been dealing with. Similar to other engineering issues with MDS cams for Chrysler and DOD cams for GM, changing oil more frequently, or to a heavier grade, or etc etc etc, it will not fix the existing engineering issue. Burla appears to have found a band-aid for his Hemi issues by using Redline. Sometimes you can delay the inevitable for a short period of time, but it's still going to eventually fail.
 
Originally Posted by SubieRubyRoo
Originally Posted by Treadstone
Who said anything about severe service OCI fixing bad engineering?


Completely in general; I see lots of Hyundai/Kia owners especially here on the board going "I only follow severe service maintenance regimen" and giving off the impression they think this will prevent their engine from ever suffering some of the catastrophic failures I believe the Theta(?) engines have been dealing with. Similar to other engineering issues with MDS cams for Chrysler and DOD cams for GM, changing oil more frequently, or to a heavier grade, or etc etc etc, it will not fix the existing engineering issue. Burla appears to have found a band-aid for his Hemi issues by using Redline. Sometimes you can delay the inevitable for a short period of time, but it's still going to eventually fail.



I go by the severe service interval because it just makes sense. My average speed in 26-27 MPH. That means a lot of stop and go driving. And I live in a hilly area. GDI produced soot that wears timing chains. So, it makes sense. Oil is cheap insurance, and this is an oil forum. But is seems to me lots of members here detest changing their oil....

My Lambda II engine is not prone to the same problems of the Theta series. But I don't think anyone here will say that a shorter OCI will fix the problems that series is having. It may delay it, but not fix it.
 
Originally Posted by Treadstone
Originally Posted by SubieRubyRoo
Originally Posted by Treadstone
Who said anything about severe service OCI fixing bad engineering?


Completely in general; I see lots of Hyundai/Kia owners especially here on the board going "I only follow severe service maintenance regimen" and giving off the impression they think this will prevent their engine from ever suffering some of the catastrophic failures I believe the Theta(?) engines have been dealing with. Similar to other engineering issues with MDS cams for Chrysler and DOD cams for GM, changing oil more frequently, or to a heavier grade, or etc etc etc, it will not fix the existing engineering issue. Burla appears to have found a band-aid for his Hemi issues by using Redline. Sometimes you can delay the inevitable for a short period of time, but it's still going to eventually fail.



I go by the severe service interval because it just makes sense. My average speed in 26-27 MPH. That means a lot of stop and go driving. And I live in a hilly area. GDI produced soot that wears timing chains. So, it makes sense. Oil is cheap insurance, and this is an oil forum. But is seems to me lots of members here detest changing their oil....

My Lambda II engine is not prone to the same problems of the Theta series. But I don't think anyone here will say that a shorter OCI will fix the problems that series is having. It may delay it, but not fix it.


He's criticizing you for buying a junky car in the first place not for the oil you use
 
Originally Posted by JohnnyJohnson
Originally Posted by dave1251
Originally Posted by cbpat1
I run QSUD in 5W-30 in my Nissan Fromtier pool service fleet trucks. Change it every 5 thousand miles. Probably should change it every 3 thousand and because the pool routes are nothing but start and stop, start and stop all day long, five days a week.when we have it changed it still looks good. We're happy with it. We use Pennzoil Platinum 0W-20 in our Toyota Tacoma's.



I bet at 5K miles the oil has quite a bit of life left.


This was my personal experience with QSUD 5030 miles.


QS looks excellent !!
Castrol Edge cost more but in the scope of things
The QS is doing an excellent job for less money
 
Originally Posted by ad244

He's criticizing you for buying a junky car in the first place not for the oil you use


Ignorance is bliss, huh?

It is amazing how fools on this forum insist on flaunting their ignorance.

I bet you I get more miles out if this vehicle than I got out of my last Chevy....
 
Originally Posted by SubieRubyRoo
QSUD is a great oil for the price; no doubt that SOPUS is likely steering excess GTL into QSUD. Even if they aren't, QSUD usually has a little more moly and boron than most, and is a little thicker in each grade. About the only downside is there are rarely rebates on this brand, but occasionally places like Menards will throw it on sale.

At an easy $20 any time at WM, along with a $6-9 FTG or FU, it's a no-brainer for 10k OCIs. Don't be a lemming and just follow the fickle masses on here with unfounded brand prejudices, QSUD is more than enough oil to get your vehicle (even from brand new) all the way to 300k and beyond.

I don't know about 10K OCI's in my 2013 Chevy DI engine, but I really agree with the rest of your post.
QSUD is excellent oil at a fantastic Wally World price, I've always wondered what the HTHS of QSUD 5W-30 and 10W-30 is?
 
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Originally Posted by Treadstone
Originally Posted by ad244

He's criticizing you for buying a junky car in the first place not for the oil you use


Ignorance is bliss, huh?

It is amazing how fools on this forum insist on flaunting their ignorance.

I bet you I get more miles out if this vehicle than I got out of my last Chevy....


I wasn't criticizing anybody. Don't let some sht stirrer create something that's not there.

If I was criticizing anyone, it would be the bean counters that try to save a nickel at the expense of the vehicle's reliability, and the engineers that don't put up more of a fight to deliver the best they can do. Very, very few companies seem to care about the end user anymore...
 
Originally Posted by SubieRubyRoo


I wasn't criticizing anybody. Don't let some sht stirrer create something that's not there.

If I was criticizing anyone, it would be the bean counters that try to save a nickel at the expense of the vehicle's reliability, and the engineers that don't put up more of a fight to deliver the best they can do. Very, very few companies seem to care about the end user anymore...


Quoted for truth.
 
I switched to QSGB after Exxon Superflo went away. But then the zinc flat tappet scare happened and I switched to other things. I still run it in my old dodge (roller cam) and have been thinking about trying it in the Jeep now I see it has the mopar MS-6395 cert. It is $14.something at my wm for 5qrt jugs.
 
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Originally Posted by CrAlt
I switched to QSGB after Exxon Superflo went away. But then the zinc flat tappet scare happened and I switched to other things. I still run it in my old dodge (roller cam) and have been thinking about trying it in the Jeep now I see it has the mopar MS-6395 cert. It is $14.something at my wm for 5qrt jugs.


And at this price it's a good buy.
 
I use the QS dino in my Buick with no problems. Once I get the leaking valve covers fixed I'll probably go synthetic in it as well, but no point in it now as I don't wanna waste good oil!

May try Pennzoil dino next, I dunno. QS is hard to beat price wise! Although I think PZ will handle the longer OLM intervals. I'm already almost to 3k miles and only at 84% on the OLM.
 
As far as your question goes, I think it's lack of advertising more than anything. Pennzoil is the bread and butter of Shell's US market. How many times do you see QS advertised over Pennzoil? I can't honestly remember the last time I saw a QS ad come to think of it.
 
Originally Posted by ad244
5qt of Ultimate Durability & an STP extended filter for $26

Especially from the price point, is there any reasons why its not more widely used on BITOG?


Motor oil connoisseurs are not buying their favorite bottling and vintage based upon a coupon price. Most of these sophisticated palettes are choosing what they believe to be the most effective formulation for their application.

That being said, I shop based on pricing and availability. I firmly believe that for my non-performance, daily commuter car; any and every over the counter oil carries the API marking, and meets the needs of my less than glamorous car. Let's face it. You have a Honda Civic. I have a couple of Fords. Someone else is driving a Hyundai, or Toyota. None of these are Ferrari, Corvette, et cetera. Let's say 9 out of 10 cars on the road are not high end performance machines. 90% of us could use the cheapest oil from Wal*Mart, follow the manufacturer's recommended oil change interval, and just drive our cars in daily commute.
 
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