Owen Lucas
$100 Site Donor 2023
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Need some long jumper cables for the trunk. There are lots of no name brands on Amazon that look tempting. Is there any go-to brand or supplier of high quality jumper cables?
What is a good brand of jumper cables?
- Thread starter Owen Lucas
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4WD
$50 site donor 2024
You want heavy and copper
I wouldn't get hung up on brands but choose a set with the heaviest cables. The lowest AWG number.
Even then, most of what is sold on Amazon is CCA (Copper-clad aluminum) which is stiff and clunky in the cold weather, and simply doesn’t work as well. I’ve bought Deka (East Penn) and they’re good. Pure copper, not stiff and clunky. But not cheap.
Deka 4 Gauge 16 Foot Booster Cables https://a.co/d/eLGcpbE
Get a cable from a welding shop and build your own
Cartman and Autogen come up frequently in jumper cable testing. CarandDriver and popular science have a couple of recent tests and seem to have a Similar conclusion.
Jumper cable test
Jumper cable test
Real copper and 4 gauge is the gold standard.
CCA 4 gauge is "ok" but more unwieldly.
16ft is a reasonable length(medium) 50$
www.farmandhomesupply.com
These are CCA but a good value for 21$
if 12ft is long enough here are some 4ga copper $30
CCA 4 gauge is "ok" but more unwieldly.
16ft is a reasonable length(medium) 50$
Durastart 4GA Copper 16FT Jumper Cables
SKU 55620419 - They have large color-coded clamps that are easy to use and the cables are flexible and tangle-free and provide for easy polarity identification. They are designed for front-to-front and side-to-side hookups only. The clamps feature Nickle coated jaws and vinyl-coated clams to...
www.farmandhomesupply.com
These are CCA but a good value for 21$
if 12ft is long enough here are some 4ga copper $30
^^^^This is the best solution and what I did for each of my three vehicles. Not everyone has soldering skills to really do it right.
solder gets brittle Crimping is better IMO.
Owen Lucas
$100 Site Donor 2023
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Thank you everyone. I was not aware of copper cladded aluminum. I definitely want pure copper and am fine paying a premium for it. When jumping a vehicle, you don't want to a have low quality cable.
This is for my parents vehicle and my dad is old school, a new fangled booster box would be too complicated for him though I think it is the best solution as long as it's checked / charged on a regular basis. I'll probably get one for my self though.
Thank you @Astro14, Deka looks like the only high end name brand out there, and being pure copper, that's the way to go, ordered!
This is for my parents vehicle and my dad is old school, a new fangled booster box would be too complicated for him though I think it is the best solution as long as it's checked / charged on a regular basis. I'll probably get one for my self though.
Thank you @Astro14, Deka looks like the only high end name brand out there, and being pure copper, that's the way to go, ordered!
I have some that my father made out of welding cable. They work very well!
I'm afraid to take them anywhere because I am afraid of scrappers stealing them
I'm afraid to take them anywhere because I am afraid of scrappers stealing them
The thickest AWG and longest you can find/afford/fit. I got stuck somewhere and dropped $80 in 1991 for a set at NAPA I still own to today. I believe they are 20’ long and carry a ton of amps. They remind me of what you’d use welding.
Same ones I have.
I have some that dad had made at work. I think they are like 25 ft long, pure copper, heavy clamps, they used the wire for when they made battery cables for their trucks (large public utility company). They are also quite heavy. I have 5 other pairs that range from cheaper and shorter to heavier gauge and longer. They are my backup plan in each car but rarely used.
All the cars have one of the jump packs (Gooloo and DB power). They get used more frequently, normally to help others, much more convenient, doesn't take the chance YOUR electrical system. I charge all the jump packs like 2x per year and they usually have at least 4/5 light on still when checked.
PSA- Where do you keep your cables and jump pack? Check to see how you access the trunk if your battery is dead. Is there a key? Lever/cable? Push button inside or outside? My daughter KILLED her battery. Lights on for multiple days. Not enough power to unlock doors or tailgate (electric pushbutton outside) In the owners manual there is a "in case of emergency" that covers it on her CRV and the Pilot. Remove the plastic access cover and push tab. Her tailgate covers the spare tire cover so you can't lift it up if tailgate is closed. That was where her jump pack USED to be. Now it resides between her front seats under the flip console table thing. Cables are still by spare but she knows how to get to them if needed anyway.
All the cars have one of the jump packs (Gooloo and DB power). They get used more frequently, normally to help others, much more convenient, doesn't take the chance YOUR electrical system. I charge all the jump packs like 2x per year and they usually have at least 4/5 light on still when checked.
PSA- Where do you keep your cables and jump pack? Check to see how you access the trunk if your battery is dead. Is there a key? Lever/cable? Push button inside or outside? My daughter KILLED her battery. Lights on for multiple days. Not enough power to unlock doors or tailgate (electric pushbutton outside) In the owners manual there is a "in case of emergency" that covers it on her CRV and the Pilot. Remove the plastic access cover and push tab. Her tailgate covers the spare tire cover so you can't lift it up if tailgate is closed. That was where her jump pack USED to be. Now it resides between her front seats under the flip console table thing. Cables are still by spare but she knows how to get to them if needed anyway.
Time to move onto the 21st Century seriously. A truly good cable set is NOT cheap
and costs about the same price as :
and costs about the same price as :
NOCO Genius Boost Plus GB40 Jump-Starter Power Pack
Mechanical connections are not better than soldering. If the surfaces are clean prior and soldered correctly, nothing is going to break the solder joint. If it breaks, it was not done correctly. The clamps have a clamping strain relief on them anyway so there is no strain on the solder connections.
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I have really good cables I have had for 30 years that hang in the garage. I carry this now instead. That way I don't have to risk boosting anyone else - just use the box. 59 bucks at walmart.com
