Waterpump as PM?
- Thread starter ford46guy
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Nothing wrong with that even if you never need them they can either go with the vehicle when you sell it or sell them off later after its gone.
That sounds like a safe be to me. I like the way you have this sorted beforehand.
Maybe apples and oranges, but the 528e's original WP failed around 190 K. It was summertime. It used a manageable 1/2 gallon of water each way for its normal commute in and out of Boston. IIRC, I ran it de-pressurized. YMMV
I've been debating doing radiator and WP as PM on two of my vehicles - both are 12 years old w/ 170K miles. I figure at this point, the plastic radiator tanks are likely to crack, and if I'm going to do the radiator or the water pump, I might as well do both. I just don't know if I should do them before any signs of failure.
The one car has the water pump in the normal spot and would probably be a one hour job. The other, the water pump is driven by the timing chain. In theory, it can be removed without dumping much coolant into the oil. Also, in theory, it can fail without dumping coolant into the oil. I would hate for a PM water pump change to result in having to break the seal on the timing chain cover due to the chain jumping while I had the pump out - which would result in me changing all the timing components while I am in there.
The one car has the water pump in the normal spot and would probably be a one hour job. The other, the water pump is driven by the timing chain. In theory, it can be removed without dumping much coolant into the oil. Also, in theory, it can fail without dumping coolant into the oil. I would hate for a PM water pump change to result in having to break the seal on the timing chain cover due to the chain jumping while I had the pump out - which would result in me changing all the timing components while I am in there.
I haven’t had a pump fail due to mileage but I have seen an impeller rust to nothing due to the coolant never being changed. I know the bearings and seals can go but I haven’t had it happen to me yet.
Original WP on my Liberty started weeping badly at 108k, replaced it. Then a week later the radiator started leaking. Cheap aftermarket radiator lasted till 168k and got a Mopar one back in it.
LR3 is still on the OEM water pump at 165k (knock on wood, got a trip coming up!) but the OEM tstat housing was leaking for a year or two starting at about 155k and the radiator just got replaced at 165k for a bad leak that happened after replacing the tstat/ tstat housing.
My XJ is on its original radiator as far as I can tell, if not, it's definitely old. Has 140k on it. I replaced the OEM water pump and tstat at 120k ish miles just for the sake of doing them.
I guess I don't really have a point in any of this...LOL. I'd say if the WP isn't leaking or making noises and seems to work, leave it unless you have overheating issues. In my experience, you run the risk of damaging other stuff. I suppose you could correctly argue that if a radiator leaks after a WP replacement, then it was compromised anyway. But, why create issues if you don't have to?
LR3 is still on the OEM water pump at 165k (knock on wood, got a trip coming up!) but the OEM tstat housing was leaking for a year or two starting at about 155k and the radiator just got replaced at 165k for a bad leak that happened after replacing the tstat/ tstat housing.
My XJ is on its original radiator as far as I can tell, if not, it's definitely old. Has 140k on it. I replaced the OEM water pump and tstat at 120k ish miles just for the sake of doing them.
I guess I don't really have a point in any of this...LOL. I'd say if the WP isn't leaking or making noises and seems to work, leave it unless you have overheating issues. In my experience, you run the risk of damaging other stuff. I suppose you could correctly argue that if a radiator leaks after a WP replacement, then it was compromised anyway. But, why create issues if you don't have to?
My 2002 Ranger didn't need a WP until almost 200K miles. It took at least a couple weeks to get bad, but it was hemorrhaging at the end. The impeller was actually in perfect shape, the seal just totally failed. It was a kind of rapid failure, but not so much I'd replace the pump as preventive maintenance. I still had plenty of warning.
I know a number of people with Toyota 4.7 trucks that had leaks just before 100K miles, but it basically coincided with timing belt replacement and got handled then.
I know a number of people with Toyota 4.7 trucks that had leaks just before 100K miles, but it basically coincided with timing belt replacement and got handled then.
Originally Posted By: artificialist
If you are changing a timing belt, change the pump. Otherwise the pump may fail when the timing belt still has some life left. Then you waste a large amount of parts and labor on a new timing belt. This happened to both of my parents once. This is also why people replace tensioners and pulleys when they replace the timing belt.
However, I have never read about a schedule for replacing a water pump on an engine that uses a timing chain.
Certainly, and I although they may be out there I haven’t seen a maintenance schedule that addressed what to do after 150,000 miles.
If you are changing a timing belt, change the pump. Otherwise the pump may fail when the timing belt still has some life left. Then you waste a large amount of parts and labor on a new timing belt. This happened to both of my parents once. This is also why people replace tensioners and pulleys when they replace the timing belt.
However, I have never read about a schedule for replacing a water pump on an engine that uses a timing chain.
Certainly, and I although they may be out there I haven’t seen a maintenance schedule that addressed what to do after 150,000 miles.
Originally Posted By: rooflessVW
Originally Posted By: Trav
Pumps usually give a warning time not just let go dumping coolant all over the place.
Unless it's a VW or BMW, lol.
Or anything with an electric Water Pump
Originally Posted By: Trav
Pumps usually give a warning time not just let go dumping coolant all over the place.
Unless it's a VW or BMW, lol.
Or anything with an electric Water Pump
For WP's driven by the accessory belt I would replace it when coolant starts weeping or makes a whining noise. On TB driven pumps might was well do it with the TB belt replacement.
I've replaced the WPs on the Silverado and Tundra twice already.
I've replaced the WPs on the Silverado and Tundra twice already.
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There might other reasons to change the pump. If your power steering pump is going, you might be pulling some items that are common to both jobs, such as the fan shroud, and perhaps the fan. Also, if it’s time to change coolant , and you have say 150,000 miles on the pump, it might be a good time, or finally, if you are loosing sleep thinking about your upcoming summer vacation RV towing trip, then change the pump.
I have the parts... but not really, there's still pulley bearings on the compressor, PS and generator that could be replaced for a 100% PM job...probably not feasible to replace those without replacing the each unit...I imagine they too will get old and noisy.
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