Probably varies with vehicle, if below zero I warm up a couple of minutes and then drive slowly for a few blocks. especially with the 2010 forester. The 4EAT is a bit sluggish until the trans fluid is warmed up a bit from a few blocks of driving. Most vehicles are probably ok with a minute or 2 of warm up and some easy driving for the first mile or 2.
Vehicle warm up question
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It's been 0 and below last couple days so the Malibu get 3-5 mins 2 warm up. Normally when its 20-40 it gets remote started as i walk out the house then i hop in the car and keep the rpms under 2k till warm. The taurus on the other hand gets 5-10 mins 2 warm up this cold cause it takes forever to warm up. Above 20 i just start and go.
This morning I started up the work truck (gas silverado 4wd 4.8l) I had at home because I was on call and it was sitting outside overnight at -11F and I let it warm up two minutes and drove gently and it did not like it at all. I really had to stay in the throttle more than I thought I would to maintain speed, from the all the resistance from the drive line.
I pull out onto a 55 mph road basically from my driveway and I only went 35 to 40 since it was new years day and there was no traffic. Normally if I did this there would be a line of enraged rednecks in pickup trucks riding 1 ft. from my rear bumper. But anyway the transmission flared really bad on the first 2-3 shift and it just seemed very hard on the vehicle. the speedometer also was stuck at zero almost until I got to work.
I will probably keep warming up my personal vehicle for at least 10 minutes when it gets this cold, and honestly when it gets to -17 tonight I will likely run my car at least 20-30 minutes before I leave for work.
I pull out onto a 55 mph road basically from my driveway and I only went 35 to 40 since it was new years day and there was no traffic. Normally if I did this there would be a line of enraged rednecks in pickup trucks riding 1 ft. from my rear bumper. But anyway the transmission flared really bad on the first 2-3 shift and it just seemed very hard on the vehicle. the speedometer also was stuck at zero almost until I got to work.
I will probably keep warming up my personal vehicle for at least 10 minutes when it gets this cold, and honestly when it gets to -17 tonight I will likely run my car at least 20-30 minutes before I leave for work.
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Originally Posted By: irv
I also, (and have for many years now), place my transmission in neutral while warming up. We had an old work van that would not shift in the cold until it was warmed up. Another worker there told me put it in neutral in the winter/cold as it gets the pump working which helps warm up and get the tranny fluid flowing.
Anyone else do this? It worked on that work van and my current Ram also shifts a lot better than if I just started off from park rather than neutral.
The OLD dodges used to benefit from this... memory escapes me how but has to do with the TC draining IIRC.
I also, (and have for many years now), place my transmission in neutral while warming up. We had an old work van that would not shift in the cold until it was warmed up. Another worker there told me put it in neutral in the winter/cold as it gets the pump working which helps warm up and get the tranny fluid flowing.
Anyone else do this? It worked on that work van and my current Ram also shifts a lot better than if I just started off from park rather than neutral.
The OLD dodges used to benefit from this... memory escapes me how but has to do with the TC draining IIRC.
I dont know much about oil temps but at -10F (past week) I have my block heater plugged in and let it run a few mins before very gently getting the car moving.
Originally Posted By: irv
I also, (and have for many years now), place my transmission in neutral while warming up. We had an old work van that would not shift in the cold until it was warmed up. Another worker there told me put it in neutral in the winter/cold as it gets the pump working which helps warm up and get the tranny fluid flowing.
Anyone else do this? It worked on that work van and my current Ram also shifts a lot better than if I just started off from park rather than neutral.
When I had my manual transmission jeep I would sometimes put the T-case in neutral and put the vehicle in 1st or reverse to warm up the fluid. I have never done this with an automatic.
Now I remember with my old ford ranger when it got below zero and you did a cold start and let the clutch out the drag it placed on the engine was quite noticeable. If you were on level ground and took the parking brake off the vehicle would move a little.
Same with my old air-cooled vws, they had even thicker trans axle fluid and would really move in neutral when it was really cold.
I also, (and have for many years now), place my transmission in neutral while warming up. We had an old work van that would not shift in the cold until it was warmed up. Another worker there told me put it in neutral in the winter/cold as it gets the pump working which helps warm up and get the tranny fluid flowing.
Anyone else do this? It worked on that work van and my current Ram also shifts a lot better than if I just started off from park rather than neutral.
When I had my manual transmission jeep I would sometimes put the T-case in neutral and put the vehicle in 1st or reverse to warm up the fluid. I have never done this with an automatic.
Now I remember with my old ford ranger when it got below zero and you did a cold start and let the clutch out the drag it placed on the engine was quite noticeable. If you were on level ground and took the parking brake off the vehicle would move a little.
Same with my old air-cooled vws, they had even thicker trans axle fluid and would really move in neutral when it was really cold.
Originally Posted By: cronk
I look at it more from the safety factor. I like to at least get enough heat to make sure the defroster is working and I can clear the windshield.
It was -32f here last week, car started up fine with 0w40 but took 25 minutes before I got the windows thawed out so I could see safely.
Shouldn't take that long to clear your windshield. You may have a defective thermostat.
In very cold conditions (-20 F or so) it helps to put a piece of cardboard in front of the radiator to warm the engine faster, but you have to remove it once it's warmed up or you'll overheat - and that's not good.
There's a fine balance between sitting and idling (while consuming fuel and not warming up much) and driving (which warms things up pretty quickly) before you can see well.
I look at it more from the safety factor. I like to at least get enough heat to make sure the defroster is working and I can clear the windshield.
It was -32f here last week, car started up fine with 0w40 but took 25 minutes before I got the windows thawed out so I could see safely.
Shouldn't take that long to clear your windshield. You may have a defective thermostat.
In very cold conditions (-20 F or so) it helps to put a piece of cardboard in front of the radiator to warm the engine faster, but you have to remove it once it's warmed up or you'll overheat - and that's not good.
There's a fine balance between sitting and idling (while consuming fuel and not warming up much) and driving (which warms things up pretty quickly) before you can see well.
It'll be well below zero again tonight, so tomorrow morning I'll start the newer Forester and let it run for ten or fifteen minutes before my wife takes off for work in it.
I'll get in the newer Accord and go after a minute or two, although I'll drive very gently for the first few miles.
The engine does warm up more quickly with moderate driving than it would if left idling for the same length of time.
I'll get in the newer Accord and go after a minute or two, although I'll drive very gently for the first few miles.
The engine does warm up more quickly with moderate driving than it would if left idling for the same length of time.
Originally Posted By: eljefino
Originally Posted By: irv
I also, (and have for many years now), place my transmission in neutral while warming up. We had an old work van that would not shift in the cold until it was warmed up. Another worker there told me put it in neutral in the winter/cold as it gets the pump working which helps warm up and get the tranny fluid flowing.
Anyone else do this? It worked on that work van and my current Ram also shifts a lot better than if I just started off from park rather than neutral.
The OLD dodges used to benefit from this... memory escapes me how but has to do with the TC draining IIRC.
My current Ram is a 2013 and I still believe putting it in neutral before I leave for a few moments/minutes (depending on the temp) still helps.
I have tried both ways and imo, it definitely shifts better/easier when I put it in neutral than those times I don't.
Of course, my E-Brake is on or my foot is on my brake while doing so, especially since my driveway is sloped.
Originally Posted By: irv
I also, (and have for many years now), place my transmission in neutral while warming up. We had an old work van that would not shift in the cold until it was warmed up. Another worker there told me put it in neutral in the winter/cold as it gets the pump working which helps warm up and get the tranny fluid flowing.
Anyone else do this? It worked on that work van and my current Ram also shifts a lot better than if I just started off from park rather than neutral.
The OLD dodges used to benefit from this... memory escapes me how but has to do with the TC draining IIRC.
My current Ram is a 2013 and I still believe putting it in neutral before I leave for a few moments/minutes (depending on the temp) still helps.
I have tried both ways and imo, it definitely shifts better/easier when I put it in neutral than those times I don't.
Of course, my E-Brake is on or my foot is on my brake while doing so, especially since my driveway is sloped.
There's warming for engine lube.
There's warming for transmission function.
There's warming for creature comfort.
Each one takes longer than the last. Curiously my Corolla auto does not like to go into top gear until warmed up, this is a known thing with this transmission, it is designed that way and is not a problem. Fortunately it warms up very, very fast.
If you put cardboard in front of the radiator, it doesn't have to be the entire radiator. Truckers do this partial radiator blocking all the time. Radiators are large and sized for extreme Summer conditions (unless you have an early Chevy Vega or something else poorly designed like that). At worst the thermostat will run open a bit more.
There's warming for transmission function.
There's warming for creature comfort.
Each one takes longer than the last. Curiously my Corolla auto does not like to go into top gear until warmed up, this is a known thing with this transmission, it is designed that way and is not a problem. Fortunately it warms up very, very fast.
If you put cardboard in front of the radiator, it doesn't have to be the entire radiator. Truckers do this partial radiator blocking all the time. Radiators are large and sized for extreme Summer conditions (unless you have an early Chevy Vega or something else poorly designed like that). At worst the thermostat will run open a bit more.
Took the 2012 Mazda 3 tonight. It has been sitting since Saturday. Of course, it is garaged, so not as cold as the MGM this morning. After about two miles of driving, the blue cold engine light turns off. This car has heated leather seats, so heat from the heater is not as critical.
The routine for this car is get in, push garage door button, push start button, put on seat belt, check in the moon roof that the garage door is up, back out and drive.
The routine for this car is get in, push garage door button, push start button, put on seat belt, check in the moon roof that the garage door is up, back out and drive.
Originally Posted By: supton
Been eons since I had a car that truly needed to warm up (back in the bad old carb days).
Yes, those days are mostly gone. The F-150, though, is still a relic, and if driving around town, a proper warmup is essential. If going on a place where I can do a steady 40+ mph fairly soon, there is no problem.
Been eons since I had a car that truly needed to warm up (back in the bad old carb days).
Yes, those days are mostly gone. The F-150, though, is still a relic, and if driving around town, a proper warmup is essential. If going on a place where I can do a steady 40+ mph fairly soon, there is no problem.
Originally Posted By: ecotourist
Originally Posted By: cronk
I look at it more from the safety factor. I like to at least get enough heat to make sure the defroster is working and I can clear the windshield.
It was -32f here last week, car started up fine with 0w40 but took 25 minutes before I got the windows thawed out so I could see safely.
Shouldn't take that long to clear your windshield. You may have a defective thermostat.
In very cold conditions (-20 F or so) it helps to put a piece of cardboard in front of the radiator to warm the engine faster, but you have to remove it once it's warmed up or you'll overheat - and that's not good.
There's a fine balance between sitting and idling (while consuming fuel and not warming up much) and driving (which warms things up pretty quickly) before you can see well.
Nope, thermostat is only a year old and holds perfect operating temp. It was -35F, even when the defroster started blowing lukewarm air after 5 minutes, it wouldn't start melting the ice off the windshield. Had to wait until the heat was good and warm before it really started melting off the ice.
I find sometimes it is better to run the engine for a bit with the heat or defrost on low, allows the engine to heat up faster, then crank up the heat.
Originally Posted By: cronk
I look at it more from the safety factor. I like to at least get enough heat to make sure the defroster is working and I can clear the windshield.
It was -32f here last week, car started up fine with 0w40 but took 25 minutes before I got the windows thawed out so I could see safely.
Shouldn't take that long to clear your windshield. You may have a defective thermostat.
In very cold conditions (-20 F or so) it helps to put a piece of cardboard in front of the radiator to warm the engine faster, but you have to remove it once it's warmed up or you'll overheat - and that's not good.
There's a fine balance between sitting and idling (while consuming fuel and not warming up much) and driving (which warms things up pretty quickly) before you can see well.
Nope, thermostat is only a year old and holds perfect operating temp. It was -35F, even when the defroster started blowing lukewarm air after 5 minutes, it wouldn't start melting the ice off the windshield. Had to wait until the heat was good and warm before it really started melting off the ice.
I find sometimes it is better to run the engine for a bit with the heat or defrost on low, allows the engine to heat up faster, then crank up the heat.
-12F this morning.
Just went out and started both cars, about twenty minutes before my wife will leave for work.
While I typically leave about half an hour after she does, I wanted to make sure that if I had only a 50% success rate, I'd be able to jump the bum car with the running one.
Both started just fine although both cranked slowly.
Just went out and started both cars, about twenty minutes before my wife will leave for work.
While I typically leave about half an hour after she does, I wanted to make sure that if I had only a 50% success rate, I'd be able to jump the bum car with the running one.
Both started just fine although both cranked slowly.
It was only -8F this morning, but the windshield had a little ice on it. A > 10 minute idle didn't melt it too much (but enough to clear for visibility) but that was way better than actually trying to scrape it off.
When it's sub-zero I'm always going to get it warm. I've spent enough time in walk-in freezers in my life, and I don't particularly like driving in them.
When it's sub-zero I'm always going to get it warm. I've spent enough time in walk-in freezers in my life, and I don't particularly like driving in them.
Warming the interior would be helpful. I let the car idle for 15 minutes last night in -15F temps . It only got up to 130F in that time. But as soon as you get in the car and start driving your breath will keep the windshield frosted. Takes about a half hour of highway driving to get rid of it. I'm thinking of getting a 1000w electric heater to put in the car as it idles to help the interior temp.
I used to do this with my car that sat outside.
I had a 1500W heater in the driver floor on a medium setting and hooked to a timer that could handle the high load.
I'd run the heater an hour and off an hour with the timer overnight. Car was probably 80-90 degrees inside. If it snowed or iced, no snow on windows, or even on the top of the passenger compartment. There might be some snow on the hood and a little less in the trunk as some of the heat made it there.
I'd unplug the heater, start the car and set off.
Originally Posted By: SHOZ
Warming the interior would be helpful. I let the car idle for 15 minutes last night in -15F temps . It only got up to 130F in that time. But as soon as you get in the car and start driving your breath will keep the windshield frosted. Takes about a half hour of highway driving to get rid of it. I'm thinking of getting a 1000w electric heater to put in the car as it idles to help the interior temp.
I had a 1500W heater in the driver floor on a medium setting and hooked to a timer that could handle the high load.
I'd run the heater an hour and off an hour with the timer overnight. Car was probably 80-90 degrees inside. If it snowed or iced, no snow on windows, or even on the top of the passenger compartment. There might be some snow on the hood and a little less in the trunk as some of the heat made it there.
I'd unplug the heater, start the car and set off.
Originally Posted By: SHOZ
Warming the interior would be helpful. I let the car idle for 15 minutes last night in -15F temps . It only got up to 130F in that time. But as soon as you get in the car and start driving your breath will keep the windshield frosted. Takes about a half hour of highway driving to get rid of it. I'm thinking of getting a 1000w electric heater to put in the car as it idles to help the interior temp.
I'd have to think that using a KWH or two to heat the car before leaving is cheaper than letting the engine idle of a half hour to get the same results. Better for the engine too.
I see WalMart has a 1500 watt Milk House heater for under $14.
I see WalMart has a 1500 watt Milk House heater for under $14.
Originally Posted By: Joenpb
A few good tips.
Best way to de-ice your car
A few, but mis-titled. It should be "best ways to prevent icing your vehicle. "Use your scraper" is hardly enough to justify the title.
A few good tips.
Best way to de-ice your car
A few, but mis-titled. It should be "best ways to prevent icing your vehicle. "Use your scraper" is hardly enough to justify the title.
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