Non-op vehicle

[Luftmasse]

So a friend of mine chose to put his vehicle as non-op and let the vehicle sit without paying for the yearly registration and insurance.

He already changed the oil on his vehicle. His question is should he start the vehicle once a month OR do no start it at all.

The vehicle is parked in the garage. Which of the following would be consider ideal and/or not cause harm to the engine?

His concern is idling the vehicle stationary may cause condensation to build up in the exhaust and cause to rust? Idling can cause fuel dilution and is bad for the valves?

The other is not starting the engine for a year, it may cause engine to become dry and cause rust?

 

[ctechbob]

How long does he plan on letting it sit?

 

[Luftmasse]

It is unknown. I'd say at least a year at minimum.

 

[ctechbob]

I'd leave it sit. I'd also be more worried about rodents.

Disconnect the battery and put it on a tender and wake the car up in a year.

 

[eljefino]

Rodents and moisture/ mold total more stored cars than oil problems.

 

[Lubener]

Idling it will do more harm than good but having it sit for a year is just as bad. A vehicle needs to be driven and if he doesn't wish to keep the registration current so he can drive it occassionally, he should sell it. He likely will be dealing with some issues with it after a year of sitting.

 

[Kurtatron]

I am diametrically opposed to the idea that letting a car sit is significantly damaging to a car. So many people say this, but I think they’re not backing up there ideas with studies and evidence.

Cold starting an engine is much worse than leaving it sit. What do most million mile non-semi truck vehicles have in common? Highway miles with less cold starts. Cold starts run rich fuel mixtures, run for a second or two without pressure, and are out of tolerance.

Especially if it is sitting in a garage? Please. Put some stabilizer in it, fill the tires to max pressure, change the oil, forget about it.

I’ve worked with a JDM engine that have sat for at least 15 years in a warehouse. Sure, seals leak and need replacing, but the compression values are all excellent. Metal only wears with use. Rust is not an issue with oil. So just let it sit.

https://www.researchgate.net/publication/233679351_Modern_heavy_duty_diesel_engine_cold_start_wear_study

Why bother improving cold start engine wear if it isn’t a problem?

 

[atikovi]

I try to start and run any car I have in long term storage for 30-60 seconds every three or four months. That helps prevent the fuel pump motor from seizing by cleaning off the armature, keeps hydraulic lifters from bleeding down completely and lets oil circulate to keep seals and gaskets lubricated and preventing them from drying out and leaking once you start driving it again. I've had cars sitting over 5 years that went back on the road just fine while doing this regimen, and I've had cars sitting just 2 years where I did nothing and it wouldn't start at all because the fuel pump was dead.

 

[repairman54]

As previously mentioned, fuel stabilizer, battery disconnected and on a maintainer. No running it to prevent exhaust system moisture buildup. Park it fully heated up with exhaust hot. Temp and humidity of storage garage will affect any mold creation. Car collections are in climate-controlled buildings.
Maybe one of those Damp Rid things in the interior to prevent mold? Others may know on that one.

 

[2010Civic]

If I was storing it for a year I'd probably start it up at the 6 month mark and drive it around the block a few times.

 

[ecotourist]

When I was looking for a TR-6 I found a low mileage one that had been stored for years (a decade probably) in a garage under a tarp.

It started and ran. That's the good news. The fuel was foul smelling. There was rust everywhere that the fenders met the body and there were lots of leaks. The brakes immediately failed. And fuel poured past the gasket connecting the fuel pump to the engine block.

Did I buy it - a "pristine" low miles TR-6 with original paint in an unusual colour? Nope. The owner wanted big bucks because it had been garage kept and had low miles. We pushed it back into the garage. It could have been restored to its former glory but with more effort than the asked price suggested.

All that to say, prolonged storage without starting is not without problems.

 

[KrisZ]

I presume he has other vehicles that are registered? Swap the plates and drive it for 15-20 minutes every few months around the neighborhood.
Otherwise I would leave it alone.

 

[SeaJay]

Put some fuel stabilizer in the tank and let it sit.

 

[Luftmasse]

He wants to know which would be much detrimental.
Not starting the vehicle for an entire year or idling in park every month?

 

[paulo57509]

He wants to know which would be much detrimental.
Not starting the vehicle for an entire year or idling in park every month?

IMO this, even with proper storage prep.

I have two vehicles that are non-op'ed (insurance maintained). If I feel the need to run them, I do it under the cover of darkness () and drive them ~10 miles.

Beware - a Tracy PD officer told me once, that the CHP is more inclined to impound more than city cops would.

 

[Luftmasse]

I am diametrically opposed to the idea that letting a car sit is significantly damaging to a car. So many people say this, but I think they’re not backing up there ideas with studies and evidence.

Cold starting an engine is much worse than leaving it sit. What do most million mile non-semi truck vehicles have in common? Highway miles with less cold starts. Cold starts run rich fuel mixtures, run for a second or two without pressure, and are out of tolerance.

Especially if it is sitting in a garage? Please. Put some stabilizer in it, fill the tires to max pressure, change the oil, forget about it.

I’ve worked with a JDM engine that have sat for at least 15 years in a warehouse. Sure, seals leak and need replacing, but the compression values are all excellent. Metal only wears with use. Rust is not an issue with oil. So just let it sit.

https://www.researchgate.net/publication/233679351_Modern_heavy_duty_diesel_engine_cold_start_wear_study

Why bother improving cold start engine wear if it isn’t a problem?

There was a video he saw on Youtube showing the insides of the cylinder walls was rusting. It had made him concern about it.

 

[andrew_j]

I think let him do what he thinks is best. There is no concrete evidence any aforementioned things actually help or hurt.

 

[paulo57509]

There was a video he saw on Youtube showing the insides of the cylinder walls was rusting. It had made him concern about it.

Pull the plugs and use a cylinder fogging spray?

 

[Nick1994]

I don't think it'll matter that much in the end.

Can he drive it around the block so when he parks it, the tires don't flat spot in the same spots?

 

[Fla]

There was a video he saw on Youtube showing the insides of the cylinder walls was rusting. It had made him concern about it.

If that's his concern tell him to take the spark plugs out and squirt about a tablespoon of oil into each cylinder and then turn the engine over a few revolutions to distribute the oil. Then put the plugs back in.

But FWIW I don't think it's necessary, there shouldn't be any air getting into the engine or into the cylinders while it's not running so there shouldn't be any moisture to form rust.

I had a 1955 MB and the owner's instructions included with it were very extensive, and included instructions on how to store the car for long periods. IIRC they didn't say anything about needing to do anything special to preserve the cylinders.

If possible I would run a dehumidifier in the garage and keep it as dry as possible. That will help preserve everything in the car.