The Perfect Severe Schedule Synthetic Oil : Super Tech ?

[ChrisD46]

With my 2017 GDI engine Sonata and driving pattern requiring me to follow a severe schedule OCI (3,750 mile OCI) - why am I bothering with synthetic 5W30 D1 / Gen 2 oils that cost 50% more ? *Would there be any difference running Super Tech Synthetic D1 / Gen 2 5W30 ($17) against synthetic offerings from Mobil 1 , Pennzoil Platinum or Valvoline Advanced ($26) over the course of a 3,750 mile severe service schedule ? ... If I wanted to splurge , there is QSUD for $19 . Even if Warren oil company (Super Tech) has to qualify their 5W30 to BARELY meet D1 / Gen 2 specification requirements - would that oil not be good for at least a 3,750 mile severe service OCI ?

That Supertech oil I pass by every time I need a new oil change my have always been ideal for my severe schedule GDI engine needs ... If I was concerned with cleaning ability versus more expensive synthetic oils I mentioned - then I could add 5 oz. of Seafoam to the oil and run it for 100 miles before the next oil change to clean up the engine (debatable if even needed with Supertech Synthetic oil in the crankcase for only a 3,750 mile OCI) ... Your thoughts on above ?

 

[CT8]

With a 3750 mile oil change intervals why would a syn oil be needed...

 

[Danno]

Originally Posted by CT8
With a 3750 mile oil change intervals why would a syn oil be needed...

This, especially in a mild Georgia climate.
PYB would be a good choice.

 

[CharBaby]

Now you're catching on!

However, this is why we frequent BITOG. So we can learn these things and make decision for ourselves based on our own driving style, climate, usage etc...or warranty requirements.

I mean, definitely use the oil(dino or syn) that your engine requires. If you can use dino, any dino with get you 5K-6K OCIs even after warranty, However, the 3750 mile OCI requirement maybe due to the GDI.

 

[diyjake]

I would just run Super Tech synthetic, I honestly don't see the point of using conventional oil when it is only a few dollars cheaper than ST synthetic.

 

[Virtus_Probi]

If you're budget minded, you can buy some of the "name brand" oils on rebate and get them cheaper per quart than the ST.
I would have no issue with running ST 5W30 synth, it's just that I can get M1 or PP even cheaper.

 

[passgas55]

Buy the Havoline 6 qt box from Walmart. Looks like the semi is a good deal. If not stick with the syn Supertech.
Car still in warranty? Follow the grade/specs called in manual. If not 10/30 for me in Georgia.

 

[CharBaby]

Absolutely. Alway look for sales, rebates, closeouts on better known brands. But for just the everydayness when there's nothing on sale and you need oil, use whatever is the least expensive.

 

[Sayjac]

Quote
…. However, the 3750 mile OCI requirement maybe due to the GDI.
Possible I suppose, though the cynic in me says it's more about that Hyun/Kia warranty, especially so since most any type driving is considered OM "severe" service.

As for topic, if the goal is strictly observing the 3750 oci AND using synthetic oil, the least expensive one that meets specs would be what I'd choose. Right now everyday price ST Syn seems to fill the bill.

 

[Serge]

I change oil on 11 cars including mine and some of my family because it takes 10 min with a lift. This is what i do with Supertech synthetic and all other cheapo synthetics. Never have issues. Dont care if its gdi or not unless it has turbo then shorten oci.

Short trip 5,000 oci.
Medium trips 7,500 oci.
Long trips 10,000 oci.

I bet there is over 1,500,000 miles logged on my oil changes with ST and cheapo synthetics. No issues. Walmart cashiers look at me weird when i pull in with a cart of 15 jugs of ST. I literally clear the shelf every time im there haha.

Use ST, sleep well. Its good stuff. No reason to overpay for hyped up oils.

 

[Virtus_Probi]

Originally Posted by Char Baby
Absolutely. Alway look for sales, rebates, closeouts on better known brands. But for just the everydayness when there's nothing on sale and you need oil, use whatever is the least expensive.

I have definitely been stuck buying oil with no rebates that I knew of available, but I think the XOM rebates are fairly predictable. I bought M1 0W20 for my daughter and 0W30 for me a bit early last year when I knew the rebate was in effect and just let them sit in the garage for a few months until it was a better time to do the changes.
Have never had a rebate not get processed correctly, but even the completely online redemption is a bit of a PITA and I see why some folks just don't want to bother with them. I always gave the checks to my daughter as a bit of pocket money and to get her used to dealing with the bank.

 

[y_p_w]

Originally Posted by diyjake
I would just run Super Tech synthetic, I honestly don't see the point of using conventional oil when it is only a few dollars cheaper than ST synthetic.

At WM most of the "brand name conventional" costs more. At least in my area the only oil that's cheaper is ST conventional or Chevron Supreme. Mobil Super used to be, but I don't see it any more and WM's online price is around $20.

 

[CharBaby]

Originally Posted by Virtus_Probi
Originally Posted by Char Baby
Absolutely. Alway look for sales, rebates, closeouts on better known brands. But for just the everydayness when there's nothing on sale and you need oil, use whatever is the least expensive.

I have definitely been stuck buying oil with no rebates that I knew of available, but I think the XOM rebates are fairly predictable. I bought M1 0W20 for my daughter and 0W30 for me a bit early last year when I knew the rebate was in effect and just let them sit in the garage for a few months until it was a better time to do the changes.
Have never had a rebate not get processed correctly, but even the completely online redemption is a bit of a PITA and I see why some folks just don't want to bother with them. I always gave the checks to my daughter as a bit of pocket money and to get her used to dealing with the bank.


I understand!

 

[avi1777]

Originally Posted by CT8
With a 3750 mile oil change intervals why would a syn oil be needed...

but correct me if im wrong,syn oil is better in everything,preventing deposits among others.
syn is not not only for long oci or am i wrong?
tnx

 

[y_p_w]

Originally Posted by avi1777
Originally Posted by CT8
With a 3750 mile oil change intervals why would a syn oil be needed...

but correct me if im wrong,syn oil is better in everything,preventing deposits among others.
syn is not not only for long oci or am i wrong?
tnx

Not necessarily if you're changing it as often as you plan to do. Deposit control is more about detergents in the oil A lot of of people have seen completely clean engines with the most basic motor oils changed at a severe schedule.

Now if you're referring to an engine with a turbo/supercharger or maybe something with a high redline (think a Honda DOHC VTEC) then I could see that.

 

[ARCOgraphite]

I dont understand the sub 4K OCI. What in the OP's driving pattern would warrant this severe schedule - other than frequent very short trips.

Use an oil the car likes. I wouldnt cheap out. Who cares 17 bucks a change or 24 bucks a change. Youll never miss that 7 bucks over 3 months. Never.

Valvoline Advanced or Castrol Edge Professional. or Edge Gold Bottle. Third runner up Quaker State UD.

 

[csandste]

There was something on here about a week ago that Hyundai states that most cars can go with regular, not severe change cycle.

Frankly, given the GDI stresses, I've pretty well decided on a 5K conventional (really, they're all semi-syn) or 6K (mile) OCI for synthetic.

If I wasn't ancient and lived in a place that allowed me to change my own without angered the subdivision gods, I'd be going with ST or Harvest King syn 5-30 and be done with it. Maybe the high mileage version of ST if it was almost the same price.

I think 3750 is a bit much-- conventional or syn, unless you really are severe-- and most aren't.

 

[Triple_Se7en]

Originally Posted by ARCOgraphite
I dont understand the sub 4K OCI. What in the OP's driving pattern would warrant this severe schedule - other than frequent very short trips.



There are a nunber of outlines on what comprises severe driving. If only one exists and a issue occurs, the dealer could refuse warranty work.
Did you know that road salt used in your state would qualify you as a severe driver with Kia and Hyundai. There are numerous other reasons too.
If the dealer wanted to nit-pick, almost 3/4s of drivers in the USA are labeled severe use drivers.

 

[Nickdfresh]

Originally Posted by Triple_Se7en

There are a nunber of outlines on what comprises severe driving. If only one exists and a issue occurs, the dealer could refuse warranty work.
Did you know that road salt used in your state would qualify you as a severe driver with Kia and Hyundai. There are numerous other reasons too.
If the dealer wanted to nit-pick, almost 3/4s of drivers in the USA are labeled severe use drivers.



Yeah right, good luck to them in court then. "You have to change oil more frequently due to salt?" Lawyer laughs...

 

[dave1251]

At everyday price this is likely the easiest and most cost effective brand you can buy. There is no reason not to go this route when it saves you money.